Wikipedia - User contributions [en]

Durumagi

2023-04-02T00:19:02Z

182.225.106.69: Restored revision 1147475871

{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2022}}
{{Short description|A Korean overcoat with no back or side vents}}
{{Infobox Korean name
|img=
|imgwidth=
|caption= [[Joseon Dynasty]] man in ''durumagi''
|hangul=두루마기|루마기· 주막의· 주차의· 주의
|hanja=周莫衣· 周遮衣· 周衣
|rr=Durumagi / Jumagui / Juchaui / Juui
|mr=Turumagi / Chumagi / Chuch'ai / Chui
|title=Durumagi}}
'''{{Transliteration|ko|Durumagi}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=closed all around}}), also '''{{Transliteration|ko|jumagui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주막의|hanja=周莫衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juchaui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주차의|hanja=周遮衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주의|hanja=周衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}),<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=두루마기 |trans-title=Durumagi |url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1084903&categoryId=32079 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220321172804/https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?docId=1084903&cid=40942&categoryId=32079 |archive-date=21 March 2022 |access-date=21 March 2022 |website=Doosan Encyclopedia |language=ko}}</ref> is a variety of {{Transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}, or [[overcoat]], in {{Transliteration|ko|[[hanbok]]}}, the Korean traditional [[Clothing|garment]]. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over {{Transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (jacket) and {{Transliteration|ko|[[Baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants).<ref name=":9">{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=9788928902873 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}</ref>{{Rp|page=120}}

==History==
The origin of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} traces back to at least the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times.<ref>[http://www.grandculture.net/ko/Contents?dataType=99&contents_id=GC02002237 "두루마기-한국향토문화전자대"], The Digital Local Culture Encyclopedia of Korea</ref><ref>[https://namu.wiki/w/%EB%91%90%EB%A3%A8%EB%A7%88%EA%B8%B0 "두루마기-나무위키"], Namuwiki</ref><ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wang |first1=Bo|title=唐会要新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla |date=961 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%94%90%E6%9C%83%E8%A6%81/%E5%8D%B7095 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wei |first1=Shou |title=魏书百济 Book of Wei – Baekje |date=551–554 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/zh/%E9%AD%8F%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7100 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Wang |first1=Qinruo |title=冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975 |date=1013 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=69385|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>Korean historical academia considers that the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period.<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=두루마기 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0016977 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}}</ref>

The tomb murals from [[Goguryeo]] were primarily painted in two regions, [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]], which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.<ref name=":0222">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26 |quote=Goguryeo tomb murals were primarily painted in Jian集安 and Pyeongyang,平壤 the second and third capitals of the kingdom from the middle of the fourth century until the middle of the seventh, respectively. [...] They also display slightly different characteristics by region. For example, the morals and customs of Goguryeo are featured in murals found in Jian, while those in Pyeongyang show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty 202 BC-AD 220 in China, which governed the region for about four hundred years. This explains why we can see figures in Chinese-style dress in the latter.}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically the cultural influence of the [[Four Commanderies of Han|Han dynasty]], including figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.<ref name=":0222" />{{Rp|page=15}}
Yet Chinese-style clothes were limited to the Royal and Aristocratic attires, and It is considered that They wore Korean-style attires in normal times.<ref>[http://contents.history.go.kr/front/nh/view.do?levelId=nh_008_0070_0010 "의식주 생활-우라역사넷"], History Net of National Institute of Korean History</ref>

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:<ref>{{Cite web |title=두루마기 - 미주 한국일보 |url=http://m.koreatimes.com/article/20021209/104410 |access-date=2022-07-10 |website=m.koreatimes.com}}</ref>{{Text_and_translation
|한국 민족의 고유복식은 저고리와 바지, 두루마기로 돼 있다. 이런 복식은 북방 호복(胡服)계열로 바지를 착용했다는 것은 기마민족(騎馬民族)이었음을 의미한다는 것이다.
|The Korean people's indigenous attire consists of a [[jeogori]], [[baji (clothing)|baji]], and durumagi. The fact that [Korean] wore trousers in the northern [[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]] family means that [Korean] were a horse-riding people.
|
}}Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} ({{Lang-zh|c=龕神塚|labels=no}}), the ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by the owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb was red (or purple) in colour:<ref name=":2">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=16}}
{{Blockquote
|text=[The tomb of owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
|author=
}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=16}} The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.<ref name="durumagi nate">{{in lang|ko}} [http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45 Durumagi] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610003154/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45|date=10 June 2011}} at [[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] Encyclopedia</ref>

=== Goryeo ===
During the [[Goryeo]] period, Mongolian influences caused the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' to change in appearance.<ref name="durumagi nate" /> Not only was the waist belt changed into a {{Transliteration|ko|[[Hanbok#Jeogori|goreum]]}}, the traditional ''{{Transliteration|ko|po}}'''s short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, {{Transliteration|mn|xurumakci}}, of which the name ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' is said to be derived.<ref name="durumagi mongol">Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), ''Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁)'', 1999, p.58 [http://www.hangilsa.co.kr/main/main.php Hangilsa], Paju. {{ISBN|89-356-5146-X}}</ref>

=== Joseon period ===
During the [[Goryeo]]-era, a unique type of armor, called Durumagi ({{Hangul|두루마기}}, {{Hanja|逢掖}}) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref> They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a ''hohaeg'' (({{Hangul|호액}})({{Hanja|護項}})) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.<ref name=gap>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref>

== Construction and design ==
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is an overcoat, which is closed all around,<ref name=":1" /> lacking side and back vents.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}} It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}}

Different fabrics and materials are used in making ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'': [[calico]], wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; [[ramie]], fine [[ramie]] and silk [[gauze]] for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.<ref name=":1" /> White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.<ref name="modern durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://biz.heraldm.com/common/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100208000607 New ''hanbok''], Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010</ref>

== Types of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} ==
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok-Joseon period-02.jpg|thumb|Blue {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by female model, white {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by male model]]
[[File:A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.jpg|thumb|100px|left|A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.]]
There are various types of which include: {{Transliteration|ko|hotedan durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=홑단 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=single-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|gyup durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=겹 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=double-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|som durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=솜 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=cotton durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|[[kkachi durumagi]]}} ({{Korean|hangul=까치 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=magpie durumagi}}) or {{Transliteration|ko|obangjang durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=오방장 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=five-colours durumagi}}) for children.<ref name="kkachi durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://culturedic.daum.net/dictionary_content.asp?Dictionary_Id=10019235&mode=content&query=%C1%B6%BC%B1%BD%C3%B4%EB+%B3%B2%BE%C6%C0%C7+%C0%C7%BA%B9+2+%2D+%BF%C0%B9%E6%C0%E5%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&dircode=0 ''Obangjang durumagi''] from [[Daum Communications]] and Korea Culture & Content Agency</ref>

During the [[Goryeo]]-era, a unique type of armor, called [[Durumagi]] ({{Hangul|두루마기}}, {{Hanja|逢掖}}) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref> They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a ''hohaeg'' (({{Hangul|호액}})({{Hanja|護項}})) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.<ref name=gap>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref>

{{Clear}}

== Modern use ==
[[File:APEC2005 Hanbok.jpg|thumb|2005 APEC World leaders in colourful {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}|left|164x164px]]
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://bntnews.hankyung.com/apps/news?popup=0&nid=02&c1=02&c2=02&c3=00&nkey=201002112200543&mode=sub_view ''Durumagi'' a must], bnt news 14 February 2010</ref> but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 [[Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation|APEC]] Summit in [[Busan]].<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://www.cbs.co.kr/Nocut/Show.asp?IDX=111007 Leaders in ''durumagi''], Nocut News 25 November 2005</ref>

{{Clear}}

==See also==
*[[Dopo (clothing)|Dopo]]
*[[Dragon robe|Gonryongpo]]
*[[Hanbok]]
*[[Jeonbok]]
*[[Kkachi durumagi]]
*[[Po (clothing)|Po]]
*[[Sagyusam]]

==References==
{{reflist}}
*{{cite news|url=http://koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/news/article/article.aspx?aid=2875224 |title=Clothing with stories of fertility and faith |publisher=[[JoongAng Daily]] |date=7 May 2007 |author=Lee Ho-jeong}}

==External links==
* [https://www.museum.go.kr/site/eng/relic/represent/view?relicId=2587 Owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb wearing a purple (or red) {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}] from the National Museum of Korea
* [http://www.heritage.go.kr Korea National Heritage online] from the Cultural Heritage Administration
* {{in lang|ko}} [https://web.archive.org/web/20091226031829/http://user.chollian.net/~kjg0520/frame1.htm Hanbok Story]

{{Commons}}

[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Jackets]]

Geomungo

2023-04-02T00:11:06Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147709555 by John Yunshire (talk)

{{More citations needed|date=April 2021}}
{{Infobox Korean name
|img=Hyewon-Tanhyeon.jpg
|hangul={{linktext|거|문|고|}} or {{linktext|현|금|}}
|hanja=(none) or [[wiktionary:玄|玄]][[wiktionary:琴|琴]] 
|rr=geomun(-)go or hyeon(-)geum
|mr=kŏmun'go or hyŏn'gŭm
}}

The '''geomungo''' (also spelled '''''komungo''''' or '''''kŏmun'go''''') or '''''hyeongeum''''' (literally "black zither", also spelled '''''hyongum''''' or '''''hyŏn'gŭm''''') is a traditional [[Korean culture|Korean]] plucked [[zither]] with both bridges and [[fret]]s. ''Geomungo'' is a representative [[String instrument|stringed instrument]] made in [[Goguryeo]] before the 5th century.<ref>{{Cite web|title=거문고 - 한국민족문화대백과사전|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/SearchNavi?keyword=%EA%B1%B0%EB%AC%B8%EA%B3%A0&ridx=1&tot=107|access-date=2021-05-10|website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref> Scholars believe that the name refers to [[Goguryeo]] and translates to "Goguryeo zither" or that it refers to the [[colour]] and translates to "black crane zither" (''hyeonhakgeum'', [[wikt:현학금|현학금]] / [[wikt:玄鶴琴|玄鶴琴]]).

The geomungo's place in Korean culture is traditionally that of a scholars' instrument for self-cultivation, much like ancient Chinese had done with the [[guqin]] in [[China]].<ref>{{Cite web|date=2018-07-30|title=Geomungo|url=https://magazineterra.com/korean-instrument-geomungo/|url-status=live|access-date=2019-09-28|website=[[TeRra Magazine]]|language=en-US}}</ref> However, the Koreans never adopted the guqin as a folk instrument but instead inherited the Confucian and literati guqin lore wholesale and applied it onto their own geomungo lore.

==History==
[[Image:Geomungo 11 string.jpg|left|thumbnail|An 11-stringed modern ''geomungo'']]
The ''geomungo'' originated circa the 4th century (see [[Anak Tomb No.3]] infra) through the 7th century from the kingdom of Goguryeo, the northernmost of the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], although the instrument can be traced back to the 4th century.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |url=https://www.culturecontent.com/content/contentView.do?search_div=CP_THE&search_div_id=CP_THE008&cp_code=cp0225&index_id=cp02250023&content_id=cp022500230001&print=Y |title=거문고 - 문화콘텐츠닷컴 |access-date=2018-04-14 |archive-date=2018-04-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180414233843/https://www.culturecontent.com/content/contentView.do?search_div=CP_THE&search_div_id=CP_THE008&cp_code=cp0225&index_id=cp02250023&content_id=cp022500230001&print=Y |url-status=dead }}</ref>

According to the ''[[Samguk Sagi]]'' (Chronicles of the Three Kingdoms), written in 1145, the ''geomungo'' was invented in the 6th century by prime minister [[Wang San-ak]] by remodeling the form of the ancient Chinese instrument ''[[guqin]]'' (''gogeum'', also called ''chilhyeongeum'', literally "seven-string zither"). After his death, the instrument was passed down to Ok Bogo, Son Myeong-deuk, Gwi Geum, An Jang, Cheong Jang, and Geuk Jong, while being widely spread over the kingdom. However, [[National Gugak Center]] of Korea raises the possibility that the geomungo originated from a traditional musical instrument of Goguryeo before Guqin was introduced.<ref>{{Cite web|title=국악사전|url=https://gugak.go.kr/ency|access-date=2023-03-30|website=gugak.go.kr|language=ko}}</ref>

Archetype of the instrument is painted in [[Goguryeo]] tombs. They are found in the tomb of Muyongchong and [[Anak Tomb No.3]].<ref name=":0" />

==Construction==
The ''geomungo'' is approximately 162 cm long and 23 cm wide (63.75 inches long, 9 inches wide), and has movable bridges called ''anjok'' (雁足 "goose feet") and 16 frets called ''gwae'' (棵; numbered 1 to 16 from left to right). It has a hollow body where the front plate of the instrument is made of [[paulownia]] wood and the back plate is made of hard [[chestnut]] wood. Its six strings, which are made of twisted [[silk]] passed through its back plate. The pick is made from bamboo sticks in the size of regular household pencil. Near the bridge is a leather-covered section called ''daemo'' to protect the surface from the striking of the ''suldae'' stick.

The six strings are named (from closest one to the player outward) ''munhyeon'' (文弦 "civil string"), ''yuhyeon'' (遊弦 "roaming string"), ''daehyeon'' (大弦 "big string"), ''gwaesangcheong'' (棵上清 "clarity upon the frets"), ''gwaehacheong'' (棵下清 "clarity below the frets"), and ''muhyeon'' (武弦 "martial string"), and are numbered 1 to 6 respectively in notation (or 文、方、大、上、中、下 in tablature form). Strings 2-4 go over fret 1 and are positioned over the frets whilst 1, 5 and 6 are supported by the ''anjok'' bridges. Strings 2 and 3 are used to play stopped notes and the rest are played open or as drones (even string 4 which is above the frets, though it is sometimes played stopped in some pieces). The thickness of the strings are not sequential: usually the thickest string is the ''daehyeon'', followed by the ''munhyeon'' and ''muhyeon''. The ''yuhyeo'' is usually the thinnest string followed by the ''gwaesangcheong'' and ''gwaehacheong'', though some have the ''gwaesangcheong'' as the thinnest followed by the ''yuhyeon''.

Modernized geomungo increases the strings to 11, which are made of nylon. As with the traditional version, three strings are over the frets and the others are all open. But the traditional version of the geomungo has 6 strings, with three over the frets.

Recently, the 6-string Geomungo has been modified quite a lot, with the appearance of electronic geomungo (전자 거문고). Geomungo playing with Hwaldae bow (활대 거문고) (same as playing [[ajaeng]]),<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djTsMkVDp_c|title='첼로 거문고?'...국악기는 변신 중|access-date=21 April 2021|publisher=[[YouTube]]}}{{cbignore}}{{Dead Youtube links|date=February 2022}}</ref> or the type of geomungo having more strings, collected; attracted the attention of young artists.

In the development of culture, besides the conservation artists, inheriting the cultural tradition of the nation, there are artists who change and modernize the traditional culture of the nation.

==Playing method==
The ''geomungo'' is generally played while seated on the floor. The strings are plucked with a short [[bamboo]] stick called {{lang|la|suldae}} (술대/匙), which is held between the index and middle fingers of the right hand, while the left-hand presses on the strings (mostly 2 and 3) by either pulling or pushing to produce various [[Pitch (music)|pitches]] using the thumb and first four fingers. The left-hand ring-finger usually wears a leather thimble (called ''golmu'') to act as support as the strings are high above the frets and are difficult to press down firmly on the frets. The player can use the stick to strike the ''daemo'' leather protector during plucks to create percussive effects.

The most typical [[Musical tuning|tuning]] of the open strings for the playing of traditional Korean court music is (from string closest to the player outwards) Eb, Ab, Db, Bb, Bb, and Bb an [[octave]] lower than the central tone. For sanjo and folk music, the Eb string is raised to F (plus all the strings might be raised a major 2nd up). The instrument is played in traditional Korean court music and the folk styles of [[Sanjo (music)|sanjo]] and [[sinawi]].<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.gugak.go.kr/site/homepage/menu/viewMenu?menuid=001003001001001010004 |title=유동적인 연주방법 | 국악기의 특징 | 개요 | 국악이론 | 교육연구 | 국립국악원 |access-date=2018-04-14 |archive-date=2018-04-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180414172508/http://www.gugak.go.kr/site/homepage/menu/viewMenu?menuid=001003001001001010004 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

Due to its characteristically percussive sound and vigorous playing technique it is thought of as a more "masculine" instrument than the 12-string or 24 string [[gayageum]] (another Korean zither); both instruments, however, are played by both male and female performers.

The geomungo has a large range of playable songs and also has a large range of tunes.

The geomungo historically had a notation tablature system similar to that of the [[guqin]] Chinese seven-stringed zither ''jianzipu'' system, but this has been superseded by modern [[staff notation]].

The Korean-born, U.S. resident ''geomungo'' performer and composer [[Jin Hi Kim]] plays a custom-made electric ''geomungo'' in addition to the regular instrument.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mediateletipos.net/wp-content/images/2006/06/electric_260x437.jpg|title=Photographic image|format=JPG|website=Mediateletipos.net|access-date=21 April 2021}}</ref>

==See also==
*[[Korean music]]
*[[Traditional Korean musical instruments]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
{{Commons|Geomungo}}
*[http://www.koreasociety.org/dmdocuments/2008-11-05-reinventing.mp3 Korea Society Podcast: Reinventing Traditional Korean Music - Geomungo Performance]

{{Zithers}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Goguryeo]]
[[Category:Korean musical instruments]]
[[Category:Zithers]]
[[Category:Important Intangible Cultural Properties of South Korea]]

Hanbok

2023-04-02T00:10:16Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147709538 by John Yunshire (talk)

{{Short description|Traditional Korean clothing}}
{{distinguish|Hanfu}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}}
{{Italic title}}{{Infobox clothing type|title=Hanbok|material=Diverse|location=Present-day [[North Korea]], [[South Korea]], [[Manchuria]]|image_file=[[File:Hanbok (female and male).jpg|Hanbok (female and male)|150px]]|caption=Typical designs of hanbok, traditional Korean dress|introduced=At least since [[Goguryeo]] period}}{{Infobox transliteration
| skhangul = {{linktext|한복}}
| skhanja = {{linktext|韓服}}
| skrr = Hanbok
| skmr = Hanbok
| nkhangul = {{linktext|조선옷}}
| nkhanja = {{linktext|朝鮮}}옷
| nkrr = Joseon-ot
| nkmr = Chosŏn-ot
| ibox-order =
| c =
| altname =
| l = Korean (ethnic) clothing
}}
The '''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=한복|hanja=韓服|rr=hanbok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=[[Koreans|Korean]] clothing}}; term used in [[South Korean standard language|South Korea]]), also called '''{{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮服|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) is traditional Korean clothing. It is worn not only by South and [[North Korea]], but also by the [[Koreans in China|joseon-jok]] (Korean-Chinese), a minority group in [[China]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zang |first=Yingchun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/57675221 |title=Zhongguo shao shu min zu fu shi |last2= |date=2007 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |others=臧迎春. |isbn=978-7-5085-0379-0 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |oclc=57675221}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title={{!}} Minority Ethnic Clothing : Korean (Chaoxianzu) Clothing |url=http://baoku.gmu.edu/exhibits/show/minority-ethnic-clothing/korean-clothing |access-date=2022-08-23 |website=baoku.gmu.edu}}</ref> The term {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} literally means “Korean clothing.”<ref>Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea</ref> Hanbok is also depicted in detail on murals from the [[Goguryeo]] period in Korea.<ref>The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> Due to the isolation from each other for about 50 years, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in [[South Korea]], North Korea, and joseonjok, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}<ref name=":24" /> Since the 1990s, the South Korean-style and the North Korean-style have been looking more and more similar to each other.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=In-Woo |date=2006 |title=Change in Hanbok of South and North Korea after the Division and the Interexchange -Focusing on Women's Jeogori- |url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200612842609717.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles |volume=30 |issue=1 |pages=106–114 |issn=1225-1151}}</ref> Similarly, since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in joseonjok-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the joseonjok-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South-Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

Earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the [[Yemaek|Proto-Koreanic people]] of what is now [[Geography of North Korea|northern Korea]] and [[Manchuria]]; it can also be found in the arts of the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals of the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD,<ref>The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> where the basic structure of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was established at least since this period. The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consisted of a {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top), {{transliteration|ko|[[baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants), {{transliteration|ko|[[Chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt), and the ''{{transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}'' (coat). The basic structure of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of [[Korean shamanism|Mu-ism]].<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500|title=Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique|date=2021|publisher=Springer|others=Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek|isbn=978-3-030-32865-8|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=125|oclc=1253353500}}</ref> These basic structural features of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} remains relatively unchanged to this day. However, present-day {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, which is worn nowadays, is patterned after the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} worn in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]],<ref name=":16" /> especially those worn by the nobility and royalty.<ref name=":7">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927 |title=Passport to Korean culture. |date=2009 |publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-153-2 |edition=2009 |location=Seoul, Korea |oclc=680802927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last=Gwak |first=Sung Youn Sonya |title=Be(com)ing Korean in the United States: Exploring Ethnic Identity Formation Through Cultural Practices |publisher=[[Cambria Press]] |year=2006 |isbn=9781621969723}}</ref> In the past, however, commoners ({{transliteration|ko|seomin}}), were not allowed to wear what is now known as {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} and instead wore {{transliteration|ko|[[minbok]]}} (clothing of commoners) which was typically white or off-white in colours; the commoners were only allowed to wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} on their wedding day and on special occasions.<ref name=":7" />{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8" /><ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Lopez Velazquez |first=Laura |date=2021 |title=Hanbok during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasty |url=https://www.korea.net/TalkTalkKorea/Korean/community/community/CMN0000009345 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=www.korea.net}}</ref> The extensive use of white clothing among the commoners lead to Korea being referred as "dressed people of white".<ref name=":10" /> Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean [[Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism]] established "{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} Day" to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=쿠키뉴스 |date=2014-09-15 |title=한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다 |url=http://www.kukinews.com/newsView/kuk201409150150 |access-date=2022-03-11 |website=쿠키뉴스 |language=ko}}</ref>

== Etymology ==
The first recorded evidence of the name ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' is from an 1881 document {{transliteration|ko|Jeongchiilgi}}《{{Korean|hangul=정치일기|labels=no}}》.<ref name=":52">역사 속의 우리 옷 변천사, 2009, Chonnam National University Press</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=김여경|date=2010|title=2000년 이후 인쇄매체에 나타난 한복의 조형미 연구|url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=DIKO0011925322|access-date=2021-07-24|website=ScienceON|language=KO}}</ref> In the document, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese traditional clothing and Western clothing. ''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' was used in an 1895 document describing the assassination of [[Empress Myeongseong]] to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese clothing. The origin of the name remains unclear, because these documents predate the [[Korean Empire]] ({{Korean|hangul=대한제국}}) which popularized the [[hanja]] character {{transliteration|ko|Han}} ({{Hanja|韓}})''.''

Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character ''{{transliteration|ko|Han}}'' ({{Hanja|韓}}) in words that describe Korean clothing, such as {{Transliteration|ko|hanguguibok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국의복}}), {{Transliteration|ko|hangugyebok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국예복}}) and {{Transliteration|ko|daehannyeobok}} ({{Korean|hangul=대한녀복}}). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article, which described the [[righteous army]] wearing Korean clothing. After the [[March 1st Movement]], ''hanbok'' became a significant ethnic symbol of Koreans.

Influenced by rising nationalism in the 1900s, ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' became a word that meant the unique Korean clothing that can be distinguished from that of foreigners, such as Japanese, Western, and Chinese clothing. Other words with the same meaning, {{Transliteration|ko|uriot}} ({{Korean|hangul=우리옷}}) and {{Transliteration|ko|joseonot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷}}), were concurrently used. {{Transliteration|ko|Joseonot}}, which was more popular in the north, replaced the other words in North Korea after the [[division of Korea]].

==Construction and design==
[[File:Hanbok scheme.svg|thumb|{{ubl|A diagram of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'s anatomy|1. {{transliteration|ko|hwajang}}|2. {{transliteration|ko|godae}}|3. {{transliteration|ko|somae buri}}|4. {{transliteration|ko|somae}}|5. {{transliteration|ko|goreum}}|6. {{transliteration|ko|u}}|7. {{transliteration|ko|doryeon}}|8, 11. {{transliteration|ko|jindong}}|9. {{transliteration|ko|gil}}|10. {{transliteration|ko|baerae}}|12. {{transliteration|ko|git}}|13. {{transliteration|ko|dongjeong}}}}]]

Traditionally, women's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of the {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top) and the {{transliteration|ko|[[chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt). The ensemble is often known as {{transliteration|ko|'[[chima jeogori]]'}}. Men's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and loose fitting {{transliteration|ko|baji}} (trousers).<ref name="KBS">{{cite web |url=http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |title=Traditional clothing |publisher=[[KBS (Korea)|KBS Global]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080317124313/http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |archive-date=2008-03-17 }}</ref> On top of this ensemble, there are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats. For men, some examples are {{transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}}, {{transliteration|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}}, Danryeong-ui, Joong-chimak, Sochang-ui, Daechang-ui, etc. For women, there are Jang-sam, Dan-sam, [[Wonsam|Won-sam]], and more.

==={{transliteration|ko|Jeogori}}===
The {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is the basic upper garment of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.<ref name="Doosan">{{cite web |url=http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090315034024/http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |archive-date=2009-03-15 }}</ref><ref name="HanbokBritannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=183581&v=47 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko}}</ref> The basic form of a {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} consists of ''gil'', ''git'', ''dongjeong'', ''goreum'' and sleeves. ''Gil'' ([[Hangul]]: 길) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and ''git'' ([[Hangul]]: 깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. ''Dongjeong'' ([[Hangul]]: 동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the ''git'' and is generally squared off. The ''goreum'' ([[Hangul]]: 고름) are fabric-strings that tie the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name="KBS" /> Women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} may have ''kkeutdong'' ([[Hangul]]: 끝동), a different colored [[cuff]] placed at the end of the sleeves. There are two {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} artifacts that may be the earliest surviving archaeological artifact. One from a [[Yangcheon Heo clan]] tomb is dated 1400–1450,<ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand">{{cite web |url=http://www.jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224210339/https://jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |url-status=dead |archive-date=24 February 2021 |title=Jeogori Before 1910 |publisher=Gwangju Design Biennale |access-date=2009-06-27 }}</ref> while the other was discovered inside a statue of the Buddha at Sangwonsa Temple (presumably left as an offering) that has been dated to the 1460s.<ref name="Important Folklore Materials 219">{{cite web |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |title=Sejodaeuihoejangjeogori |publisher=Cultural Heritage Administration, South Korea |access-date=2009-06-27 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120216190456/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-16 }}</ref>
[[File:Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg|thumb|Jeogori and chima]]

The form of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} has changed over time.<ref name="Britannica" /> While men's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} remained relatively unchanged, women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} became dramatically shortened during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty, reaching its shortest length at the late 19th century. However, due to reformation efforts and practical reasons, late modern ''jeogori'' for women was longer than its earlier counterpart with its length still above the waistline There are various styles and types of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand" /> Contemporary {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} are presently designed with various lengths.

The early form of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is hypothesized to have originated or have been influenced by {{transliteration|ko|[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]}}, nomadic dress typically worn by northern nomadic people in Asia.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=김문자 |date=2004 |title=[논문]고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치 |trans-title=A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of te Hanbok on the Globalism |url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=NART56146983 |journal=韓服文化 = Journal of Korean Traditional Constume |language=KO |volume=7 |issue=1 |pages=7–15 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref>{{NoteTag|Hobok (pronounced Hufu in Chinese) was a term which referred to non-Chinese clothing in opposition to [[Hanfu]]; by definition, it does not only apply to nomadic clothing.}} Hobok characteristics of the ancient ''jeogori'' include: the closure on the front<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계2">{{cite journal |title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |volume=20(1) |pages=61–77 |doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61 |doi-access=free}}</ref> closing to the left side in Jwa-im (左袵, 좌임), narrow sleeves, and both men and women wearing trousers, even under chima.<ref name=":23">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=National Institute of Korean History}}</ref> There is also Hanbok that was influenced by a more tropical style in Southern parts of the Korean Peninsula which lacked trousers and had a one-piece style.<ref>{{Cite web |title=주호국 - 나무위키 |url=https://namu.wiki/w/%EC%A3%BC%ED%98%B8%EA%B5%AD |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=namu.wiki}}</ref>

Most modern {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is closed to the right which is a fashion trend from what is now mainland [[Ru (upper garment)|China.]] The closure of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} to the right is an imitation of [[Ru (upper garment)|Han Chinese jackets]],<ref name=":73">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/700141350 |title=Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011 |date=2010 |publisher=Réunion des musées nationaux |others=Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet |isbn=978-2-7118-5759-3 |location=Paris |pages=68 |language=fr |oclc=700141350 |quote="[...] la veste [[jeogori|chogori]] se ferme ensuite sur la droite à l'imitation des [[ru (upper garment)|vestes chinoises]]"}}</ref> this style of closure is called ''Woo-Yim'' ({{Korean|hangul=우임|hanja=右衽}}; {{Lang-zh|c=右衽|p=yòurèn}}) and originated in the [[Shang dynasty]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yu |first=Song-Ok |date=1980 |title=A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198020336527455.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=3 |pages=29–46 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref>

==== Goreum ====
Traditionally, there are many types of ''goreum. Goreum'' refers to strings of cloth that fasten clothes together. Fabric ''goreum'' were potentially used since [[Gojoseon]]. They were originally practical but often decorative. [[Silla]] had regulations against types of ''Dae'' (belts) and decorative ''goreum'' for each [[Bone-rank system|Golpoom]]. Southern parts of Korea, including [[Silla]], had a colorful ''goreum'' on the front of the neck, which influenced [[Yayoi period|Yayoi]] culture. Parts of [[Goguryeo]] style had a fabric ''goreum'' loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the ''jeogori'' was usually wrapped across the front, the outside ''goreum'' was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in [[Joseon|Joseon Dynasty]], the ''goreum'' slowly moved to the front of the ''jeogori''. In the 20th century, the ''goreum'' became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the ''jeogori'' and was coined the ''Ot-goreum.''

==== Danchu ====
Other than fabric strings, danchu (buttons) were also used. There are many types of danchu.<ref>{{Cite web |title=단추 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0013683 |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref> One example is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like [[Qing dynasty|Manchurian]] buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest).

===Chima===
''Chima'' refers to "skirt", and is also called ''sang'' ({{linktext|裳}}) or ''gun'' ({{linktext|裙}}) in [[hanja]].<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=268156&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture|EncyKorea]] |language=ko}}</ref><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=191326&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Britannica]] |language=ko}}</ref> The underskirt, or [[petticoat]] layer, is called ''sokchima''. ''Chima-malgi'' is the waistband that trims the top of the ''chima''. From [[Goguryeo]]<ref name="Doosan" /> to [[Joseon Dynasty|Joseon]] period, various styles of ''chima'' existed such as striped, pleated, patchworked, and [[Gore (segment)|gored]] skirts. ''Chima'' were typically made from rectangular panels that were [[pleat]]ed or [[gather (sewing)|gathered]] into the ''chima-malgi'' (waistband).<ref name="CHA">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials:117-23 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175740/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |archive-date=2012-02-27 |access-date=2010-01-07 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref> This waistband also had ''goreum'' strings for fastening the skirt around the body.<ref name="CHA2">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials: 229-1-4. Skirt belonging to a Jinju Ha clan woman, who died in 1646 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175748/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-27 |access-date=2010-01-07 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref>

==== Goguryeo ====
According to the murals of [[Goguryeo]] and an earthen toy excavated from the neighbourhood of [[Hwangnam-dong]], [[Gyeongju]], Goguryeo women usually wore the ''jeogori'' over the ''chima,'' covering the top of the chima.<ref name="Koreana">{{cite journal |url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html |title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development |author=Cho, Woo-hyun |publisher=Koreana |volume=9 |issue=3 }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle">{{cite web |url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷 |trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing |publisher=Korea the sense |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |archive-date=2012-03-02 }}</ref> One popular fashion was the A-line ''chima''.

==== Goryeo ====
Variety of chima was worn during the [[Goryeo]] dynasty.

==== Joseon ====
Variety of chima was worn during the [[Joseon]] dynasty.

==== Late modern period ====
''Sokchima'' was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added,<ref name="GoodPeople">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=2010-01-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507071544/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |archive-date=May 7, 2010 }}</ref> later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called ''Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima''.<ref name="GoodPeople2">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=2010-01-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507072422/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |archive-date=May 7, 2010 }}</ref> By the mid-20th century, some outer ''chima'' also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the ''jeogori''.<ref name="RecycleLACMARedSkirt">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/red-korean-skirt-chima_01.html |title=Recycle LACMA: Red Korean Skirt |date=June 2009 |publisher=Robert Fontenot |access-date=2010-01-07 }}</ref><ref name="RecycleLACMA">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/purple-korean-skirt-chima_01.html|title=Recycle LACMA: Purple Korean Skirt|date=June 2009|publisher=Robert Fontenot|access-date=2010-01-07}}</ref>

===Baji===
''[[Baji (clothing)|Baji]]'' refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the formal term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three kingdoms period]].<ref name="asia-planet.net">{{cite web|url=http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm|title=Korea Information|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140406184640/http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm|archive-date=6 April 2014|url-status=dead}}</ref> It functions as modern trousers do and the term ''baji'' is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants.

The ''baji-malgi'' is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of ''goreum''.

Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on.

===Po===
''[[Po (clothing)|Po]]'' is a generic term referring to an outer [[robe]] or [[overcoat]]. There are two general types of ''po'', the Korean type and the Chinese type.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

The Korean type is a common style from the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period, and it is used in the modern day.<ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture">{{cite web|url=http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=531496&cid=46671&categoryId=46671 |script-title=ko:포 (袍)|publisher=[[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture]] |access-date=2015-04-23 |language=ko}}</ref> There were many ways to fasten the coat but mainly a belt was used in conjunction with a ribbon ''goreum'' until the ribbon ''goreum'' became mainstream during late Joseon dynasty. ''[[Durumagi]]'' is a type of ''po'' that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over ''jeogori'' and ''baji''. It is also called ''jumagui'', ''juchaui'', or ''juui''.<ref name="EncyKorea" /><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica1">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=128263&v=45 |script-title=ko:두루마기 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-30 |language=ko}}</ref>

The Chinese type consist of different types of ''po'' from mainland China. Starting from the [[Northern and Southern States period|North–South states period]], they were mainly adopted as court uniforms that localized into Korean culture throughout history. In 1895, there was a nation-wide adoption of the Korean type ''durumagi'' to regulate clothes and luxury items.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

<gallery>
File:King Taejo Yi 02.jpg|''[[Dragon robe]]'' (or ikseongwanpo): business attire for king
File:Portrait of King Yeongjo - Chae Yong Shin (蔡龍臣 1850-1941) Cho Seok-jin (趙錫晉 1853-1920) et (cropped).jpg|''Hongryongpo'': everyday clothes for king
File:Emper Kojong.jpg|alt=Hwangryongpo: everyday clothes for emperor styled after the Chinese imperial robe. Gojong began to wear the yellow robe once restricted only to the Chinese emperors.|''Hwangryongpo'': everyday clothes for a Sino-sphere emperor styled after the Chinese imperial robe. Once restricted to Chinese emperors, Gojong began to wear the yellow robe after establishing the Korean Empire.
File:Korea-Portrait of Emperor Gojong-01.jpg|''Tongcheongwan'' and ''Gangsapo''
</gallery>

=== Deot-ot ===
''Deot-ot'' refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the ''jeogori''. Po also falls under this category. There are many varieties other than the ones listed here.

==== Banbi ====
''Banbi'' refers to a variety of short sleeved garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It was imported from [[Tang Dynasty]], and first appeared in [[Unified Silla Dynasty]]. It was worn by aristocrats of Unified Silla Dynasty.<ref>[http://contents.history.go.kr/front/nh/view.do?levelId=nh_009_0040_0050_0010_0020_0050 "반비 - 우리역사넷"], Historynet of National Institute of Korean History. 2023-02-02</ref>

==== Bigap ====
A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from [[Mongol Empire|Mongolian]] clothing worn during the [[Goryeo]] period.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=최 |first=해율 |date=2007 |title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & multimedia-Focused on rich women's costume of Goryeo-yang and Mongol-pung in Thirteenth to Fourteenth Century- |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART001040833 |journal=한국복식학회 |volume=57 |issue=1 |pages=176–186}}</ref>

==== Baeja and Kwaeja ====
Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. ''Kwaeja'' is interchangeable with ''Baeja,'' but ''Kwaeja'' often refers to men's clothing''.''

==== Dapho ====
The [[dapho]] is a short sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform.

==== ''Jokki'' ====
''Jokki'' ({{Lang-ko|조끼}}) is a type of [[vest]], while ''[[magoja]]'' is an outer jacket. The ''jokki'' was created around late [[Joseon dynasty]], as [[Western culture]] began to affect Korea.

==== ''Magoja'' ====
''Magoja'' was originally styled after the clothing of the [[Manchu people]], and was introduced to Korea after [[Heungseon Daewongun]], the father of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], returned from his political [[exile]] in [[Tianjin]] in 1887.<ref name="Britannica1" /><ref name="Life in Korea">{{cite web |title=Men's Clothing |url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=male |access-date=2008-11-01 |publisher=Life in Korea}}</ref> Long sleeved ''Magoja'' were derived from the ''[[Magua (clothing)|magwae]]'' he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, ''magoja'' became popular in Korea. It is also called ''"deot jeogori"'' (literally "an outer ''jeogori''") or ''magwae''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

''Magoja'' does not have a ''git'', the band of fabric trimming the collar.<ref name="KBS" /> ''Magoja'' was originally a male garment but later became [[unisex]]. The ''magoja'' for men sometimes has ''seop'' ({{korean|hangul=섶}}, overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's ''magoja'', with both sides open at the bottom. A ''magoja'' can be made of [[silk]] and often adorned with ''danchu'' which are usually made from [[amber]]. In men's ''magoja'', buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's ''magoja''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

===Children's hanbok===
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok for children-01.jpg|thumb|Children's hanbok]]

Traditionally, ''[[Kkachi durumagi]]'' (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as ''seolbim'' ([[Hangul]]: 설빔), new clothing and shoes worn on the Korean celebration of [[Korean New Year]],, while at present, it is worn as a ceremonial garment for ''[[doljanchi|dol]]'', the celebration for a baby's first birthday.<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi">{{cite web|url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 | publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[EncyKorea]] | access-date=2008-09-30 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610044200/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 | archive-date=2011-06-10 | language=ko}}</ref><ref name="dol">{{cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|title=Geocities.com|publisher=Julia's Cook Korean site|access-date=2007-11-29|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091027145013/http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|archive-date=2009-10-27|url-status=dead}}</ref> It is a children's colorful overcoat.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://engdic.daum.net/dicen//view_detail.do?q=%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2%B8%A6%20%C0%D4%C0%BA%20%B3%B2%BE%C6%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&qalias=K144180 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] Korean-English Dictionary |language=ko, en }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> It was worn mostly by young boys.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?33064&contentno=33064|title=Encyber.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}{{dead link|date=October 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The clothes is also called ''obangjang durumagi'' which means "an overcoat of five directions".<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi" /> It was worn over ''jeogori'' (a jacket) and ''jokki'' (a vest), while the wearer could put ''[[jeonbok]]'' (a long vest) over it. ''Kkachi durumagi'' was also worn along with [[headgear]] such as ''[[bokgeon]]'' (a peaked cloth hat),<ref>[http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc The Groom's Wedding Attire] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423212820/http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc |date=2009-04-23 }} Academia Koreana of Keimyung University</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|title=What are the traditional national clothes of Korea?|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160110071752/http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|archive-date=10 January 2016|url-status=dead|df=dmy-all}}</ref> ''hogeon'' (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or ''[[gulle]]'' (decorative headgear) for young girls.<ref name="Doosan" />{{Request quotation|date=May 2015}}<ref name="tour2korea">{{cite web|url=http://visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_3_2.jsp |title=Hanboks (Traditional Clothings) |work=Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok |publisher=[[Korea Tourism Organization]] |access-date=2008-10-06}}</ref>[[File:Children dressed in Korean traditional clothing at the opening ceremony for Old Korean Legation - 2018 (42300672731).jpg|thumb|Children in [[Washington DC]] wearing {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}]]

=== Foreign influences in design ===
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and [[Indigenous peoples|indigenous]] styles, including significant influences from various [[Chinese dynasties]], resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the {{transliteration|zh|[[Shenyi|simui]]}} from [[Song dynasty]],<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Kim |first=In-Suk |date=1977 |title=심의고(深依考) |url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO197720336527429.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=1 |pages=101–117 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref> ''[[gwanbok]]'' worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]],<ref name=":22" /><ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |last=Kyu-Seong |first=Choi |date=2004 |title=A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page |journal=The Research Journal of the Costume Culture |volume=12 |issue=6 |pages=1060–1069 |issn=1226-0401}}</ref> [[Song dynasty|Song]],<ref name=":17" /> and [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]],<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121 |title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia |date=2018 |others=Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong |isbn=978-3-319-97199-5 |location=Cham, Switzerland |pages=116 |oclc=1059514121}}</ref> and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] dynasties,<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/156808055 |title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history |date=2008 |others=Jill Condra |isbn=978-0-313-33662-1 |location=Westport, Connecticut |oclc=156808055}}</ref><ref>McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228</ref> the [[Terlig|''cheolik'']] from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court,<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Cho |first1=Woohyun |last2=Yi |first2=Jaeyoon |last3=Kim |first3=Jinyoung |date=2015 |title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig |url=https://akjournals.com/doi/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae |language=en |volume=68 |issue=3 |pages=22–29 |doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |issn=0001-6446}}</ref> and the ''[[magoja]]'' from Manchu clothing.

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and [[Goryeo]] hanbok had cultural influence on some [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty|clothing of Yuan dynasty]] worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing<ref name=":102" /> and in the Yuan imperial court<ref name=":0" />).<ref>고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957</ref> Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.<ref name="Daum Global">{{cite web |script-title=ko:옷의 역사 |url=http://donation.enc.daum.net/wikidonation/ency.do?vol=008&code=005002003000000000 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] / [[Global World Encyclopedia]] |language=ko}}</ref>

== Occasions ==
[[File:Korean.costume-Hanbok-wedding.bride-01.jpg|thumb|140px|''[[Hwarot]]'', bride clothes]]
Hanbok is classified according to its purposes: everyday dress, ceremonial dress, and special dress. Ceremonial dresses are worn on formal occasions, including a child's first birthday, a wedding, or a funeral. Special dresses are made for shamans and officials.<ref name="asia-planet.net"/>

Hanbok was worn daily up until just 100 years ago, it was originally designed to facilitate ease of movement. But now, it is only worn on festive occasions or special anniversaries.<ref>(Korea.net 2011, May Hanbok Korean Traditional clothes)</ref> It is a formal dress and most Koreans keep a hanbok for special times in their life such as wedding, Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving), and Seollnal (Korean New Year's), Children wear hanbok during their first birthday celebration ([[Hangul]]: 돌잔치) etc.<ref>{{cite web |title=Chuseok Hanbok |url=https://chuseok.org/chuseok-hanbok/ |website=Chuseok.org}}</ref> While the traditional hanbok was beautiful in its own right, the design has changed slowly over the generations. The core of hanbok is its graceful shape and vibrant colors, it is hard to think of hanbok as everyday wear but it is slowly being revolutionized through the changing of fabrics, colors and features, reflecting the desire of people.

Women's traditional {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of jeogori, which is a type of jacket, and chima, which is a wrap around skirt that is usually worn with a petticoat underneath. A man's hanbok consists of jeogori (jacket) and baggy pants that are called baji. There are also additional outer layers, such as the Po which is an outer coat, or robe, jokki which is a type of vest and magoja which is an outer jacket worn over jeogori for warmth and style.<ref>Sarah H, Jeong (2006, February) Hanbok, Korean Traditional Dress</ref>

The color of hanbok symbolized social position and marital status. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions.

Also, the status and position can be identified by the material of the hanbok. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials.<ref>Misie Lander (2017, January). Hanbok: An Introduction to South Korea's National Dress</ref>

==History==
=== Three Kingdoms of Korea ===
[[File:7th century painting of Koreans.png|thumb|7th-century Chinese [[Tang dynasty]] painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla.]]
The earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD).<ref>{{cite book|last1=Myeong-Jong|first1=Yoo|title=The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities|date=2005|publisher=Discovery Media|isbn=978-8995609101|page=123}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-ZuImINv0soC&pg=PA366|title=Peoples of Eastern Asia|date=2004|publisher=Marshall Cavendish|isbn=9780761475545|editor1-last=Macdonald|editor1-first=Fiona|page=366|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name=":82">{{cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Samuel Songhoon|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ|title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition|date=2015|publisher=Seoul Selection|isbn=9781624120565|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name="KCIS2">{{cite book|last1=Korean Culture and Information Service (South Korea)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NoxoBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA90|title=Guide to Korean Culture: Korea's cultural heritage|date=2014|publisher=길잡이미디어|isbn=9788973755714|page=90|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> The origin of ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and [[Manchuria]].<ref name="Greenwood2">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&pg=PA223|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History, Volume II|date=2008|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313336645|editor1-last=Condra|editor1-first=Jill|page=223|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> Some hypothesize that the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the [[Eurasian Steppes]] ([[Scythian clothing]]), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the [[Steppe Route]].<ref name="kim 7 154">Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15</ref><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035">Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003</ref><ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계">{{cite journal|title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20(1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> Reflecting its [[nomad]]ic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} shared structural similarities with ''[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]'' type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia'','' designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement,<ref name=":52" /><ref name=":23"/><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22">{{cite journal|last1=김소희|last2=채금석|year=2018|title=Scythai's clothing type and style: Focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20(1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket.<ref name=":20">{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=Youngsoo (Associate Professor, Department of Cultural Heritage, Gyeongju University) |date=2020 |title=Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types |script-title=ko:한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE09329939 |journal=복식 |language=ko |volume=70 |issue=2 |pages=188–208 |doi=10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188}}</ref> However, although the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised.<ref name=":20" /> It is also important to note that the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals were primarily painted in two geographical regions: [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]].<ref name=":022">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The former is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid-fourth to the mid-seventh centuries.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}} While the mural paintings found in regions Ji'an typically shows the characteristics of Goguryeo people in terms of their customs and morals; those from the regions of Pyeongyang typically show the cultural influences of the [[Han dynasty]] as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years, including Chinese-style clothing.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}}

==== Goguryeo ====
Early forms of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo tombs|Goguryeo tomb]] murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD.<ref name="KCIS2" /><ref name="Greenwood2" /><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22" /><ref>Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214</ref> Trousers, long jackets and ''twii'' (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day,<ref>{{cite web|author=[[Korea Tourism Organization]]|date=November 20, 2008|title=The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok|url=http://www.korea.net/news/News/LangView.asp?serial_no=20081111006|publisher=Korea.net}}</ref> except for the length and the ways the ''jeogori'' opening was closed as over the years.<ref name=":82" /> The ''jeogori'' opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a [[kaftan]] or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.<ref name=":82" /> Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the ''jeogori'' at the right became a standard practice.<ref name=":82" /> The length of the female ''jeogori'' also varied.<ref name=":82" /> For example, women's ''jeogori'' seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's ''jeogori''.<ref name=":82" />

In early Goguryeo, the ''jeogori'' jackets were hip-length [[Kaftan]] tunics belted at the waist, and the ''po'' overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at [[Noin-Ula burial site|Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula]].{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}} Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts.<ref name=":15">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/843418851|title=Encyclopedia of national dress : traditional clothing around the world|date=2013|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-37637-5|location=Santa Barbara, Calif.|pages=409|oclc=843418851}}</ref>

Two types of ''hwa'' (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

During this period, [[Pointed hat|conical hat]] and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=권준희 |date=2003 |title=The Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear of Koguryo(高句麗) and Shilla(新羅) |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART000851432 |journal=Journal of Korean Traditional Costume |language=kr |volume=6 |issue=3 |pages=6–84 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref> were worn as headgear.<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계"/> Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ''ochaebok''.<ref name=":82"/> The precursor of what is now known as the ''[[durumagi]]'' was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.<ref name=":82" /> Originally the ''durumagi'' was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.<ref name=":82" /> In Muyong-chong murals of ''[[Goguryeo]]'', there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese [[Water sleeves|water-sleeves]], was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day [[Korean dance|Korean court dances]] and [[Korean shamanism|mu-ism]] rituals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}}

<gallery>
File:Goguryeo tomb mural.jpg|A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from [[Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom]], 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China.
File:Goguryeo servants.jpg|Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long jeogori jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD.
File:Goguryeo tomb 07.jpg
File:수산리 고구려벽화.jpg
</gallery>

=== North-South States period ===
In the [[North-South States Period]] (698–926 AD), [[Silla]] and [[Balhae]] adopted ''[[dallyeong]]'', a [[circular-collar robe]] from the [[Tang dynasty]] of China.<ref>Lee, Tae-ok. Cho, Woo-hyun. Study on Danryung structure. Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference. 2003. pp. 49-49.</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Nam|first1=Min-yi|last2=Han|first2=Myung-Sook|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123}}</ref> In Silla, the ''[[Round collar robe|dallyeong]]'' was introduced by [[Muyeol of Silla]] in the second year of queen [[Jindeok of Silla]].<ref name=":1"/><ref name=":22"/> The ''dallyeong'' style from China was used as ''[[gwanbok]]'', a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and ''[[dragon robe]]'', a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon.<ref name=":1"/>

==== United Silla ====
The [[Silla]] Kingdom unified the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three Kingdoms]] in 668 AD. The [[Later Silla|Unified Silla]] (668-935 AD) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of [[Luoyang]] which included Chinese dress styles, the second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western [[Empire silhouette]]. King [[Muyeol of Silla]] personally travelled to the [[Tang dynasty]] to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), [[Round collar robe|danryunpo]] (團領袍; round collar gown), [[banbi]], baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾).<ref name=":22">{{Cite journal|last1=Yu|first1=Ju-Ri|last2=Kim|first2=Jeong-Mee|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469}}</ref> Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are ''danryunpo'' and ''bokdu''.<ref name=":22"/> The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of [[Jindeok of Silla|Queen Jindeok]]; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2013|publisher=길잡이미디어|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> In 664 AD, [[Munmu of Silla]] decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the [[Tang dynasty]]; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the [[Tang dynasty]].<ref name=":22"/> Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the ''jeogori''.<ref name=":22"/><ref name=":21">{{Cite book|last=Lee|first=Samuel Songhoon.|url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/871061483|title=Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition|year=2013|isbn=978-89-97639-41-0|oclc=871061483}}</ref> The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court.<ref name=":15" /><ref name=":9">{{Cite book|last=Pratt|first=Keith L.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42675362|title=Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary|date=1999|publisher=Curzon Press|others=Richard Rutt, James Hoare|isbn=978-0-7007-0464-4|location=Richmond, Surrey|pages=106|oclc=42675362}}</ref> The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, [[Heungdeok of Silla|King Heundeog]] enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD.<ref name=":22" /> The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing.<ref name=":22" />

<gallery>
File:Korea-National.Folk.Museum-01.jpg|Reconstruction of [[Silla]] king's and queen's attire
File:Gold Waist Belt from the North Mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb.jpg|Gold waist belt used by royalty of Silla.
File:신라 토용2.jpg|Women figures wearing Tang-dynasty style clothing, Silla.
</gallery>

==== Balhae ====
[[Balhae]] (698–926 AD) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous [[Mohe people]] elements.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/864678409|title=A new history of Parhae|date=2012|publisher=Global Oriental|others=John B. Duncan, Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan |isbn=978-90-04-24299-9 |location=Leiden |oclc=864678409}}</ref> Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition.<ref name=":4" /> However, after [[Mun of Balhae]], Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the ''putou'' and round collared gown for its official attire.<ref name=":4" /> Male everyday clothing was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts.<ref name=":4" /> Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ''ungyeon'' (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after the demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm.<ref name=":4" />

=== Goryeo dynasty ===
The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} still used by the commoners,{{Citation needed|date=January 2022|reason=Need a clear source}} In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class.<ref name="Koreana2">{{cite journal|author=Cho, Woo-hyun|title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development|url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html|publisher=Koreana|volume=9|issue=3}}{{dead link|date=December 2017|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle2">{{cite web|script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷|trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing|url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|archive-date=2012-03-02|publisher=Korea the sense|language=ko}}</ref> The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=김남정|date=2000|title=조선시대 치마에 관한 연구|url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/184592}}</ref>

In [[Goryeo Buddhist paintings]], the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the [[Song dynasty]].<ref name=":72">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1154853080|title=A companion to Korean art|date=2020|others=J. P. Park, Burglind Jungmann, Juhyung Rhi|isbn=978-1-118-92702-1|location=Hoboken, NJ|pages=192|oclc=1154853080}}</ref> The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=436|oclc=38831761}}</ref> On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in [[Yuan dynasty]] rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo.<ref name=":72" /> The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when [[Goryeo under Mongol rule|Goryeo was under Mongol rule]] (1270 –1356).<ref name=":18">{{Cite journal|last1=Chae|first1=Keum Seok|last2=Kim|first2=Eun Kyoung|date=2016|title=The Study on Costume Shapes through Goryeo Dynasty Paintings -Comparison with Song and Yuan Style-|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201608967046815.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=40|issue=6|pages=1116–1133|doi=10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.1116|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the ''Royal Palace Mandala'', the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court.<ref name=":18" />

<gallery>
File:Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara (detailed view of patrons).jpg|Details of the ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'' painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=435–436|oclc=38831761}}</ref>
File:Goryeohanbok.jpg|alt=A noblewoman's attire in Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara,It were chima jeogori,it was a Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.|Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'', Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.<ref name=":18" />
File:王宮曼荼羅図.jpg|Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting ''Royal Palace Mandala'', late Goryeo
File:Goryeo lady joban.jpg|Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty.
File:Korea-National.Treasure-110-Yi.Jehyung-portrait-NMK.jpg|Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing [[Shenyi|simui]].
</gallery>Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the [[Goryeo]] dynasty signed a peace treaty with the [[Mongol Empire]] in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life.<ref name=":22"/><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035" /><ref name="koreanculture.org">{{cite web|url=http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm |title=Hanbok |publisher=Korean Overseas Information Service}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110717173525/http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|url-status=dead|archive-date=17 July 2011|title=UriCulture.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref> A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the Kings of Goryeo.<ref name=":0" /> The [[Yuan dynasty]] princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents.<ref name=":22"/> As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court.<ref name=":22"/> The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called ''Mongolpung''.<ref name=":0" /> King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the [[Yuan dynasty]] and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing.<ref name=":22"/> After the fall of the [[Yuan dynasty]], only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared.<ref name=":22"/> As a result of the Mongol influence, the ''chima'' skirt was shortened, and ''jeogori'' was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}''g'' (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the ''twii'' (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly.{{Citation needed|date=May 2021}}

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the [[Mongols]] court of the [[Yuan dynasty]] (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, [[Khanbaliq]].<ref>Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=001&oid=028&aid=0000100944&|title=News.Naver.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|title=ChinaCulture.org|access-date=8 October 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141124213026/http://www.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|archive-date=24 November 2014}}</ref> However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nx5JDiacrH4C&q=korea&pg=PA16|title=Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=978-1-59265-019-4|page=6}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Kim|first1=Jinyoung|last2=Lee|first2=Jaeyeong|last3=Lee|first3=Jongoh|date=2015|title="GORYEOYANG" AND "MONGOLPUNG" in the 13th-14th CENTURIES|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957480|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=281–292|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.3|jstor=43957480|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were ''kongnyo'' (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Soh|first=Chung-Hee|date=2004|title=Women's Sexual Labor and State in Korean History|url=http://muse.jhu.edu/content/crossref/journals/journal_of_womens_history/v015/15.4soh.html|journal=Journal of Women's History|volume=15|issue=4|pages=170–177|doi=10.1353/jowh.2004.0022|s2cid=144785547|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as ''kongnyo'' against their will.<ref name=":0" /> Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.<ref name=":0" /> However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was [[Empress Gi]] who was elevated as empress in 1365.<ref name=":0" /> Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.<ref name=":0" /> The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as ''Goryeoyang'' ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short [[banbi]] (半臂) with square collar (方領).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":102">{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Hai-Yaul|date=2007|title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200708508472010.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=57|issue=1|pages=176–186|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.<ref name=":102"/> According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [''Koryŏ yang''] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."<ref>{{Cite book|last=Park|first=Hyunhee|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1198087560|title=Soju : a global history|date=2021|isbn=978-1-108-89577-4|location=Cambridge|pages=124–125|oclc=1198087560}}</ref> Tracing the development and evolution of {{Transliteration|ko|goryeoyang}} (高麗樣), it can be found that the popular {{Transliteration|ko|banryeong banbi}} (方領半臂) during the Yuan Dynasty were actually the result of the influence of ancient Chinese costumes on the Korean Peninsula before the Yuan Dynasty. According to the 高麗史·舆服志<ref>高麗史·舆服志</ref>[https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E9%AB%98%E9%BA%97%E5%8F%B2/%E5%8D%B7%E4%B8%83%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%8C#冠服通制], the Goryeo costume system inherited the costume system of the Tang Dynasty. The half arm was developed from the half sleeves in the Han and Wei Dynasties. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the half arm became a fashionable dress for women. In the Tang Dynasty, half-arms were worn on top of the coat, or under the coat and on top of the mid-single. With the lower skirt, the half-arm shirt appeared in the form of a placket. The half arm of the Tang Dynasty spread to the Korean peninsula, and continued to be inherited and developed during the Goryeo Dynasty, becoming an important costume of the Goryeo Dynasty.

===Joseon dynasty===
{{More citations needed section|date=September 2019}}
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939 |title=Guide to Korean culture. |date=2013 |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-571-4 |location=Seoul, Republic of Korea |pages=92 |oclc=882879939}}</ref> Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.<ref name=":19" /> After the [[Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98)]] or ''Imjin War'', economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric.<ref name="Chosun Ilbo2">{{cite news |title=Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions |newspaper=Chosun Ilbo |url=http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2006/05/29/2006052961020.html |access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref>

==== Women's everyday wear ====
[[File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1.jpg|thumb|Ordinary people's clothing,<ref name=":18" /> Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD, Early Joseon]]
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398);<ref>[http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/ECulresult_Db_View.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,04590000,38&queryText=(mural%3Cin%3E%20z_title)%3Cand%3E(V_EYEAR%20%3E=1350)&requery=0 Miryang gobeomni bagik byeokhwamyo (Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang)]. [[Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea|Cultural Heritage Administration]]. Accessed 15 July 2009.</ref> the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Administration |first=Cultural Heritage |title=Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search |url=http://english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do;jsessionid=zlMQLnmvrCZ3g9fsza7XSFD2VaW1HbZAfUE3Mxu7kkbLeRDLJK64zg5QpV9bYqor.cha-was01_servlet_engine4?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=04590000&sCcebCtcd=38&pageIndex=279&region=&canAsset=&ccebPcd1=&searchWrd=&startNum=&endNum=&stCcebAsdt=&enCcebAsdt=&canceled=&ccebKdcd=&ccebCtcd= |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=Cultural Heritage Administration - English Site |language=en}}</ref> The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the [[Ming dynasty]] clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Welters |first=Linda |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828 |title=Fashion history : a global view |date=2018 |others=Abby Lillethun |isbn=978-1-4742-5363-5 |location=London, UK |oclc=1004424828}}</ref> During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when ''chima'' was rather slim and ''jeogori'' baggy and long, reaching well below waist level.

In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&q=Silla+hanbok&pg=PA222|title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history|date=2008|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-33662-1|location=Westport, Connecticut|pages=222–223|oclc=156808055}}</ref> Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Murray |first=Anne Wood (Emeritus Curator of American Costume, Division of Costume, Department of Social and Cultural History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.) |title=Dress - Korea |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |access-date=2021-03-10 |website=Encyclopædia Britannica |quote="In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China."}}</ref> In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939|title=Guide to Korean culture.|date=2013|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-571-4|location=Seoul, Republic of Korea|pages=93|oclc=882879939}}</ref><ref name=":11" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Sunny|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39614017|title=Hanbok : the art of Korean clothing|date=1997|publisher=Hollym|isbn=1-56591-082-6|location=Elizabeth, N.J.|pages=61|oclc=39614017}}</ref> The 15th century AD ''chima-jeogori'' style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima.<ref name=":11" /><gallery>
File:영의정하연부부영정4.jpg|15th century lady
File:영의정하연부부영정2.jpg|15th century lady
</gallery>However, by the 16th century, the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries.<ref>Keum, Ki-Suk "The Beauty of Korean Traditional Costume" (Seoul: Yeorhwadang, 1994) {{ISBN|89-301-1039-8}} p.43</ref><ref name="Contemporary Artwork of Women2">{{cite web|title=Contemporary Artwork of Korean Women|url=http://medieval-baltic.us/korot2.html|access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref><ref name="Chosun Ilbo2" /> In the 16th century, women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} was long, wide, and covered the waist.<ref name="저고리2">{{cite web|last1=허윤희|title=조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져|url=http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/06/27/2011062702249.html|access-date=6 September 2019|website=조선닷컴|language=ko}}</ref> The length of women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} gradually shortened: it was approximately 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm.<ref name="저고리2" /> A {{Transliteration|ko|heoritti}} (허리띠) or {{Transliteration|ko|jorinmal}} (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts.<ref name="저고리2" /> The trend of wearing a short jeogori with a heoritti was started by the [[gisaeng]] and soon spread to women of the upper class.<ref name="저고리2" /> Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they [[Toplessness|revealed their breasts]] by removing a cloth to make breastfeeding more convenient.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Han|first1=Hee-sook|date=2004|title=Women's Life during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://ijkh.khistory.org/journal/view.php?number=342|journal=International Journal of Korean History|volume=6|issue=1|page=142|access-date=6 September 2019}}</ref> As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women".<ref name=":21" /> During the 17th and 18th centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. In the 18th century, the ''jeogori'' became very short to the point that the waistband of the ''chima'' was visible; this style was first seen on female entertainers at the Joseon court.<ref name=":12" /> The ''jeogori'' continued to shorten until it reached the modern times ''jeogori''-length; i.e. just covering the breasts.<ref name=":11" /> The fullness of the skirt reached its extreme around 1800. During the 19th century fullness of the skirt was achieved around the knees and ankles thus giving ''chima'' a triangular or an A-shaped silhouette, which is still the preferred style to this day. Many [[Sokgot|undergarments]] such as ''darisokgot,'' ''soksokgot,'' ''dansokgot'', and ''gojengi'' were worn underneath to achieve desired forms.<gallery>
File:Chimajeogori002.jpg|Women's hanbok consists of ''chima'' skirt and ''jeogori'' shirt by Shin Yunbok
File:18thcentury maid.jpg|Full skirt and tight ''jeogori'' were considered fashionable. 18th century.
File:Yangban.jpg|A rare painting of ''[[yangban]]'' women. ''Yangban'' ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried [[Seonbi]] scholars. 18th century.
File:18thcentury innerwear.jpg|''Soksokgot'', similar to a [[petticoat]], is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
File:Hyewon-Ssanggeum.daemu.jpg|Dancing together with two swords
</gallery>

At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced ''[[magoja]]'', a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over ''jeogori'' to this day.

A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok. Modern ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. ''Heoritti'' are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons.

==== Men's everyday wear ====
[[File:Interior_1,_Unhyeongung_-_Seoul,_Korea.JPG|thumb|Male aristocrat dress: a ''[[Gat (hat)|gat]]'' (a [[horsehair]] hat) on the head and yellow ''[[Dopo (clothing)|dopo]]'' (overcoat)]]Men's hanbok saw little change compared to women's hanbok. The form and design of ''jeogori'' and ''baji'' hardly changed.

In contrast, men's lengthy outwear, the equivalent of the modern overcoat, underwent a dramatic change. Before the late 19th century, ''yangban'' men almost always wore ''jungchimak'' when traveling. ''Jungchimak'' had very lengthy sleeves, and its lower part had splits on both sides and occasionally on the back so as to create a fluttering effect in motion. To some this was fashionable, but to others, namely stoic scholars, it was nothing but pure vanity. Daewon-gun successfully banned ''jungchimak'' as a part of his clothes reformation program and ''jungchimak'' eventually disappeared.

''[[Durumagi]]'', which was previously worn underneath ''jungchimak'' and was basically a house dress, replaced ''jungchimak'' as the formal outwear for ''yangban'' men. ''Durumagi'' differs from its predecessor in that it has tighter sleeves and does not have splits on either sides or back. It is also slightly shorter in length. Men's hanbok has remained relatively the same since the adoption of ''durumagi''. In 1884, the Gapsin Dress Reform took place.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Pyun|first1=Kyunghee|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ivZ0DwAAQBAJ&q=myeonbok&pg=PA55|title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia|last2=Wong|first2=Aida Yuen|date=2018|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-3-319-97199-5|location=Cham, Switzerland|oclc=1059514121}}</ref> Under the 1884's decree of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], only narrow-sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the [[durumagi]] or ''chaksuui'' or ''ju-ui'' (周衣).<ref name=":13" />

Hats was an essential part formal dress and the development of official hats became even more pronounced during this era due to the emphasis of Confucian values.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last=Ch'oe|first=Ŭn-su|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2012|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> The [[Gat (hat)|gat]] was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon-era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan.<ref name=":6" /> The popularity of those Chinese hats may have partially been due to the promulgation of Confucianism and because they were used by literary figures and scholars in China.<ref name=":6" /> In 1895, King Gojong decreed adult Korean men to cut their hair short and western-style clothing were allowed and adopted.<ref name=":13" /><gallery>
Image:18thcentur man.jpg|A man wearing ''jungchimak''. 18th century.
Image:Malehanbok002.JPG|The "fluttering" effect. 18th century.
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-01.jpg|''Waryonggwan'' and ''hakchangui'' in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic 3.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic group.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-02.jpg|''Bokgeon'' and ''simui'' in 1880
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-03.jpg|Black ''bokgeon'' and blue ''dopo'' in 1880
Image:Korea-Min Sangho-1898-Hubert Vos.jpg|''[[Chengziguan|Jeongjagwan]]'' on the head
File:A_Corean_in_mourning_clothes.jpg|A Korean in mourning clothes
File:COREANS.jpg|Korean men, 1871
File:Corean_man._Middle_class.jpg|Young Korean man of the [[Chungin|middle class]], 1904
File:Korea-History-1910-1920-Korean.mother.child-Carpenter.Collection.jpg|Korean mother and daughter, 1910–1920
</gallery>

====Material and color====
[[File:Joseon-Portrait_of_Cha_Jegong-Black_danryeongpo.jpg|thumb|225x225px|''Heuk dallyeongpo'' in the late 18th century]]
The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven [[ramie]] cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best.

The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white, but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal. The color of ''chima'' showed the wearer's social position and statement. For example, a navy color indicated that a woman had son(s). Only the royal family could wear clothing with ''[[geumbak]]''-printed patterns (gold leaf) on the bottom of the chima.

====Headdresses====
[[File:Miindo-Yun.family.of.Haenam-d1.jpg|left|thumb|140x140px|A woman wearing a wig, or ''[[gache]]'']]
Both male and female wore their hair in a long [[braid]] until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted; man's hair was knotted in a topknot called ''sangtu'' (상투) on the top of the head, and the woman's hair was rolled into a ball shaped form or ''komeori'' and was set just above the nape of the neck.

A long pin, or ''[[binyeo]]'' (비녀), was worn in women's knotted hair as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the ''binyeo'' varied according to the wearer's class and status. And also wore a ribbon or ''[[daenggi]]'' (댕기) to tie and to decorate braided hair. Women wore a ''[[jokduri]]'' on their wedding day and wore an ''[[Ayam (cap)|ayam]]'' for protection from the cold. Men wore a [[Gat (hat)|gat]], which varied according to class and status.

Before the 19th century, women of high social backgrounds and ''[[gisaeng]]'' wore wigs (''[[gache]]''). Like their Western counterparts, Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more desirable and aesthetic. Such was the women's frenzy for the ''gache'' that in 1788 [[Jeongjo of Joseon|King Jeongjo]] banned by royal decree the use of ''gache'', as they were deemed contrary to the [[Korean Confucianism|Korean Confucian]] values of reserve and restraint.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Art of Beauty and Perfume in Ancient Korea {Cultural Notes} {Beauty Notes} - The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine|url=http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2008/04/beauty_perfume_in_traditional.html|website=www.mimifroufrou.com}}</ref>

Owing to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses (''nae-oe-seugae'') to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include ''suegaechima'' (a headdress which looked like a ''chima'' but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper-class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the [[jang-ot]], and the ''neoul'' (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen).<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Cho|first=Seunghye|date=2017-09-03|title=The Ideology of Korean Women's Headdresses during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|journal=Fashion Theory|volume=21|issue=5|pages=553–571|doi=10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|s2cid=165117375|issn=1362-704X}}</ref>

In the 19th century ''yangban'' women began to wear ''jokduri'', a small hat that replaced ''gache''. However ''gache'' enjoyed vast popularity in ''kisaeng'' circles well into the end of the century.

===Later development===
Today's hanbok is the direct descendant of hanbok patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle-class in the [[Joseon]] period,<ref name=":9" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Korean Culture and Information Service Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927|title=Passport to Korean culture.|date=2009|publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-153-2|edition=2009|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=104|oclc=680802927}}</ref> specifically the late 19th century. Hanbok had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical hanbok.

Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western [[Suit (clothing)|suit]] and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, hanbok is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child.

==Modern usage==
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} has been featured in international [[haute couture]]; on the catwalk, in 2015 when [[Karl Lagerfeld|Karl Lagerfield]] dressed Korean models for [[Chanel]], and during [[Paris Fashion Week]] in photography by [[Phil Oh]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|work=Vogue|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as [[Britney Spears]] and [[Jessica Alba]], and athletes, such as tennis player [[Venus Williams]] and football player [[Hines Ward]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.sweetandtastytv.com/blog/2013/07/25/8-american-celebrities-wearing-hanbok|title=8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok|work=SweetandtastyTV|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as [[Lisa Ling]] and [[Miss Asia Pageant|Miss Asia]] 2014, [[Eriko Lee Katayama]].<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |title=KIM MeHee hanbok couture |url=http://www.kimmehee.com/ |website=KIM MeHee hanbok couture}}</ref> It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by [[Sandra Oh]] at the [[Screen Actors Guild Award|SAG Awards]], and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the [[Emmy Award]]s.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/sandra-ohs-mother-makes-history-wearing-traditional-hanbok-red-carpet-082913406.html|title=Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

=== South Korea ===
The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://mengnews.joins.com/view.aspx?aId=3042015|title=Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire|website=Korea JoongAng Daily|language=ko|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent [[K-pop]] artists like [[Blackpink]] and [[BTS]], notably in their music videos for "[[How You Like That]]" and [[Idol (BTS song)|"Idol."]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.sbs.com.au/popasia/blog/2018/08/23/11-times-bts-rocked-traditional-korean-clothing|title=11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing|website=SBS PopAsia|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/news/everything-need-know-blackpink-traditional-korean-hanbok-outfits-in-howyoulikethat-mv/|title=Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV|date=26 June 2020}}</ref>

In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.

=== North Korea ===
{{Multi image
| image1 = Two housewives celebrated the 69th founding anniversary of the DPRK.jpg
| image2 = North Korea 039 (6160325571).jpg
| caption2 = Newlywed bride in hanbok, North Korea
| image3 = At Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (13610012573).jpg
| caption3 = Women wearing uniform joseon-ot, North Korea
| total_width = 350
| caption1 = Women in joseon-ot, North Korea, 2017
| perrow = 2
| header = Joseon-ot in North Korea
| image4 = Girls in Pyongyang.jpg
| caption4 = Little girls wearing chima-jeogori, North Korea, Pyeongyang
}}
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} is also worn present-days [[North Korea]] where it is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}).<ref name=":242">{{Cite web |title=Hanbok in N. Korea |url=http://world.kbs.co.kr/special/northkorea/contents/news/closeup_view.htm?No=378367 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=world.kbs.co.kr |language=en}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of [[Kim Jong-un|Kim Jong-Un]].<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} is currently typically worn during special occasions, e.g. weddings,<ref name=":28">{{Cite book |title=Mysterious Pyongyang: Cosmetics, Beauty Culture and North Korea |publisher=Springer Singapore |others=Nam Sung-wook, Chae Su-lan, Lee Ga-young (editors) |year=2020 |isbn=9789811577031 |language=en}}</ref>{{Rp|page=49}} and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents.<ref name=":242" /> It is also mandated that women wear {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} when attending National events, such as [[Kim Jong-il]]'s birthday (February 16), [[International Women's Day|International women's day]] (March 8), [[Kim Il-sung|Kim Il-Sung's]] birthday (April 15), Foundation Day (September 9).<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=78}} White coloured hanbok is often used as the colour white has been the traditionally favoured by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit.<ref name=":242" />

The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms.<ref name=":242" /> The uniform of female university students is a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} since the early to mid 2000s.<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} can often be found about 30 cm from the ground-level for practice purposes in order to facilitate movements and ensure that women could wear it on their daily workday with ease and comfort; this decrease in skirt length also gives a sense of modern style.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=75}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} patterns also have special meanings, which are given by the North Koreans.<ref name=":242" /> Generally, young people in North Korea likes floral prints and bright colours, while the older generations favours simple styles of clothing and solid colours.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=376}} The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} in North Korea is sometimes characterized by its use of floral patterns which are often added to the sleeves of the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and to the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}}.<ref name=":242" /> [[Azalea|Azalaes]], in particular, are well-favoured in [[Nyongbyon County|Yongbyon]] due to its association with an emotional poem ''Azaleas''《{{Korean|hangul=진달래꽃|labels=no}}》by [[Kim Sowol|Kim So-wol]].<ref name=":242" /> Men occasionally wore {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}}.<ref name=":242" />

However, {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at US$20 while the {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} made in [[China]] with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately US$3000.<ref name=":242" /> The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} by their parents.<ref name=":242" />

==== History ====
The 1950s and 1960s also saw women from the upper-class wore {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} made out of [[rayon]] while a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} consisting of a black long-length {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} and white {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} were used in the 1950s and 1960s where it was generally worn by women;<ref name=":02">{{Cite web |title=Changes in the Clothing Culture of North Korea under the Kim Jong Un Regime |url=https://globalnk.org/note/view?cd=NOT000012 |access-date=2022-08-23 |website=Global North Korea |language=ko}}</ref> this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] period.<ref name=":242" /> This combination is still representative of the ideal woman and remains the official outfit for women in North Korea to this day.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=77}} In the 1980s, the {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} became the official attire of women when attending ceremonies while western-style clothing became the everyday, ordinary clothing.<ref name=":02" />

After the mid-1990s due to extreme econooic contractions, women can purchase their {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in private markers and are allowed to choose their desired colours and designs.<ref name=":242" />

In 2001, [[Lee Young-hee (designer)|Lee Young-Hee]], a South Korean {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designer visited [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] to hold fashion at the Pyeongyang Youth Center on June 4 and 6;<ref name=":27">{{Cite book |last=Yonhap News Agency, Seoul |title=North Korea Handbook |publisher=M. E. Sharpe Incorporated |isbn=9780765635235 |editor-last=Yonhap News Agency}}</ref>{{Rp|page=262}} and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own [[fashion show]] in [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] every spring.<ref name=":02" /> Since 2001, there have been an increased of shops specialized in the customization of {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in Pyeongyang which was reported by the KBCS.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=261}}This increase was due to a project implemented by the public service bureau of the Pyeongyang People's Committee to increase {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} tailoiring shops.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}} These shops are typically found in large cities, such as Pyeongyang and Gaesong but are rarely found in small cities and villages.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}}

=== modern usage of Korean diaspora ===

==== China ====
[[File:연변문예 표지 이미지.jpg|thumb|344x344px|Illustration of vintage {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on a Yanbian magazine cover, China, 1975~1983.]]
In [[China]], the {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is referred as {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=朝鮮服}}; {{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ({{Lang-zh|s=朝鲜族|t=朝鮮族|p=cháoxiǎnzú|l=[[Joseon]] (Korean) ethnic group}}) in China. The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 [[Ethnic minorities in China|ethnic minority in China]];<ref name=":25">{{Cite thesis |title=Chaoxianzu's Traditions of Dress: An Exploration of Identity Within Contemporary Fashion Contexts |url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/handle/10292/13127 |publisher=Auckland University of Technology |date=2020 |degree=Thesis |language=en |first=Wenlian |last=Jin}}</ref> people from {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=240}} They share the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the [[Constitution]] of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities.<ref name=":25" /> The term {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} literally correspond to {{Transliteration|zh|Chosonjok}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선족|hanja=朝鮮族|rr=Chosŏnjok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to {{Transliteration|ko|Hangukgye Junggugin}} ({{Literally|Korean-Chinese}}), which is the actual legal term in South Korea.<ref name=":26">{{Cite web |last=Ahn |first=Yeong-chun |title=[Column] The hanbok belongs to the Korean diaspora, too |url=https://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/english_editorials/1030269.html |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=english.hani.co.kr}}</ref> In the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], where most {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} reside,<ref name=":25" /> the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was mostly worn on special occasions in the past;<ref name=":5"/> however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable.<ref name=":25" />

since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced.<ref name=":25" /> The "reform and opening up" of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} of China.<ref name=":25" /> Following the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} tradition, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a [[mountain]] as per the tradition, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also covers the entire body.<ref name=":25" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} have developed their own style of {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}}<ref name=":24">{{Cite journal |last=Lin |first=Huishun |date=2020 |title=A study on the Alteration of traditional costume of Korean Chinese (I) - Focused on the daily wear |script-title=ko:중국 조선족 전통복식의 변화연구 (I) - 일상복을 중심으로 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE10514397 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |language=ko |volume=22 |issue=4 |pages=63–78}}</ref> due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} As a result, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in South Korea, North Korea, and China, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other. For example, ''Yemi Hanbok'' by Songok Ryu, an ethnic {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} from the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], is unique in both style and business model as it can operate in both South Korea and North Korea.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} In terms of {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} design, ''Yemi Hanbok'' designs are based on Chinese-style designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}} Over the years, the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also changed in length for the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}} and changed in width for the {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, {{Transliteration|ko|dong-jeong}}, sleeves, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}. The {{Transliteration|ko|git}} and {{Transliteration|ko|barae}} have evolved from straight to curve patterns. The wrinkle arrangement, length, and silhouette of the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} have also evolved; some of the skirts were sometimes decorated with [[Goldwork (embroidery)|gold embroidery]] or gold leaf at the bottom hem.<ref name=":24" /> The colours used were also very varied; for example, feminine colours such as pink, yellow, and deep red could be used.<ref name=":24" /> The 1990s saw the use of gold leaf, floral prints, embroidery on the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}}; the use of gradient colours also emerged.<ref name=":24" /> For men, their {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|baji}}, and sleeves were made longer; their {{Transliteration|ko|baji}} also became wider. The {{Transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}} continues to be worn, and the {{Transliteration|ko|baeja}} and {{Transliteration|ko|magoja}} are worn frequently in present-days.<ref name=":24" />

On June 7, 2008, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage.<ref name=":25" /> And, in 2011, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was official designated as being part of the [[intangible cultural heritage]] of China by the Chinese government; while the announcement was welcomed by the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distinctive national culture of Koreans".<ref>{{Cite book |last=Kim |first=Jaeeun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/951625687 |title=Contested embrace : transborder membership politics in twentieth-century Korea |date=2016 |isbn=978-0-8047-9961-4 |location=Stanford, California |oclc=951625687}}</ref>{{Rp|page=239}} In 2022, a girl from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ethnic wore a {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on the [[2022 Winter Olympics|2022 Beijing Winter Olympics]] opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of [[cultural appropriation]].<ref name=":26" />

==Social status==
Especially from the [[Goryeo]] Dynasty, the hanbok started to determine differences in social status (from people with the highest social status (kings), to those of the lowest social status (slaves)<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea">Chung, Hyun-sook, [http://go.galegroup.com/ps/i.do?id=GALE%7CCX3403700685&v=2.1&u=unc_main&it=r&p=GVRL&sw=w "Clothing, Traditional - Korea"], ''Encyclopedia of Modern Asia'', 2002</ref>) and gender through the many types, components,<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea" /> colours,<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/853455231 |title=Color and design |date=2012 |publisher=Berg Publishers |others=Marilyn Revell DeLong, Barbara Martinson |isbn=978-1-84788-953-9 |location=London |oclc=853455231}}</ref>{{Rp|page=132}} and characteristics.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development">Cho, Woo-hyun, [http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131231000234/http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English |date=31 December 2013 }}, "Koreana", 1995</ref> Although the modern Hanbok does not express a person's status or social position, Hanbok was an important element of distinguishment especially in the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development" /> For example, farmers and commoners were not allowed to wear colour garments in their daily lives, excluding some categories of people, such as the shamans, [[Kisaeng|gisaeng]], and children, who were allowed to wear colourful clothing despite their social status.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} Occasions when all people were allowed to wear colourful clothing were for special ceremonial occasions (e.g. wedding, birthday, holidays).<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}}

===Clothes===

==== {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} ====

'''{{Transliteration|ko|[[Hwarot]]}}''' or '''{{Transliteration|ko|hwal-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=활옷}}) was the full dress for a princess and the daughter of a king by a [[concubine]], formal dress for the upper class, and bridal wear for ordinary women during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=47529&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)"], "C News041", 2012/10/23</ref> Popular embroidered patterns on {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} were [[lotus (genus)|lotuses]], [[Phoenix (mythology)|phoenixes]], butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white [[Crane (bird)|cranes]], and deer.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing">Life in Korea, [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official "Official/Court Clothing"], "Life in Korea"</ref> Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor while a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> All these patterns throughout Korean history had meanings of longevity, good luck, wealth and honor.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} also had blue, red, and yellow colored stripes in each [[sleeve]]; a woman usually wore a scarlet-colored skirt and yellow or green-colored [[Jeogori]], a traditional Korean jacket.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} was worn over the [[Jeogori]] and skirt.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A woman also wore her hair in a bun, with an ornamental hairpin and a ceremonial [[coronet]].<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A long ribbon was attached to the ornamental hairpin, the hairpin is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Yongjam}} ({{Korean|hangul=용잠}}).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> In more recent times, people wear {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} on their wedding day, and so the Korean tradition survives in the present day.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" />

====Wonsam====

'''''[[Wonsam]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=원삼}}) was a ceremonial overcoat for a married woman in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=46289&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)"], "C News041", 2012/11/12</ref> The [[Wonsam]] was also adopted from [[China]] and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the [[Tang dynasty]] which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period.<ref name=":1" /> It was mostly worn by royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noblewomen and the colors and patterns represented the various elements of the Korean class system.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> The empress wore yellow; the queen wore red; the crown princess wore a purple-red color;<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} meanwhile a princess, a king's daughter by a [[concubine]], and a woman of a noble family or lower wore green.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> All the upper social ranks usually had two colored stripes in each sleeve: yellow-colored Wonsam usually had red and blue colored stripes, red-colored Wonsam had blue and yellow stripes, and green-colored Wonsam had red and yellow stripes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> Lower-class women wore many accompanying colored stripes and ribbons, but all women usually completed their outfit with '''Onhye''' or '''Danghye''', traditional Korean shoes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" />

====Dangui====

'''''[[Dangui]]''''' or '''''Tangwi''''' ({{Korean|hangul=당의}}) were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing" /> The materials used to make {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=48695&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)"], "C News041", 2012/11/28</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, and the queen wore red.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" /> In the [[Joseon]] dynasty, ordinary women wore {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} as part of their wedding dress.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" />

====Myeonbok and Jeokui====
=====''Myeonbok''=====

'''''[[Myeonbok]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=면복}}) were the king's religious and formal ceremonial robes while '''''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]''''' were the queen's equivalent during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Myeonbok">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=545727&categoryId=1646 "Myeonbok"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Myeonbok was composed of '''Myeonryu-Gwan''' ({{Korean|hangul=면류관}}) and '''Gujang-bok''' ({{Korean|hangul=구장복}}).<ref name="Myeonbok" /> Myonryu-Gwan had beads, which hung loose; these would prevent the king from seeing wickedness.<ref name="Myeonbok" /> There were also wads of cotton in the left and right sides of Myeonryu-Gwan, and these were supposed to make the king oblivious to the influence of corrupt officials. Gujang-bok was black, and it bore nine symbols out of the [[Twelve Ornaments|Twelve ornaments]], which all represented the king.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

=====Nine symbols=====
# [[Dragon]]:A dragon's appearance paralleled how the king governed and subsequently brought balance to the world.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Fire]]: The king was expected to be intelligent and wise to govern the people effectively, like a guiding light represented by the fire.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Pheasant]]: The image of a pheasant represented magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Mountain]]: As a mountain is high, the king was on a par in terms of status and was deserving of respect and worship.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Tiger]]: A tiger represented the king's courage.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Monkey]]: A monkey symbolized wisdom.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Rice]]: As the people needed rice to live, the king was compared to this foodstuff as he had the responsibility of protecting their welfare.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Axe]]: This indicated that the king had the ability to save and take lives.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Water plant]]: Another depiction of the king's magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

=====''Jeokui''=====

'''''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]''''' or '''''Tseogwi''''' ({{Korean|hangul=적의}}) was arranged through the use of different colors as a status symbol within the royal family.<ref name="Jeokui">Lee Eun-ju, [http://navercast.naver.com/contents.nhn?rid=92&contents_id=11084 "Jeokui"], "Naver Cast", 2012/07/31</ref> The empress wore purple-red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue.<ref name="Jeokui" /> "Jeok" means pheasant, and so Jeokui often had depictions of pheasants embroidered onto it.<ref name="Jeokui" />

====Cheolique====
'''''[[Terlig|Cheolique]]''''' (Alt. Cheolick or Cheollik) (Hangul: 철릭) was a Korean adaptation of the [[Terlig|Mongol tunic]], imported in the late 1200s during the [[Goryeo dynasty]]. Cheolique, unlike other forms of Korean clothing, is an amalgamation of a blouse with a kilt into a single item of clothing. The flexibility of the clothing allowed easy horsemanship and archery. During the [[Joseon dynasty]], they continued to be worn by the king, and military officials for such activities.<ref name="Cheolique">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=563301&categoryId=1646 "Cheolique"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations.<ref name="Cheolique" /> A unique characteristic allowed the detachment of the Cheolique's sleeves which could be used as a bandage if the wearer was injured in combat.<ref name="Cheolique" />


====Ayngsam====
'''''[[Panling Lanshan|Ayngsam]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=앵삼|hanja=鶯衫}}) was the formal clothing for students during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies.<ref name="Aengsam">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=580178&categoryId=1646 "Aengsam"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> If the highest-scoring student was young, the king awarded him with red-colored Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> It was similar to the [[Panling Lanshan|namsam]] ({{Korean|hangul=난삼|hanja=襴衫}}) but with a different colour.<ref>{{Cite web|title=난삼(襴(幱)衫) - 한국민족문화대백과사전|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0011701|access-date=2021-05-09|website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref>


===Accessories===
[[File:Hanbok accessories.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} accessories]]

==== Binyeo ====

'''''[[Binyeo]]''''' or '''''Pinyeo''''' (Hangul: 비녀) was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different-shaped tip again depending on social status.<ref name="Binyeo">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1105813&categoryId=200000392 "Binyeo"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix-shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or [[Japanese apricot]] flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=36151&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)"], "C News041", 2012/04/17</ref> And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mhj21.com/9863|title=≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀|website=문화저널21|access-date=2019-03-26}}</ref>

====Daenggi====
'''''[[Daenggi]]''''' is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair.

====Norigae====

'''''[[Norigae]]''''' (Hangul: 노리개) was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks.<ref name="Norigae">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1076917&categoryId=200000392 "Norigae"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref><ref name=":14">{{Cite book|last=Yi|first=Kyŏng-ja|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/71358055|title=Norigae : splendor of the Korean Costume|date=2005|publisher=Ewha Womans University Press|others=Lee Jean Young|isbn=89-7300-618-5|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=12–13|oclc=71358055}}</ref> However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae.<ref name=":14" />

====Danghye====
'''''Danghye''''' or '''''Tanghye''''' (Hangul: 당혜) were shoes for married women in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Danghye">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=534624&categoryId=1646 "Danghye"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, [[pomegranates]], [[chrysanthemums]], or [[peonies]]: these were symbols of longevity.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=29559&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)"], "C News041", 2012/11/27</ref>

=====''Kunghye''=====
Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as '''''Kunghye''''' (Hangul: 궁혜), and they were usually patterned with flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

=====''Onhye''=====
Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as '''''Onhye''''' (Hangul: 온혜).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

== See also ==
{{Portal|Fashion}}
*[[List of Korean clothing]]
*[[Hanfu]] - a Chinese equivalent.
*[[Việt phục]] - a Vietnamese equivalent.
*[[Wafuku]] - a Japanese equivalent.

== Notes ==
{{reflist|group=note|30em}}

==Footnotes==
{{Reflist|30em}}

==References==
{{Refbegin}}
* An, Myung Sook (안명숙); Kim, Yong Ser (김용서) {{in lang|ko}} 1998. ''Hanʼguk poksiksa'' (한국복식사). Seoul. Yehaksa (예학사) {{ISBN|978-89-89668-11-4}}
* Kim, Ki Sun (김기선). {{in lang|ko}} 2005. [http://www.dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?pid=734&isid=33818&arid=710104&topMenu=&topMenu1= '' Information about Mongolian pigtail'' 몽골의 辮髮에 대하여]. The Institute of Asian Ethno-Forms and Culture. v. 5, 81-97
* Kim, Moon Ja {{in lang|ko}}, 2004. [http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 ''A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the Globalism''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110102004542/http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 |date=2 January 2011 }} (고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 7.1, 7-15
* Lee, Kyung-Ja (이경자) {{in lang|ko}}, 2003, [https://books.google.com/books?id=ZSjyNv61pT4C ''Uri ot ŭi chŏnt'ong yangsik'' (우리옷의 전통양식 The Traditional Style of Korean Clothes)] [[Ewha Womans University]] Press. {{ISBN|89-7300-514-6}}
*{{cite book|last= Levinson|first= David |title=Encyclopedia of modern Asia, Volume 2|publisher= Charles Scribner's Sons|pages= 120–121|year= 2002|isbn= 978-0-684-80617-4}}
* McCallion, Aleasha; Condra, Jill. 2008. ''[https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History]''. [[Greenwood Publishing Group]]. p. 221 - 228, {{ISBN|0-313-33664-4}}
* Nelson, Sarah. 1993. ''The archaeology of Korea''. [[Cambridge University Press]]. {{ISBN|0-521-40783-4}}
* You, Soon Lye (유순례) {{in lang|ko}} 2006, ''Comparative Research on the Costume Aesthetic Korean & Mongolia'' (몽골과 한국의 전통복식 미의식 비교에 대한 연구), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 6, 183-185
{{Refend}}

==External links==
*{{Commons category-inline}}
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-evolution Hanbok History Evolution]
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-infographic Hanbok History Infographic]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071113153646/http://myhome.naver.com/korean_dress/history1.htm History of Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071021095831/http://goldhanbok.com/data/data_kind.asp Information about Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm Traditional Korean Clothing] - Life in Korea
* [http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp Official Korea Tourism Organization - Hanbok Clothing] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161013070712/http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp |date=13 October 2016 }}

{{Folk costume}}
{{Timeline of clothing and fashion}}

[[Category:Korean culture]]
[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]

Haegeum

2023-04-02T00:09:01Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147709559 by John Yunshire (talk)

{{Short description|Korean string instrument}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:''Haegeum''}}
{{More citations needed|date=December 2015}}
{{Infobox Instrument
|name=''Haegeum''
|names=
|image=Haegeum.jpg
|classification=[[Bowed string instrument]]
|range=
|related=[[Erhu]], [[Erxian]]
}}
{{Infobox Korean name
|title=Korean name
|hangul={{linktext|해|금}}
|hanja={{linktext|奚|琴}}
|rr=haegeum
|mr=haegŭm
|tablewidth=208
|color=#FFEC8B
}}

The '''''haegeum''''' ({{korean|hangul=해금}}) is a traditional Korean [[string instrument]], resembling a vertical [[fiddle]] with two strings; derived from ''[[Xiqin (instrument)|xiqin]]'', traditional Instrument of [[Kumo Xi|Xi]] people, which was introduced in Goryeo Dynasty through Northern Song.<ref>[https://www.ntok.go.kr/Orchestra/Introduction/Instrument?type=G "해금"], National Orchestra of Korea(in Korean). Retrieved 2022-12-08.</ref> It has a rodlike neck, a hollow wooden soundbox, and two [[silk]] strings, and is held vertically on the knee of the performer and played with a bow. It is also popularly known as {{transl|ko|kkangkkang-i}} ({{lang|ko|깡깡이}}),<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=1161869&cid=40942&categoryId=33031|title=해금|work=Naver|access-date=2018-10-30|language=ko}}</ref> {{transl|ko|kkaengkkaeng-i}} ({{lang|ko|깽깽이}}), or {{transl|ko|aeng-geum}} ({{lang|ko|앵금}}).<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://app.gugakfm.co.kr/DataFiles/App/PDF/haegeum_kr_print.pdf|title=해금|website=우리악기 톺아보기 (Do it Gugak!)|language=ko|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200319030434/http://app.gugakfm.co.kr/DataFiles/App/PDF/haegeum_kr_print.pdf|archive-date=2020-03-19|url-status=dead|access-date=2018-10-30}}</ref>

The ''haegeum'' is one of the most widely used instruments in Korean music. The ''haegeum'' is used in court music as well as {{transl|ko|madangnori}} (ordinary people's music). The ''haegeum'''s range of expression is various despite having only two strings, with sounds ranging from sorrowful and sad to humorous. The ''haegeum'' is made using eight materials: metal, stone, silk, bamboo, gourd, clay, hide, and wood, and so it is called {{transl|ko|paleum}} (eight sounds).

[[File:Haegeum player.jpg|thumb|right|240px|Jung Su-nyun playing {{transl|ko|haegeum sanjo}}]]

The {{transl|ko|[[sohaegeum]]}} ({{lang|ko|소해금}}) is a modernized fiddle with four strings, used only in [[North Korea]] and in the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]] in China.<sup>[http://b2b.seoulrecords.co.kr/image_M/00005230002.jpg photo]{{Dead link|date=January 2020 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</sup>

The ''haegeum'' is a Korean musical instrument played with a wooden bow between two strings, standing in line with a large wooden block standing vertically on top of the ring box. The haegeum is also classified as a string instrument because it consists of two strings made of silk thread. However, it is classified as a wind instrument because it serves as a wind instrument that can make a continuous sound using a bow. <ref>{{Cite web |url=http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=3554789&cid=58160&categoryId=58160 |title=해금 |access-date=2018-04-04 |archive-date=2017-11-13 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171113050413/http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=3554789&cid=58160&categoryId=58160 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The ''haegeum'' has a unique tone, so it is characterized by a unique tone rather than matching with other wind or string instruments.<ref>{{Cite web|title=해금 - 문화콘텐츠닷컴|url=https://www.culturecontent.com/content/contentView.do?search_div_id=CP_THE008&cp_code=cp0310&index_id=cp03100097&content_id=cp031000970001&search_left_menu=3|access-date=2021-06-02|website=www.culturecontent.com}}</ref>

== History ==
There are no records about the exact era when the ''haegeum'' was first introduced in Korea. According to several sources, references to the ''haegeum'' can be found in {{transl|ko|hanlimbyeolgok}} (the unrhymed verse and songs of the royal scholars) made in the [[Goryeo]] dynasty, so it can be inferred that the ''haegeum'' has been played at least since then.

In the [[Joseon Dynasty]], the ''haegeum'' was used in various music: that of royal ancestral rites, parades, festivals, and {{transl|ko|hyangak}} (Korean music).

The way the ''haegeum'' is played changed dramatically since the Joseon Dynasty. Before middle Joseon period, musicians played the string in {{transl|ko|gyeong-an}} method (placing and stopping with no pulling on strings like western bowed-string instrument), but since then they have begun to play in {{transl|ko|yeok-an}} method (pulling the string). Accordingly, it is possible to make a wide variety of sounds by pulling and releasing strings since it has no fingerboard.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=2082571&cid=60477&categoryId=60477|script-title=ko:해금|access-date=2018-08-26|language=ko}}</ref>

To improve the acoustic ability of the ''haegeum'', various modifications have been introduced since the 1960s. In 1965, Park Hun-bong and Kim Bun-gi developed a low-tune Haegeum, and in 1967 Kim Gisu made a small ''haegeum''.<ref>장악원, 우주의 선율을 담다, 송지원 지음</ref>

==See also==
*[[Erhu]]
*[[Huqin]]
*[[Kokyū]]
*[[Korean music]]
*[[Traditional Korean musical instruments]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

== External links ==
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20090614065633/http://music.cein.or.kr/j4.htm Haegum photo]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20171201082220/http://www.ktpaa.org/ Traditional Korean Instruments]

{{huqin}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Korean musical instruments]]
[[Category:Huqin family instruments]]

Wonsam

2023-04-02T00:06:57Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147709641 by John Yunshire (talk)

{{Short description|Female ceremonial topcoat in hanbok}}
{{Infobox Korean name
|img=Korean.costume-Wonsam-for.Queen.Joseon-01.jpg
|imgwidth=180
|caption=''Hwangwonsam'' (Yellow wonsam)
|hangul=원삼
|hanja=圓衫
|rr=wonsam
|mr=wonsam
}}
The '''''wonsam''''' is a female ceremonial [[Overcoat|topcoat]] in ''[[hanbok]]''. It was worn by queens, high-ranking court ladies, and royalty during the [[Joseon dynasty]] of [[Korea]] (1392–1910).<ref name="Life in Korea">{{cite web|url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official |title=Official/Court clothing |publisher=Life in Korea}}</ref> It is also called ''''daeui'''' (大衣, big clothing), ''''daesu'''' (大袖, wide sleeves) and ''''jangsam'''' (長衫, long clothing).<ref name="Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=176186&v=44 |script-title=ko:원삼 (圓衫) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |language=Korean}}</ref> The queen, princess consort, and consort to the first son of the crown prince wore it as a ''soryebok'', a robe for small ceremonies, while wives of high officers and ''[[sanggung]]'' (court matrons) wore it as ''daeryebok'', a robe for major ceremonies.<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=249325&v=42 |script-title=ko:원삼 (圓衫) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[EncyKorea]] |language=Korean}}</ref> It was also worn by commoners on their wedding ceremony.<ref name=":0" />

== Origins and development ==

=== Origins ===
The wonsam is commonly known to have been introduced from [[China (disambiguation)|China]] and is believed that the clothing of the [[Tang dynasty]] introduced in the Unified Three Kingdom periods of Korea was localized.<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Nam|first=Min-yi|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123|archive-url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.pdf|archive-date=2000}}</ref><ref>[https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/2638 원삼(圓衫)], Encyclopedia of Korean folk culture.</ref> Since then, it has become part of the Korean national customs.<ref name=":0" />

According to Hong Nayoung, the wonsam is also hypothesized to have originated from another garment called dansam (unlined jacket), which was used in early Joseon and adopted from China.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Hong |first=Nayoung |title=원삼 ( 圓衫 ) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7132 |access-date=2022-04-02 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture |language=ko}}</ref><ref name=":3">{{Cite web |last=Hong |first=Nayoung |title=원삼(圓衫) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/7132 |access-date=2022-04-02 |website=한국민속대백과사전 [Encyclopedia of Korean Folk culture] |language=ko}}</ref> The Chinese Ming dynasty bestowed the ceremonial attire and daily clothings to the Joseon queens from the reign of King Munjong to the reign of King Seonjo whenever a new king was enthroned; the bestowed clothing included [[Ru (upper garment)|o]] (襖), [[Ruqun|gun]] (裙), and dansam.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3" /> The bestowed dansam was initially worn by the queen as a form of daily clothing and was also referred as wonsam occasionally; later on, the term wonsam became the fixed name for the garment.<ref name=":2" />

=== Development ===
Throughout the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]], the form and shape of the wonsam evolved with time. The formative characteristics of the wonsam can be divided into four stages:<ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Lim|first1=Hyunjoo|last2=Cho|first2=Hyosook|date=2013|title=A Study on the Periodic Characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty|url=http://koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201310635656201.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=63|issue=2|pages=29–44|doi=10.7233/jksc.2013.63.2.029|issn=1229-6880|doi-access=free}}</ref>

# '''15th–16th century AD wonsam:''' the wonsam in this period included the a [[Round collar robe|danryeong]]-shaped wonsam, a form of wonsam which was similar to the [[Round collar robe|danryeong]] and included danryeong collars, side pleats (called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight sleeves in the shape of cylinders and a belt which was tied with the wonsam.<ref name=":1" />
# '''Early 17th – Mid 17th century AD wonsam''' (which also be referred as the '''''transitional wonsam'''''): it was a complex combination of the danryeong and what is known as wonsam; during this period, many forms and shapes were developed in short period of time.<ref name=":1" /> This transitional wonsam was a stepping-stone to the late development of the wonsam in the later years.<ref name=":1" />
# '''Mid 17th century AD wonsam – 19th century wonsam''': The shape of the wonsam became more stable; during this period, the wonsam had collars which faced each other, and big and wide sleeves with stripes of multiple colours.<ref name=":1" /> It also featured ''hansam'' (i.e. a curve-edge side seams) and side pleats (moo) without any multiple inner folds.<ref name=":1" /> The clothing also changed from single-layered to double layeres, and new colours such as dark blue to green colour appeared.<ref name=":1" />
# '''Late 19th to 20th century AD wonsam''': The characteristics and fabrics used in the wonsam became more standard, and there were now two types of wonsam: (1) the ceremonial robe used in court, and (2) the wonsam used by commoners as ceremonial robe on their wedding.<ref name=":1" />

== Design and construction ==
The color and decorations of the garment around the chest, shoulders and back represent the wearer's rank.<ref name="Life in Korea" /> For example, the colour yellow was used for the wonsam of empresses, red for queens, ''jajeok'' (紫赤 ''magenta'') for concubines and princess consorts, and green for princesses and women of the noble ''[[yangban]]'' class.<ref name="EncyKorea" /><ref name="Doosan">{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?masterno=120315&contentno=120315 |script-title=ko:원삼 (圓衫) |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |language=Korean}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/853455231|title=Color and design|date=2012|publisher=Berg Publishers|others=Marilyn Revell DeLong, Barbara Martinson|isbn=978-1-84788-953-9|location=London|oclc=853455231}}</ref> After being popularised by royalty, commoners were granted permission to wear wonsam at weddings only,<ref name="shim">{{cite book|title=우리옷 만들기|trans-title=Making our clothes|language=Korean|last1=Shim|first1=Hwa-jin|author-link=Shim Hwa-jin|publisher=Sungshin Women's University Press|location=Seoul|date=2004|page=194}}</ref> only the green wonsam.<ref name="Life in Korea" />

Varieties of silk were used as the fabric. Wonsam for winter were made with ''dan'' (緞), a thick [[silk]] with a glossy surface formed with a [[satin weave]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=122829&v=43 |script-title=ko:단 (緞) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |language=Korean}}</ref> and wonsam for summer were made with ''sa'' (紗), a loosely woven silk.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=277502&v=42 |script-title=ko:사 (紗) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[EncyKorea]] |language=Korean}}</ref>

Unlike the ''[[po (clothing)|po]]'', an indigenous Korean overcoat with narrow sleeves, the wonsam was based on women’s half-sleeve [[round collar robe]] that was worn in 15th century.{{Verification needed|date=May 2021}} After the [[Qing invasion of Joseon]], its sleeves have gotten longer and wider.{{Verification needed|date=May 2021}} As an adaptation from the original model, the wonsam gradually evolved into a distinctive form characteristic of traditional Korean clothing.<ref name="Doosan" />

== Modern use ==
Today the wonsam is worn primarily in representations of Joseon royal ceremonies and as a wedding garment, and in a much simplified version when performing traditional Korean dances.<ref>[http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm Hanbok] Korean Overseas Information Service</ref><ref>[http://eng.pusanminsok.or.kr/autocart/market/main/detail.php?con_item_no=210 Dongnae Gomu(Dongnae Drum Dance)] Busan Folklore Conservation Association</ref>

== Gallery ==
<gallery>
File:Korea-Hanbok-Queen-01.jpg|''Nokwonsam'' (green wonsam) for a princess<ref>[http://www.dynamic-korea.com/culture/view.php?main=MOV&sub=&uid=200600058659 Traditional Korean Wedding Dress to be Exhibited at Smithsonian Museum]</ref>
File:Korea-Hanbok-Queen-02.jpg|''Nokwonsam'' exhibited at [[Asian Art Museum of San Francisco]]
File:Korean.dance-Taepyeongmu-01.jpg|Dancers in ''wonsam'' performing a [[Korean dance]], ''[[Taepyeongmu]]''
</gallery>

== See also ==
*[[Dangui]]
*[[Gache]]
*[[Hwarot]]
*[[List of Korean clothing]]

== References ==
{{Commons category}}
{{Reflist}}

[[Category:Joseon dynasty]]
[[Category:Korean clothing]]

Hanbok

2023-04-01T08:48:03Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147475885 by John Yunshire (talk)

Geomungo

2023-04-01T08:47:33Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147475912 by John Yunshire (talk)

Durumagi

2023-04-01T08:46:58Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147475871 by John Yunshire (talk)

{{Short description|A Korean overcoat with no back or side vents}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2022}}

{{Infobox Korean name
|img=
|imgwidth=
|caption= [[Joseon Dynasty]] man in ''durumagi''
|hangul=두루마기|루마기· 주막의· 주차의· 주의
|hanja=周莫衣· 周遮衣· 周衣
|rr=Durumagi / Jumagui / Juchaui / Juui
|mr=Turumagi / Chumagi / Chuch'ai / Chui
|title=Durumagi}}

'''{{Transliteration|ko|Durumagi}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=closed all around}}), also '''{{Transliteration|ko|jumagui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주막의|hanja=周莫衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juchaui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주차의|hanja=周遮衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주의|hanja=周衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}),<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=두루마기 |trans-title=Durumagi |url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1084903&categoryId=32079 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220321172804/https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?docId=1084903&cid=40942&categoryId=32079 |archive-date=21 March 2022 |access-date=21 March 2022 |website=Doosan Encyclopedia |language=ko}}</ref> is a variety of {{Transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}, or [[overcoat]], in {{Transliteration|ko|[[hanbok]]}}, the Korean traditional [[Clothing|garment]]. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over {{Transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (jacket) and {{Transliteration|ko|[[Baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants).<ref name=":9">{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=9788928902873 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}</ref>{{Rp|page=120}}

==History==
The origin of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} traces back to at least the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times.<ref>[http://www.grandculture.net/ko/Contents?dataType=99&contents_id=GC02002237 "두루마기-한국향토문화전자대"], The Digital Local Culture Encyclopedia of Korea</ref><ref>[https://namu.wiki/w/%EB%91%90%EB%A3%A8%EB%A7%88%EA%B8%B0 "두루마기-나무위키"], Namuwiki</ref><ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wang |first1=Bo|title=唐会要新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla |date=961 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%94%90%E6%9C%83%E8%A6%81/%E5%8D%B7095 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wei |first1=Shou |title=魏书百济 Book of Wei – Baekje |date=551–554 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/zh/%E9%AD%8F%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7100 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Wang |first1=Qinruo |title=冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975 |date=1013 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=69385|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>Korean historical academia considers that the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period.<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=두루마기 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0016977 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}}</ref>

The tomb murals from [[Goguryeo]] were primarily painted in two regions, [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]], which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.<ref name=":0222">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26 |quote=Goguryeo tomb murals were primarily painted in Jian集安 and Pyeongyang,平壤 the second and third capitals of the kingdom from the middle of the fourth century until the middle of the seventh, respectively. [...] They also display slightly different characteristics by region. For example, the morals and customs of Goguryeo are featured in murals found in Jian, while those in Pyeongyang show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty 202 BC-AD 220 in China, which governed the region for about four hundred years. This explains why we can see figures in Chinese-style dress in the latter.}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically the cultural influence of the [[Four Commanderies of Han|Han dynasty]], including figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.<ref name=":0222" />{{Rp|page=15}}
Yet Chinese-style clothes were limited to the Royal and Aristocratic attires, and It is considered that They wore Korean-style attires in normal times.<ref>[http://contents.history.go.kr/front/nh/view.do?levelId=nh_008_0070_0010 "의식주 생활-우라역사넷"], History Net of National Institute of Korean History</ref>

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:<ref>{{Cite web |title=두루마기 - 미주 한국일보 |url=http://m.koreatimes.com/article/20021209/104410 |access-date=2022-07-10 |website=m.koreatimes.com}}</ref>{{Text_and_translation
|한국 민족의 고유복식은 저고리와 바지, 두루마기로 돼 있다. 이런 복식은 북방 호복(胡服)계열로 바지를 착용했다는 것은 기마민족(騎馬民族)이었음을 의미한다는 것이다.
|The Korean people's indigenous attire consists of a [[jeogori]], [[baji (clothing)|baji]], and durumagi. The fact that [Korean] wore trousers in the northern [[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]] family means that [Korean] were a horse-riding people.
|
}}Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} ({{Lang-zh|c=龕神塚|labels=no}}), the ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by the owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb was red (or purple) in colour:<ref name=":2">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=16}}
{{Blockquote
|text=[The tomb of owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
|author=
}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=16}} The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.<ref name="durumagi nate">{{in lang|ko}} [http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45 Durumagi] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610003154/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45|date=10 June 2011}} at [[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] Encyclopedia</ref>

=== Goryeo ===
During the [[Goryeo]] period, Mongolian influences caused the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' to change in appearance.<ref name="durumagi nate" /> Not only was the waist belt changed into a {{Transliteration|ko|[[Hanbok#Jeogori|goreum]]}}, the traditional ''{{Transliteration|ko|po}}'''s short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, {{Transliteration|mn|xurumakci}}, of which the name ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' is said to be derived.<ref name="durumagi mongol">Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), ''Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁)'', 1999, p.58 [http://www.hangilsa.co.kr/main/main.php Hangilsa], Paju. {{ISBN|89-356-5146-X}}</ref>

=== Joseon period ===
During the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]], the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]] promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.<ref name="gapsin reforms">{{in lang|ko}}[http://100.naver.com/100.nhn?docid=4781 Gapsin Clothing Reform] at [[Doosan Encyclopedia]]</ref> However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the [[Gabo Reform]] of 1894, that the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' became common as formal attire.<ref name="durumagi nate" />

== Construction and design ==
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is an overcoat, which is closed all around,<ref name=":1" /> lacking side and back vents.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}} It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}}

Different fabrics and materials are used in making ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'': [[calico]], wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; [[ramie]], fine [[ramie]] and silk [[gauze]] for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.<ref name=":1" /> White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.<ref name="modern durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://biz.heraldm.com/common/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100208000607 New ''hanbok''], Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010</ref>

== Types of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} ==
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok-Joseon period-02.jpg|thumb|Blue {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by female model, white {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by male model]]
[[File:A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.jpg|thumb|100px|left|A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.]]
There are various types of which include: {{Transliteration|ko|hotedan durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=홑단 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=single-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|gyup durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=겹 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=double-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|som durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=솜 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=cotton durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|[[kkachi durumagi]]}} ({{Korean|hangul=까치 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=magpie durumagi}}) or {{Transliteration|ko|obangjang durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=오방장 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=five-colours durumagi}}) for children.<ref name="kkachi durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://culturedic.daum.net/dictionary_content.asp?Dictionary_Id=10019235&mode=content&query=%C1%B6%BC%B1%BD%C3%B4%EB+%B3%B2%BE%C6%C0%C7+%C0%C7%BA%B9+2+%2D+%BF%C0%B9%E6%C0%E5%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&dircode=0 ''Obangjang durumagi''] from [[Daum Communications]] and Korea Culture & Content Agency</ref>

During the [[Goryeo]]-era, a unique type of armor, called Durumagi ({{Hangul|두루마기}}, {{Hanja|逢掖}}) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref> They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a ''hohaeg'' (({{Hangul|호액}})({{Hanja|護項}})) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.<ref name=gap>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref>

{{Clear}}

== Modern use ==
[[File:APEC2005 Hanbok.jpg|thumb|2005 APEC World leaders in colourful {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}|left|164x164px]]
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://bntnews.hankyung.com/apps/news?popup=0&nid=02&c1=02&c2=02&c3=00&nkey=201002112200543&mode=sub_view ''Durumagi'' a must], bnt news 14 February 2010</ref> but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 [[Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation|APEC]] Summit in [[Busan]].<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://www.cbs.co.kr/Nocut/Show.asp?IDX=111007 Leaders in ''durumagi''], Nocut News 25 November 2005</ref>

{{Clear}}

==See also==
*[[Dopo (clothing)|Dopo]]
*[[Dragon robe|Gonryongpo]]
*[[Hanbok]]
*[[Jeonbok]]
*[[Kkachi durumagi]]
*[[Po (clothing)|Po]]
*[[Sagyusam]]

==References==
{{reflist}}
*{{cite news|url=http://koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/news/article/article.aspx?aid=2875224 |title=Clothing with stories of fertility and faith |publisher=[[JoongAng Daily]] |date=7 May 2007 |author=Lee Ho-jeong}}

==External links==
{{Commons}}
* [https://www.museum.go.kr/site/eng/relic/represent/view?relicId=2587 Owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb wearing a purple (or red) {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}] from the National Museum of Korea
* [http://www.heritage.go.kr Korea National Heritage online] from the Cultural Heritage Administration
* {{in lang|ko}} [https://web.archive.org/web/20091226031829/http://user.chollian.net/~kjg0520/frame1.htm Hanbok Story]

[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Jackets]]

Haegeum

2023-04-01T08:46:25Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1147475874 by John Yunshire (talk)

Durumagi

2023-03-04T13:18:52Z

182.225.106.69:

Durumagi

2023-03-04T13:16:31Z

182.225.106.69: Except Samuel Lee's document, No other documents claiming that Durumagi originated from China can be found. It can be possible that Durumagi was influenced by China, but No definite data that Durumagi originated from China has not been confirmed yet.

{{Short description|A Korean overcoat with no back or side vents}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2022}}

{{Infobox Korean name
|img=
|imgwidth=
|caption= [[Joseon Dynasty]] man in ''durumagi''
|hangul=두루마기|루마기· 주막의· 주차의· 주의
|hanja=周莫衣· 周遮衣· 周衣
|rr=Durumagi / Jumagui / Juchaui / Juui
|mr=Turumagi / Chumagi / Chuch'ai / Chui
|title=Durumagi}}

'''{{Transliteration|ko|Durumagi}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=closed all around}}), also '''{{Transliteration|ko|jumagui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주막의|hanja=周莫衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juchaui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주차의|hanja=周遮衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주의|hanja=周衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}),<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=두루마기 |trans-title=Durumagi |url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1084903&categoryId=32079 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220321172804/https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?docId=1084903&cid=40942&categoryId=32079 |archive-date=21 March 2022 |access-date=21 March 2022 |website=Doosan Encyclopedia |language=ko}}</ref> is a variety of {{Transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}, or [[overcoat]], in {{Transliteration|ko|[[hanbok]]}}, the Korean traditional [[Clothing|garment]]. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over {{Transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (jacket) and {{Transliteration|ko|[[Baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants).<ref name=":9">{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=9788928902873 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}</ref>{{Rp|page=120}}

==History==
The origin of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} traces back to at least the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times.<ref>[http://www.grandculture.net/ko/Contents?dataType=99&contents_id=GC02002237 "두루마기-한국향토문화전자대"], The Digital Local Culture Encyclopedia of Korea</ref><ref>[https://namu.wiki/w/%EB%91%90%EB%A3%A8%EB%A7%88%EA%B8%B0 "두루마기-나무위키"], Namuwiki</ref><ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wang |first1=Bo|title=唐会要新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla |date=961 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%94%90%E6%9C%83%E8%A6%81/%E5%8D%B7095 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wei |first1=Shou |title=魏书百济 Book of Wei – Baekje |date=551–554 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/zh/%E9%AD%8F%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7100 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Wang |first1=Qinruo |title=冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975 |date=1013 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=69385|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>Korean Historical Academia considers that the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period.<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=두루마기 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0016977 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}}</ref>

The tomb murals from [[Goguryeo]] were primarily painted in two regions, [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]], which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.<ref name=":0222">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26 |quote=Goguryeo tomb murals were primarily painted in Jian集安 and Pyeongyang,平壤 the second and third capitals of the kingdom from the middle of the fourth century until the middle of the seventh, respectively. [...] They also display slightly different characteristics by region. For example, the morals and customs of Goguryeo are featured in murals found in Jian, while those in Pyeongyang show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty 202 BC-AD 220 in China, which governed the region for about four hundred years. This explains why we can see figures in Chinese-style dress in the latter.}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically the cultural influence of the [[Four Commanderies of Han|Han dynasty]], including figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.<ref name=":0222" />{{Rp|page=15}}
Yet Chinese-style clothes were limited to the Royal and Aristocratic attires, and It is considered that They wore Korean-style attires in normal times.<ref>[http://contents.history.go.kr/front/nh/view.do?levelId=nh_008_0070_0010 "의식주 생활-우라역사넷"], History Net of National Institute of Korean History</ref>

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:<ref>{{Cite web |title=두루마기 - 미주 한국일보 |url=http://m.koreatimes.com/article/20021209/104410 |access-date=2022-07-10 |website=m.koreatimes.com}}</ref>{{Text_and_translation
|한국 민족의 고유복식은 저고리와 바지, 두루마기로 돼 있다. 이런 복식은 북방 호복(胡服)계열로 바지를 착용했다는 것은 기마민족(騎馬民族)이었음을 의미한다는 것이다.
|The Korean people's indigenous attire consists of a [[jeogori]], [[baji (clothing)|baji]], and durumagi. The fact that [Korean] wore trousers in the northern [[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]] family means that [Korean] were a horse-riding people.
|
}}Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} ({{Lang-zh|c=龕神塚|labels=no}}), the ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by the owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb was red (or purple) in colour:<ref name=":2">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=16}}
{{Blockquote
|text=[The tomb of owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
|author=
}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=16}} The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.<ref name="durumagi nate">{{in lang|ko}} [http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45 Durumagi] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610003154/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45|date=10 June 2011}} at [[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] Encyclopedia</ref>

=== Goryeo ===
During the [[Goryeo]] period, Mongolian influences caused the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' to change in appearance.<ref name="durumagi nate" /> Not only was the waist belt changed into a {{Transliteration|ko|[[Hanbok#Jeogori|goreum]]}}, the traditional ''{{Transliteration|ko|po}}'''s short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, {{Transliteration|mn|xurumakci}}, of which the name ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' is said to be derived.<ref name="durumagi mongol">Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), ''Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁)'', 1999, p.58 [http://www.hangilsa.co.kr/main/main.php Hangilsa], Paju. {{ISBN|89-356-5146-X}}</ref>

=== Joseon period ===
During the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]], the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]] promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.<ref name="gapsin reforms">{{in lang|ko}}[http://100.naver.com/100.nhn?docid=4781 Gapsin Clothing Reform] at [[Doosan Encyclopedia]]</ref> However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the [[Gabo Reform]] of 1894, that the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' became common as formal attire.<ref name="durumagi nate" />

== Construction and design ==
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is an overcoat, which is closed all around,<ref name=":1" /> lacking side and back vents.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}} It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}}

Different fabrics and materials are used in making ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'': [[calico]], wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; [[ramie]], fine [[ramie]] and silk [[gauze]] for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.<ref name=":1" /> White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.<ref name="modern durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://biz.heraldm.com/common/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100208000607 New ''hanbok''], Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010</ref>

== Types of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} ==
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok-Joseon period-02.jpg|thumb|Blue {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by female model, white {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by male model]]
[[File:A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.jpg|thumb|100px|left|A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.]]
There are various types of which include: {{Transliteration|ko|hotedan durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=홑단 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=single-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|gyup durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=겹 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=double-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|som durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=솜 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=cotton durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|[[kkachi durumagi]]}} ({{Korean|hangul=까치 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=magpie durumagi}}) or {{Transliteration|ko|obangjang durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=오방장 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=five-colours durumagi}}) for children.<ref name="kkachi durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://culturedic.daum.net/dictionary_content.asp?Dictionary_Id=10019235&mode=content&query=%C1%B6%BC%B1%BD%C3%B4%EB+%B3%B2%BE%C6%C0%C7+%C0%C7%BA%B9+2+%2D+%BF%C0%B9%E6%C0%E5%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&dircode=0 ''Obangjang durumagi''] from [[Daum Communications]] and Korea Culture & Content Agency</ref>

During the [[Goryeo]]-era, a unique type of armor, called Durumagi ({{Hangul|두루마기}}, {{Hanja|逢掖}}) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref> They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a ''hohaeg'' (({{Hangul|호액}})({{Hanja|護項}})) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.<ref name=gap>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref>

{{Clear}}

== Modern use ==
[[File:APEC2005 Hanbok.jpg|thumb|2005 APEC World leaders in colourful {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}|left|164x164px]]
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://bntnews.hankyung.com/apps/news?popup=0&nid=02&c1=02&c2=02&c3=00&nkey=201002112200543&mode=sub_view ''Durumagi'' a must], bnt news 14 February 2010</ref> but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 [[Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation|APEC]] Summit in [[Busan]].<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://www.cbs.co.kr/Nocut/Show.asp?IDX=111007 Leaders in ''durumagi''], Nocut News 25 November 2005</ref>

{{Clear}}

==See also==
*[[Dopo (clothing)|Dopo]]
*[[Dragon robe|Gonryongpo]]
*[[Hanbok]]
*[[Jeonbok]]
*[[Kkachi durumagi]]
*[[Po (clothing)|Po]]
*[[Sagyusam]]

==References==
{{reflist}}
*{{cite news|url=http://koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/news/article/article.aspx?aid=2875224 |title=Clothing with stories of fertility and faith |publisher=[[JoongAng Daily]] |date=7 May 2007 |author=Lee Ho-jeong}}

==External links==
{{Commons}}
* [https://www.museum.go.kr/site/eng/relic/represent/view?relicId=2587 Owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb wearing a purple (or red) {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}] from the National Museum of Korea
* [http://www.heritage.go.kr Korea National Heritage online] from the Cultural Heritage Administration
* {{in lang|ko}} [https://web.archive.org/web/20091226031829/http://user.chollian.net/~kjg0520/frame1.htm Hanbok Story]

[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Jackets]]

Hanbok

2023-02-02T03:34:44Z

182.225.106.69: Restored contents accidentally deleted

{{Short description|Traditional Korean clothing}}
{{distinguish|Hanfu}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}}
{{Italic title}}{{Infobox clothing type|title=Hanbok|material=Diverse|location=Present-day [[North Korea]], [[South Korea]], [[Manchuria]]|image_file=[[File:Hanbok (female and male).jpg|Hanbok (female and male)|150px]]|caption=Typical designs of hanbok, traditional Korean dress|introduced=At least since [[Goguryeo]] period}}{{Infobox transliteration
| skhangul = {{linktext|한복}}
| skhanja = {{linktext|韓服}}
| skrr = Hanbok
| skmr = Hanbok
| nkhangul = {{linktext|조선옷}}
| nkhanja = {{linktext|朝鮮}}옷
| nkrr = Joseon-ot
| nkmr = Chosŏn-ot
| ibox-order =
| c =
| altname =
| l = Korean (ethnic) clothing
}}
The '''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=한복|hanja=韓服|rr=hanbok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=[[Koreans|Korean]] clothing}}; term used in [[South Korean standard language|South Korea]]), also called '''{{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮服|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) is traditional Korean clothing. It is worn not only by South and [[North Korea]], but also by the [[Koreans in China|joseon-jok]] (Korean-Chinese), a minority group in [[China]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zang |first=Yingchun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/57675221 |title=Zhongguo shao shu min zu fu shi |last2= |date=2007 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |others=臧迎春. |isbn=978-7-5085-0379-0 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |oclc=57675221}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title={{!}} Minority Ethnic Clothing : Korean (Chaoxianzu) Clothing |url=http://baoku.gmu.edu/exhibits/show/minority-ethnic-clothing/korean-clothing |access-date=2022-08-23 |website=baoku.gmu.edu}}</ref> The term {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} literally means “Korean clothing.”<ref>Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea</ref> Due to the isolation from each other for about 50 years, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in [[South Korea]], North Korea, and joseonjok, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}<ref name=":24" /> Since the 1990s, the South Korean-style and the North Korean-style have been looking more and more similar to each other.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=In-Woo |date=2006 |title=Change in Hanbok of South and North Korea after the Division and the Interexchange -Focusing on Women's Jeogori- |url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200612842609717.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles |volume=30 |issue=1 |pages=106–114 |issn=1225-1151}}</ref> Similarly, since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in joseonjok-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the joseonjok-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South-Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

Earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the [[Yemaek|Proto-Koreanic people]] of what is now [[Geography of North Korea|northern Korea]] and [[Manchuria]]; it can also be found in the arts of the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals of the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD,<ref>The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> where the basic structure of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was established at least since this period. The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consisted of a {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top), {{transliteration|ko|[[baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants), {{transliteration|ko|[[Chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt), and the ''{{transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}'' (coat). The basic structure of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of [[Korean shamanism|Mu-ism]].<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500|title=Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique|date=2021|publisher=Springer|others=Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek|isbn=978-3-030-32865-8|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=125|oclc=1253353500}}</ref> These basic structural features of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} remains relatively unchanged to this day. However, present-day {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, which is worn nowadays, is patterned after the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} worn in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]],<ref name=":16" /> especially those worn by the nobility and royalty.<ref name=":7">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927 |title=Passport to Korean culture. |date=2009 |publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-153-2 |edition=2009 |location=Seoul, Korea |oclc=680802927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last=Gwak |first=Sung Youn Sonya |title=Be(com)ing Korean in the United States: Exploring Ethnic Identity Formation Through Cultural Practices |publisher=[[Cambria Press]] |year=2006 |isbn=9781621969723}}</ref> In the past, however, commoners ({{transliteration|ko|seomin}}), were not allowed to wear what is now known as {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} and instead wore {{transliteration|ko|[[minbok]]}} (clothing of commoners) which was typically white or off-white in colours; the commoners were only allowed to wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} on their wedding day and on special occasions.<ref name=":7" />{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8" /><ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Lopez Velazquez |first=Laura |date=2021 |title=Hanbok during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasty |url=https://www.korea.net/TalkTalkKorea/Korean/community/community/CMN0000009345 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=www.korea.net}}</ref> The extensive use of white clothing among the commoners lead to Korea being referred as "dressed people of white".<ref name=":10" /> Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean [[Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism]] established "{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} Day" to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=쿠키뉴스 |date=2014-09-15 |title=한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다 |url=http://www.kukinews.com/newsView/kuk201409150150 |access-date=2022-03-11 |website=쿠키뉴스 |language=ko}}</ref>

== Etymology ==
The first recorded evidence of the name ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' is from an 1881 document {{transliteration|ko|Jeongchiilgi}}《{{Korean|hangul=정치일기|labels=no}}》.<ref name=":52">역사 속의 우리 옷 변천사, 2009, Chonnam National University Press</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=김여경|date=2010|title=2000년 이후 인쇄매체에 나타난 한복의 조형미 연구|url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=DIKO0011925322|access-date=2021-07-24|website=ScienceON|language=KO}}</ref> In the document, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese traditional clothing and Western clothing. ''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' was used in an 1895 document describing the assassination of [[Empress Myeongseong]] to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese clothing. The origin of the name remains unclear, because these documents predate the [[Korean Empire]] ({{Korean|hangul=대한제국}}) which popularized the [[hanja]] character {{transliteration|ko|Han}} ({{Hanja|韓}})''.''

Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character ''{{transliteration|ko|Han}}'' ({{Hanja|韓}}) in words that describe Korean clothing, such as {{Transliteration|ko|hanguguibok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국의복}}), {{Transliteration|ko|hangugyebok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국예복}}) and {{Transliteration|ko|daehannyeobok}} ({{Korean|hangul=대한녀복}}). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article, which described the [[righteous army]] wearing Korean clothing. After the [[March 1st Movement]], ''hanbok'' became a significant ethnic symbol of Koreans.

Influenced by rising nationalism in the 1900s, ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' became a word that meant the unique Korean clothing that can be distinguished from that of foreigners, such as Japanese, Western, and Chinese clothing. Other words with the same meaning, {{Transliteration|ko|uriot}} ({{Korean|hangul=우리옷}}) and {{Transliteration|ko|joseonot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷}}), were concurrently used. {{Transliteration|ko|Joseonot}}, which was more popular in the north, replaced the other words in North Korea after the [[division of Korea]].

==Construction and design==
[[File:Hanbok scheme.svg|thumb|{{ubl|A diagram of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'s anatomy|1. {{transliteration|ko|hwajang}}|2. {{transliteration|ko|godae}}|3. {{transliteration|ko|somae buri}}|4. {{transliteration|ko|somae}}|5. {{transliteration|ko|goreum}}|6. {{transliteration|ko|u}}|7. {{transliteration|ko|doryeon}}|8, 11. {{transliteration|ko|jindong}}|9. {{transliteration|ko|gil}}|10. {{transliteration|ko|baerae}}|12. {{transliteration|ko|git}}|13. {{transliteration|ko|dongjeong}}}}]]

Traditionally, women's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of the {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top) and the {{transliteration|ko|[[chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt). The ensemble is often known as {{transliteration|ko|'[[chima jeogori]]'}}. Men's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and loose fitting {{transliteration|ko|baji}} (trousers).<ref name="KBS">{{cite web |url=http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |title=Traditional clothing |publisher=[[KBS (Korea)|KBS Global]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080317124313/http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |archive-date=2008-03-17 }}</ref> On top of this ensemble, there are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats. For men, some examples are {{transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}}, {{transliteration|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}}, Danryeong-ui, Joong-chimak, Sochang-ui, Daechang-ui, etc. For women, there are Jang-sam, Dan-sam, [[Wonsam|Won-sam]], and more.

==={{transliteration|ko|Jeogori}}===
The {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is the basic upper garment of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.<ref name="Doosan">{{cite web |url=http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090315034024/http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |archive-date=2009-03-15 }}</ref><ref name="HanbokBritannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=183581&v=47 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko}}</ref> The basic form of a {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} consists of ''gil'', ''git'', ''dongjeong'', ''goreum'' and sleeves. ''Gil'' ([[Hangul]]: 길) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and ''git'' ([[Hangul]]: 깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. ''Dongjeong'' ([[Hangul]]: 동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the ''git'' and is generally squared off. The ''goreum'' ([[Hangul]]: 고름) are fabric-strings that tie the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name="KBS" /> Women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} may have ''kkeutdong'' ([[Hangul]]: 끝동), a different colored [[cuff]] placed at the end of the sleeves. There are two {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} artifacts that may be the earliest surviving archaeological artifact. One from a [[Yangcheon Heo clan]] tomb is dated 1400–1450,<ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand">{{cite web |url=http://www.jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224210339/https://jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |url-status=dead |archive-date=24 February 2021 |title=Jeogori Before 1910 |publisher=Gwangju Design Biennale |access-date=2009-06-27 }}</ref> while the other was discovered inside a statue of the Buddha at Sangwonsa Temple (presumably left as an offering) that has been dated to the 1460s.<ref name="Important Folklore Materials 219">{{cite web |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |title=Sejodaeuihoejangjeogori |publisher=Cultural Heritage Administration, South Korea |access-date=2009-06-27 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120216190456/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-16 }}</ref>
[[File:Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg|thumb|Jeogori and chima]]

The form of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} has changed over time.<ref name="Britannica" /> While men's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} remained relatively unchanged, women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} became dramatically shortened during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty, reaching its shortest length at the late 19th century. However, due to reformation efforts and practical reasons, late modern ''jeogori'' for women was longer than its earlier counterpart with its length still above the waistline There are various styles and types of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand" /> Contemporary {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} are presently designed with various lengths.

The early form of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is hypothesized to have originated or have been influenced by {{transliteration|ko|[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]}}, nomadic dress typically worn by northern nomadic people in Asia.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=김문자 |date=2004 |title=[논문]고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치 |trans-title=A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of te Hanbok on the Globalism |url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=NART56146983 |journal=韓服文化 = Journal of Korean Traditional Constume |language=KO |volume=7 |issue=1 |pages=7–15 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref>{{NoteTag|Hobok (pronounced Hufu in Chinese) was a term which referred to non-Chinese clothing in opposition to [[Hanfu]]; by definition, it does not only apply to nomadic clothing.}} Hobok characteristics of the ancient ''jeogori'' include: the closure on the front<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계2">{{cite journal |title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |volume=20(1) |pages=61–77 |doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61 |doi-access=free}}</ref> closing to the left side in Jwa-im (左袵, 좌임), narrow sleeves, and both men and women wearing trousers, even under chima.<ref name=":23">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=National Institute of Korean History}}</ref> There is also Hanbok that was influenced by a more tropical style in Southern parts of the Korean Peninsula which lacked trousers and had a one-piece style.<ref>{{Cite web |title=주호국 - 나무위키 |url=https://namu.wiki/w/%EC%A3%BC%ED%98%B8%EA%B5%AD |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=namu.wiki}}</ref>

Most modern {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is closed to the right which is a fashion trend from what is now mainland [[Ru (upper garment)|China.]] The closure of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} to the right is an imitation of [[Ru (upper garment)|Han Chinese jackets]],<ref name=":73">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/700141350 |title=Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011 |date=2010 |publisher=Réunion des musées nationaux |others=Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet |isbn=978-2-7118-5759-3 |location=Paris |pages=68 |language=fr |oclc=700141350 |quote="[...] la veste [[jeogori|chogori]] se ferme ensuite sur la droite à l'imitation des [[ru (upper garment)|vestes chinoises]]"}}</ref> this style of closure is called ''Woo-Yim'' ({{Korean|hangul=우임|hanja=右衽}}; {{Lang-zh|c=右衽|p=yòurèn}}) and originated in the [[Shang dynasty]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yu |first=Song-Ok |date=1980 |title=A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198020336527455.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=3 |pages=29–46 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref>

==== Goreum ====
Traditionally, there are many types of ''goreum. Goreum'' refers to strings of cloth that fasten clothes together. Fabric ''goreum'' were potentially used since [[Gojoseon]]. They were originally practical but often decorative. [[Silla]] had regulations against types of ''Dae'' (belts) and decorative ''goreum'' for each [[Bone-rank system|Golpoom]]. Southern parts of Korea, including [[Silla]], had a colorful ''goreum'' on the front of the neck, which influenced [[Yayoi period|Yayoi]] culture. Parts of [[Goguryeo]] style had a fabric ''goreum'' loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the ''jeogori'' was usually wrapped across the front, the outside ''goreum'' was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in [[Joseon|Joseon Dynasty]], the ''goreum'' slowly moved to the front of the ''jeogori''. In the 20th century, the ''goreum'' became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the ''jeogori'' and was coined the ''Ot-goreum.''

==== Danchu ====
Other than fabric strings, danchu (buttons) were also used. There are many types of danchu.<ref>{{Cite web |title=단추 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0013683 |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref> One example is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like [[Qing dynasty|Manchurian]] buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest).

===Chima===
''Chima'' refers to "skirt", and is also called ''sang'' ({{linktext|裳}}) or ''gun'' ({{linktext|裙}}) in [[hanja]].<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=268156&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture|EncyKorea]] |language=ko}}</ref><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=191326&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Britannica]] |language=ko}}</ref> The underskirt, or [[petticoat]] layer, is called ''sokchima''. ''Chima-malgi'' is the waistband that trims the top of the ''chima''. From [[Goguryeo]]<ref name="Doosan" /> to [[Joseon Dynasty|Joseon]] period, various styles of ''chima'' existed such as striped, pleated, patchworked, and [[Gore (segment)|gored]] skirts. ''Chima'' were typically made from rectangular panels that were [[pleat]]ed or [[gather (sewing)|gathered]] into the ''chima-malgi'' (waistband).<ref name="CHA">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials:117-23 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175740/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |archive-date=2012-02-27 |access-date=2010-01-07 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref> This waistband also had ''goreum'' strings for fastening the skirt around the body.<ref name="CHA2">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials: 229-1-4. Skirt belonging to a Jinju Ha clan woman, who died in 1646 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175748/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-27 |access-date=2010-01-07 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref>

==== Goguryeo ====
According to the murals of [[Goguryeo]] and an earthen toy excavated from the neighbourhood of [[Hwangnam-dong]], [[Gyeongju]], Goguryeo women usually wore the ''jeogori'' over the ''chima,'' covering the top of the chima.<ref name="Koreana">{{cite journal |url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html |title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development |author=Cho, Woo-hyun |publisher=Koreana |volume=9 |issue=3 }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle">{{cite web |url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷 |trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing |publisher=Korea the sense |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |archive-date=2012-03-02 }}</ref> One popular fashion was the A-line ''chima''.

==== Goryeo ====
Variety of chima was worn during the [[Goryeo]] dynasty.

==== Joseon ====
Variety of chima was worn during the [[Joseon]] dynasty.

==== Late modern period ====
''Sokchima'' was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added,<ref name="GoodPeople">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=2010-01-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507071544/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |archive-date=May 7, 2010 }}</ref> later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called ''Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima''.<ref name="GoodPeople2">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=2010-01-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507072422/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |archive-date=May 7, 2010 }}</ref> By the mid-20th century, some outer ''chima'' also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the ''jeogori''.<ref name="RecycleLACMARedSkirt">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/red-korean-skirt-chima_01.html |title=Recycle LACMA: Red Korean Skirt |date=June 2009 |publisher=Robert Fontenot |access-date=2010-01-07 }}</ref><ref name="RecycleLACMA">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/purple-korean-skirt-chima_01.html|title=Recycle LACMA: Purple Korean Skirt|date=June 2009|publisher=Robert Fontenot|access-date=2010-01-07}}</ref>

===Baji===
''[[Baji (clothing)|Baji]]'' refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the formal term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three kingdoms period]].<ref name="asia-planet.net">{{cite web|url=http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm|title=Korea Information|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140406184640/http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm|archive-date=6 April 2014|url-status=dead}}</ref> It functions as modern trousers do and the term ''baji'' is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants.

The ''baji-malgi'' is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of ''goreum''.

Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on.

===Po===
''[[Po (clothing)|Po]]'' is a generic term referring to an outer [[robe]] or [[overcoat]]. There are two general types of ''po'', the Korean type and the Chinese type.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

The Korean type is a common style from the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period, and it is used in the modern day.<ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture">{{cite web|url=http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=531496&cid=46671&categoryId=46671 |script-title=ko:포 (袍)|publisher=[[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture]] |access-date=2015-04-23 |language=ko}}</ref> There were many ways to fasten the coat but mainly a belt was used in conjunction with a ribbon ''goreum'' until the ribbon ''goreum'' became mainstream during late Joseon dynasty. ''[[Durumagi]]'' is a type of ''po'' that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over ''jeogori'' and ''baji''. It is also called ''jumagui'', ''juchaui'', or ''juui''.<ref name="EncyKorea" /><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica1">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=128263&v=45 |script-title=ko:두루마기 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-30 |language=ko}}</ref>

The Chinese type consist of different types of ''po'' from mainland China. Starting from the [[Northern and Southern States period|North–South states period]], they were mainly adopted as court uniforms that localized into Korean culture throughout history. In 1895, there was a nation-wide adoption of the Korean type ''durumagi'' to regulate clothes and luxury items.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

<gallery>
File:King Taejo Yi 02.jpg|''[[Dragon robe]]'' (or ikseongwanpo): business attire for king
File:Portrait of King Yeongjo - Chae Yong Shin (蔡龍臣 1850-1941) Cho Seok-jin (趙錫晉 1853-1920) et (cropped).jpg|''Hongryongpo'': everyday clothes for king
File:Emper Kojong.jpg|alt=Hwangryongpo: everyday clothes for emperor styled after the Chinese imperial robe. Gojong began to wear the yellow robe once restricted only to the Chinese emperors.|''Hwangryongpo'': everyday clothes for a Sino-sphere emperor styled after the Chinese imperial robe. Once restricted to Chinese emperors, Gojong began to wear the yellow robe after establishing the Korean Empire.
File:Korea-Portrait of Emperor Gojong-01.jpg|''Tongcheongwan'' and ''Gangsapo''
</gallery>

=== Deot-ot ===
''Deot-ot'' refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the ''jeogori''. Po also falls under this category. There are many varieties other than the ones listed here.

==== Banbi ====
''Banbi'' refers to a variety of short sleeved garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It was imported from [[Tang Dynasty]], and first appeared in [[Unified Silla Dynasty]]. It was worn by aristocrats of Unified Silla Dynasty.<ref>[http://contents.history.go.kr/front/nh/view.do?levelId=nh_009_0040_0050_0010_0020_0050 "반비 - 우리역사넷"], Historynet of National Institute of Korean History. 2023-02-02</ref>

==== Bigap ====
A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from [[Mongol Empire|Mongolian]] clothing worn during the [[Goryeo]] period.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=최 |first=해율 |date=2007 |title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & multimedia-Focused on rich women's costume of Goryeo-yang and Mongol-pung in Thirteenth to Fourteenth Century- |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART001040833 |journal=한국복식학회 |volume=57 |issue=1 |pages=176–186}}</ref>

==== Baeja and Kwaeja ====
Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. ''Kwaeja'' is interchangeable with ''Baeja,'' but ''Kwaeja'' often refers to men's clothing''.''

==== Dapho ====
The [[dapho]] is a short sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform.

==== ''Jokki'' ====
''Jokki'' ({{Lang-ko|조끼}}) is a type of [[vest]], while ''[[magoja]]'' is an outer jacket. The ''jokki'' was created around late [[Joseon dynasty]], as [[Western culture]] began to affect Korea.

==== ''Magoja'' ====
''Magoja'' was originally styled after the clothing of the [[Manchu people]], and was introduced to Korea after [[Heungseon Daewongun]], the father of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], returned from his political [[exile]] in [[Tianjin]] in 1887.<ref name="Britannica1" /><ref name="Life in Korea">{{cite web |title=Men's Clothing |url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=male |access-date=2008-11-01 |publisher=Life in Korea}}</ref> Long sleeved ''Magoja'' were derived from the ''[[Magua (clothing)|magwae]]'' he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, ''magoja'' became popular in Korea. It is also called ''"deot jeogori"'' (literally "an outer ''jeogori''") or ''magwae''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

''Magoja'' does not have a ''git'', the band of fabric trimming the collar.<ref name="KBS" /> ''Magoja'' was originally a male garment but later became [[unisex]]. The ''magoja'' for men sometimes has ''seop'' ({{korean|hangul=섶}}, overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's ''magoja'', with both sides open at the bottom. A ''magoja'' can be made of [[silk]] and often adorned with ''danchu'' which are usually made from [[amber]]. In men's ''magoja'', buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's ''magoja''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

===Children's hanbok===
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok for children-01.jpg|thumb|Children's hanbok]]

Traditionally, ''[[Kkachi durumagi]]'' (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as ''seolbim'' ([[Hangul]]: 설빔), new clothing and shoes worn on the Korean celebration of [[Korean New Year]],, while at present, it is worn as a ceremonial garment for ''[[doljanchi|dol]]'', the celebration for a baby's first birthday.<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi">{{cite web|url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 | publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[EncyKorea]] | access-date=2008-09-30 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610044200/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 | archive-date=2011-06-10 | language=ko}}</ref><ref name="dol">{{cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|title=Geocities.com|publisher=Julia's Cook Korean site|access-date=2007-11-29|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091027145013/http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|archive-date=2009-10-27|url-status=dead}}</ref> It is a children's colorful overcoat.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://engdic.daum.net/dicen//view_detail.do?q=%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2%B8%A6%20%C0%D4%C0%BA%20%B3%B2%BE%C6%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&qalias=K144180 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] Korean-English Dictionary |language=ko, en }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> It was worn mostly by young boys.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?33064&contentno=33064|title=Encyber.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}{{dead link|date=October 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The clothes is also called ''obangjang durumagi'' which means "an overcoat of five directions".<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi" /> It was worn over ''jeogori'' (a jacket) and ''jokki'' (a vest), while the wearer could put ''[[jeonbok]]'' (a long vest) over it. ''Kkachi durumagi'' was also worn along with [[headgear]] such as ''[[bokgeon]]'' (a peaked cloth hat),<ref>[http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc The Groom's Wedding Attire] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423212820/http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc |date=2009-04-23 }} Academia Koreana of Keimyung University</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|title=What are the traditional national clothes of Korea?|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160110071752/http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|archive-date=10 January 2016|url-status=dead|df=dmy-all}}</ref> ''hogeon'' (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or ''[[gulle]]'' (decorative headgear) for young girls.<ref name="Doosan" />{{Request quotation|date=May 2015}}<ref name="tour2korea">{{cite web|url=http://visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_3_2.jsp |title=Hanboks (Traditional Clothings) |work=Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok |publisher=[[Korea Tourism Organization]] |access-date=2008-10-06}}</ref>[[File:Children dressed in Korean traditional clothing at the opening ceremony for Old Korean Legation - 2018 (42300672731).jpg|thumb|Children in [[Washington DC]] wearing {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}]]

=== Foreign influences in design ===
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and [[Indigenous peoples|indigenous]] styles, including significant influences from various [[Chinese dynasties]], resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the {{transliteration|zh|[[Shenyi|simui]]}} from [[Song dynasty]],<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Kim |first=In-Suk |date=1977 |title=심의고(深依考) |url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO197720336527429.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=1 |pages=101–117 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref> ''[[gwanbok]]'' worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]],<ref name=":22" /><ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |last=Kyu-Seong |first=Choi |date=2004 |title=A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page |journal=The Research Journal of the Costume Culture |volume=12 |issue=6 |pages=1060–1069 |issn=1226-0401}}</ref> [[Song dynasty|Song]],<ref name=":17" /> and [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]],<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121 |title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia |date=2018 |others=Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong |isbn=978-3-319-97199-5 |location=Cham, Switzerland |pages=116 |oclc=1059514121}}</ref> and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] dynasties,<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/156808055 |title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history |date=2008 |others=Jill Condra |isbn=978-0-313-33662-1 |location=Westport, Connecticut |oclc=156808055}}</ref><ref>McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228</ref> the [[Terlig|''cheolik'']] from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court,<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Cho |first1=Woohyun |last2=Yi |first2=Jaeyoon |last3=Kim |first3=Jinyoung |date=2015 |title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig |url=https://akjournals.com/doi/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae |language=en |volume=68 |issue=3 |pages=22–29 |doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |issn=0001-6446}}</ref> and the ''[[magoja]]'' from Manchu clothing.

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and [[Goryeo]] hanbok had cultural influence on some [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty|clothing of Yuan dynasty]] worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing<ref name=":102" /> and in the Yuan imperial court<ref name=":0" />).<ref>고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957</ref> Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.<ref name="Daum Global">{{cite web |script-title=ko:옷의 역사 |url=http://donation.enc.daum.net/wikidonation/ency.do?vol=008&code=005002003000000000 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] / [[Global World Encyclopedia]] |language=ko}}</ref>

== Occasions ==
[[File:Korean.costume-Hanbok-wedding.bride-01.jpg|thumb|140px|''[[Hwarot]]'', bride clothes]]
Hanbok is classified according to its purposes: everyday dress, ceremonial dress, and special dress. Ceremonial dresses are worn on formal occasions, including a child's first birthday, a wedding, or a funeral. Special dresses are made for shamans and officials.<ref name="asia-planet.net"/>

Hanbok was worn daily up until just 100 years ago, it was originally designed to facilitate ease of movement. But now, it is only worn on festive occasions or special anniversaries.<ref>(Korea.net 2011, May Hanbok Korean Traditional clothes)</ref> It is a formal dress and most Koreans keep a hanbok for special times in their life such as wedding, Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving), and Seollnal (Korean New Year's), Children wear hanbok during their first birthday celebration ([[Hangul]]: 돌잔치) etc.<ref>{{cite web |title=Chuseok Hanbok |url=https://chuseok.org/chuseok-hanbok/ |website=Chuseok.org}}</ref> While the traditional hanbok was beautiful in its own right, the design has changed slowly over the generations. The core of hanbok is its graceful shape and vibrant colors, it is hard to think of hanbok as everyday wear but it is slowly being revolutionized through the changing of fabrics, colors and features, reflecting the desire of people.

Women's traditional {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of jeogori, which is a type of jacket, and chima, which is a wrap around skirt that is usually worn with a petticoat underneath. A man's hanbok consists of jeogori (jacket) and baggy pants that are called baji. There are also additional outer layers, such as the Po which is an outer coat, or robe, jokki which is a type of vest and magoja which is an outer jacket worn over jeogori for warmth and style.<ref>Sarah H, Jeong (2006, February) Hanbok, Korean Traditional Dress</ref>

The color of hanbok symbolized social position and marital status. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions.

Also, the status and position can be identified by the material of the hanbok. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials.<ref>Misie Lander (2017, January). Hanbok: An Introduction to South Korea's National Dress</ref>

==History==
=== Three Kingdoms of Korea ===
[[File:7th century painting of Koreans.png|thumb|7th-century Chinese [[Tang dynasty]] painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla.]]
The earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD).<ref>{{cite book|last1=Myeong-Jong|first1=Yoo|title=The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities|date=2005|publisher=Discovery Media|isbn=978-8995609101|page=123}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-ZuImINv0soC&pg=PA366|title=Peoples of Eastern Asia|date=2004|publisher=Marshall Cavendish|isbn=9780761475545|editor1-last=Macdonald|editor1-first=Fiona|page=366|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name=":82">{{cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Samuel Songhoon|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ|title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition|date=2015|publisher=Seoul Selection|isbn=9781624120565|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name="KCIS2">{{cite book|last1=Korean Culture and Information Service (South Korea)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NoxoBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA90|title=Guide to Korean Culture: Korea's cultural heritage|date=2014|publisher=길잡이미디어|isbn=9788973755714|page=90|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> The origin of ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and [[Manchuria]].<ref name="Greenwood2">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&pg=PA223|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History, Volume II|date=2008|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313336645|editor1-last=Condra|editor1-first=Jill|page=223|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> Some hypothesize that the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the [[Eurasian Steppes]] ([[Scythian clothing]]), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the [[Steppe Route]].<ref name="kim 7 154">Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15</ref><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035">Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003</ref><ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계">{{cite journal|title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20(1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> Reflecting its [[nomad]]ic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} shared structural similarities with ''[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]'' type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia'','' designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement,<ref name=":52" /><ref name=":23"/><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22">{{cite journal|last1=김소희|last2=채금석|year=2018|title=Scythai's clothing type and style: Focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20(1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket.<ref name=":20">{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=Youngsoo (Associate Professor, Department of Cultural Heritage, Gyeongju University) |date=2020 |title=Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types |script-title=ko:한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE09329939 |journal=복식 |language=ko |volume=70 |issue=2 |pages=188–208 |doi=10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188}}</ref> However, although the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised.<ref name=":20" /> It is also important to note that the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals were primarily painted in two geographical regions: [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]].<ref name=":022">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The former is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid-fourth to the mid-seventh centuries.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}} While the mural paintings found in regions Ji'an typically shows the characteristics of Goguryeo people in terms of their customs and morals; those from the regions of Pyeongyang typically show the cultural influences of the [[Han dynasty]] as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years, including Chinese-style clothing.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}}

==== Goguryeo ====
Early forms of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo tombs|Goguryeo tomb]] murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD.<ref name="KCIS2" /><ref name="Greenwood2" /><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22" /><ref>Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214</ref> Trousers, long jackets and ''twii'' (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day,<ref>{{cite web|author=[[Korea Tourism Organization]]|date=November 20, 2008|title=The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok|url=http://www.korea.net/news/News/LangView.asp?serial_no=20081111006|publisher=Korea.net}}</ref> except for the length and the ways the ''jeogori'' opening was closed as over the years.<ref name=":82" /> The ''jeogori'' opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a [[kaftan]] or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.<ref name=":82" /> Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the ''jeogori'' at the right became a standard practice.<ref name=":82" /> The length of the female ''jeogori'' also varied.<ref name=":82" /> For example, women's ''jeogori'' seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's ''jeogori''.<ref name=":82" />

In early Goguryeo, the ''jeogori'' jackets were hip-length [[Kaftan]] tunics belted at the waist, and the ''po'' overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at [[Noin-Ula burial site|Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula]].{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}} Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts.<ref name=":15">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/843418851|title=Encyclopedia of national dress : traditional clothing around the world|date=2013|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-37637-5|location=Santa Barbara, Calif.|pages=409|oclc=843418851}}</ref>

Two types of ''hwa'' (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

During this period, [[Pointed hat|conical hat]] and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=권준희 |date=2003 |title=The Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear of Koguryo(高句麗) and Shilla(新羅) |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART000851432 |journal=Journal of Korean Traditional Costume |language=kr |volume=6 |issue=3 |pages=6–84 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref> were worn as headgear.<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계"/> Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ''ochaebok''.<ref name=":82"/> The precursor of what is now known as the ''[[durumagi]]'' was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.<ref name=":82" /> Originally the ''durumagi'' was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.<ref name=":82" /> In Muyong-chong murals of ''[[Goguryeo]]'', there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese [[Water sleeves|water-sleeves]], was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day [[Korean dance|Korean court dances]] and [[Korean shamanism|mu-ism]] rituals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}}

<gallery>
File:Goguryeo tomb mural.jpg|A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from [[Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom]], 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China.
File:Goguryeo servants.jpg|Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long jeogori jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD.
File:Goguryeo tomb 07.jpg
File:수산리 고구려벽화.jpg
</gallery>

=== North-South States period ===
In the [[North-South States Period]] (698–926 AD), [[Silla]] and [[Balhae]] adopted ''[[dallyeong]]'', a [[circular-collar robe]] from the [[Tang dynasty]] of China.<ref>Lee, Tae-ok. Cho, Woo-hyun. Study on Danryung structure. Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference. 2003. pp. 49-49.</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Nam|first1=Min-yi|last2=Han|first2=Myung-Sook|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123}}</ref> In Silla, the ''[[Round collar robe|dallyeong]]'' was introduced by [[Muyeol of Silla]] in the second year of queen [[Jindeok of Silla]].<ref name=":1"/><ref name=":22"/> The ''dallyeong'' style from China was used as ''[[gwanbok]]'', a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and ''[[dragon robe]]'', a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon.<ref name=":1"/>

==== United Silla ====
The [[Silla]] Kingdom unified the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three Kingdoms]] in 668 AD. The [[Later Silla|Unified Silla]] (668-935 AD) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of [[Luoyang]] which included Chinese dress styles, the second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western [[Empire silhouette]]. King [[Muyeol of Silla]] personally travelled to the [[Tang dynasty]] to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), [[Round collar robe|danryunpo]] (團領袍; round collar gown), [[banbi]], baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾).<ref name=":22">{{Cite journal|last1=Yu|first1=Ju-Ri|last2=Kim|first2=Jeong-Mee|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469}}</ref> Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are ''danryunpo'' and ''bokdu''.<ref name=":22"/> The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of [[Jindeok of Silla|Queen Jindeok]]; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2013|publisher=길잡이미디어|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> In 664 AD, [[Munmu of Silla]] decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the [[Tang dynasty]]; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the [[Tang dynasty]].<ref name=":22"/> Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the ''jeogori''.<ref name=":22"/><ref name=":21">{{Cite book|last=Lee|first=Samuel Songhoon.|url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/871061483|title=Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition|year=2013|isbn=978-89-97639-41-0|oclc=871061483}}</ref> The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court.<ref name=":15" /><ref name=":9">{{Cite book|last=Pratt|first=Keith L.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42675362|title=Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary|date=1999|publisher=Curzon Press|others=Richard Rutt, James Hoare|isbn=978-0-7007-0464-4|location=Richmond, Surrey|pages=106|oclc=42675362}}</ref> The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, [[Heungdeok of Silla|King Heundeog]] enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD.<ref name=":22" /> The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing.<ref name=":22" />

<gallery>
File:Korea-National.Folk.Museum-01.jpg|Reconstruction of [[Silla]] king's and queen's attire
File:Gold Waist Belt from the North Mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb.jpg|Gold waist belt used by royalty of Silla.
File:신라 토용2.jpg|Women figures wearing Tang-dynasty style clothing, Silla.
</gallery>

==== Balhae ====
[[Balhae]] (698–926 AD) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous [[Mohe people]] elements.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/864678409|title=A new history of Parhae|date=2012|publisher=Global Oriental|others=John B. Duncan, Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan |isbn=978-90-04-24299-9 |location=Leiden |oclc=864678409}}</ref> Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition.<ref name=":4" /> However, after [[Mun of Balhae]], Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the ''putou'' and round collared gown for its official attire.<ref name=":4" /> Male everyday clothing was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts.<ref name=":4" /> Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ''ungyeon'' (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after the demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm.<ref name=":4" />

=== Goryeo dynasty ===
The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} still used by the commoners,{{Citation needed|date=January 2022|reason=Need a clear source}} In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class.<ref name="Koreana2">{{cite journal|author=Cho, Woo-hyun|title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development|url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html|publisher=Koreana|volume=9|issue=3}}{{dead link|date=December 2017|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle2">{{cite web|script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷|trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing|url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|archive-date=2012-03-02|publisher=Korea the sense|language=ko}}</ref> The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=김남정|date=2000|title=조선시대 치마에 관한 연구|url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/184592}}</ref>

In [[Goryeo Buddhist paintings]], the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the [[Song dynasty]].<ref name=":72">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1154853080|title=A companion to Korean art|date=2020|others=J. P. Park, Burglind Jungmann, Juhyung Rhi|isbn=978-1-118-92702-1|location=Hoboken, NJ|pages=192|oclc=1154853080}}</ref> The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=436|oclc=38831761}}</ref> On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in [[Yuan dynasty]] rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo.<ref name=":72" /> The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when [[Goryeo under Mongol rule|Goryeo was under Mongol rule]] (1270 –1356).<ref name=":18">{{Cite journal|last1=Chae|first1=Keum Seok|last2=Kim|first2=Eun Kyoung|date=2016|title=The Study on Costume Shapes through Goryeo Dynasty Paintings -Comparison with Song and Yuan Style-|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201608967046815.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=40|issue=6|pages=1116–1133|doi=10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.1116|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the ''Royal Palace Mandala'', the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court.<ref name=":18" />

<gallery>
File:Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara (detailed view of patrons).jpg|Details of the ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'' painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=435–436|oclc=38831761}}</ref>
File:Goryeohanbok.jpg|alt=A noblewoman's attire in Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara,It were chima jeogori,it was a Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.|Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'', Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.<ref name=":18" />
File:王宮曼荼羅図.jpg|Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting ''Royal Palace Mandala'', late Goryeo
File:Goryeo lady joban.jpg|Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty.
File:Korea-National.Treasure-110-Yi.Jehyung-portrait-NMK.jpg|Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing [[Shenyi|simui]].
</gallery>Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the [[Goryeo]] dynasty signed a peace treaty with the [[Mongol Empire]] in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life.<ref name=":22"/><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035" /><ref name="koreanculture.org">{{cite web|url=http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm |title=Hanbok |publisher=Korean Overseas Information Service}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110717173525/http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|url-status=dead|archive-date=17 July 2011|title=UriCulture.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref> A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the Kings of Goryeo.<ref name=":0" /> The [[Yuan dynasty]] princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents.<ref name=":22"/> As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court.<ref name=":22"/> The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called ''Mongolpung''.<ref name=":0" /> King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the [[Yuan dynasty]] and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing.<ref name=":22"/> After the fall of the [[Yuan dynasty]], only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared.<ref name=":22"/> As a result of the Mongol influence, the ''chima'' skirt was shortened, and ''jeogori'' was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}''g'' (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the ''twii'' (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly.{{Citation needed|date=May 2021}}

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the [[Mongols]] court of the [[Yuan dynasty]] (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, [[Khanbaliq]].<ref>Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=001&oid=028&aid=0000100944&|title=News.Naver.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|title=ChinaCulture.org|access-date=8 October 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141124213026/http://www.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|archive-date=24 November 2014}}</ref> However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nx5JDiacrH4C&q=korea&pg=PA16|title=Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=978-1-59265-019-4|page=6}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Kim|first1=Jinyoung|last2=Lee|first2=Jaeyeong|last3=Lee|first3=Jongoh|date=2015|title="GORYEOYANG" AND "MONGOLPUNG" in the 13th-14th CENTURIES|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957480|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=281–292|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.3|jstor=43957480|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were ''kongnyo'' (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Soh|first=Chung-Hee|date=2004|title=Women's Sexual Labor and State in Korean History|url=http://muse.jhu.edu/content/crossref/journals/journal_of_womens_history/v015/15.4soh.html|journal=Journal of Women's History|volume=15|issue=4|pages=170–177|doi=10.1353/jowh.2004.0022|s2cid=144785547|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as ''kongnyo'' against their will.<ref name=":0" /> Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.<ref name=":0" /> However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was [[Empress Gi]] who was elevated as empress in 1365.<ref name=":0" /> Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.<ref name=":0" /> The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as ''Goryeoyang'' ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short [[banbi]] (半臂) with square collar (方領).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":102">{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Hai-Yaul|date=2007|title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200708508472010.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=57|issue=1|pages=176–186|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.<ref name=":102"/> According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [''Koryŏ yang''] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."<ref>{{Cite book|last=Park|first=Hyunhee|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1198087560|title=Soju : a global history|date=2021|isbn=978-1-108-89577-4|location=Cambridge|pages=124–125|oclc=1198087560}}</ref> Tracing the development and evolution of {{Transliteration|ko|goryeoyang}} (高麗樣), it can be found that the popular {{Transliteration|ko|banryeong banbi}} (方領半臂) during the Yuan Dynasty were actually the result of the influence of ancient Chinese costumes on the Korean Peninsula before the Yuan Dynasty. According to the 高麗史·舆服志<ref>高麗史·舆服志</ref>[https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E9%AB%98%E9%BA%97%E5%8F%B2/%E5%8D%B7%E4%B8%83%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%8C#冠服通制], the Goryeo costume system inherited the costume system of the Tang Dynasty. The half arm was developed from the half sleeves in the Han and Wei Dynasties. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the half arm became a fashionable dress for women. In the Tang Dynasty, half-arms were worn on top of the coat, or under the coat and on top of the mid-single. With the lower skirt, the half-arm shirt appeared in the form of a placket. The half arm of the Tang Dynasty spread to the Korean peninsula, and continued to be inherited and developed during the Goryeo Dynasty, becoming an important costume of the Goryeo Dynasty.

===Joseon dynasty===
{{More citations needed section|date=September 2019}}
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939 |title=Guide to Korean culture. |date=2013 |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-571-4 |location=Seoul, Republic of Korea |pages=92 |oclc=882879939}}</ref> Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.<ref name=":19" /> After the [[Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98)]] or ''Imjin War'', economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric.<ref name="Chosun Ilbo2">{{cite news |title=Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions |newspaper=Chosun Ilbo |url=http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2006/05/29/2006052961020.html |access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref>

==== Women's everyday wear ====
[[File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1.jpg|thumb|Ordinary people's clothing,<ref name=":18" /> Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD, Early Joseon]]
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398);<ref>[http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/ECulresult_Db_View.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,04590000,38&queryText=(mural%3Cin%3E%20z_title)%3Cand%3E(V_EYEAR%20%3E=1350)&requery=0 Miryang gobeomni bagik byeokhwamyo (Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang)]. [[Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea|Cultural Heritage Administration]]. Accessed 15 July 2009.</ref> the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Administration |first=Cultural Heritage |title=Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search |url=http://english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do;jsessionid=zlMQLnmvrCZ3g9fsza7XSFD2VaW1HbZAfUE3Mxu7kkbLeRDLJK64zg5QpV9bYqor.cha-was01_servlet_engine4?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=04590000&sCcebCtcd=38&pageIndex=279&region=&canAsset=&ccebPcd1=&searchWrd=&startNum=&endNum=&stCcebAsdt=&enCcebAsdt=&canceled=&ccebKdcd=&ccebCtcd= |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=Cultural Heritage Administration - English Site |language=en}}</ref> The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the [[Ming dynasty]] clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Welters |first=Linda |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828 |title=Fashion history : a global view |date=2018 |others=Abby Lillethun |isbn=978-1-4742-5363-5 |location=London, UK |oclc=1004424828}}</ref> During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when ''chima'' was rather slim and ''jeogori'' baggy and long, reaching well below waist level.

In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&q=Silla+hanbok&pg=PA222|title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history|date=2008|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-33662-1|location=Westport, Connecticut|pages=222–223|oclc=156808055}}</ref> Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Murray |first=Anne Wood (Emeritus Curator of American Costume, Division of Costume, Department of Social and Cultural History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.) |title=Dress - Korea |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |access-date=2021-03-10 |website=Encyclopædia Britannica |quote="In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China."}}</ref> In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939|title=Guide to Korean culture.|date=2013|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-571-4|location=Seoul, Republic of Korea|pages=93|oclc=882879939}}</ref><ref name=":11" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Sunny|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39614017|title=Hanbok : the art of Korean clothing|date=1997|publisher=Hollym|isbn=1-56591-082-6|location=Elizabeth, N.J.|pages=61|oclc=39614017}}</ref> The 15th century AD ''chima-jeogori'' style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima.<ref name=":11" /><gallery>
File:영의정하연부부영정4.jpg|15th century lady
File:영의정하연부부영정2.jpg|15th century lady
</gallery>However, by the 16th century, the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries.<ref>Keum, Ki-Suk "The Beauty of Korean Traditional Costume" (Seoul: Yeorhwadang, 1994) {{ISBN|89-301-1039-8}} p.43</ref><ref name="Contemporary Artwork of Women2">{{cite web|title=Contemporary Artwork of Korean Women|url=http://medieval-baltic.us/korot2.html|access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref><ref name="Chosun Ilbo2" /> In the 16th century, women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} was long, wide, and covered the waist.<ref name="저고리2">{{cite web|last1=허윤희|title=조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져|url=http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/06/27/2011062702249.html|access-date=6 September 2019|website=조선닷컴|language=ko}}</ref> The length of women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} gradually shortened: it was approximately 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm.<ref name="저고리2" /> A {{Transliteration|ko|heoritti}} (허리띠) or {{Transliteration|ko|jorinmal}} (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts.<ref name="저고리2" /> The trend of wearing a short jeogori with a heoritti was started by the [[gisaeng]] and soon spread to women of the upper class.<ref name="저고리2" /> Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they [[Toplessness|revealed their breasts]] by removing a cloth to make breastfeeding more convenient.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Han|first1=Hee-sook|date=2004|title=Women's Life during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://ijkh.khistory.org/journal/view.php?number=342|journal=International Journal of Korean History|volume=6|issue=1|page=142|access-date=6 September 2019}}</ref> As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women".<ref name=":21" /> During the 17th and 18th centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. In the 18th century, the ''jeogori'' became very short to the point that the waistband of the ''chima'' was visible; this style was first seen on female entertainers at the Joseon court.<ref name=":12" /> The ''jeogori'' continued to shorten until it reached the modern times ''jeogori''-length; i.e. just covering the breasts.<ref name=":11" /> The fullness of the skirt reached its extreme around 1800. During the 19th century fullness of the skirt was achieved around the knees and ankles thus giving ''chima'' a triangular or an A-shaped silhouette, which is still the preferred style to this day. Many [[Sokgot|undergarments]] such as ''darisokgot,'' ''soksokgot,'' ''dansokgot'', and ''gojengi'' were worn underneath to achieve desired forms.<gallery>
File:Chimajeogori002.jpg|Women's hanbok consists of ''chima'' skirt and ''jeogori'' shirt by Shin Yunbok
File:18thcentury maid.jpg|Full skirt and tight ''jeogori'' were considered fashionable. 18th century.
File:Yangban.jpg|A rare painting of ''[[yangban]]'' women. ''Yangban'' ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried [[Seonbi]] scholars. 18th century.
File:18thcentury innerwear.jpg|''Soksokgot'', similar to a [[petticoat]], is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
File:Hyewon-Ssanggeum.daemu.jpg|Dancing together with two swords
</gallery>

At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced ''[[magoja]]'', a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over ''jeogori'' to this day.

A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok. Modern ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. ''Heoritti'' are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons.

==== Men's everyday wear ====
[[File:Interior_1,_Unhyeongung_-_Seoul,_Korea.JPG|thumb|Male aristocrat dress: a ''[[Gat (hat)|gat]]'' (a [[horsehair]] hat) on the head and yellow ''[[Dopo (clothing)|dopo]]'' (overcoat)]]Men's hanbok saw little change compared to women's hanbok. The form and design of ''jeogori'' and ''baji'' hardly changed.

In contrast, men's lengthy outwear, the equivalent of the modern overcoat, underwent a dramatic change. Before the late 19th century, ''yangban'' men almost always wore ''jungchimak'' when traveling. ''Jungchimak'' had very lengthy sleeves, and its lower part had splits on both sides and occasionally on the back so as to create a fluttering effect in motion. To some this was fashionable, but to others, namely stoic scholars, it was nothing but pure vanity. Daewon-gun successfully banned ''jungchimak'' as a part of his clothes reformation program and ''jungchimak'' eventually disappeared.

''[[Durumagi]]'', which was previously worn underneath ''jungchimak'' and was basically a house dress, replaced ''jungchimak'' as the formal outwear for ''yangban'' men. ''Durumagi'' differs from its predecessor in that it has tighter sleeves and does not have splits on either sides or back. It is also slightly shorter in length. Men's hanbok has remained relatively the same since the adoption of ''durumagi''. In 1884, the Gapsin Dress Reform took place.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Pyun|first1=Kyunghee|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ivZ0DwAAQBAJ&q=myeonbok&pg=PA55|title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia|last2=Wong|first2=Aida Yuen|date=2018|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-3-319-97199-5|location=Cham, Switzerland|oclc=1059514121}}</ref> Under the 1884's decree of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], only narrow-sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the [[durumagi]] or ''chaksuui'' or ''ju-ui'' (周衣).<ref name=":13" />

Hats was an essential part formal dress and the development of official hats became even more pronounced during this era due to the emphasis of Confucian values.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last=Ch'oe|first=Ŭn-su|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2012|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> The [[Gat (hat)|gat]] was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon-era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan.<ref name=":6" /> The popularity of those Chinese hats may have partially been due to the promulgation of Confucianism and because they were used by literary figures and scholars in China.<ref name=":6" /> In 1895, King Gojong decreed adult Korean men to cut their hair short and western-style clothing were allowed and adopted.<ref name=":13" /><gallery>
Image:18thcentur man.jpg|A man wearing ''jungchimak''. 18th century.
Image:Malehanbok002.JPG|The "fluttering" effect. 18th century.
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-01.jpg|''Waryonggwan'' and ''hakchangui'' in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic 3.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic group.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-02.jpg|''Bokgeon'' and ''simui'' in 1880
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-03.jpg|Black ''bokgeon'' and blue ''dopo'' in 1880
Image:Korea-Min Sangho-1898-Hubert Vos.jpg|''[[Chengziguan|Jeongjagwan]]'' on the head
File:A_Corean_in_mourning_clothes.jpg|A Korean in mourning clothes
File:COREANS.jpg|Korean men, 1871
File:Corean_man._Middle_class.jpg|Young Korean man of the [[Chungin|middle class]], 1904
File:Korea-History-1910-1920-Korean.mother.child-Carpenter.Collection.jpg|Korean mother and daughter, 1910–1920
</gallery>

====Material and color====
[[File:Joseon-Portrait_of_Cha_Jegong-Black_danryeongpo.jpg|thumb|225x225px|''Heuk dallyeongpo'' in the late 18th century]]
The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven [[ramie]] cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best.

The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white, but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal. The color of ''chima'' showed the wearer's social position and statement. For example, a navy color indicated that a woman had son(s). Only the royal family could wear clothing with ''[[geumbak]]''-printed patterns (gold leaf) on the bottom of the chima.

====Headdresses====
[[File:Miindo-Yun.family.of.Haenam-d1.jpg|left|thumb|140x140px|A woman wearing a wig, or ''[[gache]]'']]
Both male and female wore their hair in a long [[braid]] until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted; man's hair was knotted in a topknot called ''sangtu'' (상투) on the top of the head, and the woman's hair was rolled into a ball shaped form or ''komeori'' and was set just above the nape of the neck.

A long pin, or ''[[binyeo]]'' (비녀), was worn in women's knotted hair as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the ''binyeo'' varied according to the wearer's class and status. And also wore a ribbon or ''[[daenggi]]'' (댕기) to tie and to decorate braided hair. Women wore a ''[[jokduri]]'' on their wedding day and wore an ''[[Ayam (cap)|ayam]]'' for protection from the cold. Men wore a [[Gat (hat)|gat]], which varied according to class and status.

Before the 19th century, women of high social backgrounds and ''[[gisaeng]]'' wore wigs (''[[gache]]''). Like their Western counterparts, Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more desirable and aesthetic. Such was the women's frenzy for the ''gache'' that in 1788 [[Jeongjo of Joseon|King Jeongjo]] banned by royal decree the use of ''gache'', as they were deemed contrary to the [[Korean Confucianism|Korean Confucian]] values of reserve and restraint.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Art of Beauty and Perfume in Ancient Korea {Cultural Notes} {Beauty Notes} - The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine|url=http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2008/04/beauty_perfume_in_traditional.html|website=www.mimifroufrou.com}}</ref>

Owing to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses (''nae-oe-seugae'') to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include ''suegaechima'' (a headdress which looked like a ''chima'' but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper-class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the [[jang-ot]], and the ''neoul'' (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen).<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Cho|first=Seunghye|date=2017-09-03|title=The Ideology of Korean Women's Headdresses during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|journal=Fashion Theory|volume=21|issue=5|pages=553–571|doi=10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|s2cid=165117375|issn=1362-704X}}</ref>

In the 19th century ''yangban'' women began to wear ''jokduri'', a small hat that replaced ''gache''. However ''gache'' enjoyed vast popularity in ''kisaeng'' circles well into the end of the century.

===Later development===
Today's hanbok is the direct descendant of hanbok patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle-class in the [[Joseon]] period,<ref name=":9" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Korean Culture and Information Service Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927|title=Passport to Korean culture.|date=2009|publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-153-2|edition=2009|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=104|oclc=680802927}}</ref> specifically the late 19th century. Hanbok had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical hanbok.

Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western [[Suit (clothing)|suit]] and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, hanbok is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child.

==Modern usage==
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} has been featured in international [[haute couture]]; on the catwalk, in 2015 when [[Karl Lagerfeld|Karl Lagerfield]] dressed Korean models for [[Chanel]], and during [[Paris Fashion Week]] in photography by [[Phil Oh]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|work=Vogue|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as [[Britney Spears]] and [[Jessica Alba]], and athletes, such as tennis player [[Venus Williams]] and football player [[Hines Ward]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.sweetandtastytv.com/blog/2013/07/25/8-american-celebrities-wearing-hanbok|title=8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok|work=SweetandtastyTV|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as [[Lisa Ling]] and [[Miss Asia Pageant|Miss Asia]] 2014, [[Eriko Lee Katayama]].<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |title=KIM MeHee hanbok couture |url=http://www.kimmehee.com/ |website=KIM MeHee hanbok couture}}</ref> It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by [[Sandra Oh]] at the [[Screen Actors Guild Award|SAG Awards]], and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the [[Emmy Award]]s.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/sandra-ohs-mother-makes-history-wearing-traditional-hanbok-red-carpet-082913406.html|title=Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

=== South Korea ===
{{Multi image
| image3 = Leesle Hanbok model.jpg
| caption3 = Modernized summer hanbok by Leesle Hanbok, 2008
| caption_align = center
}}
Although hanbok is a traditional costume, it has been re-popularized in modern fashion.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|first=Monica|last=Kim|website=Vogue}}</ref> As the hanbok continues to modernize, opinions are divided on the redesigns.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/stories/girls-wearing-hanboks-skirts-now-koreans-arent-sure-feel/|title=Girls are wearing hanboks with skirts now, and Koreans are not sure how they feel about it|date=2017-10-09|work=Koreaboo|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://mengnews.joins.com/view.aspx?aId=3042015|title=Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire|website=Korea JoongAng Daily|language=ko|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent [[K-pop]] artists like [[Blackpink]] and [[BTS]], notably in their music videos for "[[How You Like That]]" and [[Idol (BTS song)|"Idol."]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.sbs.com.au/popasia/blog/2018/08/23/11-times-bts-rocked-traditional-korean-clothing|title=11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing|website=SBS PopAsia|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/news/everything-need-know-blackpink-traditional-korean-hanbok-outfits-in-howyoulikethat-mv/|title=Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV|date=26 June 2020}}</ref>

In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.

=== North Korea ===
{{Multi image
| image1 = Two housewives celebrated the 69th founding anniversary of the DPRK.jpg
| image2 = North Korea 039 (6160325571).jpg
| caption2 = Newlywed bride in hanbok, North Korea
| image3 = At Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (13610012573).jpg
| caption3 = Women wearing uniform joseon-ot, North Korea
| total_width = 350
| caption1 = Women in joseon-ot, North Korea, 2017
| perrow = 2
| header = Joseon-ot in North Korea
| image4 = Girls in Pyongyang.jpg
| caption4 = Little girls wearing chima-jeogori, North Korea, Pyeongyang
}}
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} is also worn present-days [[North Korea]] where it is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}).<ref name=":242">{{Cite web |title=Hanbok in N. Korea |url=http://world.kbs.co.kr/special/northkorea/contents/news/closeup_view.htm?No=378367 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=world.kbs.co.kr |language=en}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of [[Kim Jong-un|Kim Jong-Un]].<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} is currently typically worn during special occasions, e.g. weddings,<ref name=":28">{{Cite book |title=Mysterious Pyongyang: Cosmetics, Beauty Culture and North Korea |publisher=Springer Singapore |others=Nam Sung-wook, Chae Su-lan, Lee Ga-young (editors) |year=2020 |isbn=9789811577031 |language=en}}</ref>{{Rp|page=49}} and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents.<ref name=":242" /> It is also mandated that women wear {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} when attending National events, such as [[Kim Jong-il]]'s birthday (February 16), [[International Women's Day|International women's day]] (March 8), [[Kim Il-sung|Kim Il-Sung's]] birthday (April 15), Foundation Day (September 9).<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=78}} White coloured hanbok is often used as the colour white has been the traditionally favoured by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit.<ref name=":242" />

The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms.<ref name=":242" /> The uniform of female university students is a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} since the early to mid 2000s.<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} can often be found about 30 cm from the ground-level for practice purposes in order to facilitate movements and ensure that women could wear it on their daily workday with ease and comfort; this decrease in skirt length also gives a sense of modern style.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=75}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} patterns also have special meanings, which are given by the North Koreans.<ref name=":242" /> Generally, young people in North Korea likes floral prints and bright colours, while the older generations favours simple styles of clothing and solid colours.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=376}} The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} in North Korea is sometimes characterized by its use of floral patterns which are often added to the sleeves of the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and to the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}}.<ref name=":242" /> [[Azalea|Azalaes]], in particular, are well-favoured in [[Nyongbyon County|Yongbyon]] due to its association with an emotional poem ''Azaleas''《{{Korean|hangul=진달래꽃|labels=no}}》by [[Kim Sowol|Kim So-wol]].<ref name=":242" /> Men occasionally wore {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}}.<ref name=":242" />

However, {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at US$20 while the {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} made in [[China]] with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately US$3000.<ref name=":242" /> The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} by their parents.<ref name=":242" />

==== History ====
The 1950s and 1960s also saw women from the upper-class wore {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} made out of [[rayon]] while a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} consisting of a black long-length {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} and white {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} were used in the 1950s and 1960s where it was generally worn by women;<ref name=":02">{{Cite web |title=Changes in the Clothing Culture of North Korea under the Kim Jong Un Regime |url=https://globalnk.org/note/view?cd=NOT000012 |access-date=2022-08-23 |website=Global North Korea |language=ko}}</ref> this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] period.<ref name=":242" /> This combination is still representative of the ideal woman and remains the official outfit for women in North Korea to this day.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=77}} In the 1980s, the {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} became the official attire of women when attending ceremonies while western-style clothing became the everyday, ordinary clothing.<ref name=":02" />

After the mid-1990s due to extreme econooic contractions, women can purchase their {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in private markers and are allowed to choose their desired colours and designs.<ref name=":242" />

In 2001, [[Lee Young-hee (designer)|Lee Young-Hee]], a South Korean {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designer visited [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] to hold fashion at the Pyeongyang Youth Center on June 4 and 6;<ref name=":27">{{Cite book |last=Yonhap News Agency, Seoul |title=North Korea Handbook |publisher=M. E. Sharpe Incorporated |isbn=9780765635235 |editor-last=Yonhap News Agency}}</ref>{{Rp|page=262}} and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own [[fashion show]] in [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] every spring.<ref name=":02" /> Since 2001, there have been an increased of shops specialized in the customization of {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in Pyeongyang which was reported by the KBCS.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=261}}This increase was due to a project implemented by the public service bureau of the Pyeongyang People's Committee to increase {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} tailoiring shops.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}} These shops are typically found in large cities, such as Pyeongyang and Gaesong but are rarely found in small cities and villages.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}}

=== modern usage of Korean diaspora ===

==== China ====
[[File:연변문예 표지 이미지.jpg|thumb|344x344px|Illustration of vintage {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on a Yanbian magazine cover, China, 1975~1983.]]
In [[China]], the {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is referred as {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=朝鮮服}}; {{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ({{Lang-zh|s=朝鲜族|t=朝鮮族|p=cháoxiǎnzú|l=[[Joseon]] (Korean) ethnic group}}) in China. The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 [[Ethnic minorities in China|ethnic minority in China]];<ref name=":25">{{Cite thesis |title=Chaoxianzu's Traditions of Dress: An Exploration of Identity Within Contemporary Fashion Contexts |url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/handle/10292/13127 |publisher=Auckland University of Technology |date=2020 |degree=Thesis |language=en |first=Wenlian |last=Jin}}</ref> people from {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=240}} They share the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the [[Constitution]] of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities.<ref name=":25" /> The term {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} literally correspond to {{Transliteration|zh|Chosonjok}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선족|hanja=朝鮮族|rr=Chosŏnjok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to {{Transliteration|ko|Hangukgye Junggugin}} ({{Literally|Korean-Chinese}}), which is the actual legal term in South Korea.<ref name=":26">{{Cite web |last=Ahn |first=Yeong-chun |title=[Column] The hanbok belongs to the Korean diaspora, too |url=https://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/english_editorials/1030269.html |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=english.hani.co.kr}}</ref> In the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], where most {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} reside,<ref name=":25" /> the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was mostly worn on special occasions in the past;<ref name=":5"/> however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable.<ref name=":25" />

since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced.<ref name=":25" /> The "reform and opening up" of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} of China.<ref name=":25" /> Following the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} tradition, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a [[mountain]] as per the tradition, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also covers the entire body.<ref name=":25" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} have developed their own style of {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}}<ref name=":24">{{Cite journal |last=Lin |first=Huishun |date=2020 |title=A study on the Alteration of traditional costume of Korean Chinese (I) - Focused on the daily wear |script-title=ko:중국 조선족 전통복식의 변화연구 (I) - 일상복을 중심으로 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE10514397 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |language=ko |volume=22 |issue=4 |pages=63–78}}</ref> due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} As a result, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in South Korea, North Korea, and China, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other. For example, ''Yemi Hanbok'' by Songok Ryu, an ethnic {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} from the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], is unique in both style and business model as it can operate in both South Korea and North Korea.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} In terms of {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} design, ''Yemi Hanbok'' designs are based on Chinese-style designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}} Over the years, the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also changed in length for the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}} and changed in width for the {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, {{Transliteration|ko|dong-jeong}}, sleeves, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}. The {{Transliteration|ko|git}} and {{Transliteration|ko|barae}} have evolved from straight to curve patterns. The wrinkle arrangement, length, and silhouette of the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} have also evolved; some of the skirts were sometimes decorated with [[Goldwork (embroidery)|gold embroidery]] or gold leaf at the bottom hem.<ref name=":24" /> The colours used were also very varied; for example, feminine colours such as pink, yellow, and deep red could be used.<ref name=":24" /> The 1990s saw the use of gold leaf, floral prints, embroidery on the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}}; the use of gradient colours also emerged.<ref name=":24" /> For men, their {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|baji}}, and sleeves were made longer; their {{Transliteration|ko|baji}} also became wider. The {{Transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}} continues to be worn, and the {{Transliteration|ko|baeja}} and {{Transliteration|ko|magoja}} are worn frequently in present-days.<ref name=":24" />

On June 7, 2008, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage.<ref name=":25" /> And, in 2011, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was official designated as being part of the [[intangible cultural heritage]] of China by the Chinese government; while the announcement was welcomed by the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distinctive national culture of Koreans".<ref>{{Cite book |last=Kim |first=Jaeeun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/951625687 |title=Contested embrace : transborder membership politics in twentieth-century Korea |date=2016 |isbn=978-0-8047-9961-4 |location=Stanford, California |oclc=951625687}}</ref>{{Rp|page=239}} In 2022, a girl from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ethnic wore a {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on the [[2022 Winter Olympics|2022 Beijing Winter Olympics]] opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of [[cultural appropriation]].<ref name=":26" />

==Social status==
Especially from the [[Goryeo]] Dynasty, the hanbok started to determine differences in social status (from people with the highest social status (kings), to those of the lowest social status (slaves)<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea">Chung, Hyun-sook, [http://go.galegroup.com/ps/i.do?id=GALE%7CCX3403700685&v=2.1&u=unc_main&it=r&p=GVRL&sw=w "Clothing, Traditional - Korea"], ''Encyclopedia of Modern Asia'', 2002</ref>) and gender through the many types, components,<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea" /> colours,<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/853455231 |title=Color and design |date=2012 |publisher=Berg Publishers |others=Marilyn Revell DeLong, Barbara Martinson |isbn=978-1-84788-953-9 |location=London |oclc=853455231}}</ref>{{Rp|page=132}} and characteristics.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development">Cho, Woo-hyun, [http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131231000234/http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English |date=31 December 2013 }}, "Koreana", 1995</ref> Although the modern Hanbok does not express a person's status or social position, Hanbok was an important element of distinguishment especially in the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development" /> For example, farmers and commoners were not allowed to wear colour garments in their daily lives, excluding some categories of people, such as the shamans, [[Kisaeng|gisaeng]], and children, who were allowed to wear colourful clothing despite their social status.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} Occasions when all people were allowed to wear colourful clothing were for special ceremonial occasions (e.g. wedding, birthday, holidays).<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}}

===Clothes===

==== {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} ====

'''{{Transliteration|ko|[[Hwarot]]}}''' or '''{{Transliteration|ko|hwal-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=활옷}}) was the full dress for a princess and the daughter of a king by a [[concubine]], formal dress for the upper class, and bridal wear for ordinary women during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=47529&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)"], "C News041", 2012/10/23</ref> Popular embroidered patterns on {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} were [[lotus (genus)|lotuses]], [[Phoenix (mythology)|phoenixes]], butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white [[Crane (bird)|cranes]], and deer.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing">Life in Korea, [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official "Official/Court Clothing"], "Life in Korea"</ref> Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor while a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> All these patterns throughout Korean history had meanings of longevity, good luck, wealth and honor.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} also had blue, red, and yellow colored stripes in each [[sleeve]]; a woman usually wore a scarlet-colored skirt and yellow or green-colored [[Jeogori]], a traditional Korean jacket.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} was worn over the [[Jeogori]] and skirt.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A woman also wore her hair in a bun, with an ornamental hairpin and a ceremonial [[coronet]].<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A long ribbon was attached to the ornamental hairpin, the hairpin is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Yongjam}} ({{Korean|hangul=용잠}}).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> In more recent times, people wear {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} on their wedding day, and so the Korean tradition survives in the present day.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" />

====Wonsam====

'''''[[Wonsam]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=원삼}}) was a ceremonial overcoat for a married woman in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=46289&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)"], "C News041", 2012/11/12</ref> The [[Wonsam]] was also adopted from [[China]] and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the [[Tang dynasty]] which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period.<ref name=":1" /> It was mostly worn by royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noblewomen and the colors and patterns represented the various elements of the Korean class system.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> The empress wore yellow; the queen wore red; the crown princess wore a purple-red color;<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} meanwhile a princess, a king's daughter by a [[concubine]], and a woman of a noble family or lower wore green.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> All the upper social ranks usually had two colored stripes in each sleeve: yellow-colored Wonsam usually had red and blue colored stripes, red-colored Wonsam had blue and yellow stripes, and green-colored Wonsam had red and yellow stripes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> Lower-class women wore many accompanying colored stripes and ribbons, but all women usually completed their outfit with '''Onhye''' or '''Danghye''', traditional Korean shoes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" />

====Dangui====

'''''[[Dangui]]''''' or '''''Tangwi''''' ({{Korean|hangul=당의}}) were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing" /> The materials used to make {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=48695&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)"], "C News041", 2012/11/28</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, and the queen wore red.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" /> In the [[Joseon]] dynasty, ordinary women wore {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} as part of their wedding dress.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" />

====Myeonbok and Jeokui====
=====''Myeonbok''=====

'''''[[Myeonbok]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=면복}}) were the king's religious and formal ceremonial robes while '''''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]''''' were the queen's equivalent during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Myeonbok">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=545727&categoryId=1646 "Myeonbok"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Myeonbok was composed of '''Myeonryu-Gwan''' ({{Korean|hangul=면류관}}) and '''Gujang-bok''' ({{Korean|hangul=구장복}}).<ref name="Myeonbok" /> Myonryu-Gwan had beads, which hung loose; these would prevent the king from seeing wickedness.<ref name="Myeonbok" /> There were also wads of cotton in the left and right sides of Myeonryu-Gwan, and these were supposed to make the king oblivious to the influence of corrupt officials. Gujang-bok was black, and it bore nine symbols out of the [[Twelve Ornaments|Twelve ornaments]], which all represented the king.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

=====Nine symbols=====
# [[Dragon]]:A dragon's appearance paralleled how the king governed and subsequently brought balance to the world.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Fire]]: The king was expected to be intelligent and wise to govern the people effectively, like a guiding light represented by the fire.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Pheasant]]: The image of a pheasant represented magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Mountain]]: As a mountain is high, the king was on a par in terms of status and was deserving of respect and worship.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Tiger]]: A tiger represented the king's courage.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Monkey]]: A monkey symbolized wisdom.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Rice]]: As the people needed rice to live, the king was compared to this foodstuff as he had the responsibility of protecting their welfare.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Axe]]: This indicated that the king had the ability to save and take lives.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Water plant]]: Another depiction of the king's magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

=====''Jeokui''=====

'''''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]''''' or '''''Tseogwi''''' ({{Korean|hangul=적의}}) was arranged through the use of different colors as a status symbol within the royal family.<ref name="Jeokui">Lee Eun-ju, [http://navercast.naver.com/contents.nhn?rid=92&contents_id=11084 "Jeokui"], "Naver Cast", 2012/07/31</ref> The empress wore purple-red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue.<ref name="Jeokui" /> "Jeok" means pheasant, and so Jeokui often had depictions of pheasants embroidered onto it.<ref name="Jeokui" />

====Cheolique====
'''''[[Terlig|Cheolique]]''''' (Alt. Cheolick or Cheollik) (Hangul: 철릭) was a Korean adaptation of the [[Terlig|Mongol tunic]], imported in the late 1200s during the [[Goryeo dynasty]]. Cheolique, unlike other forms of Korean clothing, is an amalgamation of a blouse with a kilt into a single item of clothing. The flexibility of the clothing allowed easy horsemanship and archery. During the [[Joseon dynasty]], they continued to be worn by the king, and military officials for such activities.<ref name="Cheolique">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=563301&categoryId=1646 "Cheolique"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations.<ref name="Cheolique" /> A unique characteristic allowed the detachment of the Cheolique's sleeves which could be used as a bandage if the wearer was injured in combat.<ref name="Cheolique" />


====Ayngsam====
'''''[[Panling Lanshan|Ayngsam]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=앵삼|hanja=鶯衫}}) was the formal clothing for students during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies.<ref name="Aengsam">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=580178&categoryId=1646 "Aengsam"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> If the highest-scoring student was young, the king awarded him with red-colored Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> It was similar to the [[Panling Lanshan|namsam]] ({{Korean|hangul=난삼|hanja=襴衫}}) but with a different colour.<ref>{{Cite web|title=난삼(襴(幱)衫) - 한국민족문화대백과사전|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0011701|access-date=2021-05-09|website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref>


===Accessories===
[[File:Hanbok accessories.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} accessories]]

==== Binyeo ====

'''''[[Binyeo]]''''' or '''''Pinyeo''''' (Hangul: 비녀) was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different-shaped tip again depending on social status.<ref name="Binyeo">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1105813&categoryId=200000392 "Binyeo"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix-shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or [[Japanese apricot]] flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=36151&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)"], "C News041", 2012/04/17</ref> And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mhj21.com/9863|title=≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀|website=문화저널21|access-date=2019-03-26}}</ref>

====Daenggi====
'''''[[Daenggi]]''''' is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair.

====Norigae====

'''''[[Norigae]]''''' (Hangul: 노리개) was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks.<ref name="Norigae">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1076917&categoryId=200000392 "Norigae"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref><ref name=":14">{{Cite book|last=Yi|first=Kyŏng-ja|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/71358055|title=Norigae : splendor of the Korean Costume|date=2005|publisher=Ewha Womans University Press|others=Lee Jean Young|isbn=89-7300-618-5|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=12–13|oclc=71358055}}</ref> However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae.<ref name=":14" />

====Danghye====
'''''Danghye''''' or '''''Tanghye''''' (Hangul: 당혜) were shoes for married women in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Danghye">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=534624&categoryId=1646 "Danghye"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, [[pomegranates]], [[chrysanthemums]], or [[peonies]]: these were symbols of longevity.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=29559&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)"], "C News041", 2012/11/27</ref>

=====''Kunghye''=====
Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as '''''Kunghye''''' (Hangul: 궁혜), and they were usually patterned with flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

=====''Onhye''=====
Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as '''''Onhye''''' (Hangul: 온혜).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

== See also ==
{{Portal|Fashion}}
*[[List of Korean clothing]]
*[[Hanfu]] - a Chinese equivalent.
*[[Việt phục]] - a Vietnamese equivalent.
*[[Wafuku]] - a Japanese equivalent.

== Notes ==
{{reflist|group=note|30em}}

==Footnotes==
{{Reflist|30em}}

==References==
{{Refbegin}}
* An, Myung Sook (안명숙); Kim, Yong Ser (김용서) {{in lang|ko}} 1998. ''Hanʼguk poksiksa'' (한국복식사). Seoul. Yehaksa (예학사) {{ISBN|978-89-89668-11-4}}
* Kim, Ki Sun (김기선). {{in lang|ko}} 2005. [http://www.dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?pid=734&isid=33818&arid=710104&topMenu=&topMenu1= '' Information about Mongolian pigtail'' 몽골의 辮髮에 대하여]. The Institute of Asian Ethno-Forms and Culture. v. 5, 81-97
* Kim, Moon Ja {{in lang|ko}}, 2004. [http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 ''A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the Globalism''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110102004542/http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 |date=2 January 2011 }} (고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 7.1, 7-15
* Lee, Kyung-Ja (이경자) {{in lang|ko}}, 2003, [https://books.google.com/books?id=ZSjyNv61pT4C ''Uri ot ŭi chŏnt'ong yangsik'' (우리옷의 전통양식 The Traditional Style of Korean Clothes)] [[Ewha Womans University]] Press. {{ISBN|89-7300-514-6}}
*{{cite book|last= Levinson|first= David |title=Encyclopedia of modern Asia, Volume 2|publisher= Charles Scribner's Sons|pages= 120–121|year= 2002|isbn= 978-0-684-80617-4}}
* McCallion, Aleasha; Condra, Jill. 2008. ''[https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History]''. [[Greenwood Publishing Group]]. p. 221 - 228, {{ISBN|0-313-33664-4}}
* Nelson, Sarah. 1993. ''The archaeology of Korea''. [[Cambridge University Press]]. {{ISBN|0-521-40783-4}}
* You, Soon Lye (유순례) {{in lang|ko}} 2006, ''Comparative Research on the Costume Aesthetic Korean & Mongolia'' (몽골과 한국의 전통복식 미의식 비교에 대한 연구), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 6, 183-185
{{Refend}}

==External links==
*{{Commons category-inline}}
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-evolution Hanbok History Evolution]
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-infographic Hanbok History Infographic]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071113153646/http://myhome.naver.com/korean_dress/history1.htm History of Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071021095831/http://goldhanbok.com/data/data_kind.asp Information about Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm Traditional Korean Clothing] - Life in Korea
* [http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp Official Korea Tourism Organization - Hanbok Clothing] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161013070712/http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp |date=13 October 2016 }}

{{Folk costume}}
{{Timeline of clothing and fashion}}

[[Category:Korean culture]]
[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]

Hanbok

2023-02-02T03:31:41Z

182.225.106.69: This is the article introducing Traditional Korean Clothes, not Chinese Clothes. It's true Banbi was introduced from China, but it appears in different aspects one another in China, Korea, and Japan.

{{Short description|Traditional Korean clothing}}
{{distinguish|Hanfu}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2020}}
{{Italic title}}{{Infobox clothing type|title=Hanbok|material=Diverse|location=Present-day [[North Korea]], [[South Korea]], [[Manchuria]]|image_file=[[File:Hanbok (female and male).jpg|Hanbok (female and male)|150px]]|caption=Typical designs of hanbok, traditional Korean dress|introduced=At least since [[Goguryeo]] period}}{{Infobox transliteration
| skhangul = {{linktext|한복}}
| skhanja = {{linktext|韓服}}
| skrr = Hanbok
| skmr = Hanbok
| nkhangul = {{linktext|조선옷}}
| nkhanja = {{linktext|朝鮮}}옷
| nkrr = Joseon-ot
| nkmr = Chosŏn-ot
| ibox-order =
| c =
| altname =
| l = Korean (ethnic) clothing
}}
The '''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=한복|hanja=韓服|rr=hanbok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=[[Koreans|Korean]] clothing}}; term used in [[South Korean standard language|South Korea]]), also called '''{{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮服|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) is traditional Korean clothing. It is worn not only by South and [[North Korea]], but also by the [[Koreans in China|joseon-jok]] (Korean-Chinese), a minority group in [[China]].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Zang |first=Yingchun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/57675221 |title=Zhongguo shao shu min zu fu shi |last2= |date=2007 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |others=臧迎春. |isbn=978-7-5085-0379-0 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |oclc=57675221}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title={{!}} Minority Ethnic Clothing : Korean (Chaoxianzu) Clothing |url=http://baoku.gmu.edu/exhibits/show/minority-ethnic-clothing/korean-clothing |access-date=2022-08-23 |website=baoku.gmu.edu}}</ref> The term {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} literally means “Korean clothing.”<ref>Korean Culture and Information Service, 2018, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea</ref> Due to the isolation from each other for about 50 years, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in [[South Korea]], North Korea, and joseonjok, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}<ref name=":24" /> Since the 1990s, the South Korean-style and the North Korean-style have been looking more and more similar to each other.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=In-Woo |date=2006 |title=Change in Hanbok of South and North Korea after the Division and the Interexchange -Focusing on Women's Jeogori- |url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200612842609717.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles |volume=30 |issue=1 |pages=106–114 |issn=1225-1151}}</ref> Similarly, since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in joseonjok-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the joseonjok-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South-Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

Earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the [[Yemaek|Proto-Koreanic people]] of what is now [[Geography of North Korea|northern Korea]] and [[Manchuria]]; it can also be found in the arts of the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals of the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD,<ref>The Dreams of the Living and the Hopes of the Dead-Goguryeo Tomb Murals, 2007, Ho-Tae Jeon, Seoul National University Press</ref> where the basic structure of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was established at least since this period. The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consisted of a {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top), {{transliteration|ko|[[baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants), {{transliteration|ko|[[Chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt), and the ''{{transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}'' (coat). The basic structure of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of [[Korean shamanism|Mu-ism]].<ref name=":16">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1253353500|title=Flags, color, and the legal narrative : public memory, identity, and critique|date=2021|publisher=Springer|others=Anne Wagner, Sarah Marusek|isbn=978-3-030-32865-8|location=Cham, Switzerland|pages=125|oclc=1253353500}}</ref> These basic structural features of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} remains relatively unchanged to this day. However, present-day {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, which is worn nowadays, is patterned after the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} worn in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]],<ref name=":16" /> especially those worn by the nobility and royalty.<ref name=":7">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927 |title=Passport to Korean culture. |date=2009 |publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-153-2 |edition=2009 |location=Seoul, Korea |oclc=680802927}}</ref>{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8">{{Cite book |last=Gwak |first=Sung Youn Sonya |title=Be(com)ing Korean in the United States: Exploring Ethnic Identity Formation Through Cultural Practices |publisher=[[Cambria Press]] |year=2006 |isbn=9781621969723}}</ref> In the past, however, commoners ({{transliteration|ko|seomin}}), were not allowed to wear what is now known as {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} and instead wore {{transliteration|ko|[[minbok]]}} (clothing of commoners) which was typically white or off-white in colours; the commoners were only allowed to wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} on their wedding day and on special occasions.<ref name=":7" />{{Rp|page=104}}<ref name=":8" /><ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Lopez Velazquez |first=Laura |date=2021 |title=Hanbok during the Goryeo and Joseon dynasty |url=https://www.korea.net/TalkTalkKorea/Korean/community/community/CMN0000009345 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=www.korea.net}}</ref> The extensive use of white clothing among the commoners lead to Korea being referred as "dressed people of white".<ref name=":10" /> Nowadays, contemporary Koreans wear {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} for formal or semi-formal occasions and events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. In 1996, the South Korean [[Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism]] established "{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} Day" to encourage South Korean citizens to wear the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}.<ref>{{Cite web |last=쿠키뉴스 |date=2014-09-15 |title=한복데이, 전국 5개 도시서 펼쳐진다 |url=http://www.kukinews.com/newsView/kuk201409150150 |access-date=2022-03-11 |website=쿠키뉴스 |language=ko}}</ref>

== Etymology ==
The first recorded evidence of the name ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' is from an 1881 document {{transliteration|ko|Jeongchiilgi}}《{{Korean|hangul=정치일기|labels=no}}》.<ref name=":52">역사 속의 우리 옷 변천사, 2009, Chonnam National University Press</ref><ref>{{Cite web|last=김여경|date=2010|title=2000년 이후 인쇄매체에 나타난 한복의 조형미 연구|url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=DIKO0011925322|access-date=2021-07-24|website=ScienceON|language=KO}}</ref> In the document, {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} was used to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese traditional clothing and Western clothing. ''{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}}'' was used in an 1895 document describing the assassination of [[Empress Myeongseong]] to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese clothing. The origin of the name remains unclear, because these documents predate the [[Korean Empire]] ({{Korean|hangul=대한제국}}) which popularized the [[hanja]] character {{transliteration|ko|Han}} ({{Hanja|韓}})''.''

Beginning in 1900, Korean newspapers used the hanja character ''{{transliteration|ko|Han}}'' ({{Hanja|韓}}) in words that describe Korean clothing, such as {{Transliteration|ko|hanguguibok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국의복}}), {{Transliteration|ko|hangugyebok}} ({{Korean|hangul=한국예복}}) and {{Transliteration|ko|daehannyeobok}} ({{Korean|hangul=대한녀복}}). Hanbok was used in a 1905 newspaper article, which described the [[righteous army]] wearing Korean clothing. After the [[March 1st Movement]], ''hanbok'' became a significant ethnic symbol of Koreans.

Influenced by rising nationalism in the 1900s, ''{{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'' became a word that meant the unique Korean clothing that can be distinguished from that of foreigners, such as Japanese, Western, and Chinese clothing. Other words with the same meaning, {{Transliteration|ko|uriot}} ({{Korean|hangul=우리옷}}) and {{Transliteration|ko|joseonot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷}}), were concurrently used. {{Transliteration|ko|Joseonot}}, which was more popular in the north, replaced the other words in North Korea after the [[division of Korea]].

==Construction and design==
[[File:Hanbok scheme.svg|thumb|{{ubl|A diagram of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}'s anatomy|1. {{transliteration|ko|hwajang}}|2. {{transliteration|ko|godae}}|3. {{transliteration|ko|somae buri}}|4. {{transliteration|ko|somae}}|5. {{transliteration|ko|goreum}}|6. {{transliteration|ko|u}}|7. {{transliteration|ko|doryeon}}|8, 11. {{transliteration|ko|jindong}}|9. {{transliteration|ko|gil}}|10. {{transliteration|ko|baerae}}|12. {{transliteration|ko|git}}|13. {{transliteration|ko|dongjeong}}}}]]

Traditionally, women's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of the {{transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (top) and the {{transliteration|ko|[[chima (clothing)|chima]]}} (skirt). The ensemble is often known as {{transliteration|ko|'[[chima jeogori]]'}}. Men's {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and loose fitting {{transliteration|ko|baji}} (trousers).<ref name="KBS">{{cite web |url=http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |title=Traditional clothing |publisher=[[KBS (Korea)|KBS Global]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080317124313/http://english.kbs.co.kr/korea/culture/clothing/ink_clt.html |archive-date=2008-03-17 }}</ref> On top of this ensemble, there are also a variety of vests, jackets and coats. For men, some examples are {{transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}}, {{transliteration|ko|[[dopo (clothing)|dopo]]}}, Danryeong-ui, Joong-chimak, Sochang-ui, Daechang-ui, etc. For women, there are Jang-sam, Dan-sam, [[Wonsam|Won-sam]], and more.

==={{transliteration|ko|Jeogori}}===
The {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is the basic upper garment of the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, worn by both men and women. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.<ref name="Doosan">{{cite web |url=http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090315034024/http://map.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?&masterno=133796&contentno=133796 |archive-date=2009-03-15 }}</ref><ref name="HanbokBritannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=183581&v=47 |script-title=ko:저고리 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-29 |language=ko}}</ref> The basic form of a {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} consists of ''gil'', ''git'', ''dongjeong'', ''goreum'' and sleeves. ''Gil'' ([[Hangul]]: 길) is the large section of the garment on both front and back sides, and ''git'' ([[Hangul]]: 깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. ''Dongjeong'' ([[Hangul]]: 동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the ''git'' and is generally squared off. The ''goreum'' ([[Hangul]]: 고름) are fabric-strings that tie the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}}.<ref name="KBS" /> Women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} may have ''kkeutdong'' ([[Hangul]]: 끝동), a different colored [[cuff]] placed at the end of the sleeves. There are two {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} artifacts that may be the earliest surviving archaeological artifact. One from a [[Yangcheon Heo clan]] tomb is dated 1400–1450,<ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand">{{cite web |url=http://www.jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210224210339/https://jeogori.org/en/entry/Before1910s |url-status=dead |archive-date=24 February 2021 |title=Jeogori Before 1910 |publisher=Gwangju Design Biennale |access-date=2009-06-27 }}</ref> while the other was discovered inside a statue of the Buddha at Sangwonsa Temple (presumably left as an offering) that has been dated to the 1460s.<ref name="Important Folklore Materials 219">{{cite web |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |title=Sejodaeuihoejangjeogori |publisher=Cultural Heritage Administration, South Korea |access-date=2009-06-27 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120216190456/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:32&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004001&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=141&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-16 }}</ref>
[[File:Korea-Busan-Beomeosa-04.jpg|thumb|Jeogori and chima]]

The form of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} has changed over time.<ref name="Britannica" /> While men's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} remained relatively unchanged, women's {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} became dramatically shortened during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty, reaching its shortest length at the late 19th century. However, due to reformation efforts and practical reasons, late modern ''jeogori'' for women was longer than its earlier counterpart with its length still above the waistline There are various styles and types of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} varying in fabric, sewing technique, and shape.<ref name="Britannica" /><ref name="Jeogori Reborns with New Visions of a Thousand" /> Contemporary {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} are presently designed with various lengths.

The early form of {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is hypothesized to have originated or have been influenced by {{transliteration|ko|[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]}}, nomadic dress typically worn by northern nomadic people in Asia.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=김문자 |date=2004 |title=[논문]고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치 |trans-title=A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of te Hanbok on the Globalism |url=http://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=NART56146983 |journal=韓服文化 = Journal of Korean Traditional Constume |language=KO |volume=7 |issue=1 |pages=7–15 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref>{{NoteTag|Hobok (pronounced Hufu in Chinese) was a term which referred to non-Chinese clothing in opposition to [[Hanfu]]; by definition, it does not only apply to nomadic clothing.}} Hobok characteristics of the ancient ''jeogori'' include: the closure on the front<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계2">{{cite journal |title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |volume=20(1) |pages=61–77 |doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61 |doi-access=free}}</ref> closing to the left side in Jwa-im (左袵, 좌임), narrow sleeves, and both men and women wearing trousers, even under chima.<ref name=":23">{{cite web |last=Kim |first=Munja |title=우리역사넷 |url=http://contents.history.go.kr/front/km/view.do?levelId=km_009_0030_0010 |website=National Institute of Korean History}}</ref> There is also Hanbok that was influenced by a more tropical style in Southern parts of the Korean Peninsula which lacked trousers and had a one-piece style.<ref>{{Cite web |title=주호국 - 나무위키 |url=https://namu.wiki/w/%EC%A3%BC%ED%98%B8%EA%B5%AD |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=namu.wiki}}</ref>

Most modern {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} is closed to the right which is a fashion trend from what is now mainland [[Ru (upper garment)|China.]] The closure of the {{transliteration|ko|jeogori}} to the right is an imitation of [[Ru (upper garment)|Han Chinese jackets]],<ref name=":73">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/700141350 |title=Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011 |date=2010 |publisher=Réunion des musées nationaux |others=Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet |isbn=978-2-7118-5759-3 |location=Paris |pages=68 |language=fr |oclc=700141350 |quote="[...] la veste [[jeogori|chogori]] se ferme ensuite sur la droite à l'imitation des [[ru (upper garment)|vestes chinoises]]"}}</ref> this style of closure is called ''Woo-Yim'' ({{Korean|hangul=우임|hanja=右衽}}; {{Lang-zh|c=右衽|p=yòurèn}}) and originated in the [[Shang dynasty]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yu |first=Song-Ok |date=1980 |title=A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198020336527455.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=3 |pages=29–46 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref>

==== Goreum ====
Traditionally, there are many types of ''goreum. Goreum'' refers to strings of cloth that fasten clothes together. Fabric ''goreum'' were potentially used since [[Gojoseon]]. They were originally practical but often decorative. [[Silla]] had regulations against types of ''Dae'' (belts) and decorative ''goreum'' for each [[Bone-rank system|Golpoom]]. Southern parts of Korea, including [[Silla]], had a colorful ''goreum'' on the front of the neck, which influenced [[Yayoi period|Yayoi]] culture. Parts of [[Goguryeo]] style had a fabric ''goreum'' loop around the waist with a decorative ribbon to the side like a belt. Generally, thin and short ones were used on the inside and more decorative, colourful ones were used on the outside. Since the early form of the ''jeogori'' was usually wrapped across the front, the outside ''goreum'' was placed on the side of the wearer, below the armpit. Starting in [[Joseon|Joseon Dynasty]], the ''goreum'' slowly moved to the front of the ''jeogori''. In the 20th century, the ''goreum'' became the commonly known long and wide decorative ribbons on the front of the ''jeogori'' and was coined the ''Ot-goreum.''

==== Danchu ====
Other than fabric strings, danchu (buttons) were also used. There are many types of danchu.<ref>{{Cite web |title=단추 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0013683 |access-date=2022-07-09 |website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref> One example is the Maedeup-danchu which were often used to keep symmetrical collars together in the front and used for practical uses on military uniforms and court uniforms. They have long horizontal lines on either side like [[Qing dynasty|Manchurian]] buttons or looked like a ball and lasso. Magoja-danchu are often big decorative metal, gems or stones buttons usually on Jokki (vest).

===Chima===
''Chima'' refers to "skirt", and is also called ''sang'' ({{linktext|裳}}) or ''gun'' ({{linktext|裙}}) in [[hanja]].<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=268156&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture|EncyKorea]] |language=ko}}</ref><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=191326&v=45 |script-title=ko:치마 |publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[Britannica]] |language=ko}}</ref> The underskirt, or [[petticoat]] layer, is called ''sokchima''. ''Chima-malgi'' is the waistband that trims the top of the ''chima''. From [[Goguryeo]]<ref name="Doosan" /> to [[Joseon Dynasty|Joseon]] period, various styles of ''chima'' existed such as striped, pleated, patchworked, and [[Gore (segment)|gored]] skirts. ''Chima'' were typically made from rectangular panels that were [[pleat]]ed or [[gather (sewing)|gathered]] into the ''chima-malgi'' (waistband).<ref name="CHA">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials:117-23 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175740/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_db=2&v_doc_no=00003619&v_disp_type=1&v_list=0 |archive-date=2012-02-27 |access-date=2010-01-07 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref> This waistband also had ''goreum'' strings for fastening the skirt around the body.<ref name="CHA2">{{cite web |title=Important Folklore Materials: 229-1-4. Skirt belonging to a Jinju Ha clan woman, who died in 1646 |url=http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4%3A22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227175748/http://www.ocp.go.kr:9000/ne_dasencgi/full.cgi?v_kw_str=&v_db_query=A4:22&v_db=2&v_doc_no=00004021&v_dblist=2&v_start_num=71&v_disp_type=4 |archive-date=2012-02-27 |access-date=2010-01-07 |publisher=[[Cultural Heritage Administration]]}}</ref>

==== Goguryeo ====
According to the murals of [[Goguryeo]] and an earthen toy excavated from the neighbourhood of [[Hwangnam-dong]], [[Gyeongju]], Goguryeo women usually wore the ''jeogori'' over the ''chima,'' covering the top of the chima.<ref name="Koreana">{{cite journal |url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html |title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development |author=Cho, Woo-hyun |publisher=Koreana |volume=9 |issue=3 }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle">{{cite web |url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷 |trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing |publisher=Korea the sense |language=ko |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp |archive-date=2012-03-02 }}</ref> One popular fashion was the A-line ''chima''.

==== Goryeo ====
Variety of chima was worn during the [[Goryeo]] dynasty.

==== Joseon ====
Variety of chima was worn during the [[Joseon]] dynasty.

==== Late modern period ====
''Sokchima'' was largely made in a traditional way until the early 20th century when shoulder straps were added,<ref name="GoodPeople">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=2010-01-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507071544/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight07.htm |archive-date=May 7, 2010 }}</ref> later developing into a sleeveless bodice or "reformed" petticoat called ''Eo-Kkeh-Heo-ri-Chima''.<ref name="GoodPeople2">{{cite web|url=http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |title=World Underwear History: Enlightenment Era |publisher=Good People Co. Ltd. |access-date=2010-01-07 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100507072422/http://www.j.co.kr/UnderwearHistory/korean/under_elight08.htm |archive-date=May 7, 2010 }}</ref> By the mid-20th century, some outer ''chima'' also gained a sleeveless bodice, which was then covered by the ''jeogori''.<ref name="RecycleLACMARedSkirt">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/red-korean-skirt-chima_01.html |title=Recycle LACMA: Red Korean Skirt |date=June 2009 |publisher=Robert Fontenot |access-date=2010-01-07 }}</ref><ref name="RecycleLACMA">{{cite web|url=http://recyclelacma.blogspot.com/2009/06/purple-korean-skirt-chima_01.html|title=Recycle LACMA: Purple Korean Skirt|date=June 2009|publisher=Robert Fontenot|access-date=2010-01-07}}</ref>

===Baji===
''[[Baji (clothing)|Baji]]'' refers to the bottom part of the men's hanbok. It is the formal term for "trousers" in Korean. Compared to western style pants, baji does not fit tightly. The roomy design is aimed at making the clothing ideal for sitting on the floor and an ethnic style that dates back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three kingdoms period]].<ref name="asia-planet.net">{{cite web|url=http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm|title=Korea Information|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140406184640/http://www.asia-planet.net/korea/traditional-clothing.htm|archive-date=6 April 2014|url-status=dead}}</ref> It functions as modern trousers do and the term ''baji'' is commonly used in Korea to refer to every kind of pants.

The ''baji-malgi'' is a waistband of the baji that has a long string of ''goreum''.

Baji can be unlined trousers, leather trousers, silk pants, or cotton pants, depending on style of dress, sewing method, embroidery and so on.

===Po===
''[[Po (clothing)|Po]]'' is a generic term referring to an outer [[robe]] or [[overcoat]]. There are two general types of ''po'', the Korean type and the Chinese type.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

The Korean type is a common style from the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period, and it is used in the modern day.<ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture">{{cite web|url=http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=531496&cid=46671&categoryId=46671 |script-title=ko:포 (袍)|publisher=[[Encyclopedia of Korean Culture]] |access-date=2015-04-23 |language=ko}}</ref> There were many ways to fasten the coat but mainly a belt was used in conjunction with a ribbon ''goreum'' until the ribbon ''goreum'' became mainstream during late Joseon dynasty. ''[[Durumagi]]'' is a type of ''po'' that was worn for protection against the cold. It has been widely worn as an outer robe over ''jeogori'' and ''baji''. It is also called ''jumagui'', ''juchaui'', or ''juui''.<ref name="EncyKorea" /><ref name="Doosan" /><ref name="Britannica1">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=128263&v=45 |script-title=ko:두루마기 |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |access-date=2008-09-30 |language=ko}}</ref>

The Chinese type consist of different types of ''po'' from mainland China. Starting from the [[Northern and Southern States period|North–South states period]], they were mainly adopted as court uniforms that localized into Korean culture throughout history. In 1895, there was a nation-wide adoption of the Korean type ''durumagi'' to regulate clothes and luxury items.<ref name="Encyclopedia of Korean Culture" />

<gallery>
File:King Taejo Yi 02.jpg|''[[Dragon robe]]'' (or ikseongwanpo): business attire for king
File:Portrait of King Yeongjo - Chae Yong Shin (蔡龍臣 1850-1941) Cho Seok-jin (趙錫晉 1853-1920) et (cropped).jpg|''Hongryongpo'': everyday clothes for king
File:Emper Kojong.jpg|alt=Hwangryongpo: everyday clothes for emperor styled after the Chinese imperial robe. Gojong began to wear the yellow robe once restricted only to the Chinese emperors.|''Hwangryongpo'': everyday clothes for a Sino-sphere emperor styled after the Chinese imperial robe. Once restricted to Chinese emperors, Gojong began to wear the yellow robe after establishing the Korean Empire.
File:Korea-Portrait of Emperor Gojong-01.jpg|''Tongcheongwan'' and ''Gangsapo''
</gallery>

=== Deot-ot ===
''Deot-ot'' refers to a category of outer layers worn on top of the ''jeogori''. Po also falls under this category. There are many varieties other than the ones listed here.

==== Banbi ====
''Banbi'' refers to a variety of short sleeved garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It was imported from [[Tang Dynasty]], and first appeared in [[Unified Silla Dynasty]]. It was worn by aristocrats of Unified Silla Dynasty.

==== Bigap ====
A sleeveless outer garment that was derived from [[Mongol Empire|Mongolian]] clothing worn during the [[Goryeo]] period.<ref>[http://contents.history.go.kr/front/nh/view.do?levelId=nh_009_0040_0050_0010_0020_0050 "반비 - 우리역사넷"], Historynet of National Institute of Korean History. 2023-02-02</ref>

==== Baeja and Kwaeja ====
Baeja refers to sleeveless outer garments that are worn on top of inner garments. It can be different lengths, short to long. ''Kwaeja'' is interchangeable with ''Baeja,'' but ''Kwaeja'' often refers to men's clothing''.''

==== Dapho ====
The [[dapho]] is a short sleeved men's outer garment, often part of military uniform or official uniform.

==== ''Jokki'' ====
''Jokki'' ({{Lang-ko|조끼}}) is a type of [[vest]], while ''[[magoja]]'' is an outer jacket. The ''jokki'' was created around late [[Joseon dynasty]], as [[Western culture]] began to affect Korea.

==== ''Magoja'' ====
''Magoja'' was originally styled after the clothing of the [[Manchu people]], and was introduced to Korea after [[Heungseon Daewongun]], the father of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], returned from his political [[exile]] in [[Tianjin]] in 1887.<ref name="Britannica1" /><ref name="Life in Korea">{{cite web |title=Men's Clothing |url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/Culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=male |access-date=2008-11-01 |publisher=Life in Korea}}</ref> Long sleeved ''Magoja'' were derived from the ''[[Magua (clothing)|magwae]]'' he wore in exile because of the cold climate there. Owing to its warmth and ease of wear, ''magoja'' became popular in Korea. It is also called ''"deot jeogori"'' (literally "an outer ''jeogori''") or ''magwae''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

''Magoja'' does not have a ''git'', the band of fabric trimming the collar.<ref name="KBS" /> ''Magoja'' was originally a male garment but later became [[unisex]]. The ''magoja'' for men sometimes has ''seop'' ({{korean|hangul=섶}}, overlapped column on the front) and is longer than women's ''magoja'', with both sides open at the bottom. A ''magoja'' can be made of [[silk]] and often adorned with ''danchu'' which are usually made from [[amber]]. In men's ''magoja'', buttons are attached to the right side, as opposed to the left as in women's ''magoja''.<ref name="Britannica1" />

===Children's hanbok===
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok for children-01.jpg|thumb|Children's hanbok]]

Traditionally, ''[[Kkachi durumagi]]'' (literally "a magpie's overcoat") were worn as ''seolbim'' ([[Hangul]]: 설빔), new clothing and shoes worn on the Korean celebration of [[Korean New Year]],, while at present, it is worn as a ceremonial garment for ''[[doljanchi|dol]]'', the celebration for a baby's first birthday.<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi">{{cite web|url=http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 | publisher=[[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] / [[EncyKorea]] | access-date=2008-09-30 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610044200/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=241774&v=45 | archive-date=2011-06-10 | language=ko}}</ref><ref name="dol">{{cite web|url=http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|title=Geocities.com|publisher=Julia's Cook Korean site|access-date=2007-11-29|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091027145013/http://www.geocities.com/ypmljulia/cooking/dol.htm|archive-date=2009-10-27|url-status=dead}}</ref> It is a children's colorful overcoat.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://engdic.daum.net/dicen//view_detail.do?q=%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2%B8%A6%20%C0%D4%C0%BA%20%B3%B2%BE%C6%B1%EE%C4%A1%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&qalias=K144180 |script-title=ko:까치두루마기 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] Korean-English Dictionary |language=ko, en }}{{dead link|date=December 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> It was worn mostly by young boys.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?33064&contentno=33064|title=Encyber.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}{{dead link|date=October 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The clothes is also called ''obangjang durumagi'' which means "an overcoat of five directions".<ref name="EncyKorea Kkachi" /> It was worn over ''jeogori'' (a jacket) and ''jokki'' (a vest), while the wearer could put ''[[jeonbok]]'' (a long vest) over it. ''Kkachi durumagi'' was also worn along with [[headgear]] such as ''[[bokgeon]]'' (a peaked cloth hat),<ref>[http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc The Groom's Wedding Attire] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423212820/http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/14-Wedding/14-03spr-traditional.doc |date=2009-04-23 }} Academia Koreana of Keimyung University</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|title=What are the traditional national clothes of Korea?|access-date=8 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160110071752/http://www.dprk-tour.com/sub03/04.php|archive-date=10 January 2016|url-status=dead|df=dmy-all}}</ref> ''hogeon'' (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or ''[[gulle]]'' (decorative headgear) for young girls.<ref name="Doosan" />{{Request quotation|date=May 2015}}<ref name="tour2korea">{{cite web|url=http://visitkorea.or.kr/ena/CU/CU_EN_8_3_2.jsp |title=Hanboks (Traditional Clothings) |work=Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok |publisher=[[Korea Tourism Organization]] |access-date=2008-10-06}}</ref>[[File:Children dressed in Korean traditional clothing at the opening ceremony for Old Korean Legation - 2018 (42300672731).jpg|thumb|Children in [[Washington DC]] wearing {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}]]

=== Foreign influences in design ===
The clothing of Korea's rulers and aristocrats after AD 7, was influenced by both foreign and [[Indigenous peoples|indigenous]] styles, including significant influences from various [[Chinese dynasties]], resulting in some styles of clothing, such as the {{transliteration|zh|[[Shenyi|simui]]}} from [[Song dynasty]],<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Kim |first=In-Suk |date=1977 |title=심의고(深依考) |url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO197720336527429.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=1 |pages=101–117 |issn=1229-6880}}</ref> ''[[gwanbok]]'' worn by male officials were generally adopted from and/or influenced by the court clothing system of the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]],<ref name=":22" /><ref name=":17">{{Cite journal |last=Kyu-Seong |first=Choi |date=2004 |title=A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200430710432076.page |journal=The Research Journal of the Costume Culture |volume=12 |issue=6 |pages=1060–1069 |issn=1226-0401}}</ref> [[Song dynasty|Song]],<ref name=":17" /> and [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]],<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1059514121 |title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia |date=2018 |others=Kyunghee Pyun, Aida Yuen Wong |isbn=978-3-319-97199-5 |location=Cham, Switzerland |pages=116 |oclc=1059514121}}</ref> and Court clothing of women in the court and women of royalty were adapted from the clothing style of [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] dynasties,<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/156808055 |title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history |date=2008 |others=Jill Condra |isbn=978-0-313-33662-1 |location=Westport, Connecticut |oclc=156808055}}</ref><ref>McCallion, 2008, p. 221 - 228</ref> the [[Terlig|''cheolik'']] from the Mongol clothing and bestowed from the Ming court,<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Cho |first1=Woohyun |last2=Yi |first2=Jaeyoon |last3=Kim |first3=Jinyoung |date=2015 |title=The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of the Terlig |url=https://akjournals.com/doi/10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae |language=en |volume=68 |issue=3 |pages=22–29 |doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2 |issn=0001-6446}}</ref> and the ''[[magoja]]'' from Manchu clothing.

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and [[Goryeo]] hanbok had cultural influence on some [[Fashion in Yuan dynasty|clothing of Yuan dynasty]] worn by the upper class (i.e. the clothing worn by Mongol royal women's clothing<ref name=":102" /> and in the Yuan imperial court<ref name=":0" />).<ref>고려(高麗)의 원(元)에 대(對)한 공녀(貢女),유홍렬,震檀學報,1957</ref> Commoners were less influenced by these foreign fashion trends, and mainly wore a style of indigenous clothing distinct from that of the upper classes.<ref name="Daum Global">{{cite web |script-title=ko:옷의 역사 |url=http://donation.enc.daum.net/wikidonation/ency.do?vol=008&code=005002003000000000 |publisher=[[Daum Communications|Daum]] / [[Global World Encyclopedia]] |language=ko}}</ref>

== Occasions ==
[[File:Korean.costume-Hanbok-wedding.bride-01.jpg|thumb|140px|''[[Hwarot]]'', bride clothes]]
Hanbok is classified according to its purposes: everyday dress, ceremonial dress, and special dress. Ceremonial dresses are worn on formal occasions, including a child's first birthday, a wedding, or a funeral. Special dresses are made for shamans and officials.<ref name="asia-planet.net"/>

Hanbok was worn daily up until just 100 years ago, it was originally designed to facilitate ease of movement. But now, it is only worn on festive occasions or special anniversaries.<ref>(Korea.net 2011, May Hanbok Korean Traditional clothes)</ref> It is a formal dress and most Koreans keep a hanbok for special times in their life such as wedding, Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving), and Seollnal (Korean New Year's), Children wear hanbok during their first birthday celebration ([[Hangul]]: 돌잔치) etc.<ref>{{cite web |title=Chuseok Hanbok |url=https://chuseok.org/chuseok-hanbok/ |website=Chuseok.org}}</ref> While the traditional hanbok was beautiful in its own right, the design has changed slowly over the generations. The core of hanbok is its graceful shape and vibrant colors, it is hard to think of hanbok as everyday wear but it is slowly being revolutionized through the changing of fabrics, colors and features, reflecting the desire of people.

Women's traditional {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} consist of jeogori, which is a type of jacket, and chima, which is a wrap around skirt that is usually worn with a petticoat underneath. A man's hanbok consists of jeogori (jacket) and baggy pants that are called baji. There are also additional outer layers, such as the Po which is an outer coat, or robe, jokki which is a type of vest and magoja which is an outer jacket worn over jeogori for warmth and style.<ref>Sarah H, Jeong (2006, February) Hanbok, Korean Traditional Dress</ref>

The color of hanbok symbolized social position and marital status. Bright colors, for example, were generally worn by children and girls, and muted hues by middle aged men and women. Unmarried women often wore yellow jeogori and red chima while matrons wore green and red, and women with sons donned navy. The upper classes wore a variety of colours. Contrastingly, commoners were required to wear white, but dressed in shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal on special occasions.

Also, the status and position can be identified by the material of the hanbok. The upper classes dressed in hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high grade lightweight materials in warmer months and of plain and patterned silks throughout the remainder of the year. Commoners, in contrast, were restricted to cotton. Patterns were embroidered on hanbok to represent the wishes of the wearer. Peonies on a wedding dress, represented a wish for honor and wealth. Lotus flowers symbolized a hope for nobility, and bats and pomegranates showed the desire for children. Dragons, phoenixes, cranes and tigers were only for royalty and high-ranking officials.<ref>Misie Lander (2017, January). Hanbok: An Introduction to South Korea's National Dress</ref>

==History==
=== Three Kingdoms of Korea ===
[[File:7th century painting of Koreans.png|thumb|7th-century Chinese [[Tang dynasty]] painting of envoys from the Three Kingdoms of Korea: Baekje, Goguryeo, and Silla.]]
The earliest visual depictions of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be traced back to the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]] period (57 BC to 668 AD).<ref>{{cite book|last1=Myeong-Jong|first1=Yoo|title=The Discovery of Korea: History-Nature-Cultural Heritages-Art-Tradition-Cities|date=2005|publisher=Discovery Media|isbn=978-8995609101|page=123}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-ZuImINv0soC&pg=PA366|title=Peoples of Eastern Asia|date=2004|publisher=Marshall Cavendish|isbn=9780761475545|editor1-last=Macdonald|editor1-first=Fiona|page=366|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name=":82">{{cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Samuel Songhoon|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ|title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition|date=2015|publisher=Seoul Selection|isbn=9781624120565|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref><ref name="KCIS2">{{cite book|last1=Korean Culture and Information Service (South Korea)|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=NoxoBgAAQBAJ&pg=PA90|title=Guide to Korean Culture: Korea's cultural heritage|date=2014|publisher=길잡이미디어|isbn=9788973755714|page=90|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> The origin of ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be found in the ancient clothing of what is now today's Northern Korea and [[Manchuria]].<ref name="Greenwood2">{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&pg=PA223|title=The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History, Volume II|date=2008|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|isbn=9780313336645|editor1-last=Condra|editor1-first=Jill|page=223|access-date=18 October 2019}}</ref> Some hypothesize that the {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} of antiquity can trace its origin to nomadic clothing of the [[Eurasian Steppes]] ([[Scythian clothing]]), spanning across Siberia from western Asia to Northeast Asia, interconnected by the [[Steppe Route]].<ref name="kim 7 154">Kim, Moon Ja, 2004, 7-15</ref><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035">Lee, Kyung-Ja, 2003</ref><ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계">{{cite journal|title=스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20(1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> Reflecting its [[nomad]]ic origins in western and northern Asia, ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} shared structural similarities with ''[[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]]'' type clothing of the nomadic cultures in East Asia'','' designed to facilitate horse-riding and ease of movement,<ref name=":52" /><ref name=":23"/><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22">{{cite journal|last1=김소희|last2=채금석|year=2018|title=Scythai's clothing type and style: Focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea|journal=한국의상디자인학회지|volume=20(1)|pages=61–77|doi=10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61|doi-access=free}}</ref> such as the use of trousers and jacket for male clothing and the use of left closure in its jacket.<ref name=":20">{{Cite journal |last=Chang |first=Youngsoo (Associate Professor, Department of Cultural Heritage, Gyeongju University) |date=2020 |title=Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types |script-title=ko:한국 고대복식의 스키타이 복식 유래설에 대한 실증적 검토 - 유물에 나타난 두 복식유형간의 공통점 및 차이점 분석 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE09329939 |journal=복식 |language=ko |volume=70 |issue=2 |pages=188–208 |doi=10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188}}</ref> However, although the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} reflects some similarity with the Scythian clothing, numerous differences between the two types of clothing have also been observed which led associated professor Youngsoo Chang from the Department of Cultural Properties in Gyeongju University in 2020 to suggest that the theory about Scythian clothing being the archetype of the ancient {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}}, a theory accepted as common knowledge in Korean academia, having to be revised.<ref name=":20" /> It is also important to note that the [[Goguryeo]] tomb murals were primarily painted in two geographical regions: [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]].<ref name=":022">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The former is the second capital of Goguryeo while the latter is the third capital of Goguryeo from the mid-fourth to the mid-seventh centuries.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}} While the mural paintings found in regions Ji'an typically shows the characteristics of Goguryeo people in terms of their customs and morals; those from the regions of Pyeongyang typically show the cultural influences of the [[Han dynasty]] as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years, including Chinese-style clothing.<ref name=":022" />{{Rp|page=15}}

==== Goguryeo ====
Early forms of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} can be seen in the art of [[Goguryeo tombs|Goguryeo tomb]] murals in the same period from the 4th to 6th century AD.<ref name="KCIS2" /><ref name="Greenwood2" /><ref name="한국의상디자인학회지22" /><ref>Nelson, 1993, p.7 & p.213-214</ref> Trousers, long jackets and ''twii'' (a sash-like belt) were worn by both men and women. Women wore skirts on top of their trousers. These basic structural and features of hanbok remain relatively unchanged to this day,<ref>{{cite web|author=[[Korea Tourism Organization]]|date=November 20, 2008|title=The beauty of Korean tradition - Hanbok|url=http://www.korea.net/news/News/LangView.asp?serial_no=20081111006|publisher=Korea.net}}</ref> except for the length and the ways the ''jeogori'' opening was closed as over the years.<ref name=":82" /> The ''jeogori'' opening was initially closed at the center front of the clothing, similar to a [[kaftan]] or closed to the left, before closing to the right side eventually became mainstream.<ref name=":82" /> Since the sixth century AD, the closing of the ''jeogori'' at the right became a standard practice.<ref name=":82" /> The length of the female ''jeogori'' also varied.<ref name=":82" /> For example, women's ''jeogori'' seen in Goguryeo paintings of the late 5th century AD are depicted shorter in length than the man's ''jeogori''.<ref name=":82" />

In early Goguryeo, the ''jeogori'' jackets were hip-length [[Kaftan]] tunics belted at the waist, and the ''po'' overcoats were full body-length Kaftan robes also belted at the waist. The pants were roomy, bearing close similarities to the pants found at [[Noin-Ula burial site|Xiongnu burial site of Noin Ula]].{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}} Some Goguryeo aristocrats wore roomy pants with tighter bindings at the ankle than others, which may have been status symbols along with length, cloth material, and colour. Women sometimes wore pants or otherwise wore pleated skirts. They sometimes wore pants underneath their skirts.<ref name=":15">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/843418851|title=Encyclopedia of national dress : traditional clothing around the world|date=2013|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-37637-5|location=Santa Barbara, Calif.|pages=409|oclc=843418851}}</ref>

Two types of ''hwa'' (shoes) were used, one covering only the foot, and the other covering up to the lower knee.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

During this period, [[Pointed hat|conical hat]] and its similar variants, sometimes adorned with long bird feathers,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=권준희 |date=2003 |title=The Jolpung(折風) shaped headgear of Koguryo(高句麗) and Shilla(新羅) |url=https://www.kci.go.kr/kciportal/ci/sereArticleSearch/ciSereArtiView.kci?sereArticleSearchBean.artiId=ART000851432 |journal=Journal of Korean Traditional Costume |language=kr |volume=6 |issue=3 |pages=6–84 |issn=1598-8295}}</ref> were worn as headgear.<ref name="스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계"/> Bird feather ornaments, and bird and tree motifs of golden crowns, are thought to be symbolic connections to the sky.{{Citation needed|date=August 2021}}

The Goguryeo period royal attire was known as ''ochaebok''.<ref name=":82"/> The precursor of what is now known as the ''[[durumagi]]'' was introduced during the Goguryeo period from a long coat worn by Northern Chinese.<ref name=":82" /> Originally the ''durumagi'' was worn by the upper class of Goguryeo for various ceremonies and rituals. It was later modified and worn by the general population.<ref name=":82" /> In Muyong-chong murals of ''[[Goguryeo]]'', there are male dancers in short jeogori with long flexible sleeves and female dancers wearing long coats with long flexible sleeves, all performing a dance. This type of long sleeves, similar to the Chinese [[Water sleeves|water-sleeves]], was passed down to Goryeo, Joseon, and present day [[Korean dance|Korean court dances]] and [[Korean shamanism|mu-ism]] rituals.{{Citation needed|date=July 2022}}

<gallery>
File:Goguryeo tomb mural.jpg|A Goguryeo man in a hunting attire from [[Capital Cities and Tombs of the Ancient Koguryo Kingdom]], 5th century A.D., Jilin province, China.
File:Goguryeo servants.jpg|Goguryeo servants wearing a Chima (skirt) and a long jeogori jacket, Goguryeo mural paintings in Jilin province, China, 5th-century AD.
File:Goguryeo tomb 07.jpg
File:수산리 고구려벽화.jpg
</gallery>

=== North-South States period ===
In the [[North-South States Period]] (698–926 AD), [[Silla]] and [[Balhae]] adopted ''[[dallyeong]]'', a [[circular-collar robe]] from the [[Tang dynasty]] of China.<ref>Lee, Tae-ok. Cho, Woo-hyun. Study on Danryung structure. Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference. 2003. pp. 49-49.</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Nam|first1=Min-yi|last2=Han|first2=Myung-Sook|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=http://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123}}</ref> In Silla, the ''[[Round collar robe|dallyeong]]'' was introduced by [[Muyeol of Silla]] in the second year of queen [[Jindeok of Silla]].<ref name=":1"/><ref name=":22"/> The ''dallyeong'' style from China was used as ''[[gwanbok]]'', a formal attire for government officials, grooms, and ''[[dragon robe]]'', a formal attire for royalty until the end of Joseon.<ref name=":1"/>

==== United Silla ====
The [[Silla]] Kingdom unified the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea|Three Kingdoms]] in 668 AD. The [[Later Silla|Unified Silla]] (668-935 AD) was the golden age of Korea. In Unified Silla, various silks, linens, and fashions were imported from [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] China and Persia. In the process, the latest fashions trend of [[Luoyang]] which included Chinese dress styles, the second capital of Tang, were also introduced to Korea, where the Korean silhouette became similar to the Western [[Empire silhouette]]. King [[Muyeol of Silla]] personally travelled to the [[Tang dynasty]] to voluntarily request for clothes and belts; it is however difficult to determine which specific form and type of clothing was bestowed although Silla requested the bokdu (幞頭; a form of hempen hood during this period), [[Round collar robe|danryunpo]] (團領袍; round collar gown), [[banbi]], baedang (䘯襠), and pyo (褾).<ref name=":22">{{Cite journal|last1=Yu|first1=Ju-Ri|last2=Kim|first2=Jeong-Mee|date=2006|title=A Study on Costume Culture Interchange Resulting from Political Factors|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=30|issue=3|pages=458–469}}</ref> Based on archaeological findings, it is assumed that the clothing which was brought back during Queen Jindeok rule are ''danryunpo'' and ''bokdu''.<ref name=":22"/> The bokdu also become part of the official dress code of royal aristocrats, court musicians, servants, and slaves during the reign of [[Jindeok of Silla|Queen Jindeok]]; it continued to be used throughout the Goryeo dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2013|publisher=길잡이미디어|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> In 664 AD, [[Munmu of Silla]] decreed that the costume of the queen should resemble the costume of the [[Tang dynasty]]; and thus, women's costume also accepted the costume culture of the [[Tang dynasty]].<ref name=":22"/> Women also sought to imitate the clothing of the Tang dynasty through the adoption of shoulder straps attached to their skirts and wore the skirts over the ''jeogori''.<ref name=":22"/><ref name=":21">{{Cite book|last=Lee|first=Samuel Songhoon.|url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/871061483|title=Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition|year=2013|isbn=978-89-97639-41-0|oclc=871061483}}</ref> The influence of the Tang dynasty during this time was significant and the Tang court dress regulations were adopted in the Silla court.<ref name=":15" /><ref name=":9">{{Cite book|last=Pratt|first=Keith L.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/42675362|title=Korea : a historical and cultural dictionary|date=1999|publisher=Curzon Press|others=Richard Rutt, James Hoare|isbn=978-0-7007-0464-4|location=Richmond, Surrey|pages=106|oclc=42675362}}</ref> The clothing of the Tang dynasty introduced in Silla made the clothing attire of Silla Court extravagant, and due to the extravagance, [[Heungdeok of Silla|King Heundeog]] enforced clothing prohibition during the year 834 AD.<ref name=":22" /> The general public of Silla continued to wear their own traditional clothing.<ref name=":22" />

<gallery>
File:Korea-National.Folk.Museum-01.jpg|Reconstruction of [[Silla]] king's and queen's attire
File:Gold Waist Belt from the North Mound of Hwangnamdaechong Tomb.jpg|Gold waist belt used by royalty of Silla.
File:신라 토용2.jpg|Women figures wearing Tang-dynasty style clothing, Silla.
</gallery>

==== Balhae ====
[[Balhae]] (698–926 AD) imported many various kinds of silk and cotton cloth from the Tang and diverse items from Japan including silk products and ramie. In exchange, Balhae would export fur and leather. The clothing culture of Balhae was heterogeneous; it was not only influenced by the Tang dynasty but also had inherited Goguryeo and indigenous [[Mohe people]] elements.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/864678409|title=A new history of Parhae|date=2012|publisher=Global Oriental|others=John B. Duncan, Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan |isbn=978-90-04-24299-9 |location=Leiden |oclc=864678409}}</ref> Early Balhae officials wore clothing appeared to continue the Three Kingdoms period tradition.<ref name=":4" /> However, after [[Mun of Balhae]], Balhae started to incorporate elements from the Tang dynasty, which include the ''putou'' and round collared gown for its official attire.<ref name=":4" /> Male everyday clothing was similar to Gogoryeo clothing in terms of its headgear; i.e. hemp or conical hats with bird feathers; they also wore leather shoes and belts.<ref name=":4" /> Women clothing appears to have adopted clothing from Tang dynasty (i.e. upper garment with long sleeves which is partially covered by a long skirts and shoes with curled tips to facilitate walking) but also wore the ''ungyeon'' (Yunjuan; a silk shawl) which started to appear after the demise of the Tang dynasty. The Ungyeon use is unique to late Balhae period and is distinctive from the shawl which was worn by the women of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":4" /> People from Balhae also wore fish-skin skirts and sea leopard leather top to keep warm.<ref name=":4" />

=== Goryeo dynasty ===
The Chinese style imported in the Northern-South period, however, did not affect {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} still used by the commoners,{{Citation needed|date=January 2022|reason=Need a clear source}} In the following Goryeo period, use of the Chinese Tang dynasty style of wearing the skirt over the top started to fade, and the wearing of top over skirt was revived in the aristocrat class.<ref name="Koreana2">{{cite journal|author=Cho, Woo-hyun|title=Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development|url=http://eng.actakoreana.org/clickkorea/text/13-Clothing/13-95aut-charateristics.html|publisher=Koreana|volume=9|issue=3}}{{dead link|date=December 2017|bot=InternetArchiveBot|fix-attempted=yes}}</ref><ref name="Hanstyle2">{{cite web|script-title=ko:유행과 우리옷|trans-title=Fashion and Korean clothing|url=http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120302181258/http://www.han-style.com/hanbok/history/hanbok_style.jsp|archive-date=2012-03-02|publisher=Korea the sense|language=ko}}</ref> The way of wearing the top under the chima (Tang-style influenced fashion) did not disappear in Goryeo and continued to coexist with the indigenous style of wearing of the top over skirt throughout the entire Goryeo dynasty; this Tang-style influenced fashion continued to be worn until the early Joseon dynasty and only disappeared in the middle and late Joseon periods.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=김남정|date=2000|title=조선시대 치마에 관한 연구|url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/184592}}</ref>

In [[Goryeo Buddhist paintings]], the clothing and headwear of royalty and nobles typically follows the clothing system of the [[Song dynasty]].<ref name=":72">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1154853080|title=A companion to Korean art|date=2020|others=J. P. Park, Burglind Jungmann, Juhyung Rhi|isbn=978-1-118-92702-1|location=Hoboken, NJ|pages=192|oclc=1154853080}}</ref> The Goryeo painting "Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara", for example, is a Buddhist painting which was derived from both Chinese and Central Asian pictorial references.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=436|oclc=38831761}}</ref> On the other hand, the Chinese clothing worn in [[Yuan dynasty]] rarely appeared in paintings of Goryeo.<ref name=":72" /> The Song dynasty system was later exclusively used by Goryeo Kings and Goryeo government officials after the period when [[Goryeo under Mongol rule|Goryeo was under Mongol rule]] (1270 –1356).<ref name=":18">{{Cite journal|last1=Chae|first1=Keum Seok|last2=Kim|first2=Eun Kyoung|date=2016|title=The Study on Costume Shapes through Goryeo Dynasty Paintings -Comparison with Song and Yuan Style-|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201608967046815.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles|volume=40|issue=6|pages=1116–1133|doi=10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.1116|issn=1225-1151}}</ref> However, even in the Buddhist painting of the late Goryeo, such as the ''Royal Palace Mandala'', the courting ladies are depicted in Tang and Song dynasty-style court dress clothing, which is a different style from the Mongol Yuan court.<ref name=":18" />

<gallery>
File:Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara (detailed view of patrons).jpg|Details of the ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'' painting shows a group of nobles (possibly the donors) dress in court clothing, Goryeo painting.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/38831761|title=Arts of Korea|date=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art|others=Yang-mo Chŏng, Judith G. Smith, Metropolitan Museum of Art|isbn=0-87099-850-1|location=New York|pages=435–436|oclc=38831761}}</ref>
File:Goryeohanbok.jpg|alt=A noblewoman's attire in Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara,It were chima jeogori,it was a Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.|Chima-jeogori, a noblewoman's attire in ''Water-Moon Avalokiteshvara'', Goryeo dynasty painting, 1323 AD.<ref name=":18" />
File:王宮曼荼羅図.jpg|Court ladies wearing the Tang and Song dynasty style clothing, from the painting ''Royal Palace Mandala'', late Goryeo
File:Goryeo lady joban.jpg|Portrait of Lady Jo ban (1341-1401 AD), Goryeo dynasty.
File:Korea-National.Treasure-110-Yi.Jehyung-portrait-NMK.jpg|Portrait of Yi Je-hyeon (1287–1367 AD) of the Goryeo dynasty, wearing [[Shenyi|simui]].
</gallery>Hanbok went through significant changes under Mongol rule. After the [[Goryeo]] dynasty signed a peace treaty with the [[Mongol Empire]] in the 13th century, Mongolian princesses who married into the Korean royal house brought with them Mongolian fashion which began to prevail in both formal and private life.<ref name=":22"/><ref name="Lee, Kyung-Ja, 20035" /><ref name="koreanculture.org">{{cite web|url=http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm |title=Hanbok |publisher=Korean Overseas Information Service}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110717173525/http://uriculture.com/s_menu.html?menu_mcat=100540&menu_cat=100001&img_num=sub1|url-status=dead|archive-date=17 July 2011|title=UriCulture.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref> A total of seven women from the Yuan imperial family were married to the Kings of Goryeo.<ref name=":0" /> The [[Yuan dynasty]] princess followed the Mongol lifestyle who was instructed to not abandon the Yuan traditions in regards to clothing and precedents.<ref name=":22"/> As a consequence, the clothing of Yuan was worn in the Goryeo court and impacted the clothing worn by the upper-class families who visited the Goryeo court.<ref name=":22"/> The Yuan clothing culture which influenced the upper classes and in some extent the general public is called ''Mongolpung''.<ref name=":0" /> King Chungryeol, who was political hostage to the [[Yuan dynasty]] and pro-Yuan, married the princess of Yuan announcing a royal edict to change into Mongol clothing.<ref name=":22"/> After the fall of the [[Yuan dynasty]], only Mongol clothing which were beneficial and suitable to Goryeo culture were maintained while the others disappeared.<ref name=":22"/> As a result of the Mongol influence, the ''chima'' skirt was shortened, and ''jeogori'' was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon, the {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}''g'' (an extending ribbon tied on the right side) instead of the ''twii'' (i.e. the early sash-like belt) and the sleeves were curved slightly.{{Citation needed|date=May 2021}}

The cultural exchange was also bilateral and Goryeo had cultural influence on the [[Mongols]] court of the [[Yuan dynasty]] (1279–1368); one example is the influence of Goryeo women's hanbok on the attire of aristocrats, queens, and concubines of the Mongol court which occurred in the capital city, [[Khanbaliq]].<ref>Kim, Ki Sun, 2005. v. 5, 81-97.</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://news.naver.com/main/read.nhn?mode=LSD&mid=sec&sid1=001&oid=028&aid=0000100944&|title=News.Naver.com|access-date=8 October 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www1.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|title=ChinaCulture.org|access-date=8 October 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141124213026/http://www.chinaculture.org/library/2008-01/28/content_28414.htm|archive-date=24 November 2014}}</ref> However, this influence on the Mongol court clothing mainly occurred in the last years of the Yuan dynasty.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Shaorong|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nx5JDiacrH4C&q=korea&pg=PA16|title=Traditional Chinese Clothing: Costumes, Adornments & Culture|date=2004|publisher=Long River Press|isbn=978-1-59265-019-4|page=6}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last1=Kim|first1=Jinyoung|last2=Lee|first2=Jaeyeong|last3=Lee|first3=Jongoh|date=2015|title="GORYEOYANG" AND "MONGOLPUNG" in the 13th-14th CENTURIES|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/43957480|journal=Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae|volume=68|issue=3|pages=281–292|doi=10.1556/062.2015.68.3.3|jstor=43957480|issn=0001-6446}}</ref> Throughout the Yuan dynasty, many people from Goryeo were forced to move into the Yuan; most of them were ''kongnyo'' (literally translated as "tribute women"), eunuchs, and war prisoners.<ref name=":0" /><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Soh|first=Chung-Hee|date=2004|title=Women's Sexual Labor and State in Korean History|url=http://muse.jhu.edu/content/crossref/journals/journal_of_womens_history/v015/15.4soh.html|journal=Journal of Women's History|volume=15|issue=4|pages=170–177|doi=10.1353/jowh.2004.0022|s2cid=144785547|issn=1527-2036}}</ref> About 2000 women from Goryeo were sent to Yuan as ''kongnyo'' against their will.<ref name=":0" /> Although women from Goryeo were considered very beautiful and good servants, most of them lived in unfortunate situations, marked by hard labour and sexual abuse.<ref name=":0" /> However, this fate was not reserved to all of them; and one Goryeo woman became the last Empress of the Yuan dynasty; this was [[Empress Gi]] who was elevated as empress in 1365.<ref name=":0" /> Most of the cultural influence that Goryeo exerted on the upper class of the Yuan dynasty occurred when Empress Gi came into power as empress and started to recruit many Goryeo women as court maids.<ref name=":0" /> The influence of Goryeo on the Mongol court's clothing during the Yuan dynasty was dubbed as ''Goryeoyang'' ("the Goryeo style") and was rhapsodized by the Late Yuan dynasty poet, Zhang Xu, in the form of a short [[banbi]] (半臂) with square collar (方領).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":102">{{Cite journal|last=Choi|first=Hai-Yaul|date=2007|title=A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-|url=http://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO200708508472010.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=57|issue=1|pages=176–186|issn=1229-6880}}</ref> However, so far, the modern interpretation on the appearance of Mongol royal women's clothing influenced by Goryeo is based on authors' suggestions.<ref name=":102"/> According to Hyunhee Park: "Like the Mongolian style, it is possible that this Koryŏ style [''Koryŏ yang''] continued to influence some Chinese in the Ming period after the Ming dynasty replaced the Yuan dynasty, a topic to investigate further."<ref>{{Cite book|last=Park|first=Hyunhee|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1198087560|title=Soju : a global history|date=2021|isbn=978-1-108-89577-4|location=Cambridge|pages=124–125|oclc=1198087560}}</ref> Tracing the development and evolution of {{Transliteration|ko|goryeoyang}} (高麗樣), it can be found that the popular {{Transliteration|ko|banryeong banbi}} (方領半臂) during the Yuan Dynasty were actually the result of the influence of ancient Chinese costumes on the Korean Peninsula before the Yuan Dynasty. According to the 高麗史·舆服志<ref>高麗史·舆服志</ref>[https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E9%AB%98%E9%BA%97%E5%8F%B2/%E5%8D%B7%E4%B8%83%E5%8D%81%E4%BA%8C#冠服通制], the Goryeo costume system inherited the costume system of the Tang Dynasty. The half arm was developed from the half sleeves in the Han and Wei Dynasties. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the half arm became a fashionable dress for women. In the Tang Dynasty, half-arms were worn on top of the coat, or under the coat and on top of the mid-single. With the lower skirt, the half-arm shirt appeared in the form of a placket. The half arm of the Tang Dynasty spread to the Korean peninsula, and continued to be inherited and developed during the Goryeo Dynasty, becoming an important costume of the Goryeo Dynasty.

===Joseon dynasty===
{{More citations needed section|date=September 2019}}
Neo-Confucianism as the ruling ideology in Joseon was established by the early [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] kings; this led to the dictation of clothing style worn by all social classes in Joseon (including the dress of the royals, the court members, the aristocrats and commoners) in all types of occasions, which included wedding and funerals.<ref name=":19">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939 |title=Guide to Korean culture. |date=2013 |others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn |isbn=978-89-7375-571-4 |location=Seoul, Republic of Korea |pages=92 |oclc=882879939}}</ref> Social values such as the integrity in men and chastity in women were also reflected in how people would dress.<ref name=":19" /> After the [[Japanese invasions of Korea (1592–98)]] or ''Imjin War'', economic hardship on the peninsula may have influenced the closer-fitting styles that use less fabric.<ref name="Chosun Ilbo2">{{cite news |title=Five Centuries of Shrinking Korean Fashions |newspaper=Chosun Ilbo |url=http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2006/05/29/2006052961020.html |access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref>

==== Women's everyday wear ====
[[File:밀양고법리박익벽화묘1.jpg|thumb|Ordinary people's clothing,<ref name=":18" /> Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang. Bak Ik was a civil official who lived from 1332 to 1398 AD, Early Joseon]]
Early Joseon continued the women's fashion for baggy, loose clothing, such as those seen on the mural from the tomb of Bak Ik (1332–1398);<ref>[http://jikimi.cha.go.kr/english/search_plaza_new/ECulresult_Db_View.jsp?VdkVgwKey=13,04590000,38&queryText=(mural%3Cin%3E%20z_title)%3Cand%3E(V_EYEAR%20%3E=1350)&requery=0 Miryang gobeomni bagik byeokhwamyo (Mural tomb of Bak Ik in Gobeop-ri, Miryang)]. [[Cultural Heritage Administration of Korea|Cultural Heritage Administration]]. Accessed 15 July 2009.</ref> the murals from the tomb of Bak Ik are valuable resources in Korean archaeology and art history for study of life and customs in the early Joseon.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Administration |first=Cultural Heritage |title=Mural Tomb of Bak Ik, Miryang - Heritage Search |url=http://english.cha.go.kr/chaen/search/selectGeneralSearchDetail.do;jsessionid=zlMQLnmvrCZ3g9fsza7XSFD2VaW1HbZAfUE3Mxu7kkbLeRDLJK64zg5QpV9bYqor.cha-was01_servlet_engine4?mn=EN_02_02&sCcebKdcd=13&ccebAsno=04590000&sCcebCtcd=38&pageIndex=279&region=&canAsset=&ccebPcd1=&searchWrd=&startNum=&endNum=&stCcebAsdt=&enCcebAsdt=&canceled=&ccebKdcd=&ccebCtcd= |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=Cultural Heritage Administration - English Site |language=en}}</ref> The women of the upper classes, the monarchy and the court wore hanbok which was inspired by the [[Ming dynasty]] clothing while simultaneously maintaining a distinctive Korean-style look; in turn, the women of the lower class generally imitated the upper-class women clothing.<ref name=":12">{{Cite book |last=Welters |first=Linda |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004424828 |title=Fashion history : a global view |date=2018 |others=Abby Lillethun |isbn=978-1-4742-5363-5 |location=London, UK |oclc=1004424828}}</ref> During the Joseon dynasty, the chima or skirt adopted fuller volume, while the jeogori or blouse took more tightened and shortened form, features quite distinct from the hanbok of previous centuries, when ''chima'' was rather slim and ''jeogori'' baggy and long, reaching well below waist level.

In the 15th century, neo-confucianism was very rooted in the social life in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which lead to the strict regulation of clothing (including fabric use, colours of fabric, motifs, and ornaments) based on status.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC&q=Silla+hanbok&pg=PA222|title=The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through world history|date=2008|others=Jill Condra|isbn=978-0-313-33662-1|location=Westport, Connecticut|pages=222–223|oclc=156808055}}</ref> Neo-confucianism also influence women's wearing of full-pleated chima, longer jeogori, and multiple layers clothing in order to never reveal skin.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Murray |first=Anne Wood (Emeritus Curator of American Costume, Division of Costume, Department of Social and Cultural History, National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C.) |title=Dress - Korea |url=https://www.britannica.com/topic/dress-clothing |access-date=2021-03-10 |website=Encyclopædia Britannica |quote="In the 15th century, Korean women began to wear pleated skirts (chima) and longer chŏgori, a style that was undoubtedly introduced from China."}}</ref> In the 15th century, women started wearing of full-pleated chima which completely hide the body lines and longer-length jeogori.<ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/882879939|title=Guide to Korean culture.|date=2013|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-571-4|location=Seoul, Republic of Korea|pages=93|oclc=882879939}}</ref><ref name=":11" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Yang|first=Sunny|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39614017|title=Hanbok : the art of Korean clothing|date=1997|publisher=Hollym|isbn=1-56591-082-6|location=Elizabeth, N.J.|pages=61|oclc=39614017}}</ref> The 15th century AD ''chima-jeogori'' style was undoubtedly a clothing style introduced from China consisting of longer jeogori and pleated chima.<ref name=":11" /><gallery>
File:영의정하연부부영정4.jpg|15th century lady
File:영의정하연부부영정2.jpg|15th century lady
</gallery>However, by the 16th century, the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} had shortened to the waist and appears to have become closer fitting, although not to the extremes of the bell-shaped silhouette of the 18th and 19th centuries.<ref>Keum, Ki-Suk "The Beauty of Korean Traditional Costume" (Seoul: Yeorhwadang, 1994) {{ISBN|89-301-1039-8}} p.43</ref><ref name="Contemporary Artwork of Women2">{{cite web|title=Contemporary Artwork of Korean Women|url=http://medieval-baltic.us/korot2.html|access-date=2009-06-27}}</ref><ref name="Chosun Ilbo2" /> In the 16th century, women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} was long, wide, and covered the waist.<ref name="저고리2">{{cite web|last1=허윤희|title=조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져|url=http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2011/06/27/2011062702249.html|access-date=6 September 2019|website=조선닷컴|language=ko}}</ref> The length of women's {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} gradually shortened: it was approximately 65 cm in the 16th century, 55 cm in the 17th century, 45 cm in the 18th century, and 28 cm in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm.<ref name="저고리2" /> A {{Transliteration|ko|heoritti}} (허리띠) or {{Transliteration|ko|jorinmal}} (졸잇말) was worn to cover the breasts.<ref name="저고리2" /> The trend of wearing a short jeogori with a heoritti was started by the [[gisaeng]] and soon spread to women of the upper class.<ref name="저고리2" /> Among women of the common and lowborn classes, a practice emerged in which they [[Toplessness|revealed their breasts]] by removing a cloth to make breastfeeding more convenient.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Han|first1=Hee-sook|date=2004|title=Women's Life during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://ijkh.khistory.org/journal/view.php?number=342|journal=International Journal of Korean History|volume=6|issue=1|page=142|access-date=6 September 2019}}</ref> As there was an excessive preference for boys in the Joseon dynasty, the deliberate exposure of breast eventually became a cultural practice and an indicator of women's pride and status symbol in having given birth to a son and thus she would "proudly bare her breasts to feed her child, deliberately provoking the envy of other women".<ref name=":21" /> During the 17th and 18th centuries the fullness of the skirt was concentrated around the hips, thus forming a silhouette similar to Western bustles. In the 18th century, the ''jeogori'' became very short to the point that the waistband of the ''chima'' was visible; this style was first seen on female entertainers at the Joseon court.<ref name=":12" /> The ''jeogori'' continued to shorten until it reached the modern times ''jeogori''-length; i.e. just covering the breasts.<ref name=":11" /> The fullness of the skirt reached its extreme around 1800. During the 19th century fullness of the skirt was achieved around the knees and ankles thus giving ''chima'' a triangular or an A-shaped silhouette, which is still the preferred style to this day. Many [[Sokgot|undergarments]] such as ''darisokgot,'' ''soksokgot,'' ''dansokgot'', and ''gojengi'' were worn underneath to achieve desired forms.<gallery>
File:Chimajeogori002.jpg|Women's hanbok consists of ''chima'' skirt and ''jeogori'' shirt by Shin Yunbok
File:18thcentury maid.jpg|Full skirt and tight ''jeogori'' were considered fashionable. 18th century.
File:Yangban.jpg|A rare painting of ''[[yangban]]'' women. ''Yangban'' ladies were sensitive to "fashion fads" which worried [[Seonbi]] scholars. 18th century.
File:18thcentury innerwear.jpg|''Soksokgot'', similar to a [[petticoat]], is shown under the woman's skirt. 18th century.
File:Hyewon-Ssanggeum.daemu.jpg|Dancing together with two swords
</gallery>

At the end of the 19th century, as mentioned above, Heungseon Daewongun introduced ''[[magoja]]'', a Manchu-style jacket, which is often worn over ''jeogori'' to this day.

A clothes reformation movement aimed at lengthening ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' experienced wide success in the early 20th century and has continued to influence the shaping of modern hanbok. Modern ''{{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}'' are longer, although still halfway between the waistline and the breasts. ''Heoritti'' are sometimes exposed for aesthetic reasons.

==== Men's everyday wear ====
[[File:Interior_1,_Unhyeongung_-_Seoul,_Korea.JPG|thumb|Male aristocrat dress: a ''[[Gat (hat)|gat]]'' (a [[horsehair]] hat) on the head and yellow ''[[Dopo (clothing)|dopo]]'' (overcoat)]]Men's hanbok saw little change compared to women's hanbok. The form and design of ''jeogori'' and ''baji'' hardly changed.

In contrast, men's lengthy outwear, the equivalent of the modern overcoat, underwent a dramatic change. Before the late 19th century, ''yangban'' men almost always wore ''jungchimak'' when traveling. ''Jungchimak'' had very lengthy sleeves, and its lower part had splits on both sides and occasionally on the back so as to create a fluttering effect in motion. To some this was fashionable, but to others, namely stoic scholars, it was nothing but pure vanity. Daewon-gun successfully banned ''jungchimak'' as a part of his clothes reformation program and ''jungchimak'' eventually disappeared.

''[[Durumagi]]'', which was previously worn underneath ''jungchimak'' and was basically a house dress, replaced ''jungchimak'' as the formal outwear for ''yangban'' men. ''Durumagi'' differs from its predecessor in that it has tighter sleeves and does not have splits on either sides or back. It is also slightly shorter in length. Men's hanbok has remained relatively the same since the adoption of ''durumagi''. In 1884, the Gapsin Dress Reform took place.<ref name=":13">{{Cite book|last1=Pyun|first1=Kyunghee|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ivZ0DwAAQBAJ&q=myeonbok&pg=PA55|title=Fashion, identity, and power in modern Asia|last2=Wong|first2=Aida Yuen|date=2018|publisher=Springer|isbn=978-3-319-97199-5|location=Cham, Switzerland|oclc=1059514121}}</ref> Under the 1884's decree of [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]], only narrow-sleeves traditional overcoat were permitted; as such, all Koreans, regardless of their social class, their age and their gender started to wear the [[durumagi]] or ''chaksuui'' or ''ju-ui'' (周衣).<ref name=":13" />

Hats was an essential part formal dress and the development of official hats became even more pronounced during this era due to the emphasis of Confucian values.<ref name=":6">{{Cite book|last=Ch'oe|first=Ŭn-su|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846696816|title=Gat : traditional headgear in Korea|date=2012|others=Hyŏng-bak Pak, Eunhee Hwang, Kungnip Munhwajae Yŏn'guso|isbn=978-89-6325-987-1|location=Daejeon, Korea|oclc=846696816}}</ref> The [[Gat (hat)|gat]] was considered an essential aspect in a man's life; however, to replace the gat in more informal setting, such as their residences, and to feel more comfortable, Joseon-era aristocrats also adopted a lot hats which were introduced from China, such as the banggwan, sabanggwan, dongpagwan, waryonggwan, jeongjagwan.<ref name=":6" /> The popularity of those Chinese hats may have partially been due to the promulgation of Confucianism and because they were used by literary figures and scholars in China.<ref name=":6" /> In 1895, King Gojong decreed adult Korean men to cut their hair short and western-style clothing were allowed and adopted.<ref name=":13" /><gallery>
Image:18thcentur man.jpg|A man wearing ''jungchimak''. 18th century.
Image:Malehanbok002.JPG|The "fluttering" effect. 18th century.
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-01.jpg|''Waryonggwan'' and ''hakchangui'' in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic 3.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Koreans oldest pic group.jpg|Photograph taken in 1863
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-02.jpg|''Bokgeon'' and ''simui'' in 1880
Image:Joseon-Portrait of Heungseon Daewongun-03.jpg|Black ''bokgeon'' and blue ''dopo'' in 1880
Image:Korea-Min Sangho-1898-Hubert Vos.jpg|''[[Chengziguan|Jeongjagwan]]'' on the head
File:A_Corean_in_mourning_clothes.jpg|A Korean in mourning clothes
File:COREANS.jpg|Korean men, 1871
File:Corean_man._Middle_class.jpg|Young Korean man of the [[Chungin|middle class]], 1904
File:Korea-History-1910-1920-Korean.mother.child-Carpenter.Collection.jpg|Korean mother and daughter, 1910–1920
</gallery>

====Material and color====
[[File:Joseon-Portrait_of_Cha_Jegong-Black_danryeongpo.jpg|thumb|225x225px|''Heuk dallyeongpo'' in the late 18th century]]
The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven [[ramie]] cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best.

The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white, but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray, and charcoal. The color of ''chima'' showed the wearer's social position and statement. For example, a navy color indicated that a woman had son(s). Only the royal family could wear clothing with ''[[geumbak]]''-printed patterns (gold leaf) on the bottom of the chima.

====Headdresses====
[[File:Miindo-Yun.family.of.Haenam-d1.jpg|left|thumb|140x140px|A woman wearing a wig, or ''[[gache]]'']]
Both male and female wore their hair in a long [[braid]] until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted; man's hair was knotted in a topknot called ''sangtu'' (상투) on the top of the head, and the woman's hair was rolled into a ball shaped form or ''komeori'' and was set just above the nape of the neck.

A long pin, or ''[[binyeo]]'' (비녀), was worn in women's knotted hair as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the ''binyeo'' varied according to the wearer's class and status. And also wore a ribbon or ''[[daenggi]]'' (댕기) to tie and to decorate braided hair. Women wore a ''[[jokduri]]'' on their wedding day and wore an ''[[Ayam (cap)|ayam]]'' for protection from the cold. Men wore a [[Gat (hat)|gat]], which varied according to class and status.

Before the 19th century, women of high social backgrounds and ''[[gisaeng]]'' wore wigs (''[[gache]]''). Like their Western counterparts, Koreans considered bigger and heavier wigs to be more desirable and aesthetic. Such was the women's frenzy for the ''gache'' that in 1788 [[Jeongjo of Joseon|King Jeongjo]] banned by royal decree the use of ''gache'', as they were deemed contrary to the [[Korean Confucianism|Korean Confucian]] values of reserve and restraint.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Art of Beauty and Perfume in Ancient Korea {Cultural Notes} {Beauty Notes} - The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine|url=http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2008/04/beauty_perfume_in_traditional.html|website=www.mimifroufrou.com}}</ref>

Owing to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, it was compulsory for women throughout the entire society to wear headdresses (''nae-oe-seugae'') to avoid exposing their faces when going outside; those headdresses may include ''suegaechima'' (a headdress which looked like a ''chima'' but was narrower and shorter in style worn by the upper-class women and later by all classes of people in late Joseon), the [[jang-ot]], and the ''neoul'' (which was only permitted for court ladies and noblewomen).<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Cho|first=Seunghye|date=2017-09-03|title=The Ideology of Korean Women's Headdresses during the Chosŏn Dynasty|url=https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|journal=Fashion Theory|volume=21|issue=5|pages=553–571|doi=10.1080/1362704X.2016.1251089|s2cid=165117375|issn=1362-704X}}</ref>

In the 19th century ''yangban'' women began to wear ''jokduri'', a small hat that replaced ''gache''. However ''gache'' enjoyed vast popularity in ''kisaeng'' circles well into the end of the century.

===Later development===
Today's hanbok is the direct descendant of hanbok patterned after those worn by the aristocratic women or by the people who were at least from the middle-class in the [[Joseon]] period,<ref name=":9" /><ref>{{Cite book|last=Korean Culture and Information Service Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/680802927|title=Passport to Korean culture.|date=2009|publisher=Korean Culture and Information Service|others=Haeoe Hongbowŏn|isbn=978-89-7375-153-2|edition=2009|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=104|oclc=680802927}}</ref> specifically the late 19th century. Hanbok had gone through various changes and fashion fads during the five hundred years under the reigns of Joseon kings and eventually evolved to what we now mostly consider typical hanbok.

Beginning in the late 19th century, hanbok was largely replaced by new Western imports like the Western [[Suit (clothing)|suit]] and dress. Today, formal and casual wear are usually based on Western styles. However, hanbok is still worn for traditional occasions, and is reserved for celebrations like weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child.

==Modern usage==
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} has been featured in international [[haute couture]]; on the catwalk, in 2015 when [[Karl Lagerfeld|Karl Lagerfield]] dressed Korean models for [[Chanel]], and during [[Paris Fashion Week]] in photography by [[Phil Oh]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|work=Vogue|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> It has also been worn by international celebrities, such as [[Britney Spears]] and [[Jessica Alba]], and athletes, such as tennis player [[Venus Williams]] and football player [[Hines Ward]].<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.sweetandtastytv.com/blog/2013/07/25/8-american-celebrities-wearing-hanbok|title=8 American Celebrities Wearing Hanbok|work=SweetandtastyTV|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

Hanbok is also popular among Asian-American celebrities, such as [[Lisa Ling]] and [[Miss Asia Pageant|Miss Asia]] 2014, [[Eriko Lee Katayama]].<ref name=":3">{{Cite web |title=KIM MeHee hanbok couture |url=http://www.kimmehee.com/ |website=KIM MeHee hanbok couture}}</ref> It has also made appearances on the red carpet, and was worn by [[Sandra Oh]] at the [[Screen Actors Guild Award|SAG Awards]], and by Sandra Oh's mother who made fashion history in 2018 for wearing a hanbok to the [[Emmy Award]]s.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.yahoo.com/news/sandra-ohs-mother-makes-history-wearing-traditional-hanbok-red-carpet-082913406.html|title=Sandra Oh's mother makes Emmys history by wearing traditional Korean hanbok to awards|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

=== South Korea ===
{{Multi image
| image3 = Leesle Hanbok model.jpg
| caption3 = Modernized summer hanbok by Leesle Hanbok, 2008
| caption_align = center
}}
Although hanbok is a traditional costume, it has been re-popularized in modern fashion.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/hanbok-street-style-seoul-korean-traditional-dress|title=The Story Behind Seoul's Latest Street Style Staple|first=Monica|last=Kim|website=Vogue}}</ref> As the hanbok continues to modernize, opinions are divided on the redesigns.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/stories/girls-wearing-hanboks-skirts-now-koreans-arent-sure-feel/|title=Girls are wearing hanboks with skirts now, and Koreans are not sure how they feel about it|date=2017-10-09|work=Koreaboo|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref>

The South Korean government has supported the resurgence of interest in hanbok by sponsoring fashion designers.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://mengnews.joins.com/view.aspx?aId=3042015|title=Designers add a modern twist to hanbok style : Government is keen to show the world the versatility of Korea's traditional attire|website=Korea JoongAng Daily|language=ko|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref> Domestically, hanbok has become trendy in street fashion and music videos. It has been worn by the prominent [[K-pop]] artists like [[Blackpink]] and [[BTS]], notably in their music videos for "[[How You Like That]]" and [[Idol (BTS song)|"Idol."]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.sbs.com.au/popasia/blog/2018/08/23/11-times-bts-rocked-traditional-korean-clothing|title=11 times BTS rocked traditional Korean clothing|website=SBS PopAsia|access-date=2018-10-17}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.koreaboo.com/news/everything-need-know-blackpink-traditional-korean-hanbok-outfits-in-howyoulikethat-mv/|title=Here's Everything You Need To Know About BLACKPINK's Korean Hanbok Outfits In "How You Like That" MV|date=26 June 2020}}</ref>

In Seoul, a tourist's wearing of hanbok makes their visit to the Five Grand Palaces (Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung and Gyeonghuigung) free of charge.

=== North Korea ===
{{Multi image
| image1 = Two housewives celebrated the 69th founding anniversary of the DPRK.jpg
| image2 = North Korea 039 (6160325571).jpg
| caption2 = Newlywed bride in hanbok, North Korea
| image3 = At Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (13610012573).jpg
| caption3 = Women wearing uniform joseon-ot, North Korea
| total_width = 350
| caption1 = Women in joseon-ot, North Korea, 2017
| perrow = 2
| header = Joseon-ot in North Korea
| image4 = Girls in Pyongyang.jpg
| caption4 = Little girls wearing chima-jeogori, North Korea, Pyeongyang
}}
{{Transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} is also worn present-days [[North Korea]] where it is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}).<ref name=":242">{{Cite web |title=Hanbok in N. Korea |url=http://world.kbs.co.kr/special/northkorea/contents/news/closeup_view.htm?No=378367 |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=world.kbs.co.kr |language=en}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} thus highlights the identity of the Korean ethnic and has been more actively promoted under the rule of [[Kim Jong-un|Kim Jong-Un]].<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} is currently typically worn during special occasions, e.g. weddings,<ref name=":28">{{Cite book |title=Mysterious Pyongyang: Cosmetics, Beauty Culture and North Korea |publisher=Springer Singapore |others=Nam Sung-wook, Chae Su-lan, Lee Ga-young (editors) |year=2020 |isbn=9789811577031 |language=en}}</ref>{{Rp|page=49}} and when North Koreans celebrate the 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays of their parents.<ref name=":242" /> It is also mandated that women wear {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} when attending National events, such as [[Kim Jong-il]]'s birthday (February 16), [[International Women's Day|International women's day]] (March 8), [[Kim Il-sung|Kim Il-Sung's]] birthday (April 15), Foundation Day (September 9).<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=78}} White coloured hanbok is often used as the colour white has been the traditionally favoured by the Korean people as the symbolism of pure spirit.<ref name=":242" />

The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} remains the clothing of women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their university school uniforms.<ref name=":242" /> The uniform of female university students is a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} since the early to mid 2000s.<ref name=":242" /> The {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} can often be found about 30 cm from the ground-level for practice purposes in order to facilitate movements and ensure that women could wear it on their daily workday with ease and comfort; this decrease in skirt length also gives a sense of modern style.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=75}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} patterns also have special meanings, which are given by the North Koreans.<ref name=":242" /> Generally, young people in North Korea likes floral prints and bright colours, while the older generations favours simple styles of clothing and solid colours.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=376}} The {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} in North Korea is sometimes characterized by its use of floral patterns which are often added to the sleeves of the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} and to the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}}.<ref name=":242" /> [[Azalea|Azalaes]], in particular, are well-favoured in [[Nyongbyon County|Yongbyon]] due to its association with an emotional poem ''Azaleas''《{{Korean|hangul=진달래꽃|labels=no}}》by [[Kim Sowol|Kim So-wol]].<ref name=":242" /> Men occasionally wore {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}}.<ref name=":242" />

However, {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing, and renting is available for people cannot afford to purchase one; some are available for purchase at US$20 while the {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} made in [[China]] with South Korean designs and fabrics are more expensive and can cost approximately US$3000.<ref name=":242" /> The mid-2010s also saw the increased popularity of children dressing in {{Transliteration|ko|joseon-ot}} by their parents.<ref name=":242" />

==== History ====
The 1950s and 1960s also saw women from the upper-class wore {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} made out of [[rayon]] while a black-and-white {{Transliteration|ko|chima-jeogori}} consisting of a black long-length {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} and white {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}} were used in the 1950s and 1960s where it was generally worn by women;<ref name=":02">{{Cite web |title=Changes in the Clothing Culture of North Korea under the Kim Jong Un Regime |url=https://globalnk.org/note/view?cd=NOT000012 |access-date=2022-08-23 |website=Global North Korea |language=ko}}</ref> this style can, however, be traced to a typical clothing style used in the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]] period.<ref name=":242" /> This combination is still representative of the ideal woman and remains the official outfit for women in North Korea to this day.<ref name=":28" />{{Rp|page=77}} In the 1980s, the {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} became the official attire of women when attending ceremonies while western-style clothing became the everyday, ordinary clothing.<ref name=":02" />

After the mid-1990s due to extreme econooic contractions, women can purchase their {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in private markers and are allowed to choose their desired colours and designs.<ref name=":242" />

In 2001, [[Lee Young-hee (designer)|Lee Young-Hee]], a South Korean {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designer visited [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] to hold fashion at the Pyeongyang Youth Center on June 4 and 6;<ref name=":27">{{Cite book |last=Yonhap News Agency, Seoul |title=North Korea Handbook |publisher=M. E. Sharpe Incorporated |isbn=9780765635235 |editor-last=Yonhap News Agency}}</ref>{{Rp|page=262}} and since the 2002, North Korea have held their own [[fashion show]] in [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]] every spring.<ref name=":02" /> Since 2001, there have been an increased of shops specialized in the customization of {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} in Pyeongyang which was reported by the KBCS.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=261}}This increase was due to a project implemented by the public service bureau of the Pyeongyang People's Committee to increase {{Transliteration|ko|Joseon-ot}} tailoiring shops.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}} These shops are typically found in large cities, such as Pyeongyang and Gaesong but are rarely found in small cities and villages.<ref name=":27" />{{Rp|page=262}}

=== modern usage of Korean diaspora ===

==== China ====
[[File:연변문예 표지 이미지.jpg|thumb|344x344px|Illustration of vintage {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on a Yanbian magazine cover, China, 1975~1983.]]
In [[China]], the {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}} is referred as {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} ({{Lang-zh|c=朝鮮服}}; {{Korean|hangul=조선옷|hanja=朝鮮옷|rr=Joseon-ot|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}) and is recognized as being the traditional ethnic clothing of {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ({{Lang-zh|s=朝鲜族|t=朝鮮族|p=cháoxiǎnzú|l=[[Joseon]] (Korean) ethnic group}}) in China. The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} is an official term and is recognized as one of the official 55 [[Ethnic minorities in China|ethnic minority in China]];<ref name=":25">{{Cite thesis |title=Chaoxianzu's Traditions of Dress: An Exploration of Identity Within Contemporary Fashion Contexts |url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/handle/10292/13127 |publisher=Auckland University of Technology |date=2020 |degree=Thesis |language=en |first=Wenlian |last=Jin}}</ref> people from {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic are not recent immigrants in China but have a long history having lived in China for generations.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/857463468 |title=Women entrepreneurs : inspiring stories from emerging economies and developing countries |date=2014 |publisher=Routledge |others=Mauro F. Guillén |isbn=978-1-136-32459-8 |location=New York |oclc=857463468}}</ref>{{Rp|page=240}} They share the same ethnic identity as the Korean ethnic in both Northern and Southern Korea but are counted as Chinese citizens by nationality under the [[Constitution]] of China. Their traditions are not entirely the same due to their unique historical experiences, geographical location and mixed identities.<ref name=":25" /> The term {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} literally correspond to {{Transliteration|zh|Chosonjok}} ({{Korean|hangul=조선족|hanja=朝鮮族|rr=Chosŏnjok|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), a non-official deragotory term in South Korea, to refer to {{Transliteration|ko|Hangukgye Junggugin}} ({{Literally|Korean-Chinese}}), which is the actual legal term in South Korea.<ref name=":26">{{Cite web |last=Ahn |first=Yeong-chun |title=[Column] The hanbok belongs to the Korean diaspora, too |url=https://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/english_editorials/1030269.html |access-date=2022-08-21 |website=english.hani.co.kr}}</ref> In the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], where most {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} reside,<ref name=":25" /> the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was mostly worn on special occasions in the past;<ref name=":5"/> however, by 2019, they had regained popularity and have become fashionable.<ref name=":25" />

since the [[Chinese economic reform]] of China, there have been more exchanges with both Koreas leading to both the development and changes in chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} in China;<ref name=":25" /> some of designs of the chaoxianzu-style {{transliteration|ko|Chosŏn-ot}} have been influenced and inspired by both South Korean and North Korean {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}}

The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} originally preferred to wear white colours as it represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity; however, since the 20th century, the colours started to become brigher and more vivid and diverse as woven fabrics, such as polyester and nylon sateen, started to be introduced.<ref name=":25" /> The "reform and opening up" of China also allowed for more exchanges with both Koreas, which lead to the both development and changes in the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} of China.<ref name=":25" /> Following the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} tradition, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} has an A-line in silhouette to give it the appearance of a [[mountain]] as per the tradition, women are the host of the family, and thus, women holding the household need to be stable; the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also covers the entire body.<ref name=":25" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} have developed their own style of {{Transliteration|ko|hanbok}}<ref name=":24">{{Cite journal |last=Lin |first=Huishun |date=2020 |title=A study on the Alteration of traditional costume of Korean Chinese (I) - Focused on the daily wear |script-title=ko:중국 조선족 전통복식의 변화연구 (I) - 일상복을 중심으로 - |url=https://www.dbpia.co.kr/journal/articleDetail?nodeId=NODE10514397 |journal=한국의상디자인학회지 |language=ko |volume=22 |issue=4 |pages=63–78}}</ref> due to the isolation for about 50 years from both the North and South Koreas.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} As a result, the styles of {{transliteration|ko|hanbok}} in South Korea, North Korea, and China, worn by the Korean ethnics from these three countries have developed separately from each other. For example, ''Yemi Hanbok'' by Songok Ryu, an ethnic {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} from the [[Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture]], is unique in both style and business model as it can operate in both South Korea and North Korea.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=|pages=240, 246}} In terms of {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} design, ''Yemi Hanbok'' designs are based on Chinese-style designs.<ref name=":5" />{{Rp|page=246|pages=}} Over the years, the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} also changed in length for the {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}} and changed in width for the {{Transliteration|ko|git}}, {{Transliteration|ko|dong-jeong}}, sleeves, and {{Transliteration|ko|goreum}}. The {{Transliteration|ko|git}} and {{Transliteration|ko|barae}} have evolved from straight to curve patterns. The wrinkle arrangement, length, and silhouette of the {{Transliteration|ko|chima}} have also evolved; some of the skirts were sometimes decorated with [[Goldwork (embroidery)|gold embroidery]] or gold leaf at the bottom hem.<ref name=":24" /> The colours used were also very varied; for example, feminine colours such as pink, yellow, and deep red could be used.<ref name=":24" /> The 1990s saw the use of gold leaf, floral prints, embroidery on the women's {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}}; the use of gradient colours also emerged.<ref name=":24" /> For men, their {{Transliteration|ko|jeogori}}, {{Transliteration|ko|baji}}, and sleeves were made longer; their {{Transliteration|ko|baji}} also became wider. The {{Transliteration|ko|[[durumagi]]}} continues to be worn, and the {{Transliteration|ko|baeja}} and {{Transliteration|ko|magoja}} are worn frequently in present-days.<ref name=":24" />

On June 7, 2008, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} were approved by the State Council of China to be included in the second layer of national intangible cultural heritage.<ref name=":25" /> And, in 2011, the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} was official designated as being part of the [[intangible cultural heritage]] of China by the Chinese government; while the announcement was welcomed by the {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianzu}} ethnic in China as a proud indicator of their equal membership in a multi-ethnic and multicultuary country such as China, it received negative criticism in South Koreans who perceived it as a "scandalous appropriation of the distinctive national culture of Koreans".<ref>{{Cite book |last=Kim |first=Jaeeun |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/951625687 |title=Contested embrace : transborder membership politics in twentieth-century Korea |date=2016 |isbn=978-0-8047-9961-4 |location=Stanford, California |oclc=951625687}}</ref>{{Rp|page=239}} In 2022, a girl from the {{Transliteration|zh|[[Koreans in China|chaoxianzu]]}} ethnic wore a {{Transliteration|zh|chaoxianfu}} on the [[2022 Winter Olympics|2022 Beijing Winter Olympics]] opening ceremony leading to an uproar from South Koreans who accused China of [[cultural appropriation]].<ref name=":26" />

==Social status==
Especially from the [[Goryeo]] Dynasty, the hanbok started to determine differences in social status (from people with the highest social status (kings), to those of the lowest social status (slaves)<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea">Chung, Hyun-sook, [http://go.galegroup.com/ps/i.do?id=GALE%7CCX3403700685&v=2.1&u=unc_main&it=r&p=GVRL&sw=w "Clothing, Traditional - Korea"], ''Encyclopedia of Modern Asia'', 2002</ref>) and gender through the many types, components,<ref name="Clothing, Traditional - Korea" /> colours,<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/853455231 |title=Color and design |date=2012 |publisher=Berg Publishers |others=Marilyn Revell DeLong, Barbara Martinson |isbn=978-1-84788-953-9 |location=London |oclc=853455231}}</ref>{{Rp|page=132}} and characteristics.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development">Cho, Woo-hyun, [http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English "Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131231000234/http://koreana.kf.or.kr/view.asp?article_id=500&lang=English |date=31 December 2013 }}, "Koreana", 1995</ref> Although the modern Hanbok does not express a person's status or social position, Hanbok was an important element of distinguishment especially in the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Characteristics of the Korean Costume and Its Development" /> For example, farmers and commoners were not allowed to wear colour garments in their daily lives, excluding some categories of people, such as the shamans, [[Kisaeng|gisaeng]], and children, who were allowed to wear colourful clothing despite their social status.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} Occasions when all people were allowed to wear colourful clothing were for special ceremonial occasions (e.g. wedding, birthday, holidays).<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}}

===Clothes===

==== {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} ====

'''{{Transliteration|ko|[[Hwarot]]}}''' or '''{{Transliteration|ko|hwal-ot}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=활옷}}) was the full dress for a princess and the daughter of a king by a [[concubine]], formal dress for the upper class, and bridal wear for ordinary women during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=47529&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)"], "C News041", 2012/10/23</ref> Popular embroidered patterns on {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} were [[lotus (genus)|lotuses]], [[Phoenix (mythology)|phoenixes]], butterflies, and the ten traditional symbols of longevity: the sun; mountains; water; clouds; rocks/stone; pine trees; the mushroom of immortality; turtles; white [[Crane (bird)|cranes]], and deer.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing">Life in Korea, [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official "Official/Court Clothing"], "Life in Korea"</ref> Each pattern represented a different role within society, for example: a dragon represented an emperor while a phoenix represented a queen; floral patterns represented a princess and a king's daughter by a concubine, and clouds and cranes represented high ranking court officials.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> All these patterns throughout Korean history had meanings of longevity, good luck, wealth and honor.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} also had blue, red, and yellow colored stripes in each [[sleeve]]; a woman usually wore a scarlet-colored skirt and yellow or green-colored [[Jeogori]], a traditional Korean jacket.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> {{Transliteration|ko|Hwarot}} was worn over the [[Jeogori]] and skirt.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A woman also wore her hair in a bun, with an ornamental hairpin and a ceremonial [[coronet]].<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> A long ribbon was attached to the ornamental hairpin, the hairpin is known as {{Transliteration|ko|Yongjam}} ({{Korean|hangul=용잠}}).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" /> In more recent times, people wear {{Transliteration|ko|hwarot}} on their wedding day, and so the Korean tradition survives in the present day.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(26)" />

====Wonsam====

'''''[[Wonsam]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=원삼}}) was a ceremonial overcoat for a married woman in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=46289&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)"], "C News041", 2012/11/12</ref> The [[Wonsam]] was also adopted from [[China]] and is believed to have been one of the costumes from the [[Tang dynasty]] which was bestowed in the Unified Three Kingdoms period.<ref name=":1" /> It was mostly worn by royalty, high-ranking court ladies, and noblewomen and the colors and patterns represented the various elements of the Korean class system.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> The empress wore yellow; the queen wore red; the crown princess wore a purple-red color;<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=132}} meanwhile a princess, a king's daughter by a [[concubine]], and a woman of a noble family or lower wore green.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> All the upper social ranks usually had two colored stripes in each sleeve: yellow-colored Wonsam usually had red and blue colored stripes, red-colored Wonsam had blue and yellow stripes, and green-colored Wonsam had red and yellow stripes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" /> Lower-class women wore many accompanying colored stripes and ribbons, but all women usually completed their outfit with '''Onhye''' or '''Danghye''', traditional Korean shoes.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(25)" />

====Dangui====

'''''[[Dangui]]''''' or '''''Tangwi''''' ({{Korean|hangul=당의}}) were minor ceremonial robes for the queen, a princess, or wife of a high ranking government official while it was worn during major ceremonies among the noble class in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Official/Court Clothing" /> The materials used to make {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} varied depending on the season, so upper-class women wore thick {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} in winter while they wore thinner layers in summer.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=48695&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)"], "C News041", 2012/11/28</ref> The {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} came in many colors, but yellow and/or green were most common. However the emperor wore purple {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}}, and the queen wore red.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" /> In the [[Joseon]] dynasty, ordinary women wore {{Transliteration|ko|dangui}} as part of their wedding dress.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(27)" />

====Myeonbok and Jeokui====
=====''Myeonbok''=====

'''''[[Myeonbok]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=면복}}) were the king's religious and formal ceremonial robes while '''''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]''''' were the queen's equivalent during the [[Goryeo]] and [[Joseon]] dynasties.<ref name="Myeonbok">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=545727&categoryId=1646 "Myeonbok"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Myeonbok was composed of '''Myeonryu-Gwan''' ({{Korean|hangul=면류관}}) and '''Gujang-bok''' ({{Korean|hangul=구장복}}).<ref name="Myeonbok" /> Myonryu-Gwan had beads, which hung loose; these would prevent the king from seeing wickedness.<ref name="Myeonbok" /> There were also wads of cotton in the left and right sides of Myeonryu-Gwan, and these were supposed to make the king oblivious to the influence of corrupt officials. Gujang-bok was black, and it bore nine symbols out of the [[Twelve Ornaments|Twelve ornaments]], which all represented the king.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

=====Nine symbols=====
# [[Dragon]]:A dragon's appearance paralleled how the king governed and subsequently brought balance to the world.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Fire]]: The king was expected to be intelligent and wise to govern the people effectively, like a guiding light represented by the fire.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Pheasant]]: The image of a pheasant represented magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Mountain]]: As a mountain is high, the king was on a par in terms of status and was deserving of respect and worship.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Tiger]]: A tiger represented the king's courage.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Monkey]]: A monkey symbolized wisdom.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Rice]]: As the people needed rice to live, the king was compared to this foodstuff as he had the responsibility of protecting their welfare.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Axe]]: This indicated that the king had the ability to save and take lives.<ref name="Myeonbok" />
# [[Water plant]]: Another depiction of the king's magnificence.<ref name="Myeonbok" />

=====''Jeokui''=====

'''''[[Diyi|Jeokui]]''''' or '''''Tseogwi''''' ({{Korean|hangul=적의}}) was arranged through the use of different colors as a status symbol within the royal family.<ref name="Jeokui">Lee Eun-ju, [http://navercast.naver.com/contents.nhn?rid=92&contents_id=11084 "Jeokui"], "Naver Cast", 2012/07/31</ref> The empress wore purple-red colored Jeokui, the queen wore pink, and the crown princess wore deep blue.<ref name="Jeokui" /> "Jeok" means pheasant, and so Jeokui often had depictions of pheasants embroidered onto it.<ref name="Jeokui" />

====Cheolique====
'''''[[Terlig|Cheolique]]''''' (Alt. Cheolick or Cheollik) (Hangul: 철릭) was a Korean adaptation of the [[Terlig|Mongol tunic]], imported in the late 1200s during the [[Goryeo dynasty]]. Cheolique, unlike other forms of Korean clothing, is an amalgamation of a blouse with a kilt into a single item of clothing. The flexibility of the clothing allowed easy horsemanship and archery. During the [[Joseon dynasty]], they continued to be worn by the king, and military officials for such activities.<ref name="Cheolique">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=563301&categoryId=1646 "Cheolique"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was usually worn as a military uniform, but by the end of the Joseon dynasty, it had begun to be worn in more casual situations.<ref name="Cheolique" /> A unique characteristic allowed the detachment of the Cheolique's sleeves which could be used as a bandage if the wearer was injured in combat.<ref name="Cheolique" />


====Ayngsam====
'''''[[Panling Lanshan|Ayngsam]]''''' ({{Korean|hangul=앵삼|hanja=鶯衫}}) was the formal clothing for students during the national government exam and governmental ceremonies.<ref name="Aengsam">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=580178&categoryId=1646 "Aengsam"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> It was typically yellow, but for the student who scored the highest in the exam, they were rewarded with the ability to wear green Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> If the highest-scoring student was young, the king awarded him with red-colored Aengsam.<ref name="Aengsam" /> It was similar to the [[Panling Lanshan|namsam]] ({{Korean|hangul=난삼|hanja=襴衫}}) but with a different colour.<ref>{{Cite web|title=난삼(襴(幱)衫) - 한국민족문화대백과사전|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0011701|access-date=2021-05-09|website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref>


===Accessories===
[[File:Hanbok accessories.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ko|Hanbok}} accessories]]

==== Binyeo ====

'''''[[Binyeo]]''''' or '''''Pinyeo''''' (Hangul: 비녀) was a traditional ornamental hairpin, and it had a different-shaped tip again depending on social status.<ref name="Binyeo">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1105813&categoryId=200000392 "Binyeo"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> As a result, it was possible to determine the social status of the person by looking at the binyeo. Women in the royal family had dragon or phoenix-shaped Binyeo while ordinary women had trees or [[Japanese apricot]] flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=36151&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(21)"], "C News041", 2012/04/17</ref> And Binyeo was a proof of marriage. Therefore, to a woman, Binyeo was an expression of chastity and decency.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mhj21.com/9863|title=≪문화저널21≫ 기혼여성들에게 꼭 필요했던 장신구 비녀|website=문화저널21|access-date=2019-03-26}}</ref>

====Daenggi====
'''''[[Daenggi]]''''' is a traditional Korean ribbon made of cloth to tie and to decorate braided hair.

====Norigae====

'''''[[Norigae]]''''' (Hangul: 노리개) was a typical traditional accessory for women; it was worn by all women regardless of social ranks.<ref name="Norigae">Doopedia, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=200000000&docId=1076917&categoryId=200000392 "Norigae"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref><ref name=":14">{{Cite book|last=Yi|first=Kyŏng-ja|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/71358055|title=Norigae : splendor of the Korean Costume|date=2005|publisher=Ewha Womans University Press|others=Lee Jean Young|isbn=89-7300-618-5|location=Seoul, Korea|pages=12–13|oclc=71358055}}</ref> However, the social rank of the wearer determined the different sizes and materials of the norigae.<ref name=":14" />

====Danghye====
'''''Danghye''''' or '''''Tanghye''''' (Hangul: 당혜) were shoes for married women in the [[Joseon]] dynasty.<ref name="Danghye">Encyclopedia of Korean Culture and The Academy of Korean Studies, [http://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?cid=1646&docId=534624&categoryId=1646 "Danghye"], "Naver Knowledge Encyclopedia"</ref> Danghye were decorated with trees bearing grapes, [[pomegranates]], [[chrysanthemums]], or [[peonies]]: these were symbols of longevity.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)">Cho, Eun-ah, [http://cnews041.com/sub_read.html?uid=29559&section=sc151 "Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)"], "C News041", 2012/11/27</ref>

=====''Kunghye''=====
Danghye for a woman in the royal family were known as '''''Kunghye''''' (Hangul: 궁혜), and they were usually patterned with flowers.<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

=====''Onhye''=====
Danghye for an ordinary woman were known as '''''Onhye''''' (Hangul: 온혜).<ref name="Cho Eun-ah's Hanbok Story(11)" />

== See also ==
{{Portal|Fashion}}
*[[List of Korean clothing]]
*[[Hanfu]] - a Chinese equivalent.
*[[Việt phục]] - a Vietnamese equivalent.
*[[Wafuku]] - a Japanese equivalent.

== Notes ==
{{reflist|group=note|30em}}

==Footnotes==
{{Reflist|30em}}

==References==
{{Refbegin}}
* An, Myung Sook (안명숙); Kim, Yong Ser (김용서) {{in lang|ko}} 1998. ''Hanʼguk poksiksa'' (한국복식사). Seoul. Yehaksa (예학사) {{ISBN|978-89-89668-11-4}}
* Kim, Ki Sun (김기선). {{in lang|ko}} 2005. [http://www.dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?pid=734&isid=33818&arid=710104&topMenu=&topMenu1= '' Information about Mongolian pigtail'' 몽골의 辮髮에 대하여]. The Institute of Asian Ethno-Forms and Culture. v. 5, 81-97
* Kim, Moon Ja {{in lang|ko}}, 2004. [http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 ''A study on the Source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the Globalism''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110102004542/http://dbpia.co.kr/view/ar_view.asp?arid=567713 |date=2 January 2011 }} (고대 한복의 원류 및 세계화 속의 한복의 위치), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 7.1, 7-15
* Lee, Kyung-Ja (이경자) {{in lang|ko}}, 2003, [https://books.google.com/books?id=ZSjyNv61pT4C ''Uri ot ŭi chŏnt'ong yangsik'' (우리옷의 전통양식 The Traditional Style of Korean Clothes)] [[Ewha Womans University]] Press. {{ISBN|89-7300-514-6}}
*{{cite book|last= Levinson|first= David |title=Encyclopedia of modern Asia, Volume 2|publisher= Charles Scribner's Sons|pages= 120–121|year= 2002|isbn= 978-0-684-80617-4}}
* McCallion, Aleasha; Condra, Jill. 2008. ''[https://books.google.com/books?id=S8bTzilz1BMC The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History]''. [[Greenwood Publishing Group]]. p. 221 - 228, {{ISBN|0-313-33664-4}}
* Nelson, Sarah. 1993. ''The archaeology of Korea''. [[Cambridge University Press]]. {{ISBN|0-521-40783-4}}
* You, Soon Lye (유순례) {{in lang|ko}} 2006, ''Comparative Research on the Costume Aesthetic Korean & Mongolia'' (몽골과 한국의 전통복식 미의식 비교에 대한 연구), Society of Korean Traditional Costume, v. 6, 183-185
{{Refend}}

==External links==
*{{Commons category-inline}}
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-evolution Hanbok History Evolution]
* [https://thekoreaninme.com/blogs/hanbok-philosophy/hanbok-history-infographic Hanbok History Infographic]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071113153646/http://myhome.naver.com/korean_dress/history1.htm History of Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20071021095831/http://goldhanbok.com/data/data_kind.asp Information about Hanbok] {{in lang|ko}}
* [http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm Traditional Korean Clothing] - Life in Korea
* [http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp Official Korea Tourism Organization - Hanbok Clothing] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161013070712/http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/CU/CU_EN_8_1_2_1.jsp |date=13 October 2016 }}

{{Folk costume}}
{{Timeline of clothing and fashion}}

[[Category:Korean culture]]
[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]

Durumagi

2023-01-18T17:17:07Z

182.225.106.69: Undid revision 1134152408 by Southief Kopycat (talk)

{{Short description|A Korean overcoat with no back or side vents}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2022}}

{{Infobox Korean name
|img=
|imgwidth=
|caption= [[Joseon Dynasty]] man in ''durumagi''
|hangul=두루마기|루마기· 주막의· 주차의· 주의
|hanja=周莫衣· 周遮衣· 周衣
|rr=Durumagi / Jumagui / Juchaui / Juui
|mr=Turumagi / Chumagi / Chuch'ai / Chui
|title=Durumagi}}

'''{{Transliteration|ko|Durumagi}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=closed all around}}), also '''{{Transliteration|ko|jumagui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주막의|hanja=周莫衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juchaui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주차의|hanja=周遮衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}), '''{{Transliteration|ko|juui}}''' ({{Korean|hangul=주의|hanja=周衣|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=}}),<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=두루마기 |trans-title=Durumagi |url=https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?cid=40942&docId=1084903&categoryId=32079 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220321172804/https://terms.naver.com/entry.naver?docId=1084903&cid=40942&categoryId=32079 |archive-date=21 March 2022 |access-date=21 March 2022 |website=Doosan Encyclopedia |language=ko}}</ref> is a variety of {{Transliteration|ko|[[po (clothing)|po]]}}, or [[overcoat]], in {{Transliteration|ko|[[hanbok]]}}, the Korean traditional [[Clothing|garment]]. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over {{Transliteration|ko|[[jeogori]]}} (jacket) and {{Transliteration|ko|[[Baji (clothing)|baji]]}} (pants).<ref name=":9">{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=9788928902873 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}</ref>{{Rp|page=120}}

==History==
The origin of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} traces back to at least the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic clothing to fend off cold weather in ancient times.<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wang |first1=Bo|title=唐会要新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla |date=961 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%94%90%E6%9C%83%E8%A6%81/%E5%8D%B7095 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wei |first1=Shou |title=魏书百济 Book of Wei – Baekje |date=551–554 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/zh/%E9%AD%8F%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7100 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Wang |first1=Qinruo |title=冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975 |date=1013 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=69385|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>

Tomb murals from [[Goguryeo]] were primarily painted in two regions, [[Ji'an, Jilin|Ji'an]] ({{Lang-zh|c=集安|labels=no}}) and [[Pyongyang|Pyeongyang]], which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.<ref name=":0222">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26 |quote=Goguryeo tomb murals were primarily painted in Jian集安 and Pyeongyang,平壤 the second and third capitals of the kingdom from the middle of the fourth century until the middle of the seventh, respectively. [...] They also display slightly different characteristics by region. For example, the morals and customs of Goguryeo are featured in murals found in Jian, while those in Pyeongyang show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty 202 BC-AD 220 in China, which governed the region for about four hundred years. This explains why we can see figures in Chinese-style dress in the latter.}}</ref>{{Rp|page=15}} The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically show Korean dress, including figures dressed in nomadic style had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.<ref name=":0222" />{{Rp|page=15}}

According Samuel Lee, the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref>

{{Blockquote
|text="[Goguryeo] Murals also show that both men and women wore chima. The type worn by both for formal occasions was ''sang'' and that worn only by women was ''goon'', which had long and wide dimensions. The origin of durumagi, the long outer coat worn over a jeogori, goes back to the Goguryeo period. The durumagi emanates form the long coat worn by northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times. Later, this [long coat] was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals, and the modified form worn by the general populace came to be known as ''durumagi''.<ref name=":0" />
}}

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:<ref>{{Cite web |title=두루마기 - 미주 한국일보 |url=http://m.koreatimes.com/article/20021209/104410 |access-date=2022-07-10 |website=m.koreatimes.com}}</ref>{{Text_and_translation
|한국 민족의 고유복식은 저고리와 바지, 두루마기로 돼 있다. 이런 복식은 북방 호복(胡服)계열로 바지를 착용했다는 것은 기마민족(騎馬民族)이었음을 의미한다는 것이다.
|The Korean people's indigenous attire consists of a [[jeogori]], [[baji (clothing)|baji]], and durumagi. The fact that [Korean] wore trousers in the northern [[Hufu (clothing)|hobok]] family means that [Korean] were a horse-riding people.
|
}}Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} ({{Lang-zh|c=龕神塚|labels=no}}), the ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by the owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb was red (or purple) in colour:<ref name=":2">{{Cite magazine |last=National Museum of Korea Editorial Team |date=Spring 2009 |title=National Museum of Korea Vol.07 |url=https://www.museum.go.kr/site/main/filedown/QyNK362iLTX2yTPd6BVglg== |magazine=Quarterly Magazine |volume=7 |issue=7 |access-date=2022-06-26}}</ref>{{Rp|page=16}}
{{Blockquote
|text=[The tomb of owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
|author=
}}

The {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=16}} The ancient {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.<ref name="durumagi nate">{{in lang|ko}} [http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45 Durumagi] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110610003154/http://100.nate.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=240983&v=45|date=10 June 2011}} at [[Nate (web portal)|Nate]] Encyclopedia</ref>

=== Goryeo ===
During the [[Goryeo]] period, Mongolian influences caused the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' to change in appearance.<ref name="durumagi nate" /> Not only was the waist belt changed into a {{Transliteration|ko|[[Hanbok#Jeogori|goreum]]}}, the traditional ''{{Transliteration|ko|po}}'''s short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, {{Transliteration|mn|xurumakci}}, of which the name ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' is said to be derived.<ref name="durumagi mongol">Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), ''Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁)'', 1999, p.58 [http://www.hangilsa.co.kr/main/main.php Hangilsa], Paju. {{ISBN|89-356-5146-X}}</ref>

=== Joseon period ===
During the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]], the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, [[Gojong of Korea|King Gojong]] promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.<ref name="gapsin reforms">{{in lang|ko}}[http://100.naver.com/100.nhn?docid=4781 Gapsin Clothing Reform] at [[Doosan Encyclopedia]]</ref> However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the [[Gabo Reform]] of 1894, that the ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' became common as formal attire.<ref name="durumagi nate" />

== Construction and design ==
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is an overcoat, which is closed all around,<ref name=":1" /> lacking side and back vents.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}} It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.<ref name=":9" />{{Rp|page=120}}

Different fabrics and materials are used in making ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'': [[calico]], wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; [[ramie]], fine [[ramie]] and silk [[gauze]] for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.<ref name=":1" /> White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.<ref name="modern durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://biz.heraldm.com/common/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100208000607 New ''hanbok''], Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010</ref>

== Types of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} ==
[[File:Korean clothing-Hanbok-Joseon period-02.jpg|thumb|Blue {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by female model, white {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} worn by male model]]
[[File:A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.jpg|thumb|100px|left|A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.]]
There are various types of which include: {{Transliteration|ko|hotedan durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=홑단 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=single-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|gyup durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=겹 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=double-layer durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|som durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=솜 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=cotton durumagi}}); {{Transliteration|ko|[[kkachi durumagi]]}} ({{Korean|hangul=까치 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=magpie durumagi}}) or {{Transliteration|ko|obangjang durumagi}} ({{Korean|hangul=오방장 두루마기|hanja=|rr=|mr=|labels=|links=|lit=five-colours durumagi}}) for children.<ref name="kkachi durumagi">{{in lang|ko}} [http://culturedic.daum.net/dictionary_content.asp?Dictionary_Id=10019235&mode=content&query=%C1%B6%BC%B1%BD%C3%B4%EB+%B3%B2%BE%C6%C0%C7+%C0%C7%BA%B9+2+%2D+%BF%C0%B9%E6%C0%E5%B5%CE%B7%E7%B8%B6%B1%E2&dircode=0 ''Obangjang durumagi''] from [[Daum Communications]] and Korea Culture & Content Agency</ref>

During the [[Goryeo]]-era, a unique type of armor, called Durumagi ({{Hangul|두루마기}}, {{Hanja|逢掖}}) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref> They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a ''hohaeg'' (({{Hangul|호액}})({{Hanja|護項}})) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.<ref name=gap>{{cite web|url=https://m.blog.naver.com/PostView.naver?isHttpsRedirect=true&blogId=tugups&logNo=2378223|script-title=ko:갑(甲)|publisher=Naver |access-date=2022-11-11 |language=ko}}</ref>

{{Clear}}

== Modern use ==
[[File:APEC2005 Hanbok.jpg|thumb|2005 APEC World leaders in colourful {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}|left|164x164px]]
The {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://bntnews.hankyung.com/apps/news?popup=0&nid=02&c1=02&c2=02&c3=00&nkey=201002112200543&mode=sub_view ''Durumagi'' a must], bnt news 14 February 2010</ref> but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful ''{{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}'' were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 [[Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation|APEC]] Summit in [[Busan]].<ref>{{in lang|ko}} [http://www.cbs.co.kr/Nocut/Show.asp?IDX=111007 Leaders in ''durumagi''], Nocut News 25 November 2005</ref>

{{Clear}}

==See also==
*[[Dopo (clothing)|Dopo]]
*[[Dragon robe|Gonryongpo]]
*[[Hanbok]]
*[[Jeonbok]]
*[[Kkachi durumagi]]
*[[Po (clothing)|Po]]
*[[Sagyusam]]

==References==
{{reflist}}
*{{cite news|url=http://koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/news/article/article.aspx?aid=2875224 |title=Clothing with stories of fertility and faith |publisher=[[JoongAng Daily]] |date=7 May 2007 |author=Lee Ho-jeong}}

==External links==
{{Commons}}
* [https://www.museum.go.kr/site/eng/relic/represent/view?relicId=2587 Owner of {{Transliteration|ko|Gamsinchong}} tomb wearing a purple (or red) {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}}] from the National Museum of Korea
* [http://www.heritage.go.kr Korea National Heritage online] from the Cultural Heritage Administration
* {{in lang|ko}} [https://web.archive.org/web/20091226031829/http://user.chollian.net/~kjg0520/frame1.htm Hanbok Story]

[[Category:Korean clothing]]
[[Category:Jackets]]

Geomungo

2022-12-08T08:19:25Z

182.225.106.69: Exact relationship between Geomungo and Konghou has not been revealed. Wo Gonghou(Wagonghu), which was used before Goryeo Period, is now owned by National Gugak Center, but playing method is not transmitted and shape is more similar to Saung, Traditional Burmese Instrument.

{{More citations needed|date=April 2021}}
{{Infobox Korean name
|img=Hyewon-Tanhyeon.jpg
|hangul={{linktext|거|문|고|}} or {{linktext|현|금|}}
|hanja=(none) or [[wiktionary:玄|玄]][[wiktionary:琴|琴]] 
|rr=geomun(-)go or hyeon(-)geum
|mr=kŏmun'go or hyŏn'gŭm
}}

The '''geomungo''' (also spelled '''''komungo''''' or '''''kŏmun'go''''') or '''''hyeongeum''''' (literally "black zither", also spelled '''''hyongum''''' or '''''hyŏn'gŭm''''') is a traditional [[Korean culture|Korean]] plucked [[zither]] with both bridges and [[fret]]s. ''Geomungo'' is a representative [[String instrument|stringed instrument]] made in [[Goguryeo]] before the 5th century.<ref>{{Cite web|title=거문고 - 한국민족문화대백과사전|url=http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/SearchNavi?keyword=%EA%B1%B0%EB%AC%B8%EA%B3%A0&ridx=1&tot=107|access-date=2021-05-10|website=encykorea.aks.ac.kr}}</ref> Scholars believe that the name refers to [[Goguryeo]] and translates to "Goguryeo zither" or that it refers to the [[colour]] and translates to "black crane zither" (''hyeonhakgeum'', [[wikt:현학금|현학금]] / [[wikt:玄鶴琴|玄鶴琴]]).

The geomungo's place in Korean culture is traditionally that of a scholars' instrument for self-cultivation, much like ancient Chinese had done with the [[guqin]] in [[China]].<ref>{{Cite web|date=2018-07-30|title=Geomungo|url=https://magazineterra.com/korean-instrument-geomungo/|url-status=live|access-date=2019-09-28|website=[[TeRra Magazine]]|language=en-US}}</ref> However, the Koreans never adopted the guqin as a folk instrument but instead inherited the Confucian and literati guqin lore wholesale and applied it onto their own geomungo lore.

==History==
[[Image:Geomungo 11 string.jpg|left|thumbnail|An 11-stringed modern ''geomungo'']]
The ''geomungo'' originated circa the 4th century (see [[Anak Tomb No.3]] infra) through the 7th century from the kingdom of Goguryeo, the northernmost of the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], although the instrument can be traced back to the 4th century.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |url=https://www.culturecontent.com/content/contentView.do?search_div=CP_THE&search_div_id=CP_THE008&cp_code=cp0225&index_id=cp02250023&content_id=cp022500230001&print=Y |title=거문고 - 문화콘텐츠닷컴 |access-date=2018-04-14 |archive-date=2018-04-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180414233843/https://www.culturecontent.com/content/contentView.do?search_div=CP_THE&search_div_id=CP_THE008&cp_code=cp0225&index_id=cp02250023&content_id=cp022500230001&print=Y |url-status=dead }}</ref>

According to the ''[[Samguk Sagi]]'' (Chronicles of the Three Kingdoms), written in 1145, the ''geomungo'' was invented in the 6th century by prime minister [[Wang San-ak]] by remodeling the form of the ancient Chinese instrument ''[[guqin]]'' (''gogeum'', also called ''chilhyeongeum'', literally "seven-string zither"). After his death, the instrument was passed down to Ok Bogo, Son Myeong-deuk, Gwi Geum, An Jang, Cheong Jang, and Geuk Jong, while being widely spread over the kingdom. However, [[National Gugak Center]] of Korea raises the possibility that the geomungo originated from a traditional musical instrument of Goguryeo before Guqin was introduced.<ref>[http://www.gugak.go.kr/ency/topic/view/88 "거문고 - 국립국악원 국악사전"], Gugak Dictionary of National Gugak Center. 2022-12-08</ref>

Archetype of the instrument is painted in [[Goguryeo]] tombs. They are found in the tomb of Muyongchong and [[Anak Tomb No.3]].<ref name=":0" />

==Construction==
The ''geomungo'' is approximately 162 cm long and 23 cm wide (63.75 inches long, 9 inches wide), and has movable bridges called ''anjok'' (雁足 "goose feet") and 16 frets called ''gwae'' (棵; numbered 1 to 16 from left to right). It has a hollow body where the front plate of the instrument is made of [[paulownia]] wood and the back plate is made of hard [[chestnut]] wood. Its six strings, which are made of twisted [[silk]] passed through its back plate. The pick is made from bamboo sticks in the size of regular household pencil. Near the bridge is a leather-covered section called ''daemo'' to protect the surface from the striking of the ''suldae'' stick.

The six strings are named (from closest one to the player outward) ''munhyeon'' (文弦 "civil string"), ''yuhyeon'' (遊弦 "roaming string"), ''daehyeon'' (大弦 "big string"), ''gwaesangcheong'' (棵上清 "clarity upon the frets"), ''gwaehacheong'' (棵下清 "clarity below the frets"), and ''muhyeon'' (武弦 "martial string"), and are numbered 1 to 6 respectively in notation (or 文、方、大、上、中、下 in tablature form). Strings 2-4 go over fret 1 and are positioned over the frets whilst 1, 5 and 6 are supported by the ''anjok'' bridges. Strings 2 and 3 are used to play stopped notes and the rest are played open or as drones (even string 4 which is above the frets, though it is sometimes played stopped in some pieces). The thickness of the strings are not sequential: usually the thickest string is the ''daehyeon'', followed by the ''munhyeon'' and ''muhyeon''. The ''yuhyeo'' is usually the thinnest string followed by the ''gwaesangcheong'' and ''gwaehacheong'', though some have the ''gwaesangcheong'' as the thinnest followed by the ''yuhyeon''.

Modernized geomungo increases the strings to 11, which are made of nylon. As with the traditional version, three strings are over the frets and the others are all open. But the traditional version of the geomungo has 6 strings, with three over the frets.

Recently, the 6-string Geomungo has been modified quite a lot, with the appearance of electronic geomungo (전자 거문고). Geomungo playing with Hwaldae bow (활대 거문고) (same as playing [[ajaeng]]),<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djTsMkVDp_c|title='첼로 거문고?'...국악기는 변신 중|access-date=21 April 2021|publisher=[[YouTube]]}}{{cbignore}}{{Dead Youtube links|date=February 2022}}</ref> or the type of geomungo having more strings, collected; attracted the attention of young artists.

In the development of culture, besides the conservation artists, inheriting the cultural tradition of the nation, there are artists who change and modernize the traditional culture of the nation.

==Playing method==
The ''geomungo'' is generally played while seated on the floor. The strings are plucked with a short [[bamboo]] stick called {{lang|la|suldae}} (술대/匙), which is held between the index and middle fingers of the right hand, while the left-hand presses on the strings (mostly 2 and 3) by either pulling or pushing to produce various [[Pitch (music)|pitches]] using the thumb and first four fingers. The left-hand ring-finger usually wears a leather thimble (called ''golmu'') to act as support as the strings are high above the frets and are difficult to press down firmly on the frets. The player can use the stick to strike the ''daemo'' leather protector during plucks to create percussive effects.

The most typical [[Musical tuning|tuning]] of the open strings for the playing of traditional Korean court music is (from string closest to the player outwards) Eb, Ab, Db, Bb, Bb, and Bb an [[octave]] lower than the central tone. For sanjo and folk music, the Eb string is raised to F (plus all the strings might be raised a major 2nd up). The instrument is played in traditional Korean court music and the folk styles of [[Sanjo (music)|sanjo]] and [[sinawi]].<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.gugak.go.kr/site/homepage/menu/viewMenu?menuid=001003001001001010004 |title=유동적인 연주방법 | 국악기의 특징 | 개요 | 국악이론 | 교육연구 | 국립국악원 |access-date=2018-04-14 |archive-date=2018-04-14 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180414172508/http://www.gugak.go.kr/site/homepage/menu/viewMenu?menuid=001003001001001010004 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

Due to its characteristically percussive sound and vigorous playing technique it is thought of as a more "masculine" instrument than the 12-string or 24 string [[gayageum]] (another Korean zither); both instruments, however, are played by both male and female performers.

The geomungo has a large range of playable songs and also has a large range of tunes.

The geomungo historically had a notation tablature system similar to that of the [[guqin]] Chinese seven-stringed zither ''jianzipu'' system, but this has been superseded by modern [[staff notation]].

The Korean-born, U.S. resident ''geomungo'' performer and composer [[Jin Hi Kim]] plays a custom-made electric ''geomungo'' in addition to the regular instrument.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.mediateletipos.net/wp-content/images/2006/06/electric_260x437.jpg|title=Photographic image|format=JPG|website=Mediateletipos.net|access-date=21 April 2021}}</ref>

==See also==
*[[Korean music]]
*[[Traditional Korean musical instruments]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
{{Commons|Geomungo}}
*[http://www.koreasociety.org/dmdocuments/2008-11-05-reinventing.mp3 Korea Society Podcast: Reinventing Traditional Korean Music - Geomungo Performance]

{{Zithers}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Goguryeo]]
[[Category:Korean musical instruments]]
[[Category:Zithers]]
[[Category:Important Intangible Cultural Properties of South Korea]]

Haegeum

2022-12-08T05:29:30Z

182.225.106.69:

Wonsam

2022-11-29T14:08:00Z

182.225.106.69: Revised some terms that may be controversial.

{{Infobox Korean name
|img=Korean.costume-Wonsam-for.Queen.Joseon-01.jpg
|imgwidth=180
|caption=''Hwangwonsam'' (Yellow wonsam)
|hangul=원삼
|hanja=圓衫
|rr=wonsam
|mr=wonsam
}}
The '''''wonsam''''' is a female ceremonial [[Overcoat|topcoat]] in ''[[hanbok]]''. It was worn by queens, high-ranking court ladies, and royalty during the [[Joseon dynasty]] of [[Korea]] (1392–1910).<ref name="Life in Korea">{{cite web|url=http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm?xURL=official |title=Official/Court clothing |publisher=Life in Korea}}</ref> It is also called ''''daeui'''' (大衣, big clothing), ''''daesu'''' (大袖, wide sleeves) and ''''jangsam'''' (長衫, long clothing).<ref name="Britannica">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=176186&v=44 |script-title=ko:원삼 (圓衫) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |language=Korean}}</ref> The queen, princess consort, and consort to the first son of the crown prince wore it as a ''soryebok'', a robe for small ceremonies, while wives of high officers and ''[[sanggung]]'' (court matrons) wore it as ''daeryebok'', a robe for major ceremonies.<ref name="EncyKorea">{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=249325&v=42 |script-title=ko:원삼 (圓衫) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[EncyKorea]] |language=Korean}}</ref> It was also worn by commoners on their wedding ceremony.<ref name=":0" />

== Origins and development ==

=== Origins ===
The wonsam is commonly known to have been introduced from [[China (disambiguation)|China]] and is believed that the clothing of the [[Tang dynasty]] introduced in the Unified Three Kingdom periods of Korea was localized.<ref name=":0">{{Cite journal|last=Nam|first=Min-yi|date=2000|title=A Study on the Items and Shapes of Korean Shrouds|url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.page|journal=The International Journal of Costume Culture|volume=3|issue=2|pages=100–123|archive-url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200011920805632.pdf|archive-date=2000}}</ref><ref>[https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/2638 원삼(圓衫)], Encyclopedia of Korean folk culture.</ref> Since then, it has become part of the Korean national customs.<ref name=":0" />

According to Hong Nayoung, the wonsam is also hypothesized to have originated from another garment called dansam (unlined jacket), which was used in early Joseon and adopted from China.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Hong |first=Nayoung |title=원삼 ( 圓衫 ) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/topic/detail/7132 |access-date=2022-04-02 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture |language=ko}}</ref><ref name=":3">{{Cite web |last=Hong |first=Nayoung |title=원삼(圓衫) |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/kr/topic/detail/7132 |access-date=2022-04-02 |website=한국민속대백과사전 [Encyclopedia of Korean Folk culture] |language=ko}}</ref> The Chinese Ming dynasty bestowed the ceremonial attire and daily clothings to the Joseon queens from the reign of King Munjong to the reign of King Seonjo whenever a new king was enthroned; the bestowed clothing included [[Ru (upper garment)|o]] (襖), [[Ruqun|gun]] (裙), and dansam.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3" /> The bestowed dansam was initially worn by the queen as a form of daily clothing and was also referred as wonsam occasionally; later on, the term wonsam became the fixed name for the garment.<ref name=":2" />

=== Development ===
Throughout the [[Joseon|Joseon dynasty]], the form and shape of the wonsam evolved with time. The formative characteristics of the wonsam can be divided into four stages:<ref name=":1">{{Cite journal|last1=Lim|first1=Hyunjoo|last2=Cho|first2=Hyosook|date=2013|title=A Study on the Periodic Characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty|url=http://koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201310635656201.page|journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume|volume=63|issue=2|pages=29–44|doi=10.7233/jksc.2013.63.2.029|issn=1229-6880|doi-access=free}}</ref>

# '''15th–16th century AD wonsam:''' the wonsam in this period included the a [[Round collar robe|danryeong]]-shaped wonsam, a form of wonsam which was similar to the [[Round collar robe|danryeong]] and included danryeong collars, side pleats (called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight sleeves in the shape of cylinders and a belt which was tied with the wonsam.<ref name=":1" />
# '''Early 17th – Mid 17th century AD wonsam''' (which also be referred as the '''''transitional wonsam'''''): it was a complex combination of the danryeong and what is known as wonsam; during this period, many forms and shapes were developed in short period of time.<ref name=":1" /> This transitional wonsam was a stepping-stone to the late development of the wonsam in the later years.<ref name=":1" />
# '''Mid 17th century AD wonsam – 19th century wonsam''': The shape of the wonsam became more stable; during this period, the wonsam had collars which faced each other, and big and wide sleeves with stripes of multiple colours.<ref name=":1" /> It also featured ''hansam'' (i.e. a curve-edge side seams) and side pleats (moo) without any multiple inner folds.<ref name=":1" /> The clothing also changed from single-layered to double layeres, and new colours such as dark blue to green colour appeared.<ref name=":1" />
# '''Late 19th to 20th century AD wonsam''': The characteristics and fabrics used in the wonsam became more standard, and there were now two types of wonsam: (1) the ceremonial robe used in court, and (2) the wonsam used by commoners as ceremonial robe on their wedding.<ref name=":1" />

== Design and construction ==
The color and decorations of the garment around the chest, shoulders and back represent the wearer's rank.<ref name="Life in Korea" /> For example, the colour yellow was used for the wonsam of empresses, red for queens, ''jajeok'' (紫赤 ''magenta'') for concubines and princess consorts, and green for princesses and women of the noble ''[[yangban]]'' class.<ref name="EncyKorea" /><ref name="Doosan">{{cite web|url=http://www.encyber.com/search_w/ctdetail.php?masterno=120315&contentno=120315 |script-title=ko:원삼 (圓衫) |publisher=[[Doosan Encyclopedia]] |language=Korean}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/853455231|title=Color and design|date=2012|publisher=Berg Publishers|others=Marilyn Revell DeLong, Barbara Martinson|isbn=978-1-84788-953-9|location=London|oclc=853455231}}</ref> After being popularised by royalty, commoners were granted permission to wear wonsam at weddings only,<ref name="shim">{{cite book|title=우리옷 만들기|trans-title=Making our clothes|language=Korean|last1=Shim|first1=Hwa-jin|author-link=Shim Hwa-jin|publisher=Sungshin Women's University Press|location=Seoul|date=2004|page=194}}</ref> only the green wonsam.<ref name="Life in Korea" />

Varieties of silk were used as the fabric. Wonsam for winter were made with ''dan'' (緞), a thick [[silk]] with a glossy surface formed with a [[satin weave]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=B&i=122829&v=43 |script-title=ko:단 (緞) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[Britannica]] |language=Korean}}</ref> and wonsam for summer were made with ''sa'' (紗), a loosely woven silk.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://100.empas.com/dicsearch/pentry.html?s=K&i=277502&v=42 |script-title=ko:사 (紗) |publisher=[[Empas]] / [[EncyKorea]] |language=Korean}}</ref>

Unlike the ''[[po (clothing)|po]]'', an indigenous Korean overcoat with narrow sleeves, the wonsam was based on women’s half-sleeve [[round collar robe]] that was worn in 15th century.{{Verification needed|date=May 2021}} After the [[Qing invasion of Joseon]], its sleeves have gotten longer and wider.{{Verification needed|date=May 2021}} As an adaptation from the original model, the wonsam gradually evolved into a distinctive form characteristic of traditional Korean clothing.<ref name="Doosan" />

== Modern use ==
Today the wonsam is worn primarily in representations of Joseon royal ceremonies and as a wedding garment, and in a much simplified version when performing traditional Korean dances.<ref>[http://www.koreanculture.org/06about_korea/symbols/01hanbok.htm Hanbok] Korean Overseas Information Service</ref><ref>[http://eng.pusanminsok.or.kr/autocart/market/main/detail.php?con_item_no=210 Dongnae Gomu(Dongnae Drum Dance)] Busan Folklore Conservation Association</ref>

== Gallery ==
<gallery>
File:Korea-Hanbok-Queen-01.jpg|''Nokwonsam'' (green wonsam) for a princess<ref>[http://www.dynamic-korea.com/culture/view.php?main=MOV&sub=&uid=200600058659 Traditional Korean Wedding Dress to be Exhibited at Smithsonian Museum]</ref>
File:Korea-Hanbok-Queen-02.jpg|''Nokwonsam'' exhibited at [[Asian Art Museum of San Francisco]]
File:Korean.dance-Taepyeongmu-01.jpg|Dancers in ''wonsam'' performing a [[Korean dance]], ''[[Taepyeongmu]]''
</gallery>

== See also ==
*[[Dangui]]
*[[Gache]]
*[[Hwarot]]
*[[List of Korean clothing]]

== References ==
{{Commons category}}
{{Reflist}}

[[Category:Joseon dynasty]]
[[Category:Korean clothing]]

Wonsam

2022-11-29T02:55:29Z

182.225.106.69:

Durumagi

2022-05-16T11:03:16Z

182.225.106.69: Deleted the contents maliciously distorted by China. Though somewhat influenced by Hanfu, Origin of Hanbok is not Hanfu but Costume of Northern Nomadic People. Rather Hanfu was also influenced by costume of Northern Nomadic People like Mongolian or Tungus.

Adrien

2021-12-28T11:40:13Z

182.225.106.69: /* People */

{{other uses}}
{{Wiktionary|Adrien}}
'''Adrien''' is a [[given name]] and [[surname]], and the [[French language|French]] spelling for the name [[Adrian]].<ref name="Hanks 2003">{{cite book
| last = Hanks
| first = P.
| title = Dictionary of American Family Names: 3-Volume Set
| publisher = Oxford University Press, USA
| issue = v. 3
| year = 2003
| isbn = 978-0-19-508137-4
| url = https://books.google.com/books?id=vG7MZ9J6dAgC&pg=PA11
| access-date = 8 September 2018
| page = 11
}}</ref> It is also the [[grammatical gender|masculine]] form of the [[grammatical gender|feminine]] name [[Adrienne]]. It may refer to:

==People==
===Given name===
* [[Adrien Auzout]] (1622–1691), French astronomer
* [[Adrien Baillet]] (1649–1706), French scholar and critic
* [[Adrien Brody]] (born 1973), American actor
* [[Adrien Broom]], American photographer
* [[Adrien, Count of Rougé]] (1782–1838), French statesman
* [[Adrien de Wignacourt]] (1618–1697), Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller
* [[Adrien Douady]] (1935–2006), French mathematician
* [[Adrien Duvillard (alpine skier born 1969)]], French Olympic alpine skier
* [[Adrien Manglard]] (1695–1760), French painter
* Adrien Perruchon (born 1983), French conductor
* [[Adrien Rabiot]] (born 1995), French soccer player
* [[Adrien Robinson]] (born 1988), American football player
* [[Adrien Silva]] (born 1989), Portuguese-French footballer
* [[Adrien Zeller]] (1940–2009), French politician

===Surname===
* [[Caroline Adrien]] (born 1987), French kitesurfer
* [[Jeff Adrien]] (born 1986), American basketball player
* [[Martin-Joseph Adrien]] (1766–1823), French operatic bass

==Fictional characters==
* [[Adrien Agreste]], in the animated television series ''Miraculous: Tales of Ladybug & Cat Noir''

== See also ==
* {{look from|Adrien}}
* [[Adrian]]
* [[Adrianne]]
* [[Adrienne]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

{{given name|type=both}}

[[Category:English-language masculine given names]]
[[Category:French masculine given names]]