Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck (April 18 1925 - August 21 2005) was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, he initiated, organized, and led the expedition to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak (8,047 meters) in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl, and Kurt Diemberger. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world.
- 1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, Southwest face, V
- 1948 Wildalmkirchl, South traverse, V+
- 1949 Fleischbank, direct East chimney ("Schmuckkamin"), VI
- Sommerstein, West face, 1. winter ascent
- 1953 Birnhorn, South face, 1. winter ascent
- 1955 Snökuppelen, North face, IV
- Falkenstein, Southeast ridge, III
- Westbyfijell,South face, III und Southeast ridge, II
- 1956 Petit Dru, West face, rekord time 1.5 days
- Bischofsmütze direct Nord face, VI+
- 1957 Broad Peak 8047m on June 9
- Skil Brum 7420m on June 19
- 1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East ridge
- 1963 Koh i Sayoz 6920m
- Koh i Shogordok 6855m
- 1965 Darban Zom 7220m
- Wildalmkirchl, South traverse
- 1982 Musthag Ata 7546m, 3rd ascent, new route
Books
Marcus Schmuck has written the following book:
- Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.