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Except Samuel Lee's document, No other documents claiming that Durumagi originated from China can be found. It can be possible that Durumagi was influenced by China, but No definite data that Durumagi originated from China has not been confirmed yet.
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==History==
==History==
The origin of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} traces back to at least the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times.<ref>[http://www.grandculture.net/ko/Contents?dataType=99&contents_id=GC02002237 "두루마기-한국향토문화전자대"], The Digital Local Culture Encyclopedia of Korea</ref><ref>[https://namu.wiki/w/%EB%91%90%EB%A3%A8%EB%A7%88%EA%B8%B0 "두루마기-나무위키"], Namuwiki</ref><ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wang |first1=Bo|title=唐会要 新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla |date=961 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%94%90%E6%9C%83%E8%A6%81/%E5%8D%B7095 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wei |first1=Shou |title=魏书 百济 Book of Wei – Baekje |date=551–554 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/zh/%E9%AD%8F%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7100 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Wang |first1=Qinruo |title=冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975 |date=1013 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=69385|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>Korean Historical Academia considers that the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period.<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=두루마기 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0016977 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}}</ref>
The origin of {{Transliteration|ko|durumagi}} traces back to at least the [[Three Kingdoms of Korea]], where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times.<ref>[http://www.grandculture.net/ko/Contents?dataType=99&contents_id=GC02002237 "두루마기-한국향토문화전자대"], The Digital Local Culture Encyclopedia of Korea</ref><ref>[https://namu.wiki/w/%EB%91%90%EB%A3%A8%EB%A7%88%EA%B8%B0 "두루마기-나무위키"], Namuwiki</ref><ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wang |first1=Bo|title=唐会要 新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla |date=961 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/wiki/%E5%94%90%E6%9C%83%E8%A6%81/%E5%8D%B7095 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Wei |first1=Shou |title=魏书 百济 Book of Wei – Baekje |date=551–554 |url=https://zh.m.wikisource.org/zh/%E9%AD%8F%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7100 |access-date=6 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Wang |first1=Qinruo |title=冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975 |date=1013 |url=https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=gb&chapter=69385|access-date=5 February 2021}}</ref>Korean historical academia considers that the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period.<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last1=Lee |first1=Samuel Songhoon |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-F01CwAAQBAJ&pg=PT11 |title=Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition |date=2013 |publisher=Seoul Selection |isbn=9781624120565 |pages=13–14 |access-date=2 February 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=두루마기 - 한국민족문화대백과사전 |url=https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0016977 |website=Encyclopedia of Korean Culture}}</ref>




Revision as of 13:18, 4 March 2023

Durumagi
Hangul
두루마기
Hanja
周莫衣· 周遮衣· 周衣
Revised RomanizationDurumagi / Jumagui / Juchaui / Juui
McCune–ReischauerTurumagi / Chumagi / Chuch'ai / Chui

Durumagi (Korean: 두루마기; lit. closed all around), also jumagui (Korean: 주막의; Hanja: 周莫衣), juchaui (Korean: 주차의; Hanja: 周遮衣), juui (Korean: 주의; Hanja: 周衣),[1] is a variety of po, or overcoat, in hanbok, the Korean traditional garment. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants).[2]: 120 

History

The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times.[3][4][5][6][7][8]Korean historical academia considers that the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period.[5][9]


The tomb murals from Goguryeo were primarily painted in two regions, Ji'an (集安) and Pyeongyang, which are the second and third capitals of the Goguryeo from the middle of the 4th to the middle of the 7th centuries respectively.[10]: 15  The paintings datings from this period in the region of Jian typically shows the characteristics of the people of Goguryeo in terms of morals and customs while those in the regions of Pyeongyang would typically the cultural influence of the Han dynasty, including figures dressed in Chinese-style attire, as the Han dynasty had governed this geographical region for approximately 400 years.[10]: 15  Yet Chinese-style clothes were limited to the Royal and Aristocratic attires, and It is considered that They wore Korean-style attires in normal times.[11]

However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:[12]

한국 민족의 고유복식은 저고리와 바지, 두루마기로 돼 있다. 이런 복식은 북방 호복(胡服)계열로 바지를 착용했다는 것은 기마민족(騎馬民族)이었음을 의미한다는 것이다.
The Korean people's indigenous attire consists of a jeogori, baji, and durumagi. The fact that [Korean] wore trousers in the northern hobok family means that [Korean] were a horse-riding people.

Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from Gamsinchong (龕神塚), the ancient durumagi worn by the owner of Gamsinchong tomb was red (or purple) in colour:[13]: 16 

[The tomb of owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.

The Gamsinchong murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves attire also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals which are found near the Pyeongyang area.[13]: 16  The ancient durumagi was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.[14]

Goryeo

During the Goryeo period, Mongolian influences caused the durumagi to change in appearance.[14] Not only was the waist belt changed into a goreum, the traditional po's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.[15]

Joseon period

During the Joseon dynasty, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.[16] However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.[14]

Construction and design

The durumagi is an overcoat, which is closed all around,[1] lacking side and back vents.[2]: 120  It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.[2]: 120 

Different fabrics and materials are used in making durumagi: calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.[1] White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.[17]

Types of durumagi

Blue durumagi worn by female model, white durumagi worn by male model
A Goryeo Soldier wearing a durumagi.

There are various types of which include: hotedan durumagi (Korean: 홑단 두루마기; lit. single-layer durumagi); gyup durumagi (Korean: 겹 두루마기; lit. double-layer durumagi); som durumagi (Korean: 솜 두루마기; lit. cotton durumagi); kkachi durumagi (Korean: 까치 두루마기; lit. magpie durumagi) or obangjang durumagi (Korean: 오방장 두루마기; lit. five-colours durumagi) for children.[18]

During the Goryeo-era, a unique type of armor, called Durumagi (Template:Hangul, Hanja: 逢掖) emerged as the main armor for the Korean armies up until the early Joseon period in the 15th century. The opponents of Goryeo weren't heavily armored soldiers of other Koreanic states anymore. The trend shifted towards armor that made units mobile and responsive to a conflict with nomadic Mongolic or semi-nomadic and sedentary Tungusic tribes to the North. The Durumagi is a simple overcoat or robe with scale armor inside forming dots on the outside. Commonly these scales are made from leather, or iron, but some of them are shaped like leaves or coated with mercury or black lacquer to make them shine.[19] They're also complete with a (winged) helmet with or without a hohaeg ((Template:Hangul)(Hanja: 護項)) of lamellar inside to protect their heads and necks.[20]

Modern use

2005 APEC World leaders in colourful durumagi

The durumagi is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,[21] but a variety of colours and designs are being used. Colourful durumagi were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 APEC Summit in Busan.[22]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c "두루마기" [Durumagi]. Doosan Encyclopedia (in Korean). Archived from the original on 21 March 2022. Retrieved 21 March 2022.
  2. ^ a b c Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing. Vol. VI (English ed.). Seoul: National Folk Museum of Korea. 2021. ISBN 9788928902873.
  3. ^ "두루마기-한국향토문화전자대", The Digital Local Culture Encyclopedia of Korea
  4. ^ "두루마기-나무위키", Namuwiki
  5. ^ a b Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition. Seoul Selection. pp. 13–14. ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 2 February 2021.
  6. ^ Wang, Bo (961). 唐会要 新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla. Retrieved 6 February 2021.
  7. ^ Wei, Shou (551–554). 魏书 百济 Book of Wei – Baekje. Retrieved 6 February 2021.
  8. ^ Wang, Qinruo (1013). 冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975. Retrieved 5 February 2021.
  9. ^ "두루마기 - 한국민족문화대백과사전". Encyclopedia of Korean Culture.
  10. ^ a b National Museum of Korea Editorial Team (Spring 2009). "National Museum of Korea Vol.07". Quarterly Magazine. Vol. 7, no. 7. Retrieved 26 June 2022. Goguryeo tomb murals were primarily painted in Jian集安 and Pyeongyang,平壤 the second and third capitals of the kingdom from the middle of the fourth century until the middle of the seventh, respectively. [...] They also display slightly different characteristics by region. For example, the morals and customs of Goguryeo are featured in murals found in Jian, while those in Pyeongyang show the cultural influence of the Han dynasty 202 BC-AD 220 in China, which governed the region for about four hundred years. This explains why we can see figures in Chinese-style dress in the latter.
  11. ^ "의식주 생활-우라역사넷", History Net of National Institute of Korean History
  12. ^ "두루마기 - 미주 한국일보". m.koreatimes.com. Retrieved 10 July 2022.
  13. ^ a b National Museum of Korea Editorial Team (Spring 2009). "National Museum of Korea Vol.07". Quarterly Magazine. Vol. 7, no. 7. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  14. ^ a b c (in Korean) Durumagi Archived 10 June 2011 at the Wayback Machine at Nate Encyclopedia
  15. ^ Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁), 1999, p.58 Hangilsa, Paju. ISBN 89-356-5146-X
  16. ^ (in Korean)Gapsin Clothing Reform at Doosan Encyclopedia
  17. ^ (in Korean) New hanbok, Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010
  18. ^ (in Korean) Obangjang durumagi from Daum Communications and Korea Culture & Content Agency
  19. ^ 갑(甲) (in Korean). Naver. Retrieved 11 November 2022.
  20. ^ 갑(甲) (in Korean). Naver. Retrieved 11 November 2022.
  21. ^ (in Korean) Durumagi a must, bnt news 14 February 2010
  22. ^ (in Korean) Leaders in durumagi, Nocut News 25 November 2005
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