Gasherbrum II - Revision history

Volcanoguy: added mapframe parameters in infobox

2024-10-08T19:08:04Z

added mapframe parameters in infobox

← Previous revision		Revision as of 19:08, 8 October 2024
Line 21:		Line 21:
	\| first_ascent = July 7, 1956, by [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart<ref name="peakbagger" />		\| first_ascent = July 7, 1956, by [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart<ref name="peakbagger" />
	\| easiest_route = Snow/ice climb		\| easiest_route = Snow/ice climb
			\| mapframe = yes
	\| embedded = {{Infobox mapframe \|wikidata=yes \|coord={{WikidataCoord\|display=i}}}}
			\| mapframe-wikidata = yes
	}}		}}

اُسید محمود: Translated the English 2 to the Urdu ۲

2024-09-27T20:46:38Z

Translated the English 2 to the Urdu ۲

← Previous revision		Revision as of 20:46, 27 September 2024
Line 3:		Line 3:
	\| name = Gasherbrum II		\| name = Gasherbrum II
	\| other_name =		\| other_name =
	{{nq\|گاشر برم-2}}<br />K4		{{nq\|گاشر برم - ۲}}<br />K4
	\| photo = Gasherbrum2.jpg		\| photo = Gasherbrum2.jpg
	\| photo_caption = Gasherbrum II from [[Base Camp]]		\| photo_caption = Gasherbrum II from [[Base Camp]]

Cewbot: Convert Cory Richards to wikilink (The bot operation is completed 21.1% in total)

2024-09-20T20:45:35Z

Convert Cory Richards to wikilink (The bot operation is completed 21.1% in total)

← Previous revision		Revision as of 20:45, 20 September 2024
Line 68:		Line 68:
	On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.		On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.

	On February 2, 2011, ~~{{ill\|~~Cory Richards (climber)~~\|lt=Cory Richards\|pl~~\|Cory Richards}}, [[Denis Urubko]], and [[Simone Moro]] made the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. Despite being buried by a class-four [[avalanche]], they reached the summit at 11:30 am, without supplemental oxygen or [[porter (carrier)\|porter]]s. Richards, who was the first American to climb an eight-thousander in winter, filmed the expedition, which he turned into the film ''Cold''.<ref name="macdonald2011"/><ref name="cahall"/>		On February 2, 2011, [[Cory Richards (climber)\|Cory Richards]], [[Denis Urubko]], and [[Simone Moro]] made the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. Despite being buried by a class-four [[avalanche]], they reached the summit at 11:30 am, without supplemental oxygen or [[porter (carrier)\|porter]]s. Richards, who was the first American to climb an eight-thousander in winter, filmed the expedition, which he turned into the film ''Cold''.<ref name="macdonald2011"/><ref name="cahall"/>

	On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>		On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>

John of Reading: /* 2020s */ Typo fixing, replaced: skiied → skied

2024-08-20T11:39:13Z

2020s: Typo fixing, replaced: skiied → skied

← Previous revision		Revision as of 11:39, 20 August 2024
Line 73:		Line 73:

	=== 2020s ===		=== 2020s ===
	In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully ~~skiied~~ Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Benavides \|first=Angela \|date=2021-07-11 \|title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak » Explorersweb \|url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>		In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully skied Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Benavides \|first=Angela \|date=2021-07-11 \|title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak » Explorersweb \|url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>

	On July 19, 2023, [[Andrzej Bargiel]] made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and began his ski descent from 26,362 feet up, over 8,000m.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Close \|first=Greta \|date=2023-07-26 \|title=Skiing Amongst Lions: Andrzej Bargiel's Gasherbrum II Descent \|url=https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/skiing-amongst-lions-andrzej-bargiels-gasherbrum-ii-descent/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Backcountry Magazine \|language=en-US}}</ref>		On July 19, 2023, [[Andrzej Bargiel]] made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and began his ski descent from 26,362 feet up, over 8,000m.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Close \|first=Greta \|date=2023-07-26 \|title=Skiing Amongst Lions: Andrzej Bargiel's Gasherbrum II Descent \|url=https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/skiing-amongst-lions-andrzej-bargiels-gasherbrum-ii-descent/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Backcountry Magazine \|language=en-US}}</ref>

Ukiyology1 at 17:36, 31 July 2024

2024-07-31T17:36:25Z

← Previous revision		Revision as of 17:36, 31 July 2024
Line 15:		Line 15:
	\| label_position = right		\| label_position = right
	\| listing = [[Eight-thousander]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak\|Ultra]]		\| listing = [[Eight-thousander]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak\|Ultra]]
	\| location = [[Baltistan]], [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], ~~India~~<br />[[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County\|Tashkurgan]], [[Xinjiang]], China, [[China–Pakistan border]]		\| location = [[Baltistan]], [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], Pakistan<br />[[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County\|Tashkurgan]], [[Xinjiang]], China, [[China–Pakistan border]]
	\| range = [[Karakoram]]		\| range = [[Karakoram]]
	\| coordinates = {{coord\|35\|45\|30\|N\|76\|39\|12\|E\|type:mountain_scale:100000\|format=dms\|display=inline,title}}		\| coordinates = {{coord\|35\|45\|30\|N\|76\|39\|12\|E\|type:mountain_scale:100000\|format=dms\|display=inline,title}}

103.44.53.119 at 04:53, 14 July 2024

2024-07-14T04:53:29Z

← Previous revision		Revision as of 04:53, 14 July 2024
Line 15:		Line 15:
	\| label_position = right		\| label_position = right
	\| listing = [[Eight-thousander]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak\|Ultra]]		\| listing = [[Eight-thousander]]<br />[[Ultra prominent peak\|Ultra]]
	\| location = [[Baltistan]], [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], ~~Pakistan~~<br />[[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County\|Tashkurgan]], [[Xinjiang]], China, [[China–Pakistan border]]		\| location = [[Baltistan]], [[Gilgit–Baltistan]], India<br />[[Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County\|Tashkurgan]], [[Xinjiang]], China, [[China–Pakistan border]]
	\| range = [[Karakoram]]		\| range = [[Karakoram]]
	\| coordinates = {{coord\|35\|45\|30\|N\|76\|39\|12\|E\|type:mountain_scale:100000\|format=dms\|display=inline,title}}		\| coordinates = {{coord\|35\|45\|30\|N\|76\|39\|12\|E\|type:mountain_scale:100000\|format=dms\|display=inline,title}}

WikiCleanerBot: v2.05b - Bot T19 CW#25 - Fix errors for CW project (Heading hierarchy)

2024-07-01T18:15:10Z

v2.05b - Bot T19 CW#25 - Fix errors for CW project (Heading hierarchy)

← Previous revision		Revision as of 18:15, 1 July 2024
Line 39:		Line 39:
	The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=27 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>		The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=27 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>

	==== 1970s ====		=== 1970s ===
	In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

	Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

	==== 1980s ====		=== 1980s ===
	Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.		Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.

Line 55:		Line 55:
	In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes\|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news \|url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html \|language=sl \|first=Viki \|last=Grošelj \|title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta \|trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World \|date=17 November 2012 \|newspaper=Delo.si \|issn=0350-7521}}</ref>		In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes\|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news \|url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html \|language=sl \|first=Viki \|last=Grošelj \|title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta \|trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World \|date=17 November 2012 \|newspaper=Delo.si \|issn=0350-7521}}</ref>

	==== 1990s ====		=== 1990s ===
	In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name="aaj">{{cite book\|author=American Alpine Club\|author-link=American Alpine Club\|title=1997 American Alpine Journal\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329\|access-date=10 March 2013\|year=1997\|publisher=The Mountaineers Books\|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9\|issn=0065-6925\|page=329}}</ref>		In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name="aaj">{{cite book\|author=American Alpine Club\|author-link=American Alpine Club\|title=1997 American Alpine Journal\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329\|access-date=10 March 2013\|year=1997\|publisher=The Mountaineers Books\|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9\|issn=0065-6925\|page=329}}</ref>

	In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed\|date=April 2019}}		In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed\|date=April 2019}}

	==== 2000s ====		=== 2000s ===
	In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert\|50\|cm\|in\|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>		In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert\|50\|cm\|in\|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>

	[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope\|fixed]] around {{convert\|1200\|m\|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert\|150\|m\|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin"/>		[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope\|fixed]] around {{convert\|1200\|m\|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert\|150\|m\|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin"/>

	==== 2010s ====		=== 2010s ===
	On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.		On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.

Line 72:		Line 72:
	On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>		On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>

	==== 2020s ====		=== 2020s ===
	In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully skiied Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Benavides \|first=Angela \|date=2021-07-11 \|title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak » Explorersweb \|url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>		In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully skiied Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Benavides \|first=Angela \|date=2021-07-11 \|title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak » Explorersweb \|url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>

Nayyn: added further details and references

2024-06-14T13:29:11Z

added further details and references

← Previous revision		Revision as of 13:29, 14 June 2024
Line 33:		Line 33:

	==Climbing history==		==Climbing history==
	The mountains of the Gasherbrum group were explored in 1909 by the [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] and [[Vittorio Sella]]. The Abruzzi Glacier, a tributary of the Baltoro Glacier, is named after the Duke.<ref name="filippi">{{cite book\|last1=Filippi\|first1=Filippo de\|last2=di Savoia\|first2=Luigi Amedeo\|author-link2=Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi\|title=Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909: An Account of the Expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qmIxAQAAMAAJ\|access-date=27 March 2013\|year=1912\|publisher=[[E. P. Dutton]]\|location=New York}}</ref>{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		The mountains of the Gasherbrum group were explored in 1909 by the [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] and [[Vittorio Sella]]. The [[Abruzzi Glacier]], a tributary of the [[Baltoro Glacier]], is named after the Duke.<ref name="filippi">{{cite book\|last1=Filippi\|first1=Filippo de\|last2=di Savoia\|first2=Luigi Amedeo\|author-link2=Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi\|title=Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909: An Account of the Expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qmIxAQAAMAAJ\|access-date=27 March 2013\|year=1912\|publisher=[[E. P. Dutton]]\|location=New York}}</ref>{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

	In 1934, [[Günter Dyhrenfurth]] and his International Himalayan Expedition, including [[André Roch]], explored Gasherbrum I and II, making it {{convert\|6250\|m\|ft}} up Gasherbrum II.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}{{sfn\|Dyhrenfurth\|1955\|p=198}}		In 1934, [[Günter Dyhrenfurth]] and his International Himalayan Expedition, including [[André Roch]], explored Gasherbrum I and II, making it {{convert\|6250\|m\|ft}} up Gasherbrum II.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}{{sfn\|Dyhrenfurth\|1955\|p=198}}
Line 39:		Line 39:
	The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=27 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>		The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=27 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>

			==== 1970s ====
	In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

	Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

			==== 1980s ====
	Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.		Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.

	On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news\|last=Hussain\|first=Manzoor\|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter\|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|access-date=15 March 2013\|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]\|date=July 2, 2000\|archive-date=7 November 2017\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107013542/http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|url-status=dead}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> ~~During~~ ~~that~~ ~~year,~~ ~~Messner~~ ~~also~~ ~~climbed~~ ~~two~~ ~~other~~ ~~eight-thousanders,~~ ~~[[Kangchenjunga]] and [[Broad Peak]], and attempted [[Cho Oyu]]. He wrote a~~ book, ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{lang-de\|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}})~~, about this~~.<ref name="chessler">{{cite web\|last=Chessler\|first=Michael\|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?\|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm\|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering\|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>		On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news\|last=Hussain\|first=Manzoor\|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter\|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|access-date=15 March 2013\|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]\|date=July 2, 2000\|archive-date=7 November 2017\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107013542/http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|url-status=dead}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> He wrote of his climb of Gasherbrum II in the book ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{lang-de\|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}}).<ref name="chessler">{{cite web\|last=Chessler\|first=Michael\|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?\|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm\|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering\|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>

	In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].		In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].

	In August 1984, a French expedition led by Daniel Croisot, reached summit and achieved the integral first descent by ski of Gasherbrum II, as witnessed and joined by Dominique Dock who was medical officer for the expedition.		In August 1984, a French expedition led by Daniel Croisot, reached the summit and achieved the integral first descent by ski of Gasherbrum II, as witnessed and joined by Dominique Dock who was medical officer for the expedition. Patrice Bournat and Wim Pasquier skied the sowthwest ridge to Base Camp from 7,500 meters.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Croisot \|first=Daniel \|date=1985 \|title=AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Attempt \|url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198531102 \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=publications.americanalpineclub.org}}</ref>

	In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes\|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news \|url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html \|language=sl \|first=Viki \|last=Grošelj \|title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta \|trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World \|date=17 November 2012 \|newspaper=Delo.si \|issn=0350-7521}}</ref>		In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes\|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news \|url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html \|language=sl \|first=Viki \|last=Grošelj \|title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta \|trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World \|date=17 November 2012 \|newspaper=Delo.si \|issn=0350-7521}}</ref>

			==== 1990s ====
	In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name="aaj">{{cite book\|author=American Alpine Club\|author-link=American Alpine Club\|title=1997 American Alpine Journal\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329\|access-date=10 March 2013\|year=1997\|publisher=The Mountaineers Books\|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9\|issn=0065-6925\|page=329}}</ref>		In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name="aaj">{{cite book\|author=American Alpine Club\|author-link=American Alpine Club\|title=1997 American Alpine Journal\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329\|access-date=10 March 2013\|year=1997\|publisher=The Mountaineers Books\|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9\|issn=0065-6925\|page=329}}</ref>

	In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed\|date=April 2019}}		In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed\|date=April 2019}}

			==== 2000s ====
	In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert\|50\|cm\|in\|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>		In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert\|50\|cm\|in\|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>

	[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope\|fixed]] around {{convert\|1200\|m\|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert\|150\|m\|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin"/>		[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope\|fixed]] around {{convert\|1200\|m\|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert\|150\|m\|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin"/>

			==== 2010s ====
	On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.		On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.

Line 67:		Line 72:
	On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>		On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>

			==== 2020s ====
	On July 19, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks. This year, he has conquered K2, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat. He will attempt Gasherbrum I this month before he must return to Bolivia.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>
			In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully skiied Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Benavides \|first=Angela \|date=2021-07-11 \|title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak » Explorersweb \|url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>

			On July 19, 2023, [[Andrzej Bargiel]] made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and began his ski descent from 26,362 feet up, over 8,000m.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Close \|first=Greta \|date=2023-07-26 \|title=Skiing Amongst Lions: Andrzej Bargiel's Gasherbrum II Descent \|url=https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/skiing-amongst-lions-andrzej-bargiels-gasherbrum-ii-descent/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Backcountry Magazine \|language=en-US}}</ref>

	==See also==		==See also==

Nayyn: added reference

2024-06-13T14:05:16Z

added reference

← Previous revision		Revision as of 14:05, 13 June 2024
Line 71:		Line 71:
	==See also==		==See also==
	{{Portal\|Mountains\|Pakistan\|China}}		{{Portal\|Mountains\|Pakistan\|China}}
			* [[List of deaths on eight-thousanders#Gasherbrum II\|List of deaths on Gasherbrum II]]
	* [[Eight-thousander]]		* [[Eight-thousander]]
	* [[List of mountains in China]]		* [[List of mountains in China]]

InternetArchiveBot: Rescuing 2 sources and tagging 0 as dead.) #IABot (v2.0.9.5

2024-05-21T14:45:49Z

Rescuing 2 sources and tagging 0 as dead.) #IABot (v2.0.9.5

← Previous revision		Revision as of 14:45, 21 May 2024
Line 30:		Line 30:

	==Naming==		==Naming==
	In 1856, [[Thomas George Montgomerie]], a member of the British [[Royal Engineers]] and part of the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]], sighted the mountain and named it "K4", meaning the fourth mountain of [[Karakoram]].<ref name="green">{{cite web\|last=Green\|first=Stewart\|title=Gasherbrum II: 13th Highest Mountain in the World\|url=http://climbing.about.com/od/8000metermountains/a/GasherbrumIIFac.htm\|publisher=[[About.com]]\|access-date=10 March 2013}}</ref> The name "Gasherbrum" comes from the [[Balti language\|Balti]] words ''rgasha'' ("beautiful") and ''brum'' ("mountain"). Contrary to popular belief, it does not mean "shining wall", which is how Sir [[William Martin Conway]] described nearby [[Gasherbrum IV]] on an 1892 exploration.<ref name="green" /><ref name="summitpostI">{{cite summitpost\|id=152035\|name=Gasherbrum I\|accessdate=9 March 2013}}</ref><ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosIV">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum IV Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20IV/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=10 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref>{{sfn\|Dyhrenfurth\|1955\|p=187}}		In 1856, [[Thomas George Montgomerie]], a member of the British [[Royal Engineers]] and part of the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]], sighted the mountain and named it "K4", meaning the fourth mountain of [[Karakoram]].<ref name="green">{{cite web\|last=Green\|first=Stewart\|title=Gasherbrum II: 13th Highest Mountain in the World\|url=http://climbing.about.com/od/8000metermountains/a/GasherbrumIIFac.htm\|publisher=[[About.com]]\|access-date=10 March 2013\|archive-date=22 September 2015\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150922162651/http://climbing.about.com/od/8000metermountains/a/GasherbrumIIFac.htm\|url-status=dead}}</ref> The name "Gasherbrum" comes from the [[Balti language\|Balti]] words ''rgasha'' ("beautiful") and ''brum'' ("mountain"). Contrary to popular belief, it does not mean "shining wall", which is how Sir [[William Martin Conway]] described nearby [[Gasherbrum IV]] on an 1892 exploration.<ref name="green" /><ref name="summitpostI">{{cite summitpost\|id=152035\|name=Gasherbrum I\|accessdate=9 March 2013}}</ref><ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosIV">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum IV Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20IV/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=10 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref>{{sfn\|Dyhrenfurth\|1955\|p=187}}

	==Climbing history==		==Climbing history==
Line 45:		Line 45:
	Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.		Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.

	On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news\|last=Hussain\|first=Manzoor\|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter\|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|access-date=15 March 2013\|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]\|date=July 2, 2000}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> During that year, Messner also climbed two other eight-thousanders, [[Kangchenjunga]] and [[Broad Peak]], and attempted [[Cho Oyu]]. He wrote a book, ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{lang-de\|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}}), about this.<ref name="chessler">{{cite web\|last=Chessler\|first=Michael\|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?\|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm\|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering\|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>		On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news\|last=Hussain\|first=Manzoor\|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter\|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|access-date=15 March 2013\|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]\|date=July 2, 2000\|archive-date=7 November 2017\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107013542/http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|url-status=dead}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> During that year, Messner also climbed two other eight-thousanders, [[Kangchenjunga]] and [[Broad Peak]], and attempted [[Cho Oyu]]. He wrote a book, ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{lang-de\|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}}), about this.<ref name="chessler">{{cite web\|last=Chessler\|first=Michael\|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?\|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm\|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering\|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>

	In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].		In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].

← Previous revision		Revision as of 13:29, 14 June 2024
Line 33:		Line 33:

	==Climbing history==		==Climbing history==
	The mountains of the Gasherbrum group were explored in 1909 by the [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] and [[Vittorio Sella]]. The Abruzzi Glacier, a tributary of the Baltoro Glacier, is named after the Duke.<ref name="filippi">{{cite book\|last1=Filippi\|first1=Filippo de\|last2=di Savoia\|first2=Luigi Amedeo\|author-link2=Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi\|title=Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909: An Account of the Expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qmIxAQAAMAAJ\|access-date=27 March 2013\|year=1912\|publisher=[[E. P. Dutton]]\|location=New York}}</ref>{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		The mountains of the Gasherbrum group were explored in 1909 by the [[Duke of the Abruzzi]] and [[Vittorio Sella]]. The [[Abruzzi Glacier]], a tributary of the [[Baltoro Glacier]], is named after the Duke.<ref name="filippi">{{cite book\|last1=Filippi\|first1=Filippo de\|last2=di Savoia\|first2=Luigi Amedeo\|author-link2=Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi\|title=Karakoram and Western Himalaya 1909: An Account of the Expedition of H.R.H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=qmIxAQAAMAAJ\|access-date=27 March 2013\|year=1912\|publisher=[[E. P. Dutton]]\|location=New York}}</ref>{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

	In 1934, [[Günter Dyhrenfurth]] and his International Himalayan Expedition, including [[André Roch]], explored Gasherbrum I and II, making it {{convert\|6250\|m\|ft}} up Gasherbrum II.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}{{sfn\|Dyhrenfurth\|1955\|p=198}}		In 1934, [[Günter Dyhrenfurth]] and his International Himalayan Expedition, including [[André Roch]], explored Gasherbrum I and II, making it {{convert\|6250\|m\|ft}} up Gasherbrum II.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}{{sfn\|Dyhrenfurth\|1955\|p=198}}
Line 39:		Line 39:
	The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=27 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>		The [[first ascent]] came on July 7, 1956, by [[Austria]]ns [[Fritz Moravec]], Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart by the Southwest Ridge. After they set up Camp I, they had to descend, and found the camp—and all their supplies and food—buried by an avalanche when they returned. Despite this, they decided to make a quick summit attempt. After opening up a route, they left Camp III on July 6. The group spent the night in a [[bivouac sack]] and reached the top at 11:30 am the next day.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="mountainsoftravelphotosII">{{cite web\|title=Gasherbrum II Photo Gallery Home\|url=http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/Gasherbrum%20II/Main.html\|publisher=Mountains of Travel Photos\|access-date=27 March 2013\|date=June 2011}}</ref><ref name="isserman">Isserman, pp. 327–328</ref>

			==== 1970s ====
	In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		In 1975, four expeditions successfully climbed Gasherbrum II, including Jean-Pierre Fresafond's French expedition, a Polish group under [[Janusz Onyszkiewicz]], and another Polish expedition led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

	Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}		Four years later, a Chilean group claimed to have used the "normal" route to reach the top. Several others, including [[Reinhard Karl]], Hanns Schell, and [[Kurt Diemberger]] also reached the summit.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}

			==== 1980s ====
	Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.		Swiss Mountaineers [[Romolo Nottaris]] and Tiziano Zünd were the first to reach the summit in alpine style on August 3, 1981.

	On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news\|last=Hussain\|first=Manzoor\|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter\|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|access-date=15 March 2013\|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]\|date=July 2, 2000\|archive-date=7 November 2017\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107013542/http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|url-status=dead}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> ~~During~~ ~~that~~ ~~year,~~ ~~Messner~~ ~~also~~ ~~climbed~~ ~~two~~ ~~other~~ ~~eight-thousanders,~~ ~~[[Kangchenjunga]] and [[Broad Peak]], and attempted [[Cho Oyu]]. He wrote a~~ book, ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{lang-de\|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}})~~, about this~~.<ref name="chessler">{{cite web\|last=Chessler\|first=Michael\|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?\|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm\|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering\|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>		On July 24, 1982, [[Reinhold Messner]], along with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Sher Khan, climbed the peak via the Southwest Ridge.{{sfn\|Messner\|1999\|p=128}}<ref name="hussain">{{cite news\|last=Hussain\|first=Manzoor\|title=Nazir Sabir - The Mountaineer and A Fighter\|url=http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|access-date=15 March 2013\|newspaper=[[Pakistan & Gulf Economist]]\|date=July 2, 2000\|archive-date=7 November 2017\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171107013542/http://www.pakistaneconomist.com/issue2000/issue26/etc3.htm\|url-status=dead}}</ref> During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing.<ref name="ava">Messner, Reinhold (2002). ''Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik'' BLV, Munich.</ref> He wrote of his climb of Gasherbrum II in the book ''3 x 8000: My Great Year in the Himalaya'' ({{lang-de\|3 x 8000: Mein grosses Himalaja-Jahr}}).<ref name="chessler">{{cite web\|last=Chessler\|first=Michael\|title=Who is Reinhold Messner?\|url=http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/Faq_Messner.htm\|publisher=Traditional Mountaineering\|access-date=30 March 2013}}</ref>

	In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].		In July 1984, Reinhold Messner and [[Hans Kammerlander]] reached both Gasherbrum II and [[Gasherbrum I]] without returning to base camp, in [[alpine style]].

	In August 1984, a French expedition led by Daniel Croisot, reached summit and achieved the integral first descent by ski of Gasherbrum II, as witnessed and joined by Dominique Dock who was medical officer for the expedition.		In August 1984, a French expedition led by Daniel Croisot, reached the summit and achieved the integral first descent by ski of Gasherbrum II, as witnessed and joined by Dominique Dock who was medical officer for the expedition. Patrice Bournat and Wim Pasquier skied the sowthwest ridge to Base Camp from 7,500 meters.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Croisot \|first=Daniel \|date=1985 \|title=AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II Attempt \|url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198531102 \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=publications.americanalpineclub.org}}</ref>

	In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes\|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news \|url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html \|language=sl \|first=Viki \|last=Grošelj \|title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta \|trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World \|date=17 November 2012 \|newspaper=Delo.si \|issn=0350-7521}}</ref>		In August 1986, Gasherbrum II was successfully ascended by a [[Slovenes\|Slovene]] expedition in only 32 hours from the base to the peak, with only 22 hours of climbing and 10 hours of rest at the altitude of 5900 m. This was by far the fastest ascent until then.<ref>{{cite news \|url=http://www.delo.si/zgodbe/sobotnapriloga/gaserbrum-najnizji-med-stirinajstimi-najvisjimi-vrhovi-sveta.html \|language=sl \|first=Viki \|last=Grošelj \|title=Gašerbrum, najnižji med štirinajstimi najvišjimi vrhovi sveta \|trans-title=Gasherbrum: The Lowest Among the Fourteen Highest Peaks of the World \|date=17 November 2012 \|newspaper=Delo.si \|issn=0350-7521}}</ref>

			==== 1990s ====
	In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name="aaj">{{cite book\|author=American Alpine Club\|author-link=American Alpine Club\|title=1997 American Alpine Journal\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329\|access-date=10 March 2013\|year=1997\|publisher=The Mountaineers Books\|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9\|issn=0065-6925\|page=329}}</ref>		In July 1996, [[Jean-Christophe Lafaille]] climbed Gasherbrum I and II in four days, without stopping at Base Camp in between.<ref name="aaj">{{cite book\|author=American Alpine Club\|author-link=American Alpine Club\|title=1997 American Alpine Journal\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA329\|access-date=10 March 2013\|year=1997\|publisher=The Mountaineers Books\|isbn=978-1-933056-44-9\|issn=0065-6925\|page=329}}</ref>

	In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed\|date=April 2019}}		In 1997 [[Anatoli Boukreev]] achieved a solo speed ascent, camp ABC (5800 metres) to summit in 9 hours 30 min.{{citation needed\|date=April 2019}}

			==== 2000s ====
	In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert\|50\|cm\|in\|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>		In 2006, [[Sebastian Haag]] and [[Benedikt Böhm]] climbed Gasherbrum II twice within a week. At 8:00 am on July 29, they reached the top and then skied down without [[abseiling]] or removing their skis. They rested for a few days before leaving Camp I again on August 3. They started out fast, reaching Camp IV in six hours, but {{convert\|50\|cm\|in\|}} of fresh snow slowed them down, and they reached the summit after over six hours of tough climbing. They descended on skis again, this time made even more dangerous by packed-down snow and the risk of avalanche. Despite this, they both made it safely back to Camp I in under 17 hours, whereas a normal expedition takes four to seven days.<ref name="exp_manaslu"/><ref name="evnews_2006"/>

	[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope\|fixed]] around {{convert\|1200\|m\|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert\|150\|m\|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin"/>		[[Karl Unterkircher]] and Daniele Bernasconi, two Italians, climbed Gasherbrum II in 2007 in [[alpine style]]. They were the first to use the North Face through China. The route had been attempted a year earlier by a German–Swiss team, but they abandoned it after an avalanche. During the attempt they [[fixed rope\|fixed]] around {{convert\|1200\|m\|ft}} of rope. They arrived at the summit around 8:00 pm on July 20, after spending the night in a [[bivouac shelter]]. A third member, Michele Compagnoni, grandson of [[Achille Compagnoni]], turned back just {{convert\|150\|m\|ft}} before the summit. The team reunited and descended down the normal, northwest route.<ref name="macdonald2007"/><ref name="griffin"/>

			==== 2010s ====
	On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.		On July 22, 2011, [[Leila Esfandyari]] successfully completed the ascent to the peak but she died while descending.

Line 67:		Line 72:
	On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>		On July 16, 2018, Felix Berg and [[Adam Bielecki (climber)\|Adam Bielecki]] summited Gasherbrum II making what is arguably the first ascent of the true West Face.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/07/adam_bielecki_and_felix_berg_make_first_ascent_of_gasherbrum_ii_west_face-71650\|title=NEWS: Adam Bielecki and Felix Berg make First Ascent of Gasherbrum II West Face\|access-date=2018-10-14\|language=en}}</ref>

			==== 2020s ====
	On July 19, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks. This year, he has conquered K2, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat. He will attempt Gasherbrum I this month before he must return to Bolivia.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>
			In 2021, two French ski teams, including Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier, Aurelia Lanoe, and Guillaume Pierrel successfully skiied Gasherbrum.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Benavides \|first=Angela \|date=2021-07-11 \|title=Two French Ski Teams Summit Gasherbrum II and Diran Peak » Explorersweb \|url=https://explorersweb.com/two-french-ski-teams-summit-gasherbrum-ii-and-diran-peak/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Explorersweb}}</ref> On July 18, 2023, [[Hugo Ayaviri]] climbed Gasherbrum II without oxygen, the fourth 8000’er in his quest to be the first Bolivian to summit all fourteen 8000m peaks.<ref>{{Cite news\|url=https://eju.tv/2023/07/ayaviri-conquista-su-cuarta-montana-el-gasherbrum-ii/\|title=Ayaviri conquista su cuarta montaña: el Gasherbrum II\|access-date=2023-07-19\|language=es}}</ref>

			On July 19, 2023, [[Andrzej Bargiel]] made the highest descent from Gasherbrum II on skis. He summitted the mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen and began his ski descent from 26,362 feet up, over 8,000m.<ref>{{Cite web \|last=Close \|first=Greta \|date=2023-07-26 \|title=Skiing Amongst Lions: Andrzej Bargiel's Gasherbrum II Descent \|url=https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/skiing-amongst-lions-andrzej-bargiels-gasherbrum-ii-descent/ \|access-date=2024-06-14 \|website=Backcountry Magazine \|language=en-US}}</ref>

	==See also==		==See also==