Wikipedia - User contributions [en]

User talk:58.106.20.142

2009-04-15T07:10:36Z

58.106.20.142: /* April 2009 */

== April 2009 ==
[[Image:Stop hand nuvola.svg|30px]] This is the '''only warning''' you will receive for your [[Wikipedia:Disruptive editing|disruptive edits]]. <br> The next time you insert a [[Wikipedia:Spam|spam]] link{{#if:|, as you did to [[:{{{1}}}]]}}, you '''will''' be [[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]] from editing Wikipedia. Spammers may have their websites [[Wikipedia:Spam blacklist|blacklisted]] as well, preventing their websites from appearing on [[Wikipedia]]. {{#if:|{{{2}}}|}}[[Category:User talk pages with Uw-spam4im notices||{{PAGENAME}}]]{{Do not delete}} If you have any questions, please contact me at [[User talk:IanManka|my talk page]]. [[User:IanManka|Ian Manka]] 05:18, 15 April 2009 (UTC)
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<div class="user-block"> [[Image:Stop x nuvola with clock.svg|40px|left]] You have been {{#ifeq:|yes|[[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]] indefinitely|{{#if:31 hours|'''[[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]]''' for a period of '''31 hours'''|temporarily [[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]]}}}} from editing in accordance with [[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|Wikipedia's blocking policy]] for continuing to add [[Wikipedia:Spam|spam]] links. {{#ifeq:|yes||If you wish to [[Wikipedia:Five pillars|make useful contributions]], you are welcome to come back after the block expires.}} Persistent spammers will have their websites [[Wikipedia:Spam blacklist|blacklisted]] from Wikipedia and potentially [http://www.forbes.com/technology/2007/10/18/wikipedia-pr-spencer-tech-internet-cx_ag_1018techwikipedia.html penalized] by search engines. If you believe this block is unjustified, you may [[Wikipedia:Appealing a block|contest the block]] by adding the text {{tlx|unblock|Your reason here}} below, but you should read our [[Wikipedia:Guide to appealing blocks|guide to appealing blocks]] first. {{#if:true|If you have any questions, please contact me at [[User talk:IanManka|my talk page]]. [[User:IanManka|Ian Manka]] 05:20, 15 April 2009 (UTC)}}</div>{{#ifeq: + | - |[[Category:Wikipedians who are indefinitely blocked for link-spamming||{{PAGENAME}}]] | [[Category:Wikipedians who have temporarily been blocked for link-spamming||{{PAGENAME}}]] }}
:''If this is a shared [[IP address]], and you didn't make the edit, consider [[Wikipedia:Why create an account?|creating an account]] for yourself so you can avoid further irrelevant notices.''
{{unblock reviewed|1=I am extremely sorry, this is a shared IP address - I actually have a Wiki login and I forgot to log in when making the changes. By then it was too late and I've been blocked for 31 hours. Please undo this block - I had no intention of spamming|decline=This ip address does not appear to be shared. What is your wikipedia username? [[User:Slakr|<span style="color:teal;font-weight:bold;">slakr</span>]]<small><sup>\ [[User talk:Slakr|talk]] /</sup></small> 06:07, 15 April 2009 (UTC)}}

Hi Slakr, well it's shared in the sense that we use it on more than one computer here at work. My username is '''Euganeo'''. I will log in as '''Euganeo''' and make a comment here to confirm it. Many Thanks [[Special:Contributions/58.106.20.142|58.106.20.142]] ([[User talk:58.106.20.142#top|talk]]) 07:10, 15 April 2009 (UTC)

User talk:58.106.20.142

2009-04-15T05:25:45Z

58.106.20.142: /* April 2009 */

== April 2009 ==
[[Image:Stop hand nuvola.svg|30px]] This is the '''only warning''' you will receive for your [[Wikipedia:Disruptive editing|disruptive edits]]. <br> The next time you insert a [[Wikipedia:Spam|spam]] link{{#if:|, as you did to [[:{{{1}}}]]}}, you '''will''' be [[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]] from editing Wikipedia. Spammers may have their websites [[Wikipedia:Spam blacklist|blacklisted]] as well, preventing their websites from appearing on [[Wikipedia]]. {{#if:|{{{2}}}|}}[[Category:User talk pages with Uw-spam4im notices||{{PAGENAME}}]]{{Do not delete}} If you have any questions, please contact me at [[User talk:IanManka|my talk page]]. [[User:IanManka|Ian Manka]] 05:18, 15 April 2009 (UTC)
:''If this is a shared [[IP address]], and you didn't make the edit, consider [[Wikipedia:Why create an account?|creating an account]] for yourself so you can avoid further irrelevant notices.''

<div class="user-block"> [[Image:Stop x nuvola with clock.svg|40px|left]] You have been {{#ifeq:|yes|[[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]] indefinitely|{{#if:31 hours|'''[[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]]''' for a period of '''31 hours'''|temporarily [[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|blocked]]}}}} from editing in accordance with [[Wikipedia:Blocking policy|Wikipedia's blocking policy]] for continuing to add [[Wikipedia:Spam|spam]] links. {{#ifeq:|yes||If you wish to [[Wikipedia:Five pillars|make useful contributions]], you are welcome to come back after the block expires.}} Persistent spammers will have their websites [[Wikipedia:Spam blacklist|blacklisted]] from Wikipedia and potentially [http://www.forbes.com/technology/2007/10/18/wikipedia-pr-spencer-tech-internet-cx_ag_1018techwikipedia.html penalized] by search engines. If you believe this block is unjustified, you may [[Wikipedia:Appealing a block|contest the block]] by adding the text {{tlx|unblock|Your reason here}} below, but you should read our [[Wikipedia:Guide to appealing blocks|guide to appealing blocks]] first. {{#if:true|If you have any questions, please contact me at [[User talk:IanManka|my talk page]]. [[User:IanManka|Ian Manka]] 05:20, 15 April 2009 (UTC)}}</div>{{#ifeq: + | - |[[Category:Wikipedians who are indefinitely blocked for link-spamming||{{PAGENAME}}]] | [[Category:Wikipedians who have temporarily been blocked for link-spamming||{{PAGENAME}}]] }}
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{{unblock|I am extremely sorry, this is a shared IP address - I actually have a Wiki login and I forgot to log in when making the changes. By then it was too late and I've been blocked for 31 hours. Please undo this block - I had no intention of spamming}}

Miniature wargaming

2009-04-15T05:16:59Z

58.106.20.142: /* External links */

{{Wargaming}}
'''Miniature wargaming''' is a form of [[wargaming]] that incorporates [[miniature figures]] and modeled terrain as the main components of play. Like other types of wargames, they can be generally considered to be a type of simulation game, generally about [[military tactics|tactical]] combat, as opposed to [[computer wargame|computer]] and [[board wargame|board]] wargames which have greater variety in scale.

While such games ''can'' be played with [[counter (board wargames)|counter]]s on a table with colored paper to denote terrain types, part of the attraction is the spectacle of painted miniatures moving around on a table with model trees, hills and other scenery. These are available in different scales, and many sets of rules are written with the assumption that a particular scale is being used.

The hobby got its start around the beginning of the 20th Century, with the publication [[Fred T. Jane|Jane]]'s naval war rules and [[H. G. Wells]]' ''[[Little Wars]]''. Commercial products just for miniatures wargamers and awareness as a single community of people with similar interests date back to the 1950s with the efforts of [[Jack Scruby]]; major developments in the field since then include the rise in the 1960s and 1970s of fantasy and science fiction wargames as an alternative to games based on historical conflicts, and the emergence of Games Workshop in the 1980s and 1990s as the dominant publisher of non-historical wargames.

==General overview==

Miniature wargaming is a recreational hobby where players simulate a battle, which is played out using small figurines to represent the land, sea and/or air units involved. Many miniatures games are played on a floor or tabletop, with terrain represented by miniature scenery (hills, forests, roads, fences, ''etc.''). Movement of the miniatures is regulated using a [[tape measure]]. However, like [[board game|boardgames]], miniature games can also be played using gridded terrain (demarcated into [[square (geometry)|squares]] or [[hexagon]]s) or even gameboards.

One of the main reasons for playing miniature wargames, in both these respects, is because it offers players more freedom of play and a more [[aesthetic]]ally pleasing [[military tactics|tactical]] element over [[traditional game]]s or [[computer games]].<ref name="HMGS">{{cite web | title = What is Wargaming? | work = Article | publisher = HMGS | url = http://www.hmgs.org/history.htm | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref> Additionally, many [[hobbyist]]s enjoy the challenge of painting [[miniature figurines|miniatures]] and constructing scenery. In many ways, miniature wargaming may be seen as combining many of the aesthetics of [[rail transport modelling|tabletop train modeling]] with an open [[strategy game]] predominantly, though not exclusively, with a [[military]] theme. There is also a large social component to wargames as very often games are played with several participants on a side.<ref name="HMGS"/>

The miniatures and scenery used vary greatly in scale, from 2mm figures up to 32mm or larger. The miniature figures are typically [[plastic]] or [[metal]] and are often sold unpainted. Scenery is often home-made, and figures are painted by the players, who will sometimes even "[[miniature conversion|convert]]" shop-bought figures to better represent the units they are trying to depict.<ref>{{cite web | title = Warhammer 40,000 Modelling articles | work = Article | publisher = Games Workshop | url = http://uk.games-workshop.com/warhammer40000/modelling/ | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | title = Warhammer Fantasy Modelling articles | work = Article | publisher = Games Workshop | url = http://uk.games-workshop.com/warhammer/modelling/ | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | title = The Lord of the Rings Modelling articles | work = Article | publisher = Games Workshop | url = http://uk.games-workshop.com/thelordoftherings/modelling/ | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref>

There are any number of sets of miniature wargaming rules, some of which are available without charge on the [[Internet]]. Scenarios may depict actual historical situations and battles, or they may be hypothetical "[[Hypothesis|what if?]]" situations. There are also fantasy and science fiction games with attendant [[wizard (fantasy)|wizards]], [[spacecraft]] and other genres. Rules also vary in the scale they depict: one figure to one soldier is the most common for fantasy and some historical rules, but many historical systems presume that one figure represents a [[platoon]], [[regiment]] or even larger formations on the tabletop.

Generally, these games are [[turn based strategy]], like [[chess]].

===Scale===
{{main|Miniature figure (gaming)}}

[[Image:Phokian General.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Two units of 15mm spearmen from a [[Phocis|Phokian]] Greek army under ''[[De Bellis Antiquitatis]]'' rules.]]Scale is generally expressed as the approximate height of a humanoid figure from base of foot to eyeline (though some count to top of head - hence the possible confusion) in millimeters, this is sometimes referred to as the Barret Scale, as opposed to the ratio values used in scale modeling.

'''Popular sizes and roughly equivalent scale ratios'''
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| '''mm'''
| 54
| 45
| 28
| 25
| 20
| 15
| 10
| 6
|-
| '''scale'''
| 1:32
| 1:35
| 1:64
| 1:72
| 1:76
| 1:100
| 1:200
| 1:300
|}

For more detailed information on common scales see [[Miniature figure (gaming)#Scales|miniature scale]]. The [[naval wargaming]] branch of the hobby almost exclusively uses ratios.

"O" (1:48), "HO" (1:87), and "N" (1:160) scale are popular among model railroad hobbyists. Some model railroad scales are close enough to the smaller-scale figures to provide usable structures and/or vehicles, possibly requiring some modification. Some wargamers use [[card model]] structures because of their economy and the ease of scaling them to appropriate sizes, and many wargamers [[scratch building|scratchbuild]] their structures.

Part of the reason for the profusion of miniature sizes is the need for manufacturers to differentiate themselves in what is a [[niche market]]. This results in what has been termed 'scale creep' where miniatures listed in a catalogue may be identified by a measurement, but in reality may vary significantly from that advertised size. This is to encourage the purchaser into [[brand loyalty]] based on the aesthetic desire to maintain a look of uniformity on the tabletop.

Over the years the size of new miniatures has tended to increase. For example, 25 mm figures from the 70s are visibly smaller than the 25 mm figures today. Some can even be used alongside modern 20 mm figures. Currently most manufacturers and gamers refer to 25 mm figures as 28 mm figures, since they are so much bigger than the earlier 25 mm figures. Some figures are still being called 25 mm, even if by the foot to eyeline ratio they should be 30 mm or bigger.
[[Image:Warhammer 40k Battle 14.jpg|thumb|A player repositions a 28mm (1:64 scale) figurine in a [[Warhammer 40,000]] game using a tape measure to gauge distance.]]
A players choice of which scale to use is a direct reflection of the scope of the game to be played. For historical games, 15 mm seems to be the most popular scale, because it is small enough to allow for large battles.<ref name="HMGS"/> Smaller scaled miniatures are typically mounted in groups and moved as groups. This creates the visual effect of a large mass of combatants, allowing games simulating [[platoon]], [[company (military)|company]], [[battalion]], and even [[corps]] level actions. In these cases, the miniatures are often mounted on trays, or bases, for ease of mass movement.<ref name="HMGS"/>

Larger scaled figures (primarily 25 mm and up) tend to be used in [[skirmish]] games where the single miniature represents a single man/animal/vehicle. This is because, although scales in this region provide greater detail that is easier to paint, their higher cost and larger size limits the size of battles that might be recreated.<ref name="HMGS"/> Games of this scale that are not mounted on trays (and thus not locked in block formation) tend to offer greater flexibility of movement.<ref>{{cite web | title = A discussion simplicity in wargames | date = 2005-11-12 | url = http://www.angelfire.com/rings/firstwarofthering/WarhammerLotR.html | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref>

The perceived and agreed ratios of representative models to represented 'real world' objects are generally explicitly stated. This is particularly true of rules systems that claim some form of historical authority, whereas a minority of rules sets do not state any representative scale.

==Rulesets==
{{Main|List of miniature wargames}}

There are many miniature wargaming rulesets, not all of which are currently in print, including some which are available free on the internet. Most rulesets are intended for a specific historical period or fictional genre. Rules also vary in the model scale they use: one infantry figure may represent one man, one squad, or much larger numbers of actual troops.

[[Wargaming]] in general owes its origins to military [[simulations]], most famously to the [[Prussia|Prussian]] staff training system [[Kriegsspiel]]. Consequently, rules designers struggle with the perceived obligation to actually 'simulate' something, and with the seldom compatible necessity to make an enjoyable 'game'. Historical battles were seldom fair or even, and the potential detail that can be brought to bear to represent this in a set of rules always comes at the cost of pace of the game and enjoyment. In [[Osprey Publishing]]'s book about the [[Battle of Crécy]], from its series on historical campaigns, there is included a detailed section on wargaming the battle, in which Stuart Asquith writes:

{{cquote|When refighting a particular battle, it is important to adhere as closely as possible to the original historical engagement. The counter-argument is that the wargamer(s) know who is going to win. Fair comment, but knowing the outcome of any battle does not usually prevent one from reading about that action, so why should such knowledge debar a refight?<ref name="Nicolle">''Crécy 1346: Triumph of the longbow'', p 93-94</ref>}}

He adds that unless at least the initial moves are recreated, "then an interesting medieval battle may well take place, but it will not be a re-creation of Crécy."<ref name="Nicolle"/> Still, rules aimed at the non-professional hobby market therefore inevitably contain abstractions. It is generally in the area of the abstraction liberties taken by the designers that the differences between rules can be found. Most follow tried and true conventions to the extent that a [[chess]] player would recognise wargaming merely as a different scaled version of his or her own game.

===Role-playing games===
[[Image:Chainmail 3rd edition.jpg|thumb|right|The ''[[Chainmail (game)|Chainmail]]'' rulebook.]]
{{main|Role-playing game}}
During the 1960s and 1970s, two new trends in wargaming emerged: First were small-unit rules sets which allowed individual players to portray small units down to even a single figure. These rules expanded the abilities of the smaller units accordingly, to magnify their effect on the overall battle.

Second was an interest in fantasy miniatures wargaming. [[J.R.R. Tolkien]]'s novel ''[[The Hobbit]]'' and his epic cycle ''[[The Lord of the Rings]]'' were gaining strong interest in the United States, and as a result, rules were quickly developed to play [[medieval]] and [[Ancient Rome|Roman]]-era wargames, where these eras had previously been largely ignored in favor of [[Napoleonic]] and [[American Civil War|Civil War]] gaming.

The two converged in a set of miniatures rules entitled ''[[Chainmail (game)|Chainmail]]'', published by a tiny company called [[Guidon Games]], headquartered in [[Lake Geneva, Wisconsin]]. Later, in 1974, [[TSR, Inc.|TSR]] designer [[E. Gary Gygax]] wrote a set of rules for individual characters under ''Chainmail'', and entitled it ''[[Dungeons & Dragons]]''. Further developments ensued, and the [[role-playing game]] hobby quickly became distinct from the wargaming hobby which preceded it.

===Naval wargames===
{{main|Naval wargaming}}
Although generally less popular than wargames set on land, naval wargaming nevertheless enjoys a degree of support around the world. [[Model ships]] have long been used for wargaming, but it was the introduction of elaborate rules in the early 20th century that made the hobby more popular. Small miniature ships, often in 1:1200 scale and [[1:1250 scale]], were maneuvered on large playing surfaces to recreate historical battles. Prior to [[World War II]], firms such as [[Bassett-Lowke]] in [[England]] and the [[Germany|German]] company [[Wiking]] marketed these to the public.<ref>Head, Derek. ''Bassett-Lowke Waterline Ship Models'' London 1996 ISBN 1-872727-72-7</ref><ref>Schönfeld, Peter ''Wiking-Modelle Die Schiffe und Flugseuge'' Hamburg 1998 ISBN 3-7822-0731-9</ref> After World War II, several manufacturers started business in Germany, which remains the center of production to this day,<ref>[http://www.steelnavy.com/1250hist.htm#A%20BRIEF%20HISTORY%20OF%20THE%20HOBBY Jacobs,Paul 1250 History on the steelnavy.com website]</ref> while other companies started in England and the United States.

Rules can vary greatly between game systems; both in complexity and era. Historical rulesets range from the ancient and medieval ships to the fleets of the [[Age of Sail]] and the [[modern era]]. Often the hobbyists have to provide their own scale models of ships. The 1972 game, ''[[Don't Give Up The Ship!]]'', called for pencil and paper, six-sided dice, rulers and [[Protractor|protractors]], and model ships, ideally of 1:1200 scale. The elaborate rules cover morale, sinking, fires, broken masts, and [[Boarding (attack)|boarding]]. Dice determined wind speed and direction, and hence the ship's speed and the use of its [[cannon]] by measuring angles with the protractor.<ref>''[[Don't Give Up The Ship!]]'', 1st Edition, 1972, [[Guidon Games]], 50 pages, blue & black cover</ref>

In naval wargaming of the modern period, ''[[General Quarters (rules)|General Quarters]]'', primarily (though not exclusively) using six-sided dice, has established itself as one of the leading sets of World War I and II era rules.<ref>''Survey of Naval Wargames Rules'', NWS journal "Battlefleet" 1996</ref>

Each model for the now [[out-of-print]] fantasy game ''[[Man O' War (game)|Man O' War]]'', set in the realm of ''[[Warhammer Fantasy (setting)|Warhammer Fantasy]]'', had a corresponding template to record damage, crew levels, and outbreaks of fire, among other bookkeeping activities. In this regard, the game mechanics proved some limiting factors. Some land-based miniature wargames have also been adapted to naval wargaming. ''[[All at Sea]]'', for example, is an adaptation of ''[[The Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game]]'' rules for naval conflicts. The game's mechanics centred around boarding parties, with options for [[naval ram|ramming actions]] and [[siege engine]]s.<ref>{{cite web | author = Nick Davis | title = All At Sea Part One | work = Ruleset | publisher = White Dwarf | date = | url = http://www.alt-world.com/alt-world/LOTR/undersail.htm | accessdate = 2007-06-14 }}</ref> As such, the ship's scale ratio corresponds to the 25 mm scale miniatures used by ''The Lord of the Rings''. Model ships are built by hobbyists, just as normal miniature terrain, such as "[[carrack|great ships]]" of [[Pelargir]], [[cog (ship)|cogs]] of [[Dol Amroth]] and [[Corsairs of Umbar|Corsair]] [[Galleys#The Galleas warship|galleys]].<ref>{{cite web | title = The Ports of Pelargir | work = Website | date = | url = http://www.freewebs.com/portsofpelargir | accessdate = 2007-06-14 }}</ref>

===Air wargames===
{{main|Air wargaming}}

Air wargaming, like naval wargaming, is a smaller niche within the larger hobby of miniatures wargaming. Aerial combat has developed over a relatively short time compared with naval or land warfare. As such, air wargaming tends to break down into three broad periods:
* [[World War I]] - from the earliest air combat to the 1920s
* [[World War II]] - 1930s to the early 1950s
* "Modern" - the missile age

In addition there are science fiction and "alternative history" games such as ''Aeronefs'' and those in the ''[[Crimson Skies]]'' universe.

==Community and culture==
Miniature games tend to be more social than do other forms of commercial wargames, and very often games are played with several participants on a side.<ref name="HMGS"/> This manifests itself in wargame organisations, conventions, community websites and other social events. Some conventions have become very large affairs, such as [[Games Workshop]]'s ''[[Games Day (Games Workshop)|Games Day]]'' and the [[Historical Miniatures Gaming Society]]'s ''[[Historicon]]'', called the "mother of all wargaming conventions".<ref name="HMGS"/> Sometimes the wargamer stereotypes are parodied, such as in "''Wargamers, a spotters guide''" and the [[comic strip]] "''Larry Leadhead''".<ref>{{cite web | title = Wargamers, a spotters guide | work = Article | url = http://www.warlords.org.nz/article_spotter.htm | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | title = Larry Leadhead's Website | work = Website | url = http://www.larryleadhead.org/ | accessdate = 2007-06-16 }}</ref>

=== Notable miniature wargame organizations ===
[[Image:Lancaster1.jpg|thumb|[[American Civil War]] miniature battle at the HMGS "[[Cold Wars (gaming)|Cold Wars]]" convention in [[Lancaster, Pennsylvania|Lancaster]].]]
*[[International Wargames Federation]] (IWF) promotes historical wargaming competitions between players or teams from different countries. [http://www.theiwf.org/]
*[[Historical Miniatures Gaming Society]] (HMGS) is the collective name for several regional miniature wargaming societies/organizations. Each HMGS chapter holds its own wargaming conventions. The largest group, HMGS East, holds three major conventions: [[Cold Wars (gaming)|Cold Wars]], [[Historicon]], and [[Fall In!]]. HMGS East also supports several smaller conventions. There are chapters of HMGS in most regions of the [[United States]]. [http://www.hmgs.org].
*[[Johnny Reb Gaming Society]] - the leading international gaming society devoted exclusively to wargaming the American Civil War; publishes the quarterly [[CHARGE! (magazine)|''CHARGE!'' newsletter]] for members of the society.
* Wargame Developments (WD) was founded by game designer and author Paddy Griffith in 1980, and is an international group dedicated to developing all types of wargames. It publishes a journal, ''The Nugget'', nine times per year and holds an annual 3-day long conference - COW (The Conference of Wargamers) - every July.
*[http://www.mindsportssa.freeservers.com Mind Sports South Africa] started as the South African Wargames Union in 1980. It was the first wargaming body to have wargames recognised as a sport in the same way as which chess is so recognised. As a result South African teams were awarded Springbok Colours (1991 - 1994) and Protea Colours (1995 to date).
* The Solo Wargamers Association (SWA) founded in 1976 supports solo players in all branches of wargaming - historical, science fiction, fantasy, miniatuires, board games etc. Publishes a quarterly journal Lone Warrior.
* The British Historical Games Society (BHGS) promotes historical wargaming in Britain, holding events including tournaments periodically.
* The War Gaming Society (WGS) was founded in May 1975. The Joaquin Valley War Gaming Association (SJVWGA), founded in 1972 by [[Jack Scruby]], Ray Jackson and other miniature wargamers, is a subdivision of the War Gaming Society.
*[[The Pike & Shot Society]] promotes wargaming based on the "[[Pike and shot]]" period (''c.'' 1500-1700), publishing a journal called ''The Arquebusier''. [http://www.pikeandshotsociety.org/]
* The [[Society of Ancients]], founded in the '60's, promoting ancient wargaming and historical research through ''Slingshot'', the society journal.
* Warhammer Player's Society. Dedicated to all versions (Fantasy, Ancients and Science-Fiction) of Warhammer [http://www.players-society.com/]
* Society of Twentieth-Century Wargamers. (SOTCW) covers all periods 1900 - present [land, sea or air] the society has a magazine, ''The Journal'', which is produced quarterly. [http://www.sotcw.net/]
* [[Society of Fantasy and Science Fiction Wargamers]] (SFSFW). For fantastical and future, including retro-future, wargames. Publishers of ''[[Ragnarok (Magazine)| Ragnarok]]'' magazine. [http://www.sfsfw.org/]
* [[Naval Wargames Society]]. The NWS is an international society devoted to the advancement of naval wargames, publishing a quarterly journal, ''Battlefleet''. [http://www.navalwargamessociety.org/]

=== Notable miniature wargamers and miniature wargame designers ===
[[Image:Littlewars.jpg|thumb|''Little Wars'', by H. G. Wells (1913).]]
* [[H.G. Wells]] - Known as the "Father of Miniature Wargaming" and author of the miniature wargaming classic ''[[Little Wars]]''.<ref>[http://theminiaturespage.com/ref/minigide.html The Miniatures Page]. ''The World of Miniatures - An Overview''.</ref>
* [[Jack Scruby]] - The "Father of Modern Miniature Wargaming".<ref name="Timeline">[http://www-personal.umich.edu/~beattie/timeline2.html Timeline of the Historical Miniatures Wargaming Hobby]</ref> Popularised modern miniature wargaming and organised perhaps the first miniatures convention in 1956. Jack Scruby was also a manufacturer of military miniatures whose efforts led to a rebirth of the miniature wargaming hobby in the late 1950s.
* [[Gary Gygax]] - Co-creator of ''[[Dungeons & Dragons]]'' and a number of miniature wargames.
* Duke Seifried - Sculptor of over 10,000 miniatures, one of the earliest American miniature manufacturers: ''Heritage'', ''Custom Cast'', ''Der Kreigspielers Napoleonic'', and ''Fantastiques Fantasy Figures''.
* [[Charles Grant (game designer)|Charles Grant]] - Author and founder member of the UK wargaming scene in the 60's. Helped popularise miniature wargaming.
* [[Donald Featherstone (wargamer)|Donald Featherstone]] - A respected military historian,<ref name="Flodden">Sadler, p 27</ref> introduced to the hobby in 1955.<ref name="Tony Bath">[http://www-personal.umich.edu/~beattie/timeline/2002%20stuff/bath.html Tony Bath Obituary]</ref> Since then, he was one of the most prolific authors on the subject, and very influential in the development of the hobby.
* [[Fletcher Pratt]] - Science fiction writer (often in collaboration with [[L. Sprague de Camp]]) and originator of a popular set of rules for naval miniature wargaming.
* [[Walter Simon (wargamer)|Walter ("Wally") Simon]] - One of the original founders of the Historical Miniature Gaming Society. First President of HMGS and Organizer of the Potomac Wargamers, publisher of the ''PW Review''.
* [[Dick Bryant]] - Co-founder with Wally Simon of HMGS and editor since 1969 of ''The Courier Miniature Wargaming Magazine''. His editorial in that magazine castigating [[Game Manufacturers Association|GAMA]] for choosing cardboard counters as "The Best New Historical Miniature" started the search for an organization that supported and promulgated the hobby of Historical Miniature Wargaming that resulted in the "Meeting in Wally's Basement" that was the initialization of HMGS.
* [[David Waxtel]] - Publisher of over 20 sets of rules, and supplement books, including ''Died for Glory'', ''Fire & Fury'', ''Tactica'', ''Spearhead'', ''[[Crossfire (miniatures game)|Crossfire]]'', and ''Armarti''. Known to put on an epic game at conventions.
* [[George Gush]] - Noted for ''[[A Guide to Wargaming]]'' (1980) as well as the WRG Renaissance Rules and the book ''Renaissance Armies''.
* [[John Hill (game designer)|John Hill]] - Known for his classic ''[[Squad Leader]]'' and other [[Avalon Hill]] board games, also the author of the popular ''Johnny Reb'' miniatures rules.
* Raymond ("Ray") James Jackson - Author of ''Classic Napoleonics'', an "Old School" set of miniature wargame rules which have been in existence since 1961. Chairman and CEO of both HMGS-West and the War Gaming Society. A miniature wargamer since 1958.
* [[Frank Chadwick]] - Author of the ''Command Decision'' and ''Volley & Bayonet'' rules, ''[[Space: 1889]]'' and ''[[Traveller (role-playing game)|Traveller]]'', and co-founder of [[Game Designers' Workshop]].
* [[Phil Barker]] - Founder of the [[Wargames Research Group]], and inventor of the ''[[De Bellis Antiquitatis]]'' game series.
* [[Arty Conliffe]] - Designer of ''Armati'', ''[[Crossfire (miniatures game)|Crossfire]]'', ''Spearhead'', ''Shako'' and ''Tactica'' rules.
* [[Bob Jones]] - Founder of Piquet and designer of the ''Piquet'' wargame series.
* Brigadier Peter Young, DSO, MC - Highly decorated [[World War II]] [[commando]] leader, commander of the 9th Regiment of the Arab Legion, founder of the Sealed Knot English Civil War reenactment society, Reader of Military History at [[Royal Military Academy Sandhurst|Sandhurst]], author of several books on military history, also author of ''Charge! Or How to Play Wargames'' and ''The War Game: Ten Great Battles Recreated from History''.
* [[Phil Dunn]] - Founder of the [[Naval Wargames Society]] and author of ''Sea Battle Games''.
* John McEwan - Creator of the first science fiction ground combat miniatures game ''Starguard!'' in 1974 along with over 200 figures and models for this game.
* [[Tony Bath]] - Author and veteran wargamer, founding member of the Society of Ancients, best known as umpire of the one of the longest running and well known of all wargames campaigns, set in the fictional land of Hyboria.
* [[David Manley]] - Author of many sets of naval rules including ''Action Stations'', ''Fire When Ready'', ''Iron and Fire'', ''Bulldogs Away'', and ''Form Line of Battle'', as well as numerous articles and technical papers on naval wargaming, history, and warship design.
* Scott Mingus - founder of the international [[Johnny Reb Gaming Society]] and one of the world's most prolific authors of [[American Civil War]] scenario books.
* Neville Dickinson - One of the original members of the UK wargaming scene and founder of Miniature Figurines, the first firm in the UK to popularise metal miniatures.
* Larry Brom- designer of [[The Sword and The Flame]], one of the most popular colonial era wargames.
* [[Andy Chambers]] - Known for his work in rules design and revision for Games Workshop Inc. and Mongoose Publishing. Notable games he helped develop include [[Warhammer 40,000]] and [[Starship Troopers: The Miniatures Game]].
* [[Rick Priestley]] - co-creator/co-author of Warhammer, author Warhammer 40,000 and a host of other game credits. Associated primarily with Games Workshop and Citadel but earlier work included co-authoring the seminal fantasy wargame rulebook Reaper.
* Rusty Gronewold - Lead designer with Tactical Command Games, has developed many different miniature games, such as [[Stellar Fire]], Legions Unleashed, Conflict 2000, Stellar Conflicts & Uprisings, Gunslingers & Desperados, Pirates & Buccaneers just to name a few.

==References==
<div class="references-small">
<references/>
</div>

*[[David Nicolle]] & Stuart Asquith, ''Crécy 1346: Triumph of the longbow'', [[Osprey Publishing]] Paperback; June 25 2000; ISBN: 9781855329669
*{{cite book | first=John | last=Sadler | authorlink=John Sadler (historian) | title=Flodden 1513: Scotland's greatest defeat (Campaign 168) |publisher=[[Osprey Publishing]]| year=2006 | isbn=9781841769592}}

==See also==
* [[Simulation game]]
* [[Nation-simulation game]]
* [[Grand strategy]]
* [[Fantasy wargame]]
* [[Tabletop game]]
**[[List of miniature wargames]]
**[[List of wargame publishers]]
**[[Scale model]]
* [[Video game|Computer and video games]]
* [[Computer-assisted gaming]]

==External links==

* [http://www.hmgs.org/history.htm What is wargaming?] History and discussion of wargaming and miniature wargaming.
* [http://miniaturefx.com/ MiniatureFX], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials
* [http://theminiaturespage.com/ The Miniatures Page] Internet community for miniature wargaming.
* [http://dakkadakka.com/ Dakka Dakka] Alternate Internet community for miniature wargaming.
* [http://www.miniaturewargaming.com/ MiniatureWargaming.Com]An index of miniature wargaming articles and wargames websites, updated daily. It focuses primarily on historical wargames.
* [http://www.intobattle.com/ IntoBattle.com] World War II Miniatures - Painting Tutorials, Photo Gallery, and Wargaming Tribute Video.
* [http://www.paintitsu.com/ Paintitsu.com] Peer review website that allows post your painted gaming miniatures, then rate and review them.

{{scale model}}

[[Category:Miniatures games| ]]
[[Category:Wargames|Miniature wargaming]]

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Miniature model (gaming)

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{{Repetition|date=December 2007}}

A '''miniature figure''', also known as a "miniature," "mini," "figure," or "fig." is a small-scale representation of a historical or mythological entity used in [[Miniature wargaming|miniature wargames]], [[role-playing games]], and dioramas. Miniature figures are commonly manufactured from metal, plastic or paper and are used to augment the visual aspects of the game, and track position, facing, and [[line of sight (gaming)|line of sight]] of actors within the game. Miniatures are typically painted, and are often artfully sculpted and are collectible in their own right. The hobby of painting, collecting, and gaming with miniatures originated with the [[toy soldier]] hobby with the distinction that toys are sold pre-painted, and miniatures require painting. This distinction has blurred with the recent introduction of painted plastic figures, such as those used in ''[[Clix]]'' games.

==Materials==
Traditionally, miniatures were cast in [[white metal]], an alloy of [[lead]] and [[tin]]. Sometimes a small amount of [[antimony]] was added to improve the alloy's ability to take fine detail. In 1993, the [[New York]] legislature nearly passed a bill outlawing lead in miniatures, citing public health concerns. Many miniatures manufacturers, anticipating that other states would follow with more bans, immediately began making miniatures with lead-free alloys, which often resulted in price increases.<ref>Bigalow, Robert 1993. "Through the Looking Glass", ''Dragon Magazine'' 192:112–118 (April 1993).</ref> After many months of debate and protests by miniature manufacturers and enthusiasts, New York Governor [[Mario Cuomo]] signed a bill which exempted miniatures from the state's Public Health Law.<ref>[http://public.leginfo.state.ny.us/menugetf.cgi N.Y. P.B.H. Law § 1376-a]</ref> Still, most American manufacturers continued to use non-lead alloys.<ref>Bigalow, Robert 1984. "Through the Looking Glass", ''Dragon'' 205:114–122 (May 1994).</ref>

Recently manufacturers offer [[plastic]] ([[polyethylene]] or hard [[polystyrene]]) minis; others offer [[resin]] (mostly [[polyurethane]]) minis. Some war games use box miniatures, a simple cuboid made from folded card stock. Art work representing a view of each side of the subject is printed on the outside.

== Scales ==
With the [[metrification]] of [[United Kingdom|Great Britain]],United States manufacturers began to describe miniature sale in the [[metric system]] rather than fractions of [[inch]]es in order to match military models with miniatures for table-top wargaming. Miniature figure scales are commonly expressed as the height of a six-foot (183 cm) human male. In 28 mm scale, children and short characters such as [[dwarves]], [[hobbit]]s, and [[goblin]]s will be typically be smaller than 28 mm, whereas large characters like [[ogre]]s, [[troll]]s and [[dragons]] will be taller.

Scales of 25 mm, 28 mm, 30 mm, 32 mm, and 35 mm are the most common for role-playing and table-top games. Smaller scales of 10 mm, 15 mm, and 20 mm are used in wargames representing massed warfare. Larger figures of 54 mm and more are commonly used for painters and collectors. The use of scale is not uniform and can deviate by as much as 33-percent. A manufacturer might advertise its figures as "28mm," but their products may be over 30 mm tall. A contributing factor is the different methods for calculating scale. Some manufacturers measure figure height from the feet to level of the figure's eyes rather than the top of its head. Therefore a 6-foot (1.83m) figure in 28 mm scale would be 30 mm tall. As a result, 15 mm figures are interpreted as 1:100 real-life height by some and 1:120 by others. A further complication is differential interpretations of [[body proportions]]. For example, a 30 mm figure from [[Privateer Press]] and compare it to the accurate scaled proportions of a real person, one sees that the figure has exaggerated proportions making it look much wider, with bigger features like the head, hands and weapons. Figures from other manufacturers display similar deviations. Some of these began as concessions to the limitations of primitive mold-making, but they have evolved to artistic and stylistic choices over the years.

{| cellpadding="3" class="wikitable"
! Scale !! Scale foot !! Ratio !! Comments
|-
| 2 mm || || 1:888 || Useful for gaming in tight spaces or representing large forces. Popular scale for VSf play.
|-
| 6.2 mm || || [[1:285 scale|1:285]] || The USA standard for large-scale historical armor battles. "Microarmor." Other genres such as ancients, fantasy, and sci-fi are growing in popularity. The NATO/EU standard is the 5.92 mm 1/300 scale.
|-
| 10 mm || 1.667 mm || 1:182.88 || Newer scale, very popular for ancients and fantasy. 10 mm sci-fi is an up and coming niche. Scale is roughly equal to N-scale railroad trains. Growing in popularity.
|-
| 15 mm || 2.5 mm || 1:121.92 || The most popular scale in use by historical wargamers playing in the Modern Period. Seldom used for RPGs.
|-
| 20 mm || 3.333 mm || 1:91.44 ||Highly popular for WWII wargaming, as the figures are of the same scale (more or less) of 1:76 or 1:72 models (actually closer to 1:87 or 3.5 mm/ft which is HO [[model railway|model railroad]] scale). Seldom used for RPGs.
|-
| 25/28 mm || 4.167 mm || 1:73.152 || Original 25s matched 1:76 ([[4 mm scale]]/[[00 gauge]]) and 1:72 models, but there is a wide upwards variation in figure height, even when not described as "Heroic 25 mm" or 28 mm. True 28 mm figures are very close to 1:64 (S-scale) in height, but bulky sculpting and thick bases can make some look more in scale with 1/48 or 1/50 scale vehicles. This is the most common size, as 28 mm is the size that [[Games Workshop]] uses.
|-
| 30 mm || 5 mm || 1:60.96 || Common for pre-1970s wargaming figures; modern minis may really be up to 35 mm. (Note: model railroad "S" scale is 1:64 which is close)
|-
| 32 mm || 5.333 mm || 1:57.15 || Idiosyncratic to Mithril: genuine 32 mm
|-
| 35 mm || 5.833 mm || 1:52.251 || Genuine 30 mm
|-
| 54 mm || 9 mm || 1:33.867 || Collectible figures, a good match for 1:35 models, but oversize 54 mm figures would fit better with 1:32 models. Plastic dollar-store Army Men are often sold at this scale.
|}

== Painting ==
{{main|Figure painting (hobby)}}

Many [[role-playing game]]rs and [[wargame]]rs will paint their miniature figures to be able to differentiate characters or units on a gaming surface (terrain, battle mat, or unadorned table top).

Although many gamers are indifferent to the quality of the paint job, for some the skillful painting of minis is a [[hobby]] in itself, on a par with the "more serious" modelling of historical and military [[model figure|figures]]. Skillful mini painting is a difficult, exacting, time-consuming process, but the results can be quite amazing.

[[Fantasy]], [[role-playing games|role-playing]], [[miniatures]] and [[wargaming]] conventions will sometimes feature miniature painting competitions, such as [[Games Workshop|Games Workshop's]] [[Golden Demon]] contest, and there are many painting competitions on the internet.

Professional painting services exist for hobbyist and corporate customers.

== Manufacture ==
There are two basic methods to manufacture figures: centrifugal/gravity casting and plastic injection casting.

Most metal and resin figures are made through [[spin casting]]. Larger resin models, like buildings and vehicles, are sometimes gravity cast which is a slower process. For this process a sculptor will deliver a master figure which is then used to create rubber master and production moulds. The production moulds are then used to cast the actual figures you find in the stores.

[[Polyethylene]] and [[polystyrene]] figures are made through [[injection moulding]]. A machine heats plastic and injects it under high pressure into a steel mould. This is a very expensive process which is only cost effective when you manufacture very large amounts of figures since the cost per cast is minimal.

Many miniatures companies do not do the actual production themselves but leave this to specialised casting companies or miniatures companies that do have a casting facility.

Notable miniatures companies include (in alphabetical order) the following, among others:
* Alternative armies (Flintloque)
* Artizan Design - UK based manufacturer of 28 mm high pewter figurines
* Assault Group, 28 mm historical miniatures.
* Battlefront ([[Flames of War]])15 mm (WWII)
* Black Scorpion Miniatures 28 mm/30 mm.
* [[Citadel Miniatures]] ([[Games Workshop]]) - (formed 1979, plastic and metal for ''[[Warhammer Fantasy Battle|Warhammer Fantasy]]'', ''[[Warhammer 40,000]]'', ''[[The Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game]]'', and other games)
* Crocodile Games - 28 mm fantasy figures, WarGods of Aegyptus, Miniature design for Paizo Publishing's Pathfinder RPG
* [[Dark Horse Games]]
* Eureka Miniatures
* Steel Crown Productions - produces Exodus Wars miniatures
* [[Forge World]] - a Games Workshop subsidiary company working primarily in resin
* Hasslefree Miniatures - 28 mm, Grymn sci-fi dwarves, Post apocalyptic, guns, girls, Zombies.
* Heresy Miniatures - 28 mm, Demons, Sci-fi, Deathball, [[Thrud the Barbarian]]
* Iron Wind Metals - Based in [[Cincinnati]] are the direct heirs to the original [[Ral Partha]] molds and employ many of the same employees as the late Ral Partha Corp, including behing helmed by Mike Noe, former Line Director for Ral Partha. They currently make miniatures for [[Dungeons and Dragons]], [[Battletech]], [[Crimson Skies]], [[Shadowrun]], and [[Wargods of Ægyptus]].
* Mithril Miniatures - ''Lord of the Rings'' miniatures
* Old Glory - US figures manufacturer - 10 mm, 15 mm and 25 mm
* Peter Pig - An English figure manufacturing widely known for their WWII figures and Ruleset - (Poor Bloody Infantry). 15 mm.
* [[Privateer Press]] - ''[[Warmachine]]'', ''[[Hordes (war game)|Hordes]]'' and ''[[Iron Kingdoms]]'' RPG figures
* Quality Casting Miniatures - 15 mm (modern and WWII)
* RAFM Miniatures (They have been around since 1975 until present and have produced their own lines as well as lines for Ral Partha, Citadel, Dark Age, and Heavy Gear.)
* [[Ral Partha]] - 1975-2001; many founding members later formed Iron Wind Metals, LLC
* [[Reaper Miniatures]] - since 1992, ''Warlord'', ''CAV'', and RPG figure lines
* [[Schleich]] - Animals, comic book characters
* [[Wargames Foundry]]
* Warmodelling - Producers of figures for wargaming and modelling miniatures in 15 mm and 20 mm - 1/72 escale. Napoleonic, Ancients, WWII ...
* [[Wizkids]] - ''[[Heroclix]]'', ''[[Horrorclix]]''
* [[Wizards of the Coast]] - ''[[Dungeons & Dragons Miniatures Game]] - ''[[Axis & Allies Miniatures]]''

== Sculpting ==
Most miniatures are hand sculpted in the same size as the final figure using two component epoxy putties. The components are mixed together to create a sculpting compound which hardens in a period of 1-3 hours. There are many brands of putties and each has its own properties. Some commonly used ones are Polymerics Kneadatite blue\yellow (AKA "green stuff" and "Duro" in Europe), Milliput, A&B and Magic sculp. There is also ProCreate from the Kraftmark company.
Polymer clays have been avoided for a long time as they can not withstand the traditional mouldmaking process. Modern techniques using RTV and softer quality rubbers have made it possible to use weaker materials and [[polymer clay]] masters are more common now. [[Fimo]] is the most popular of these clays though only specific colours are used since each has its own properties.

Masters for plastic miniatures are often made in a larger scale (often 3 times the required size). The master is measured with a probe linked to a [[pantograph]] which reduces the measurements to the correct size and drives the cutter that makes the moulds.

A more recent development is the use of digital 3D models made by computer artists. These models can be used to create a physical model for mouldmaking using [[rapid prototyping]] techniques or they can be used directly to drive a CNC machine which cuts the steel mould.

=== Notable sculptors ===

:''Many sculptors, marked (*) below, now have their own "boutique" mini companies.''

* Kev Adams: Citadel, Wargames Foundry (Nicknamed 'Goblinmaster')
* Evan Allen: Battlefront
* Richard Ansell: Prolific freelance sculptor with several woodlice in his own name.
* Anthony Barton: AB Figures
* Nick Bibby: Citadel. Also sculpts ornamental animal figurines and bronzes.
* Mike Broadbent: Eureka Miniatures
* Michael "Mick" Brower: Reaper
* Steve Buddle: Dark Age, Spyglass (*)
* Sean Bullough: [[Privateer Press]], [[Games Workshop]], Fanatic & Specialist Games, [[Forge World]].<ref>http://mechanicalhorizon.deviantart.com/</ref>
* Nick Collier: Foundry, Renegade, Harlequin/Black-Tree, others. Now with The Assault Group.
* Mark Copplestone: Wargames Foundry, Copplestone Castings (*)
* John Dennett: Mid period Grenadier sculptor, creature designs for some of the classic sets. Now does larger scale "garage" kits.
* Chaz Elliott: Games Workshop, Reaper, Magnificent Egos and several others
* Chris FitzPatrick: Crocodile Games(*), Games Workshop, Ral Partha
* Andy Foster: Heresy (*)
* Sandra Garrity: Reaper, Lance & Laser, Grenadier, Miniature GameWorks
* Martin Goddard: Peter Pig
* Jes Goodwin: Citadel (Skaven, Wood Elf "war dancers", Eldar "aspect warriors", Eldar Harlequins.)
* Jeff Grace: Ral Partha, Reaper, Darksword miniatures, Wizkids Games, Privateer Press, AEG
* Matt Gubser: Reaper, Dark Age Games
* Julie Guthrie: Reaper, Grenadier
* Paul Hicks: Gripping Beast, Bolt Action Miniatures, Mongrel Miniatures, Anglian Miniatures
* Bobby Jackson: Reaper, Ral Partha, Grenadier, Magnificent Egos, Iron Heroes, Privateer Press
* Werner Klocke: [[Privateer Press]],RAFM Miniatures, Reaper, Dark Age, Excalibur, Freebooter (*)
* Philippe Ferrier Le Clerc: Dreampod 9, Minimaniak (*)
* Ian Lungold: Dark Horse Miniatures
* Tom Meier: Ral Partha, Darksword miniatures, Thunderbolt Mountain (*)
* Dennis Mize: Ral Partha, Darksword miniatures
* Ali Morrison: Citadel (samurai)
* Bob Murch: RAFM ''Call of Cthulhu'', Pulp Figures (*)
* Paul Muller:GW, freelance for Heresy & Otherworld
*[[Jonathan Myers]]: [[Third Kingdom]], [[Whimsical Entertainment]]
* Brian Nelson: Games Workshop
* Stefan B. Niehues: Hobby Products, Excalibur, Assassin, Privateer Press, Dark-Age, Masquerade-Miniatures (*)
* Bob Olley: Ral Partha Enterprises, Reaper, Olley's Armies
* Mike Owen: Wargames Foundry, Artizan Designs
* Felix Paniagua: DragonRune Miniatures (founder), Games Workshop, Privateer Press, Avatars of War (founder)
* [[Alan and Michael Perry]]: [[Wargames Foundry]], [[Games Workshop]], [[Perry Miniatures]] (*).
* Sylvain Quirion: Dragonrune, EM4, Fanatic, Fenryll, Magnificent Egos, Reaper, Hasslefree.
* Bob Ridolfi: Reaper
* Ben Saunders: Privateer Press, Wizkids Games, Upper Deck, Mongoose Publishing
* Steve Saunders: Ral Partha, Reaper, Privateer Press, Wizkids Games, Upper Deck, Wyrd Games, Tactical Miniatures, Aberrant Games, AEG, Mongoose Publishing
* [[Jack Scruby]] (1916 - 1988) began casting figures made of type metal in 1955.
* Dave Summers: Ral Partha, Darksword Miniatures, Wizkids Games, Upper Deck, Prvateer Press
* Chris Tubb: Mithril
* Kev White: Ground Zero Games, Clarecraft, Harlequin Miniatures, Target Games, Wizards of the Coast, Privateer Press, Xyston, i-Kore, Dark Age, The Figure Trader, and now his own company [[www.hasslefreeminiatures.co.uk]](*)
* Jason Wiebe (weibe): Reaper, WoTC, Wizkids, Kenzerco, Privateer Press, Aberrant Games, Magnificent Egos, Upper Deck,
* Jeff Wilhelm: Ral Partha, Wizkids Games, Wyrd Games, Mongoose Publishing, Dragonforge Design (*)
* James Van Schaik: Reaper, Wizkids Games, RAFM, Ral Partha, Aberrant Games, Games Workshop, Magnificent Egos, Mongoose Publishing, Windsor Design Works, Dark Age
* Chris Fitzpatrick: Ral Partha, Games Workshop, owner of Crocodile Games

==Miniatures in Dungeons & Dragons==
===Manufacture===
The original ''[[Dungeons & Dragons]]'' role-playing game bore the subtitle, "Rules for Fantastic Miniature Wargames Campaigns Playable with Paper and Pencil and Miniature Figures." Initially, fantasy wargamers used figures designed for [[historical wargaming]], but eventually, new lines of fantasy figures appeared.

[[TSR, Inc.]] produced a line of official ''[[Advanced Dungeons & Dragons]]'' miniatures. Other companies have produced a multitude of figures for ''[[Dungeons & Dragons]]'' and other games in various [[Scale (ratio)|scales]]. [[Hasbro]], in the early states of publishing ''Dungeon & Dragons Third Edition'', produced a new game called ''[[Chainmail (game)|Chainmail]]'' based on simplified ''D&D'' rules. That project was abandoned, and the ''[[Dungeons & Dragons Miniatures Game]]'' now serves as the game's official line of miniatures, in addition to being played as a standalone game.

Traditionally, figures were made of [[lead]] or [[pewter]] and cast from silicone rubber vulcanised moulds. Many are still made of pewter or other [[alloy]]s, but plastic miniatures have grown in popularity. Both ''[[Mage Knight]]'' and the ''[[Dungeons & Dragons Miniatures Game]]'' use prepainted, collectible plastic figures.

===Gameplay===
Originally, ''D&D'' was simply a miniatures game, with the distinction that each player controlled a single figure and a wider variety of moves or plays were possible. As the game grew and changed, miniatures remained a way of visually representing tactical situations.

''Dungeons & Dragons'' did not require miniatures, although it suggested ways of using them, and referred interested players to the official line of ''AD&D'' figures. ''AD&D'' did assume the use of miniatures. ''Player's Option: Combat & Tactics'' introduced a more elaborate grid-based combat system that emphasized the use of miniatures; a streamlined version of some of these concepts made their way into ''Dungeons & Dragons Third Edition''.

Although not strictly necessary, the use of miniatures is assumed in the current version of the game, and many game mechanics refer explicitly to the combat grid. In addition to reducing ambiguity about the size and position of characters, this allows the game rules to define rules such as reach, threatened areas, and movement rates intended to simulate a particular reality. A side benefit, from the standpoint of Hasbro, is driving miniature sales, which are potentially an [[evergreen]] market compared to the easily saturated market for more books among customers who already own the core rulebooks.

==See also==
*[[Miniature conversion]]
*[[Miniature wargaming]]
*[[Model figure]]
*[[Toy soldier]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

==External links==

* [http://miniaturefx.com/ MiniatureFX], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials
* [http://www.alexcastro.com Alex Castro's Miniature Masterpieces], blog and gallery of the artist and author.
* [http://theminiaturespage.com The Miniatures Page], a source of daily news about the tabletop wargaming hobby. Includes directory of miniatures manufacturers.
* [http://www.solegends.com/ The Stuff of Legends], a large reference for lists and pictures of fantasy and sf miniatures.
* [http://www.miniaturesatlas.com Miniatures Atlas], a reference of miniatures currently available for sale.
* [http://scalemodel.net ScaleModel.NET] International list of scale model related web site, searchable web directory for miniature figures.
* [http://www.themouldmaker.com/ The Mouldmaker], information on silicon-rubber mouldmaking and white metal casting.

[[Category:Miniatures games]]
[[Category:Role-playing game terms]]
[[Category:Scale modeling]]
[[Category:Types of sculpture]]

[[it:Miniatura (gioco)]]

Architectural model

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:''Not be confused with [[Software Architectural Model]]''

[[Image:Architectural model condo highrise.jpg|right|thumb|Architectural model promoting highrise condominium.]]

An '''architectural model''' is a type of a [[scale model]], tangible (also called sometimes physical) representation of a structure built to study aspects of an [[Architecture|architectural design]] or to communicate design ideas to clients, committees, and the general public. Architectural models are a tool which may be used for show, presentation, fundraising, obtaining permits, and sale purposes.

Rough study models can be made quickly using cardboard, wooden blocks, polystyrene, foam, foam boards and other materials. Such models are an efficient tool for three-dimensional understanding of a design, used by architects, interior designers and exhibit designers. For a highly detailed presentation model, architects would employ a professional model maker or model making company.

==Purpose==

Architectural models are used by architects for a range of purposes -

* Quick, [[ad hoc]] models are sometimes made to study the interaction of volumes, or to get an idea of how they look from different angles. Designing a building using rough models can be a very open-ended and practical method of exploring ideas.

* Models are an efficient method for exhibiting and selling a design. Many people, including developers and would-be house buyers, cannot visualise a design in three dimensions (3-D) from two-dimensional (2-D) drawings. An architect may employ small-scale physical models, or digital computer models, to help explain the ideas.

* A model may be useful in explaining a complicated or unusual design to the building team, or as a focus for discussion between the design teams such as architects, engineers and town planners.

* Models are also used as show pieces, for instance as a feature in the reception of a prestigious building, or as part of a museum exhibition (for example scale replicas of historical buildings).

==Types==
[[Image:Auckland Museum Model Stage II.jpg|right|thumb|Model of a museum building.]]
[[Image:Architectural model condo interior.jpg|right|thumb|Model of a building interior.]]
[[Image:Palais Thurn und Taxis Modell.jpg|thumb|right|Model of an historic building]]
[[Image:Pottery tower 6.JPG|thumb|[[History of China|Ancient Chinese]] model of two residential towers, made of [[earthenware]] during the [[Han Dynasty]], 2nd century BC to 2nd century AD]]
Some types of model include -
* '''Exterior models''' are models of buildings which usually include some landscaping or civic spaces around the building.
* '''Interior models''' are models showing interior space planning, finishes, colors, furniture and beautification.
* '''Landscaping design models''' are models of landscape design and development representing features such as walkways, small bridges, pergolas, vegetation patterns and beautification. Landscaping design models usually represent public spaces and may, in some cases, include buildings as well.
* '''Urban models''' are models typically built at a much smaller scale (starting from 1:500 and less, 1:700, 1:1000, 1:1200, 1:2000, 1:2000, representing several city blocks, even whole town or village, large resort, campus, industrial facility, military base and such. Urban models are a vital tool for town/city planning and development.
* '''Engineering and construction models''' show isolated building/structure elements and components and their interaction.

==Virtual modelling==
Over the last few decades, detailed construction has been increasingly designed in CAD ([[Computer Aided Design]]) systems. The technology is improving rapidly. Early virtual modelling involved the fixing of arbitrary lines and points in virtual space, mainly to produce technical drawings. Modern packages include advanced features such as databases of components, automated engineering calculations, visual fly-throughs, dynamic reflections, and accurate textures and colours.

While [[virtual tour]]s are undoubtedly useful, they are still limited to images on a computer screen and lack the sensory impact, or [[qualia]], of a physical model.{{Fact|date=May 2008}}

==Materials==
Common materials used for centuries in architectural model building were card stock, [[balsa wood]], [[basswood]] and other woods. Modern professional architectural model builders are taking advantage of twenty-first century materials, such as Taskboard, a variety of plastics, wooden and wooden-plastic composites, foams and urethane compounds.

A number of companies produce ready-made pieces for structural components (e.g. girders, beams), siding, furniture, figures (people), vehicles, trees, bushes and other features which are found in the models. Features such as vehicles, people figurines, trees, street lights and other are called "scenery elements" and serve not only to beautify the model, but also to help the observer to obtain a correct feel of scale and proportions represented by the model. Increasingly, [[rapid prototyping]] and [[solid freeform fabrication]] ('3D printing') are used to automatically construct models straight from [[Computer-aided design|CAD]] plans.<ref>''[http://filebox.vt.edu/users/brmill12/Academic/p91.pdf Rapid prototyping for architectural models]'' ([[PDF]]) - Gibson, Ian; Kvan, Thomas & Ming, Ling Wai; [[University of Hong Kong]], ''[[Rapid Prototyping (magazine)|Rapid Prototyping]]'', Volume 8, Number 2, 2002, Pages 91–99</ref>

The challenge with using these tools lies in the CAD file format. The majority of 3D printers accept the [[stereolithography]] (.STL for short) file format, which is basically a mesh that wraps around the object in 3-dimensions. It helps to visualize this as a bag of oranges wrapped in a mesh bag. If there is a "tear" in the bag, the oranges will spill out. This is similar to what happens when an STL file is not cleanly produced and prematurely sent to a 3D printer.<ref>[http://www.sweetonioncreations.com/assets/pdf/3dprinting_architecture.pdf]</ref> Clean STL files are a major challenge for architecture models produced using this technology.

Other rapid prototyping technology, also CAD based, which become very useful for architectural model making is CNC carving. Large CNC carving plotters are able to carve out of high density foam boards up to 10' x 4' topography for architectural or [[urban model]].

==Scales==

Architectural models are being constructed at much smaller [[Scale (ratio)|scale]] than their 1:1 counterpart. Standard architectural scales are different, although some of them are close to the standard scales acknowledged in the model/hobby industry. Such similarities allow us to provide high quality scenery elements for architectural models. Sometimes model railroad scales such as [[1:160 scale|1:160]] and [[1:87 scale|1:87]] are used due to ready availability of commercial figures, vehicles and trees in those scales, and models of large buildings are most often built in approximately that range of scales due to size considerations. Models representing 1-2 buildings and a modest piece of surrounding landscape may be built at a larger scale such as [[1:50]] or even [[1:24]]. Here is a useful *[http://www.architectural-models.info/scale.htm Scale Guide] to obtain more information about standard architectural scales and to help with scale selection.

[[Architects]] usually employ a professional [[model maker]] or model making company to create such models.

==Paper Architectural Model==
[[Image:House Model.JPG|thumb|right|Paper Architectural Models of (left to right) a [[Bungalow]], an [[Office]] and a [[House]].]]

Today, printable architectural models exist and are like [[origami]]. This takes a high level of skill in order to accomplish in a proper manner.*[http://www.minibldg.com]

==See also==
*[[Scale model]]
*[[Maquette]]
*[[Architectural rendering]]
*[[Building model]] (non-architectural)

==References==
{{reflist}}

==External links==
* [http://miniaturefx.com/ MiniatureFX], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials
*[http://www.modelmakers.org/ Association of Professional Model Makers (APMM)]
*[http://www.dollshousetheatre.co.uk Dolls House Theatre] The first performing model theatre in the word dedicated to keeping "theatre alive".
* {{cite web |publisher= [[Victoria and Albert Museum]]
|url= http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1240_buildings_in_miniature/
|title= Buildings in Miniature
|accessdate= 2007-06-16 }}

[[Category:Architectural communication]]
[[Category:Scale modeling]]
[[Category:Architecture]]
[[Category:Crafts]]

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[[es:Maqueta arquitectónica]]
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[[ja:建築模型]]
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[[sv:Arkitekturmodeller]]

Scale model

2009-04-15T05:09:56Z

58.106.20.142: /* External links */

[[Image:Scale Model Of The Tower Of London In The Tower Of London.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A scale model of the [[Tower of London]]. It can be found inside the tower.]]
[[Image:ScaleCarComparison.jpg|thumb|right|300px|L to R with 12 inch ruler at bottom: 1:64 [[Matchbox (toy)|Matchbox]] [[Chevrolet Tahoe]], 1:43 [[Ford]] F-100, 1:25 Revell Monogram 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra, 1:18 [[Bburago]] 1987 [[Ferrari F40]]]]
[[Image:Modeltown2006.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Model ships and castle]]

== Summary ==

A '''scale model''' is a representation or copy of an object that is larger or smaller than the actual size of the object . Very often the scale model is smaller than the original and used as a guide to making the object in full size. Scale models are built or collected for many reasons.

Professional modelmakers often create models for many professions:
*Engineers who require scale models to test the likely performance of a particular design at an early stage of development without incurring the full expense of a full-sized prototype.
*Architects who require architectural models to evaluate and sell the look of a new construction before it is built.
*Filmmakers who require scale models of objects or sets that cannot be built in full size.
*Salesmen who require scale models to promote new products such as heavy equipment and automobiles and other vehicles.

Hobbyists or amateur modelmakers make die-cast models, injection molded, model railroads, remote control vehicles, wargaming and fantasy collectibles, model ships and ships in bottles for their own enjoyment.

Scale models can also be objects of art, either being created by artists or being rediscovered and transformed into art by artists.

== Types of scale models ==
Some modelers build and collect models made from a certain medium (wood, plastic, paper, etc). Others build and collect models based on the types of object being modeled.

=== Model aircraft ===
{{main|Model aircraft}}
[[Image:Koottava DC3.JPG|thumb|right|300px|Scale model of a [[Douglas DC-3]]]]
Model aircraft are divided into two main groups: static and flying models.

====Static model aircraft====
Static model aircraft are commonly built using plastic, but wood, metal and paper also make nice models. Models are sold painted and assembled, painted but not assembled (snap-fit) or unpainted and not assembled. The most popular types of aircraft to model are commercial airliners and military aircraft. Fewer manufacturers exist today than in the 1970s, but many of the older kits are occasionally available to purchase. Aircraft can be modeled at many scales. Popular scales are, in order of size, [[1:144 scale|1:144]], [[1:72 scale|1:72]] (the most numerous), [[1:48 scale|1:48]] (sometimes referred to as ''quarter scale'' because a quarter inch represents one foot) [[1:32 scale|1:32]] and [[1:24 scale|1:24]]. Some European models are available at more metric scales such as [[1:50 scale|1:50]]. The highest quality models are made from [[injection molding|injection-molded]] plastic or cast resin. Models made from [[Vacuum forming|Vacuum formed]] plastic are generally for the more skilled builder. More inexpensive models are made from heavy [[Paper plane|paper]] or card stock. Ready-made die-cast metal models are also very popular. As well as the traditional scales, die-cast models are available in 1:200, 1:250, 1:350, 1:400, and 1:600. These scales are usually reserved for civil airliners. Static aircraft scale modeling falls broadly into 3 categories: kit assembly, scratch-building, and collection of ready-made models. Scratch-builders tend to be the top echelon in terms of skill and craftsmanship; they tend to be the most discerning when it comes to accuracy and detail and they spend far more time on far fewer models than a kit assembler. Kit assemblers fall roughly into 2 categories: OOB (Out of Box) and Modified. Out of Box refers to the act of assembling a kit only from what is contained in the box supplied, whereas a Modifier will employ after-market products such as alternative decals, photo-etched metal detail parts, and cast resin detail or conversion parts to enhance or change the model in some way. Collectors are concerned purely with the issue of theme, and are not really interested in personal construction as such. Obviously aircraft modelers will often fall into more than one category as fancy takes them. The overwhelming majority of aircraft modelers concern themselves with depiction of real-life aircraft, but there is a smaller cadre of modelers who derive additional fun by 'bending' history a little by making models of aircraft that either never actually flew or existed, or by painting them in a color scheme that did not actually exist. This is commonly referred to as 'What-if' or 'Alternative' modeling, and the most common theme is 'Luftwaffe 1946' or 'Luftwaffe '46'. This theme stems from idea of modeling German secret projects that never saw the light of day due to the close of World War II. This concept has been extended to include British, Russian, and US experimental projects that never made it into production.

====Flying model aircraft====
{{main|Radio-controlled aircraft}}
Flying models are usually what is meant by the term ''aeromodelling''. Most flying model aircraft can be placed in one of three groups: [[Free flight (model aircraft)|free flight]], [[control line]] and [[Radio-controlled aircraft|radio controlled]]. Some flying models are realistic representation of full-sized aircraft, while others are built with no intention of looking like piloted aircraft. Flying models are often constructed like vintage full-sized aircraft. They can be built from [[Scratch building|scratch]] or from kits. Some kits take many hours to put together and some kits are [[Almost Ready to Fly|almost ready to fly]] or [[Ready To Fly|ready to fly]].

=== Model buildings ===
{{main|Building model}}
[[Image:Layoutinsuffolkva.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Model building for an [[HO scale]] railroad]]
Most hobbyist who build models of buildings do so as part of a [[diorama]] to enhance their other models such as a [[model railroading|model railroad]] or model war machines. As a stand-alone hobby, building models are probably most popular among enthusiasts of construction toys such as [[Erector]], [[Lego]] and [[K'nex]]. Famous landmarks such as the Empire State Building, Big Ben and the White House are common subjects. Standard scales have not emerged in this hobby. Model railroaders use railroad scales for their buildings: [[HO scale]] (1:87), [[N scale]] (1:160), and [[O scale]] (1:43). Lego builders use [[Legoland|miniland]] scale (1:20) and [[Minifigure|minifig]] scale (1:48) and micro scale (1:192)<ref>In the Lego community, micro scale can refer to anything smaller than minifig scale (1:48), but 1:192 is occasionally set as a standard micro scale. This ratio is arrived at by scaling a person (6 ft) to the height of a Lego brick (3/8 inches). See ''The Unofficial Lego Builder's Guide'' by Alan Bedford, No Starch Press, 2005.</ref> Generally, the larger the building, the smaller the scale. Model buildings are made from plastic, foam, balsa wood or paper. [[Card model]]s are published in the form of a book, and some models are manufactured like 3-D puzzles. Professionally, building models are used by architects and salesmen..

===Architectural models===
{{main|Architectural model}}

Architecture firms usually employ model makers to make models of projects to sell their designs to builders and investors. These models are traditionally hand-made, but can also be computer generated. Typical scales are 1;12, 1:24, 1:48, 1:50, 1:100, 1:200, 1:500, etc.

===Dollhouses===
{{main|Dollhouse}}

Until recently dollhouses were almost always built to a scale of 1:12 (1 inch equals 1 foot), but there is currently a proliferation of dollhouses and furnishings being built to 1:24 (half inch scale), 1:48 (quarter inch scale), and 1:144th (micro (1/12") scale) for adult dollhouse enthusiasts who are looking for a house that contains all the detail of a traditional 1:12 house but takes up far less display space. Many interior and exterior fittings, furniture, wallpaper etc... are now available for all scales in a huge array of styles, with prices ranging from $2-$3 for a simple pull toys to hand-crafted artifacts costing as much or more than full-scale items.

===House portrait models===
{{main|Model house}}
Typically found in [[1:50 scale]] and also called '''Model House''', '''Model Home''' or '''Display House'''. This type of model is usually found in stately homes or specially designed houses. Sometimes this kind of model is commissioned to mark a special date like an anniversary or the completion of the architecture, or these models might be used by salesmen selling homes in a new neighborhood.

=== Model buses and trucks===
[[Image:1-64 Scale.jpg|right|thumb|300px|[[1:64 scale]] diecast trucks]]
{{main|Model commercial vehicle}}
Typically found in [[1:50 scale]], most manufacturers of commercial vehicles and [[heavy equipment]] will commission '''scale models''' made of diecast metal as promotional items to be given to prospective customers. These are also popular children's toys and collectibles. The major manufacturers of these items are [[Conrad (company)|Conrad]] and [[NZG]] in Germany. [[Corgi]] also makes some 1:50 models, as well as Dutch maker [[Tekno]].

Trucks are also found as diecast models in [[1:43 scale]] and injection moulded kits (and children's toys) in [[1:24 scale]]. Recently some manufacturers have appeared in [[1:64 scale]] like [[Code 3]].

=== Model cars ===
[[Image:1-24 Scale.jpg|right|thumb|300px|[[1:24 scale]] diecast cars including "promo" models of Dodge Intrepid and Chevy Van]]
{{main|Model car}}
Although the British scale for [[0 gauge]] was first used for [[model car]]s comprised of rectilinear and circular parts, it was the origin of the European scale for cast or injection moulded model cars. MOROP's specification of 1:45 scale for European 0 will not alter the series of cars in [[1:43 scale]], as it has the widest distribution in the world.

In America, a series of cars was developed from at first cast metal and later styrene models ("promos") offered at new-car dealerships to drum up interest. The firm [[Revell|Monogram]], and later [[Tamiya]], first produced them in a scale derived from the Architect's scale: [[1:24 scale]], while the firms [[Aluminum Metal Toys|AMT]], [[Jo-Han]], and [[Revell]] chose the scale of 1:25. Monogram later switched to this scale after the firm was purchased by Revell. Some cars are also made in [[1:32 scale]], and rolling toys are often made on the scale [[1:64 scale]]. Chinese die-cast manufacturers have recently introduced 1/72 scale into their range.

[[Model car]]s are also used in [[car design]].

=== Model construction vehicles ===
[[Image:Model construction vehicles 1 50 scale.jpg|thumb|right|150px]]

A [[model construction vehicle]] (or [[engineering vehicle]]) is a scale model or [[Die-cast toy]] that represents a construction vehicle such as an excavator, crane, concrete pump, backhoe, etc.

Construction vehicle models are almost always made in [[1:50 scale]], particularly because the cranes at this scale are often three to four feet tall when extended and larger scales would be unsuited for display on a desk or table. These models are popular as children's toys in [[Germany]]. In the US they are commonly sold as promotional models for new construction equipment, commissioned by the manufacturer of the prototype real-world equipment. The major manufacturers in Germany are Conrad and NZG, with some competition from Chinese firms that have been entering the market.

=== Model railways ===
[[Image:HO Layout 1.jpg|thumb|right|300px|An [[HO scale]] [[model railroad]].]]
[[Image:HO Scale Bachmann 44-tonner.JPG|thumb|right|300px|HO scale locomotive showing size comparison with pencil.]]
[[Image:Virginia Farmlands Rwy 2 SW8 @ Doorstown 6-17-2007.JPG|thumb|right|300px|An [[N scale]] locomotive.]]
[[Image:Livesteamtrain.jpg|thumb|300 px|A propane fired 1:8 scale [[live steam]] train running on the [[Finnish Railway Museum]]'s miniature track.]]
{{main|Rail transport modelling}}

[[Model train]]s come in a variety of scales, from 1:8 on the large end and 1:220 on the small. Each scale has its own strengths and weaknesses, and fills a different niche in the hobby. The largest models are as much as 3 meters long, the smallest a few centimeters. The most popular size is [[H0 scale]] (1:87) and second is [[N scale]] (1:160).

Model railways originally used the term "[[Rail gauge|gauge]]", which refers to the distance between the [[Rail tracks|rail]]s, just as full-size [[Rail transport|railways]] do. Although model railways were also built to different gauges, '[[Standard gauge#Standard gauge in Model railways|standard gauge]]' means 2 1/8 in (54 mm) between the inside surfaces of the rails. Now it is more typical to refer to the scale of the model, and the term [[Scale (ratio)|scale]] has replaced "gauge" in most usages. This is despite considerable confusion between countries as to the definition of [[0 scale]] and [[N scale]].

Considerable confusion often arises when referring to "scale" and "gauge", especially as some misinformed individuals tend to use the words interchangeably. The word "scale" only ever refers to the proportional size of the model, the word "gauge" only ever applies to the measurement between the inside faces of the rails. To highlight this difference, consider the various gauges used in H0 scale; A gauge of 16.5 mm is used to represent the "[[Standard gauge]]" of {{RailGauge|ussg}} (H0 scale), a gauge of 12 mm is used to represent {{RailGauge|1}} gauge (H0m) and the "[[Cape gauge]]" of {{RailGauge|3ft6in}} (H0n3-1/2) and a gauge of 9 mm is used to represent a prototype gauge of {{RailGauge|2ft}}. It is completely incorrect to refer to the mainstream scales as "H0 gauge", "N gauge" or "Z gauge"

The most popular scale to go with a given gauge was often derived at by the following roundabout process. [[Germany|German]] artisans would take strips of metal of standard metric size to make things to blueprints whose dimensions were in inches: hence "4 mm to the foot" yields the 1:76.2 size of the "00 scale". This British scale is anomalously used on the standard H0 scale (16.5 mm gauge from 3.5 mm/foot scale) tracks, however, because early electric motors weren't available commercially in smaller sizes.

The Germans have a more developed terminology, which can explain this a bit better. ''Baugrösse'' (English: "''building size''") is the alphanumeric designation, which is used in place of a numeric scale ratio. It's used for scale, as in "[[0 scale]]", "[[H0 scale]]", or "[[Z scale]]". ''Maßstab'' (English: "''measure''") is the proportion, with a colon, as in the corresponding terms "1:43", "1:87.1", and "1:220". ''Spurweite'' (English: "''track width''") is the distance between the rails, or correspondingly "32mm", "16.5 mm", and "6.5 mm", and again gauge is used for this in English. One might add to these the old use of the term scale, of "7mm to the foot" and "3.5 mm to the foot" for the first two, while the last really isn't expressible in this manner. Early 1900s German mass-produced toys had a measured gauge from rail ''centre'' to rail centre of rolled tinplate rail, with much latitude between flange & rail.

There are three different standards for the "0" scale, each of which uses tracks of 32 mm for the standard gauge. The American version continues a dollhouse scale of 1:48. It is sometimes called "quarter-gauge", as in "one-quarter-inch to the foot". The British version continued the pattern of sub-contracting to Germans; so, at 7 mm to the foot, it works out to a scale of 1:43.5. Later, MOROP, the European authority of model railroad firms, declared that the "0" gauge (still 32 mm) must use the scale of 1:45. That is, in Europe the below-chassis dimensions have to be slightly towards 4 ft. 6 inches, to allow wheel/tyre/splasher clearance for smaller than realistic curved sections.

"[[Live steam]]" railways, that you actually ride on, are built in many scales, such as 1-1/2", 1", and 3/4" to the foot. Common gauges are 7-1/2" (Western US) and 7-1/4" (Eastern US & rest of the world), 5", 4-3/4". Smaller Live Steam gauges do exist, but as the scale gets smaller, the pulling power decreases. One of the smallest gauges on which a live steam engine can pull a passenger is the now almost defunct 2-1/2" gauge.

=== Model robots ===
{{main|Model robot}}
Japanese firms have marketed toys and models of what are often called [[mecha]], nimble humanoid fighting robots. The robots which appear in animated shows, or [[anime]] are often depicted at a size between 15-20m in height, and so scales of 1:100 and [[1:144]] are common for these subjects, though other scales such as [[1:72]] are commonly used for robots and related subjects of different size.

The most prolific manufacturer of mecha models is [[Bandai]], whose [[gunpla|Gundam kit lines]] were a strong influence in the genre in the 1980s. Even today, Gundam kits are the most numerous in the mecha modeling genre, usually with dozens of new releases every year. The features of modern Gundam kits, such as color molding and snap-fit construction, have become the standard expectations for other mecha model kits.

Due to the fantasy nature of most anime robots, and the necessary simplicity of cel-animated designs, mecha models lend themselves well to stylized work, improvisations, and simple scratchbuilds. One of [[Gundam|Gundam's]] contributions to the genre was the use of a gritty wartime backstory as a part of the fantasy, and so it is almost equally fashionable to build the robots in a weathered, beaten style, as would often be expected for [[Armoured fighting vehicle|AFV]] kits as to build them in a more stylish, pristine manner.

=== Model rockets and spacecraft ===
{{main|Model rocket}}
[[Model rocket]] kits began as a development of model aircraft kits, yet the scale of 1:72 [V.close to 4 mm.::1foot] never caught on. Scales 1:48 and 1:96 are used. There are some rockets of scales 1:128, [[1:144]], and 1:200, but Russian firms put their large rockets in 1:288. Heller is maintaining its idiosyncratic standard by offering some models in the scale of 1:125.

[[Science fiction]] space ships are heavily popular in the modeling community. Models based on ships from such franchises as ''[[Star Trek]]'', ''[[Star Wars]]'', and ''[[Battlestar Galactica]]'' are regularly sold and created in scales ranging from 1:24 to 1:1400 to 1:2500 to 1:10000 for the larger ''Star Wars'' ships. Finemolds in Japan have recently released a series of high quality injection molded Star Wars kits in 1:72, and this range is supplemented by resin kits from Fantastic Plastic.

=== Model living creatures ===
{{seealso|Model figure}}
Scale models of people and animals are found in a wide variety of venues, and may be either single-piece objects or kits which must be assembled, usually depending on the purpose of the model itself. For instance, models of people as well as both domestic and wild animals are often produced for display in model cities or railroads to provide a measure of detail or realism, and scaled relative to the trains, buildings, and other accessories of a certain line of models. If a line of trains or buildings does not feature models of living creatures, those who build the models will often buy these items separately from another line in the interest of featuring people or animals. In other cases, scale model lines will feature living creatures exclusively, often focusing on educational interests. Sometimes animal figurines will not adhere to a particular scale, but some companies endeavor to produce models that are as accurately scaled as possible. One of the foremost producers of such scale models is [[Safari Ltd.]], known for such lines as the [[Carnegie collection|Carnegie Collection]], a line of dinosaur replicas that adheres to a 1:40 scale, and the Vanishing Wild Collection, featuring mammal figures on a scale of 1:15. Another to specialize in this field is [[Tamiya]], who produce dinosaurs in 1/35 scale.

Models of living creatures requiring assembly are not as common as single-piece units, but certainly not unheard of. One of the most prolific kinds of kits requiring assembly that feature living creatures are models of human and animal skeletons. Like their single-piece counterparts, such kits are often touted as being educational activities. Skeleton kits often have unique features such as glow-in-the-dark pieces or attachable internal organs. Again, dinosaurs are a popular subject for such models. There are also [[garage kit]]s which are often figures of [[anime]] characters in multiple parts which require assembly.

=== Model ships and naval wargaming ===
[[Image:Pendon's Madderport.JPG|thumb|right|300px|[[Pendon Museum]]'s model of Madderport]]
[[Image:Zinnschiffe.jpg|thumb|right|300px|[[1:1250 scale]] [[die-cast model]]s of ships]]
{{main|Ship model}}

In the first half of the twentieth century, navies used hand-made models of warships for identification and instruction in a variety of scales. That of 1:500 was called "teacher scale." Besides models made in 1:1200 and 1:2400 scales, there were also ones made to 1:2000 and 1:5000. Some, made in [[UK|Britain]], were labelled "1 inch to 110 feet," which would be 1:1320 scale, but aren't necessarily accurate. <br>
Michele Morciano says small scale ship models were produced in about 1905 linked to the wargaming rules and other publications of Fred T Jane. The company that standardised on 1:1200 was Basset-Lowke in 1908. The British Admiralty subsequently contracted with Basset-Lowke and other companies and individual craftsmen to produce large numbers of recognition models, to this scale, in 1914-18.<ref>Michele Morciano, 'Classic Waterline Ship Models in the 1:1200/1250 scale', self published, Rome 2003, page 5</ref> <br>
Just before the Second World War, the American naval historian (and [[science fiction]] author) [[Fletcher Pratt]] published a book on naval wargaming as could be done by civilians using [[ship model]]s cut off at the [[waterline]] to be moved on the floors of basketball courts and similar locales. The scale he used was non-standard (reported as 1:666), and may have been influenced by toy ships then available, but as the hobby progressed, and other rule sets came into use, it was progressively supplemented by the series 1:600, 1:1200, and 1:2400. In Britain, 1:3000 became popular and these models also have come into use in the USA. These had the advantage of approximating the [[nautical mile]] as 120 inches, 60 inches, and 30 inches, respectively. As the [[knot (speed)|knot]] is based on this mile and a 60-minute hour, this was quite handy.

After the war, firms emerged to produce models from the same white metal used to make toy soldiers. One British firm offered a tremendously wide line of merchant [[ship]]s and dockyard equipment in the scale 1:1200. In the US, at least one manufacturer, of the wartime 1:1200 recognition models, Comet, made them available for the civilian market postwar, which also drove the change to this scale. In addition, continental European manufacturers and European ship book publishers had adopted the 1:1250 drawing scale because of its similar convenience in size for both models and comparison drawings in books.

[[Image:Buddelschiff Titanic.JPG|thumb|left|Ship in bottle: this model ship is contained in an [[impossible bottle]] intended to mystify the viewer about how it was encapsulated.]]

A prestige scale for [[boat]]s, comparable to that of 1:32 for fighter planes, is 1:72, producing huge models, but there are very few kits marketed in this scale. There are now several clubs around the world for those who choose to scratch-build radio-controlled model ships and submarines in 1:72, which is often done because of the compatibility with naval aircraft kits. For the smaller ships, plank-on-frame or other wood construction kits are offered in the traditional shipyard scales of 1:96, 1:108, or 1:192 (half of 1:96). In injection-molded plastic kits, [[Airfix]] makes full-hull models in the scale which the [[Royal Navy]] has used to compare the relative sizes of ships: 1:600. [[Revell]] makes some kits to half the scale of the US Army standard: 1:570. Some American and foreign firms have made models in a proportion from the Engineer's scale: "one-sixtieth-of-an-inch-to-the-foot", or 1:720.

But the continental Europeans have an on-going project of getting rid of all conversions and measurements which they consider non-standard. As they saw how four Japanese model-making firms ([[Tamiya]], [[Hasegawa (model company)|Hasegawa]], [[Aoshima Bunka Kyozai|Aoshima]], and [[Fujimi]]) formed a cartel to apportion out the project of putting out waterline kits of the whole fleet of Japanese warships of the Second World War on the market in a proportion that no firm from any other country did - 1:700, the Europeans are attempting to have the scale of 1:400 standardized for full-hull model ships, even though some Japanese firms have produced larger ships in the luxury scale of 1:350. On the other hand, the rise of the resin kit industry in the 1990s led to the introduction of companies around the world producing kits in the 1:350 and 1:700 scales to match pre-existing injection molded kits, creating in limited production a large variety of kits of subjects which traditional injection-molding makers have not invested resources to produce, due to the expense of creating a large injection mold. In scales more conducive to wargaming, continental Europeans have long marketed waterline kits in the scales 1:1250 and more recently 1:2500 to supplement the British and American lines. The Chinese are joining them. Such trends toward standardization has not affected the Japanese firm [[Nichimo]], which still produces fit-in-the-box sizes from old molds, and 1:450 size models.

=== Manned ship models ===
{{main|Port Revel}}
Many research workers, hydraulics specialists and engineers have used scale models for over a century, in particular in towing tanks. Manned models are small scale [[Ship model|models]] that can carry and be handled by at least one person on an open expanse of water. They must behave just like real ships, giving the shiphandler the same sensations. Physical conditions such as wind, currents, waves, water depths, channels and berths must be reproduced realistically.

Manned models are used for research (e.g. ship behaviour), engineering (e.g. port layout) and for [[Port Revel|training in shiphandling]] (e.g. maritime pilots, masters and officers). They are usually at 1:25 scale.

=== Model tanks and wargaming ===
[[Image:Lancaster1.jpg|thumb|right|300px|[[American Civil War]] miniature battle at the [[Historical Miniatures Gaming Society|HMGS]] "[[Cold Wars (gaming)|Cold Wars]]" convention in [[Lancaster, Pennsylvania|Lancaster]], PA]]
{{main|Model military vehicle|Miniature wargaming}}
Just before the twentieth century, the British historian (and science fiction author and forgotten mainstream novelist) [[H. G. Wells]] published a book, ''[[Little Wars]]'', on how to play at [[battle]]s in miniature. His books use 54 mm lead figures, particularly those manufactured by Britains. His fighting system employed spring-loaded model guns which shot matchsticks.

This use of physical mechanisms was echoed in the later games of Fred Jane, whose rules required throwing darts at ship silhouettes; his collection of data on the world's fleets was later published and became renowned. Dice have largely replaced this toy mayhem for consumers.

For over a century, toy soldiers were made of [[white metal]], a lead-based alloy, often in architect's scale-based ratios in the English-speaking countries, and called [[tin soldier]]s. After the Second World War, such toys were on the market for children but now made of a safe plastic softer than styrene. American children called these "army men". Many sets were made in the new scale of 1:40. A few styrene model kits of land equipment were offered in this and in 1:48 and 1:32 scales. However, these were swept away by the number of kits in the scale of [[1:35]].

Those who continued to develop [[miniature wargaming]] preferred smaller scale models, the soldiers still made of soft plastic. Airfix particularly wanted people to buy 1:76 scale soldiers and tanks to go with "00" gauge train equipment. [[Roco]] offered 1:87 scale styrene military vehicles to go with "H0" gauge model houses. However, although there is no 1:72 scale model railroad, more toy soldiers are now offered in this scale because it is the same as the popular aircraft scale. The number of fighting vehicles in this scale is also increasing, although the number of auxiliary vehicles available is far fewer than in [[1:87 scale]].

A more recent development, especially in wargaming of land battles is 15 mm white metal miniatures, often referred to as 1:100, though this is not a correct conversion of scale. 15 mm scale actually is very close to railroad [[TT scale]] or 1:120. The use of 15 mm scale metals has grown quickly since the early 1990s as they allow a more affordable option over 28 mm if large battles are to be refought, or a large number of vehicles represented. The rapid rise in the detail and quality of castings at 15 mm scale has also helped to fuel their uptake by the wargaming community.

Armies use smaller scales still. The US Army specifies models of the scale 1:285 for its [[sand table]] wargaming. There are metal ground vehicles and helicopters in this scale, which is a near "one-quarter-inch-to-six-feet" scale. The continental powers of [[NATO]] have developed the similar scale of 1:300, even though metric standardizers really don't like any divisors other than factors of 10, 5, and 2, so maps are not commonly offered in Europe in scales with a'' "3" ''in the denominator.

Consumer [[wargame|wargaming]] has since expanded into [[fantasy]] realms, employing scales large enough to be painted in imaginative detail - so called "heroic" 28 mm figures, (roughly 1:64, or [[S scale]]). Firms which produce these do so in so small production lots that they are necessarily made of white metal. One successful company in this field is British firm [[Games Workshop]], which offers white metal and plastic war machines and soldiers for its ''[[Warhammer 40,000]]'' and ''[[Warhammer Fantasy Battle]]''. Following the cinematic release of ''[[The Lord of the Rings film trilogy|The Lord of the Rings]]'' trilogy, a [[The Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game|third miniature-based gaming line]] was created.

== Scales ==
:''For a more complete list of scale model sizes, see [[List of scale model sizes]] and [[Rail transport modelling scales]]''

[[Rail transport modelling]]s have unique scale/gauge designations, such as: [[Z gauge|Z]]; [[N scale|N]]; [[H0 scale|H0]]; [[00 gauge|00]]; [[EM gauge|EM]]; [[P4 gauge|P4]]; [[0 gauge|0]]; [[S gauge|S]]; [[1 gauge|1]]. [[Model figure]] [[Miniature figure#Scales|scales]] are usually expressed as the height of a six-foot (1.83 m) figure; for example: 54 mm. Other model scales are generally given as a ratio which expresses what a measurement on the model represents on the actual object. When buying a model train, scale sizes are referred to by letter name, not number ratio.

For hydraulic models, [[Similitude of ship models|specific scale rules]] are applied in order to obtain the correct reproduction of physical phenomenae.

=== Before the plastic model kit industry ===
Hobbyists' scale models derive from those used by the firms which made the full-sized products. Originally, a "scale" was a physical measuring instrument, a notion which survives as concerns weight. First among scales are the rulers that are triangular in cross-section and called [[architect's scale]]s or [[engineer's scale]]s. The terminology used was of this manner: "''scale size'' to ''full size''", or the reverse. An architect's scale was used to make the first affordable models: doll houses and their furniture. Its popular scales for these miniatures were "one inch to the foot" and "one-half inch to the foot"; there is also "three-quarters inch to the foot".

The ''proportion'' of the model to the [[prototype]] was originally called "size", as in "full-sized" or "half-sized", as used on a blueprint for making something that would fit on a workbench.

Shipyards were the first to use the scales to make models of things larger than a house. The scales they used were expressed in a different manner: "one-foot-to-the-inch" through "six-feet-to-the-inch" were common. During the [[Second World War]], [[battleship]] models were made "eight-foot-to-the-inch", in the later phrasing, "one-eighth-inch to the foot"; you will find these models, used for training workers, in [[maritime museum]]s. The model ship would be referred to as "one-ninety-sixth size", or "1/96th", but rarely, as there were few scales commonly used; it couldn't possibly be "1/98th scale", for example.

There were also rotary instruments in which one would line up marks on two dials to be able to translate measurements from units on the prototype to units on the model. After the production of kits to make [[plastic]] models became an industry, there were developed rulers marked in the model units and which are called scales.

=== Comparing scales ===
Phrases used are those of "larger" and "smaller" scales.
The scale of 1/8"-to-the-foot is a larger scale than 1/16"-to-the-foot,
even though the denominator is smaller. So a larger model is made to a larger scale.
You can remember this in that a full-size, or full-scale, model is larger than a half-size model.

=== Origins of the plastic model kit ===
For [[aircraft]] recognition in the Second World War, the [[Royal Air Force|RAF]] selected models to the scale of "one-sixth inch to the foot" (which was two [[United Kingdom|British]] ''lines'', a legal division of length which didn't make it to [[United States|America]], besides being a standard shipyard scale). Although some consumer models were sold pre-war in Britain to this scale, the airmens' models were pressed out of ground-up old rubber tires. This is of course the still-popular [[1:72 scale]]. It wasn't predestined to succeed; there were competitors.

The [[US Navy]], in contrast, had metal models made to the proportion 1:432, which is "nine-feet-to-the-quarter-inch". At this scale, a model six feet is about half a statute mile; and seven feet about half a nautical mile.

After the war, firms that moulded models from [[polystyrene]] entered the consumer marketplace, the American firm [[Revell]] notably offering a model of the Royal Coach around the time of the 1953 coronation. In the early years, firms offered models of aircraft and ships in "fit-the-box" size. A box that would make an impressive gift was specified, and a mould was crafted to make a model that wouldn't ludicrously slide around inside. Modellers could not compare models, nor switch parts from one kit to another. It was the British firm [[Airfix]] that brought the idea of the constant scale to the marketplace, and they picked the RAF's scale.

In the 1960s, the company [[Monogram]] offered an aircraft actually labeled as ''¼" scale'', which may have been a common contraction in factories. They meant "one-quarter-inch to the foot", or "one-forty-eighth size". Shortly thereafter, hobbyists lost the ability to distinguish the two, and now the proportion is referred to as ''scale''.

=== Terminology ===
The terms and the means of writing them down have changed, and for model kits they are now standardized for the European Union. In English-speaking countries, such terms as "1/72" were used, but the format with a colon as "1:72" is often preferred. The slash format is usually avoided with decimal fractions: "1/76.2" is usually not used; it's "1:76.2" instead. That hybrid [[00 gauge]] can also be expressed by explicitly using a mixed system of units as "4 mm:1 ft" or "1 mm:3 in", but the dimensionless form makes comparison with other scales easier.

=== Rational choice of scales ===
[[Image:Federal Plaza, Washington, DC.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Freedom Plaza is a scale model depicting the layout of the [[Federal Triangle]] and part of the [[National Mall]], [[Washington, DC]]; the diagonal slash across the layout depicts [[Pennsylvania Avenue]] ]]
[[Image:URA Gallery Singapore Central and South areas.jpg|thumb|right|300px|A 1:5000 model of the entire [[Singapore]] City is found in the [[Urban Redevelopment Authority|URA]] Gallery Museum]]The nominal height of a man is simple in the inch-based system: six feet. Many traditional scales are derived so that a figure of such a height against the model can be readily imagined as a simple relation to an inch. Although the [[metric system]] has specified a limited series of scales for blueprints and maps, when it comes to models, there may be a problem with these scales for a readily imagined person of 180 centimetres. Model railways have the additional difficulty of having to present the [[rail gauge]] as a simple number, the height of a person being secondary. Trade authorities in metric countries are attempting to specify scales that are simple mulitiples of 2 and 5, but neither tracks nor people seem to fit. In such cases, rationalization may actually be invoked for competitive advantage, to prevent interoperability with products from another manufacturing country.

On the other hand, wargaming scales have traditionally been traced to metric system, where the number of millimetres relate to the relative height of the human figure based on 180 cm standard man. Therefore 25 mm scale (popular in historical and fantasy wargaming) refers to 1:72 scale, whilst the 15 mm scale (nowadays the most popular scale in ancient, medieval and Renaissance wargaming) refers to 1:120 scale (Many manufacturers refer to 15 mm as 1:100 scale). Likewise, 50 mm scale is the same as 1:35 military model scale, and 5 mm equals 1:350 naval scale.

Rationalisation typically falls into 2 categories: Industrial Trade, and Hobbies. Industrial trade covers areas like building and maritime architecture where universally accepted scales have been established and are conformed to both in the construction of models and drawings, in order to facilitate smoother co-operation between commercial parties. The rationalisation of hobby scales has been more gradual and organic; largely driven by clubs lobbying industry, as well as tradition, and indirectly, consumer demand. A couple of artificial efforts to standardise have not been successful: ie Tamiya in the 1970's with aircraft models in 1/100th scale, and Heller with airline models in 1/125th scale. Even though rationalisation in hobby scales sounds appealing, it has not proved to be historically evident, although there may be some very gradual progress as consumer demand becomes more organised.

=== Miniatures in contemporary art ===

Miniatures and model kits are used in contemporary art whereby artists use both scratch built miniaturizations or commercially manufactured model kits to construct a dialogue between object and viewer. The role of the artist in this type of miniature is not necessarily to re-create an historical event or achieve naturalist realism, but rather to use scale as a mode of articulation in generating conceptual or theoretical exploration. Political, conceptual, and architectural examples are provided by noted artists such as [[Jake and Dinos Chapman]] (otherwise known as the Chapman Brothers), [[Ricky Swallow]], John Timberlake, [[Shaun Wilson]] or the [[Psikhelekedana]] artists from [[Mozambique]], [[James Casebere]], Oliver Boberg, Daniel Dorall, Lori Nix and Bill Finger.

[[Image:asylum_2005.jpg|thumb|right|300px|'''Daniel Dorall''', ''Asylum'', 2005, cardboard, sand, hydrocryl, plastic, 20 x 10 x 4 cm]]

== Cultural references ==
* In the movie ''[[Zoolander]]'' the character [[Mugatu]] entices Zoolander to model for his fashion label by offering to build an educational facility and shrine to Zoolander's dead friend called "Derek Zoolander's Centre for Kid's Who Can't Read Good and Other Things". Mugatu shows Zoolander a scale model of the centre and Zoolander freaks out because he thinks it is at 1:1 scale, and thus, very small. He demands that the building must be at least "3 times the size".

* In the movie ''[[This Is Spinal Tap]]'', the band request a stage design of the [[Neolithic]] site [[Stonehenge]] to accompany their song of the same name. Instead of the full size, tiny models are built as it turns out the units on the construction drawing were marked as [[inch]]es instead of [[Foot (length)|feet]].

* Season 7 of TV series ''[[CSI: Crime Scene Investigation]]'' dealt with the pursuit of ''[[The Miniature Killer]]'', a serial killer who would leave a half-inch scale model of the crime scene at each of her murders.

== See also ==
* [[Computer-aided design]]
* [[Die-cast toy]]
* [[Historical Miniatures Gaming Society]]
* [[IPMS]], International Plastic Modellers' Society
* [[Maquette]]
* [[Miniature figure]]
* [[Miniature park]]
* [[Miniature pioneering]]
* [[Miniature effect]]
* [[Model figure]]
* [[Solar system model]]
* [[Standard gauge#Standard gauge in model railways|Standard gauge in model railways]]
* [[Model Railway Scales]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

==External links==
{{commonscat|Models}}
* [http://miniaturefx.com/ MiniatureFX], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials
* [http://www.modelmakers.org/ Association of Professional Model Makers, APMM]
* [http://www.BuildingScaleModelAircraft.com BuildingScaleModelAircraft.com] A website about the hobby of building scale model aircraft
* [http://www.72scale.com The Definitive 1/72 Scale Model Census] Listings of commercially produced die-cast and kit models, including aircraft, space, sci-fi, figures, vehicles, and ships.
* [http://www.kitmaker.net/ KitMaker Network] Scale modeling communities, media and online resources.
* [http://mikes-steam-engines.co.uk/ Photos of toy steam engines]
* [http://www.scalefirehouse.com/ The Scale Firehouse - Emergency Vehicle Scale Models]
* [http://www.rtvmodeler.com/ RTV Modeler] Military Models in scale with articles and galleries.
* [http://clayton707.googlepages.com Clayton's model ship page] Features many model links and practicums
* [http://www.gaugeone.org The Gauge One Model Railway Association]
{{scale model}}

[[Category:Scale modeling|*]]
[[Category:Scale model scales]]
[[Category:Architectural communication]]
[[Category:Model aircraft]]

[[ar:نموذج مصغر]]
[[da:Skalamodel]]
[[de:Modellbau]]
[[el:Μακέτα]]
[[es:Maqueta]]
[[fr:Maquette]]
[[it:Modellismo]]
[[nl:Schaalmodel]]
[[ja:スケールモデル]]
[[pl:Modelarstwo redukcyjne]]
[[pt:Maquete]]
[[fi:Pienoismalli]]
[[tr:Maketçilik]]
[[zh:比例模型]]

Figure painting (hobby)

2009-04-15T05:08:06Z

58.106.20.142: /* Miniature-figure painting */

{{Howto|date=May 2008}}
'''Figure painting''' is the [[hobby]] of painting [[miniature figure]]s and/or [[model figure]]s, either in its own right or as an adjunct to [[role-playing game]]s, [[wargame]]s, [[military model]]ing, etc.

Because of the small scale of these figures, the often finely sculpted detail can be lost by simply applying solid color. Many of special techniques allow the painter to emphasize the detail in the figure and make it "come alive".

==Materials==
===Paints===
Most hobbyists use [[acrylic paint]], maybe [[artist]]s' paint (such as [[Daler Rowney]]'s ''Cryla'') but more often that sold especially for painting minis and other scale models (such as Acrylicos Vallejo's ''Model Color'' and ''Game Color'' or [[Games Workshop]]'s ''Citadel Colour''). Some mini painters use [[enamel paint]] (e.g., [[Humbrol]] or Testors) or even artists' [[oil paint]]. Some hobbyists use synthetic [[Lacquer]] paints, such as Gunze-Sangyo's ''Mr. Color'' paint line. Lacquer paints are less commonly available in the United States due to safety issues.

Because the properties of oils, enamels, lacquers, and acrylics differ, different techniques (see below) suit different paints.

===Thinners===
Each kind of paint has a different thinner, used to thin the paint for a smoother coverage, and maybe to clean brushes.
* acrylic: water
* enamel: enamel thinners or white spirit
* lacquer: lacquer thinner
* oil: white spirit

Thinners for thinning should be kept separate from thinners for cleaning to avoid contaminating one color with another. Ideally, thinners for thinning should be added to the paint using an eye-dropper ([[pipette]]) or something similar; paint brushes must be kept out of the thinners bottle!

===Inks===
Water-based inks can be used for washes (see below).

===Agents===
Different agents can be used with different kinds of paint.
* retarder: makes paints slower drying
* flow aid: used with acrylics and inks, this reduces the surface tension of the water, to improve washes

===Varnishes===
Figures are very often [[varnish]]ed (especially if they will be used for game play).

Gloss varnishes are harder wearing than matte varnishes, but matte varnish often gives a more realistic finish. (Exceptions are naturally glossy materials, such as polished leather and metals, and wet surfaces.) Some enthusiasts use matte varnish over gloss varnish. This can also minimize the tendency of matte varnish to form a whitish residue when applied directly to paint.

==Tools==
===Brushes===
Sculptors can pack an incredible amount of detail into these figures, and painting may require the finest [[brush#Artists' brushes|brush]]es... maybe as fine as ''00000'' (''5/0''). Most painters will use a range of different brush sizes; ''1'', ''00'', and ''0000'' is a likely minimum set.

Good quality brushes are important for the best results. [[Kolinsky sable]] brushes that take a fine point are preferred, although hog or synthetic brushes are better for "rough" work: undercoating and dry brushing (see below).

An [[Airbrush]] is also a commonly used tool. Airbrushing facilitates leveled painting surfaces and allows for effects like gradiants and soft blended edges. Because of the detail work involved, airbrushes with a small tip diameter are considered more useful.

===Brush care===
The number one rule is to clean brush frequently and thoroughly to avoid contamination of one color with another. For other brush care, see [[brush]].

===Palettes===
A palette is essential for mixing and thinning paints before application. It doesn't have to be elaborate: a plain [[ceramic]] [[tile]] will do. But it should be non-porous to avoid "sucking" the solvent out of the paint.

===Wet palette===
A wet palette is especially useful with acrylics that dry quickly on a dry palette. A wet palette is a sealable container with a layer of absorbent material (such as tissue paper) that can be soaked with water and a [[semi-permeable membrane]] (such as [[greaseproof paper]] or [[baking paper]] (silicone paper)) over that. The paint sits on the membrane and is kept wet by [[osmosis]]. Wet palettes can be bought, but are easily made.

==Techniques==
===Undercoating===
Undercoating, commonly known as priming, is essential to good results. It provides a better surface for the paint to adhere to and – with [[white metal]] minis – inhibits corrosion of the alloy.

The undercoat may be any color. Some painters always use black, which provides the deepest shadows in hard-to-reach areas that later painting might miss, but which can be difficult to cover with paler colors.

===Highlighting and shading===
Highlighting and shading are complementary techniques used to emphasize the light and shade across the surface texture of the figure, such as creases and folds in fabric, fur, etc.

Highlighting is the application of lighter tones than the base color to raised areas. Shading is the application of darker tones to recessed areas.

===Blending===
Blending ensures the smooth transition of the different tones into one another to improve the verisimilitude of the faux light and shade. This different tones are simply worked into one another on the figure while the paint is still wet.

Blending works well with enamels (and oils) but not with acrylics, which dry too quickly, unless a retarder is used.

===Layering and feathering===
The same effect as blending can be achieved with acrylics by applying successive layers of color in smaller and smaller areas ("feathers"). The layers of paint build up a "hill" of successively lighter (or darker) tones.

===Dry brushing===
Dry brushing is a highlighting technique that works especially well with finely textured surfaces such as fur, feathers, and [[chainmail]]. After applying the base color and initial highlighting and shading, a very light tone is applied by lightly dragging an almost-dry brush across the surface.

===Using washes===
Washes of thinned paint or inks can be used to "fill in" the shadows.

===Toning===
A very diluted transparent layer of color can be applied to soften harsh contrasts.

===Outlining and edging===
''Outlining'' is painting a solid dark thin line that separates areas and defines details by acting as a bold shadow. The darkest tone should be used. Black gives the greatest contrast and might suit minis rather than larger-scale model figures; this would be ''blacklining''.

''Edging'' is a less-often used complementary technique with the lightest tone.

===Painting metals===
Metallic paints are available in all kinds of paint and can be used for metals. Some blending etc. may be required; for example, ''gunmetal'' might be highlighted with ''silver''. Black or brown ink washes can provide suitable shading and can be particularly effective for large areas of metal such as plate [[armour]]. Most of these paints, however, are relatively dull and lack the "lustre" of true metal.

Some painters use [[alcohol]]-based metallic paints that have a brilliant finish... but these need to be used with care, especially in conjunction with acrylics, as contact with water can cause tarnishing.

Bright steel can be achieved with [[white metal]] and [[pewter]] figures by burnishing and gloss varnishing the unpainted metal. This works particularly well with swords, axes, etc.

===Non-metallic metals (NMMs)===
Many painters prefer to simulate the appearance of metals using non-metallic paints.

For example, steel can by mimicked by using various shades of grey from black to white. The aim is not to define light and shadow but the play of light across a polished surface. This is really the same technique that [[airbrush]] artists might use to simulate a [[glossy]] surface, but applied to a 3D model.

==Competition==
Some figure producers promote Figure painting through competition. As an example, [[Games Workshop]] runs their [[Golden Demon]] competitions at Games Day events, which is restricted to Games Workshop's own figures or scratch-built figures for Games Workshop game settings.

==References==
* Sheperd Paine, ''Building and Painting Scale Figures'' (ISBN 1-85310-496-5)
* Jerry Scutts, ''Modelling and Painting Figures'' (Osprey 2000) (ISBN 1-902579-23-2)
* Alex Castro, ''The Art of Painting Miniatures Faces & Figures'' (Compendium Modelling Classics) (ISBN 1-902579-62-3)
==External links==
===Paints===
* [http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/ Acrylicos Vallejo]
* [http://www.airfix.com/paints.asp Humbrol]
* [http://www.testors.com/ Testors]
* [http://www.reapermini.com/Paints Reaper]

===Miniature-figure painting===

* [http://miniaturefx.com/ MiniatureFX], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials
* [http://theminiaturespage.com/paintserv/ Directory of Painting Services at TMP], directory of professional painting services

* [http://www.alexcastro.com/ Miniature Masterpieces] painted miniatures by Alex Castro

* [http://www.jrn-works.dk/ jrn-works.dk], painted miniatures by Jakob Rune Nielsen
* [http://www.blackmoor.ca/ Angela Imrie], gallery of painted figures
* [http://www.brushthralls.com/ BrushThralls], gallery and tutorials

* [http://www.coolminiornot.com/ CoolMiniOrNot?], a huge gallery with minis voted on by visitors; forums and tutorials

* [http://www.steve-dean.co.uk Steve Dean]
* [http://www.djdminis.com/ DJD Miniatures], Gallery of painted figures, tips, tutorials and more

* [http://www.jenova.dk/ Inge Mygind Jensen ("Jenova")]
* [http://www.hot-lead.org/ "Hot Lead" - Laszlo Jakusovszky], gallery and tutorials

* [http://www.necrotales.com/ Necrotales.com], gallery and tutorials by Kep Pump

* [http://www.slavetopaint.com/ Slave to Paint Studios]

* [http://www.spencerkeen.com/ Spencer Keen]
* [http://www.groundforge.co.uk/ Groundforge]
* [http://www.dansvillewargamers.com/ Dansville Wargamers]

[[Category:Painting techniques]]
[[Category:Hobbies]]

Figure painting (hobby)

2009-04-06T13:07:04Z

58.106.20.142: /* Miniature-figure painting */

{{Howto|date=May 2008}}
'''Figure painting''' is the [[hobby]] of painting [[miniature figure]]s and/or [[model figure]]s, either in its own right or as an adjunct to [[role-playing game]]s, [[wargame]]s, [[military model]]ing, etc.

Because of the small scale of these figures, the often finely sculpted detail can be lost by simply applying solid color. Many of special techniques allow the painter to emphasize the detail in the figure and make it "come alive".

==Materials==
===Paints===
Most hobbyists use [[acrylic paint]], maybe [[artist]]s' paint (such as [[Daler Rowney]]'s ''Cryla'') but more often that sold especially for painting minis and other scale models (such as Acrylicos Vallejo's ''Model Color'' and ''Game Color'' or [[Games Workshop]]'s ''Citadel Colour''). Some mini painters use [[enamel paint]] (e.g., [[Humbrol]] or Testors) or even artists' [[oil paint]]. Some hobbyists use synthetic [[Lacquer]] paints, such as Gunze-Sangyo's ''Mr. Color'' paint line. Lacquer paints are less commonly available in the United States due to safety issues.

Because the properties of oils, enamels, lacquers, and acrylics differ, different techniques (see below) suit different paints.

===Thinners===
Each kind of paint has a different thinner, used to thin the paint for a smoother coverage, and maybe to clean brushes.
* acrylic: water
* enamel: enamel thinners or white spirit
* lacquer: lacquer thinner
* oil: white spirit

Thinners for thinning should be kept separate from thinners for cleaning to avoid contaminating one color with another. Ideally, thinners for thinning should be added to the paint using an eye-dropper ([[pipette]]) or something similar; paint brushes must be kept out of the thinners bottle!

===Inks===
Water-based inks can be used for washes (see below).

===Agents===
Different agents can be used with different kinds of paint.
* retarder: makes paints slower drying
* flow aid: used with acrylics and inks, this reduces the surface tension of the water, to improve washes

===Varnishes===
Figures are very often [[varnish]]ed (especially if they will be used for game play).

Gloss varnishes are harder wearing than matte varnishes, but matte varnish often gives a more realistic finish. (Exceptions are naturally glossy materials, such as polished leather and metals, and wet surfaces.) Some enthusiasts use matte varnish over gloss varnish. This can also minimize the tendency of matte varnish to form a whitish residue when applied directly to paint.

==Tools==
===Brushes===
Sculptors can pack an incredible amount of detail into these figures, and painting may require the finest [[brush#Artists' brushes|brush]]es... maybe as fine as ''00000'' (''5/0''). Most painters will use a range of different brush sizes; ''1'', ''00'', and ''0000'' is a likely minimum set.

Good quality brushes are important for the best results. [[Kolinsky sable]] brushes that take a fine point are preferred, although hog or synthetic brushes are better for "rough" work: undercoating and dry brushing (see below).

An [[Airbrush]] is also a commonly used tool. Airbrushing facilitates leveled painting surfaces and allows for effects like gradiants and soft blended edges. Because of the detail work involved, airbrushes with a small tip diameter are considered more useful.

===Brush care===
The number one rule is to clean brush frequently and thoroughly to avoid contamination of one color with another. For other brush care, see [[brush]].

===Palettes===
A palette is essential for mixing and thinning paints before application. It doesn't have to be elaborate: a plain [[ceramic]] [[tile]] will do. But it should be non-porous to avoid "sucking" the solvent out of the paint.

===Wet palette===
A wet palette is especially useful with acrylics that dry quickly on a dry palette. A wet palette is a sealable container with a layer of absorbent material (such as tissue paper) that can be soaked with water and a [[semi-permeable membrane]] (such as [[greaseproof paper]] or [[baking paper]] (silicone paper)) over that. The paint sits on the membrane and is kept wet by [[osmosis]]. Wet palettes can be bought, but are easily made.

==Techniques==
===Undercoating===
Undercoating, commonly known as priming, is essential to good results. It provides a better surface for the paint to adhere to and – with [[white metal]] minis – inhibits corrosion of the alloy.

The undercoat may be any color. Some painters always use black, which provides the deepest shadows in hard-to-reach areas that later painting might miss, but which can be difficult to cover with paler colors.

===Highlighting and shading===
Highlighting and shading are complementary techniques used to emphasize the light and shade across the surface texture of the figure, such as creases and folds in fabric, fur, etc.

Highlighting is the application of lighter tones than the base color to raised areas. Shading is the application of darker tones to recessed areas.

===Blending===
Blending ensures the smooth transition of the different tones into one another to improve the verisimilitude of the faux light and shade. This different tones are simply worked into one another on the figure while the paint is still wet.

Blending works well with enamels (and oils) but not with acrylics, which dry too quickly, unless a retarder is used.

===Layering and feathering===
The same effect as blending can be achieved with acrylics by applying successive layers of color in smaller and smaller areas ("feathers"). The layers of paint build up a "hill" of successively lighter (or darker) tones.

===Dry brushing===
Dry brushing is a highlighting technique that works especially well with finely textured surfaces such as fur, feathers, and [[chainmail]]. After applying the base color and initial highlighting and shading, a very light tone is applied by lightly dragging an almost-dry brush across the surface.

===Using washes===
Washes of thinned paint or inks can be used to "fill in" the shadows.

===Toning===
A very diluted transparent layer of color can be applied to soften harsh contrasts.

===Outlining and edging===
''Outlining'' is painting a solid dark thin line that separates areas and defines details by acting as a bold shadow. The darkest tone should be used. Black gives the greatest contrast and might suit minis rather than larger-scale model figures; this would be ''blacklining''.

''Edging'' is a less-often used complementary technique with the lightest tone.

===Painting metals===
Metallic paints are available in all kinds of paint and can be used for metals. Some blending etc. may be required; for example, ''gunmetal'' might be highlighted with ''silver''. Black or brown ink washes can provide suitable shading and can be particularly effective for large areas of metal such as plate [[armour]]. Most of these paints, however, are relatively dull and lack the "lustre" of true metal.

Some painters use [[alcohol]]-based metallic paints that have a brilliant finish... but these need to be used with care, especially in conjunction with acrylics, as contact with water can cause tarnishing.

Bright steel can be achieved with [[white metal]] and [[pewter]] figures by burnishing and gloss varnishing the unpainted metal. This works particularly well with swords, axes, etc.

===Non-metallic metals (NMMs)===
Many painters prefer to simulate the appearance of metals using non-metallic paints.

For example, steel can by mimicked by using various shades of grey from black to white. The aim is not to define light and shadow but the play of light across a polished surface. This is really the same technique that [[airbrush]] artists might use to simulate a [[glossy]] surface, but applied to a 3D model.

==Competition==
Some figure producers promote Figure painting through competition. As an example, [[Games Workshop]] runs their [[Golden Demon]] competitions at Games Day events, which is restricted to Games Workshop's own figures or scratch-built figures for Games Workshop game settings.

==References==
* Sheperd Paine, ''Building and Painting Scale Figures'' (ISBN 1-85310-496-5)
* Jerry Scutts, ''Modelling and Painting Figures'' (Osprey 2000) (ISBN 1-902579-23-2)
* Alex Castro, ''The Art of Painting Miniatures Faces & Figures'' (Compendium Modelling Classics) (ISBN 1-902579-62-3)
==External links==
===Paints===
* [http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/ Acrylicos Vallejo]
* [http://www.airfix.com/paints.asp Humbrol]
* [http://www.testors.com/ Testors]
* [http://www.reapermini.com/Paints Reaper]

===Miniature-figure painting===

* [http://theminiaturespage.com/paintserv/ Directory of Painting Services at TMP], directory of professional painting services

* [http://www.alexcastro.com/ Miniature Masterpieces] painted miniatures by Alex Castro

* [http://www.jrn-works.dk/ jrn-works.dk], painted miniatures by Jakob Rune Nielsen
* [http://www.blackmoor.ca/ Angela Imrie], gallery of painted figures
* [http://www.brushthralls.com/ BrushThralls], gallery and tutorials

* [http://www.coolminiornot.com/ CoolMiniOrNot?], a huge gallery with minis voted on by visitors; forums and tutorials

* [http://www.steve-dean.co.uk Steve Dean]
* [http://www.djdminis.com/ DJD Miniatures], Gallery of painted figures, tips, tutorials and more

* [http://www.jenova.dk/ Inge Mygind Jensen ("Jenova")]
* [http://miniaturefx.com/ MiniatureFX], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials

* [http://www.hot-lead.org/ "Hot Lead" - Laszlo Jakusovszky], gallery and tutorials

* [http://www.necrotales.com/ Necrotales.com], gallery and tutorials by Kep Pump

* [http://www.slavetopaint.com/ Slave to Paint Studios]

* [http://www.spencerkeen.com/ Spencer Keen]
* [http://www.groundforge.co.uk/ Groundforge]
* [http://www.dansvillewargamers.com/ Dansville Wargamers]

[[Category:Painting techniques]]
[[Category:Hobbies]]

Figure painting (hobby)

2009-04-06T13:06:44Z

58.106.20.142: /* Miniature-figure painting */

{{Howto|date=May 2008}}
'''Figure painting''' is the [[hobby]] of painting [[miniature figure]]s and/or [[model figure]]s, either in its own right or as an adjunct to [[role-playing game]]s, [[wargame]]s, [[military model]]ing, etc.

Because of the small scale of these figures, the often finely sculpted detail can be lost by simply applying solid color. Many of special techniques allow the painter to emphasize the detail in the figure and make it "come alive".

==Materials==
===Paints===
Most hobbyists use [[acrylic paint]], maybe [[artist]]s' paint (such as [[Daler Rowney]]'s ''Cryla'') but more often that sold especially for painting minis and other scale models (such as Acrylicos Vallejo's ''Model Color'' and ''Game Color'' or [[Games Workshop]]'s ''Citadel Colour''). Some mini painters use [[enamel paint]] (e.g., [[Humbrol]] or Testors) or even artists' [[oil paint]]. Some hobbyists use synthetic [[Lacquer]] paints, such as Gunze-Sangyo's ''Mr. Color'' paint line. Lacquer paints are less commonly available in the United States due to safety issues.

Because the properties of oils, enamels, lacquers, and acrylics differ, different techniques (see below) suit different paints.

===Thinners===
Each kind of paint has a different thinner, used to thin the paint for a smoother coverage, and maybe to clean brushes.
* acrylic: water
* enamel: enamel thinners or white spirit
* lacquer: lacquer thinner
* oil: white spirit

Thinners for thinning should be kept separate from thinners for cleaning to avoid contaminating one color with another. Ideally, thinners for thinning should be added to the paint using an eye-dropper ([[pipette]]) or something similar; paint brushes must be kept out of the thinners bottle!

===Inks===
Water-based inks can be used for washes (see below).

===Agents===
Different agents can be used with different kinds of paint.
* retarder: makes paints slower drying
* flow aid: used with acrylics and inks, this reduces the surface tension of the water, to improve washes

===Varnishes===
Figures are very often [[varnish]]ed (especially if they will be used for game play).

Gloss varnishes are harder wearing than matte varnishes, but matte varnish often gives a more realistic finish. (Exceptions are naturally glossy materials, such as polished leather and metals, and wet surfaces.) Some enthusiasts use matte varnish over gloss varnish. This can also minimize the tendency of matte varnish to form a whitish residue when applied directly to paint.

==Tools==
===Brushes===
Sculptors can pack an incredible amount of detail into these figures, and painting may require the finest [[brush#Artists' brushes|brush]]es... maybe as fine as ''00000'' (''5/0''). Most painters will use a range of different brush sizes; ''1'', ''00'', and ''0000'' is a likely minimum set.

Good quality brushes are important for the best results. [[Kolinsky sable]] brushes that take a fine point are preferred, although hog or synthetic brushes are better for "rough" work: undercoating and dry brushing (see below).

An [[Airbrush]] is also a commonly used tool. Airbrushing facilitates leveled painting surfaces and allows for effects like gradiants and soft blended edges. Because of the detail work involved, airbrushes with a small tip diameter are considered more useful.

===Brush care===
The number one rule is to clean brush frequently and thoroughly to avoid contamination of one color with another. For other brush care, see [[brush]].

===Palettes===
A palette is essential for mixing and thinning paints before application. It doesn't have to be elaborate: a plain [[ceramic]] [[tile]] will do. But it should be non-porous to avoid "sucking" the solvent out of the paint.

===Wet palette===
A wet palette is especially useful with acrylics that dry quickly on a dry palette. A wet palette is a sealable container with a layer of absorbent material (such as tissue paper) that can be soaked with water and a [[semi-permeable membrane]] (such as [[greaseproof paper]] or [[baking paper]] (silicone paper)) over that. The paint sits on the membrane and is kept wet by [[osmosis]]. Wet palettes can be bought, but are easily made.

==Techniques==
===Undercoating===
Undercoating, commonly known as priming, is essential to good results. It provides a better surface for the paint to adhere to and – with [[white metal]] minis – inhibits corrosion of the alloy.

The undercoat may be any color. Some painters always use black, which provides the deepest shadows in hard-to-reach areas that later painting might miss, but which can be difficult to cover with paler colors.

===Highlighting and shading===
Highlighting and shading are complementary techniques used to emphasize the light and shade across the surface texture of the figure, such as creases and folds in fabric, fur, etc.

Highlighting is the application of lighter tones than the base color to raised areas. Shading is the application of darker tones to recessed areas.

===Blending===
Blending ensures the smooth transition of the different tones into one another to improve the verisimilitude of the faux light and shade. This different tones are simply worked into one another on the figure while the paint is still wet.

Blending works well with enamels (and oils) but not with acrylics, which dry too quickly, unless a retarder is used.

===Layering and feathering===
The same effect as blending can be achieved with acrylics by applying successive layers of color in smaller and smaller areas ("feathers"). The layers of paint build up a "hill" of successively lighter (or darker) tones.

===Dry brushing===
Dry brushing is a highlighting technique that works especially well with finely textured surfaces such as fur, feathers, and [[chainmail]]. After applying the base color and initial highlighting and shading, a very light tone is applied by lightly dragging an almost-dry brush across the surface.

===Using washes===
Washes of thinned paint or inks can be used to "fill in" the shadows.

===Toning===
A very diluted transparent layer of color can be applied to soften harsh contrasts.

===Outlining and edging===
''Outlining'' is painting a solid dark thin line that separates areas and defines details by acting as a bold shadow. The darkest tone should be used. Black gives the greatest contrast and might suit minis rather than larger-scale model figures; this would be ''blacklining''.

''Edging'' is a less-often used complementary technique with the lightest tone.

===Painting metals===
Metallic paints are available in all kinds of paint and can be used for metals. Some blending etc. may be required; for example, ''gunmetal'' might be highlighted with ''silver''. Black or brown ink washes can provide suitable shading and can be particularly effective for large areas of metal such as plate [[armour]]. Most of these paints, however, are relatively dull and lack the "lustre" of true metal.

Some painters use [[alcohol]]-based metallic paints that have a brilliant finish... but these need to be used with care, especially in conjunction with acrylics, as contact with water can cause tarnishing.

Bright steel can be achieved with [[white metal]] and [[pewter]] figures by burnishing and gloss varnishing the unpainted metal. This works particularly well with swords, axes, etc.

===Non-metallic metals (NMMs)===
Many painters prefer to simulate the appearance of metals using non-metallic paints.

For example, steel can by mimicked by using various shades of grey from black to white. The aim is not to define light and shadow but the play of light across a polished surface. This is really the same technique that [[airbrush]] artists might use to simulate a [[glossy]] surface, but applied to a 3D model.

==Competition==
Some figure producers promote Figure painting through competition. As an example, [[Games Workshop]] runs their [[Golden Demon]] competitions at Games Day events, which is restricted to Games Workshop's own figures or scratch-built figures for Games Workshop game settings.

==References==
* Sheperd Paine, ''Building and Painting Scale Figures'' (ISBN 1-85310-496-5)
* Jerry Scutts, ''Modelling and Painting Figures'' (Osprey 2000) (ISBN 1-902579-23-2)
* Alex Castro, ''The Art of Painting Miniatures Faces & Figures'' (Compendium Modelling Classics) (ISBN 1-902579-62-3)
==External links==
===Paints===
* [http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/ Acrylicos Vallejo]
* [http://www.airfix.com/paints.asp Humbrol]
* [http://www.testors.com/ Testors]
* [http://www.reapermini.com/Paints Reaper]

===Miniature-figure painting===

* [http://theminiaturespage.com/paintserv/ Directory of Painting Services at TMP], directory of professional painting services

* [http://www.alexcastro.com/ Miniature Masterpieces] painted miniatures by Alex Castro

* [http://www.jrn-works.dk/ jrn-works.dk], painted miniatures by Jakob Rune Nielsen
* [http://www.blackmoor.ca/ Angela Imrie], gallery of painted figures
* [http://www.brushthralls.com/ BrushThralls], gallery and tutorials

* [http://www.coolminiornot.com/ CoolMiniOrNot?], a huge gallery with minis voted on by visitors; forums and tutorials

* [http://www.steve-dean.co.uk Steve Dean]
* [http://www.djdminis.com/ DJD Miniatures], Gallery of painted figures, tips, tutorials and more

* [http://www.jenova.dk/ Inge Mygind Jensen ("Jenova")]
* [http://miniaturefx.com/ "MiniatureFX"], reviews, galleries, interviews and tutorials

* [http://www.hot-lead.org/ "Hot Lead" - Laszlo Jakusovszky], gallery and tutorials

* [http://www.necrotales.com/ Necrotales.com], gallery and tutorials by Kep Pump

* [http://www.slavetopaint.com/ Slave to Paint Studios]

* [http://www.spencerkeen.com/ Spencer Keen]
* [http://www.groundforge.co.uk/ Groundforge]
* [http://www.dansvillewargamers.com/ Dansville Wargamers]

[[Category:Painting techniques]]
[[Category:Hobbies]]