Family farm hog pen
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The family hog pen of yesteryear and the hog farm of today in the United States are vastly different farming systems. Modern intensive hog farms in the United States have an average of about 2,000 hogs. The larger hog farms raise tens of thousands of hogs.
This article deals with the hog pens found on family farms of the early 1900’s, although modern small family farms still may keep a few pigs. Family hog pens enclosed just a few hogs to provide year round meat for the table. These were the days before refrigeration and many family farms depended on pigs as a primary source of meat and shortening (lard) for year around food. Farms which had tenant families might have several hog pens. Hog killing was an event that brought many hands into action. In this article the words “hogs” and “pigs” are used interchangeably.
The hog pen
The hog pen, or pig pen, was never a thing of beauty. By nature it is a messy place. Farming pigs outdoors poses a number of problems but the small scale of family farming made it possible to manage these problems. In particular, hogs suffer 'heat stress' in high temperatures and have no sweat glands to naturally cool themselves. To cool themselves hogs require access to water or a 'wallow', which is an area of mud. Although they are naturally quite a clean animal, without access to water or mud, pigs are forced to wallow in their own excrement. Mud also serves to protect pink pigs from sunburn and heat shock, although more pigmented varieties were used on the family farm. Alternatively, shade may be provided for the animals.
Many family farm hog pens were improvised enclosures made of any material that is handy and free. The size of the pen is often kept small to conserve building material and effort.
Slopping the Hogs
One thing for sure – hogs love to eat. Historically, these farms fed hogs grain, fruit and vegetables that are not fit to sell or for family use. Overage produce from the farmer’s market and table and restaurant scraps were often diet elements as well. This practice of 'swill feeding' (feeding table scraps) is considered a disease risk today and is banned in many countries. Historically, hogs were also allowed to forage in gardens and orchards after the harvest is over. Hogs were also fed “slops” made from middlings or corn meal stirred with milk and water.
Hog killing time
Hog killing time in the country is a big event. One method of hog killing is to cut their throats and let them bleed to death. Some farmers shoot them first, and then cut their throats. Hog killing is done on cold days. After killing, the animals were scalded and their hair scraped bare with sharp knives. They were then eviscerated (gutted) and strung up on an A-frame scaffold by inserting a strong sharp stick through the tendons of their rear legs. The carcasses are allowed to chill overnight and are ready for butchering the following day
Butchering the carcass
Very sharp knives and a cleaver are required for butchering. Good butchering is an art passed from father to son. The carcass is cut into hams, shoulders, bacon sides, pork belly, ham hocks. loins, pork chops, and other cuts of lesser importance. Then, there is the lard which must be rendered, and the chitlins to be stripped. Lard is made by heating fragments of fat in a large iron pot over a wood fire until it is reduced to simmering grease which congeals when cooled. It is stored in five-gallon lard tins with tin covers. The intestines are the stripped by drawing them through a clenched fist and then washed. Then the intestines are cut into short pieces and fried to make chitlins. The "piest de resistance" is the pork loin which is often eaten the first night. And, for days after fresh sage-flavored sausage graces the breakfast table..
The smoke house
The smoke house is essential for the preservation and long term storage of hams, shoulders, bacon sides, and pork bellies. Salt is rubbed thoroughly into each piece of meat and all surfaces are covered. Some formulas included lots of black pepper. The meat is hung on racks and hooks in the smokehouse. And then they are smoked. Fragrant hardwood, such as hickory, beech, or cherry is allowed to smolder slowly in a pit below the hanging meat. This gives added flavor and color to the meat as well as serving to dry cure the pork.