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Darjeeling

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Darjeeling (Nepali: दार्जीलिङⓘ, Bangla: দার্জিলিং) is a town and hill station in the Indian state of West Bengal. It is the headquarters of Darjeeling district, situated in the Shiwalik Hills (on the lower range of the Himalaya) at an average elevation of 2,134 m above sea level. Once part of the Kingdom of Sikkim, the Darjeeling region was converted into a hill station by the British East India Company in the 1800s, and came to be known as the "Queen of the Hills". The name Darjeeling is a composition of two Tibetan words – Dorje ("thunderbolt") and ling ("place"), thus translating as the "Land of the thunderbolt."[1]

Darjeeling is famous for its tea industry, which produces blends considered among the world's finest. Once used as a sanitarium for British troops and administrators, the town is now a popular tourist destination. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway connecting the town with the plains was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Darjeeling is noted for several English-style public schools attracting students from all over India and neighbouring countries. The town was a major centre of Gorkhaland separatism in the 1980s, resulting in a decrease in tourism-related commerce. Darjeeling has continued to grow in the recent years and the region's fragile ecology is threatened by a rising demand for environmental resources stemming from growing tourist traffic and poorly planned urbanisation.

History

Darjeeling's proximity to Sikkim, Bhutan and Nepal is showcased in this political map of Sikkim.

Until the early nineteenth century, the area around Darjeeling was part of the kingdom of Sikkim, with settlement consisting of a few villages of Lepcha woodsmen.[2] Most of its history intertwined with that of Nepal, Bhutan and Bengal, Darjeeling came under the suzerainty of the British East India Company in 1814. In 1828, a delegation of British officials on their way to Sikkim halted in Darjeeling and found the region very suitable to be a sanitarium for British soldiers.[2] The Company negotiated a lease of the area from the Chogyal of Sikkim. Dr. Campbell, a surgeon with the Company and Lieutenant Napier (later Lord Napier of Magdala) were given the responsibility to found a hill station there; Dr. Campball became the first superintendent of the sanitorium in 1839.[3]

By 1849, the town population had grown to 10,000 people. Following discord between Sikkim and the Company, the Company annexed the Darjeeling region into the British Indian Empire.[2] The British established experimental tea plantations that by 1856 rose into a successful commercial tea industry.[4] Tea estates developed all around Darjeeling in the second half of the 19th century. During this time immigrants mainly from Nepal flooded in to work in construction sites, tea gardens, and on other agriculture-related projects.[2] Scottish missionaries undertook the construction of schools and welfare centres for the British residents, including the St. Paul's School, established in 1849 in the Jalapahar area. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway opened in 1881, facilitating rapid communication between the town and the plains below.[5] The Government House was developed as a summer retreat for the Governor-General of India. In 1898, Darjeeling experienced an earthquake that caused considerable damage to the young town and native population, described by the British as the "Darjeeling disaster."[6] [7]

Under British rule, the Darjeeling area was a "Non-Regulation District" – acts and regulations of the British Raj did not automatically come into force in the district in line with rest of the country, unless they were specifically extended to it.[8] After the 1905 Partition of Bengal, the area came under the jurisdiction of the Rajshahi division. An increasing number of well-to-do Indian residents of Kolkata also began visiting and touring Darjeeling. The town continued to grow as a tourist destination, becoming known as the "Queen of the Hills."[9] Darjeeling's elite residents were the British ruling class of the time, who visited Darjeeling every summer, affluent Maharajas of princely states, land-owning zamindars and some well-known barristers of the Calcutta High Court.[10] The population growth of the area was slow in the first half of the 20th century.[11] The town did not see any particular political activity during the freedom struggle of India owing to its remote location and meagre population. However, there was a failed assassination attempt by revolutionaries on Sir John Anderson, the Governor of Bengal in the 1930s.[8]

After the independence of India in 1947, Darjeeling became a part of the state of West Bengal. A separate district of Darjeeling was established consisting of the hilly towns of Darjeeling, Kurseong, Kalimpong and some parts of the Terai region. When the People's Republic of China annexed Tibet in 1950, thousands of Tibetan refugees settled across Darjeeling town and district. A diverse ethnic population gave rise to socio-economic tensions, and the demand for the creation of the separate states of Gorkhaland and Kamtapur along ethnic lines grew popular in the 1980s. The issues came to a head after a 40-day strike called by the Gorkha National Liberation Front, during which violence gripped the city, causing the state government to call in the Indian Army to restore order. Political tensions largely declined with the establishment of Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council under the chairmanship of Subash Gishing.[12] The DGHC was given semi-autonomous powers to govern the district. Later the name of DGHC was changed to Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council (DGAHC). Though Darjeeling is now peaceful, the issue of a separate state still lingers.

Geography and climate

Mount Kanchenjunga from Tiger Hill

Darjeeling is located at an average elevation of 6,982 ft. or 2,134 m[13] in the Darjeeling Himalayan hill region on the Darjeeling-Jalapahar range that originates in the south from Ghum. The range is Y-shaped with the base resting at Katapahar and Jalapahar and two arms diverging north of Observatory Hill. The north-eastern arm dips suddenly and ends in the Lebong spur, while the north-western arm passes through the St. Joseph's College and ends in the valley near Tukver Tea Estate.[11]

Darjeeling is the main town of the Sadar subdivision and also the headquarters of the district. Most of the Darjeeling district, including the town of Darjeeling lies in the Shiwalik Hills (or Lower Himalaya). The soil is chiefly composed of sandstone and conglomerate formations, which are the solidified and upheaved detritus of the great range of Himalaya. However, the soil is often poorly consolidated as the permeable sediments of the region do not retain water between rains and is usually considered not suitable for agriculture. The area has steep slopes and loose topsoil, leading to frequent landslides in the monsoon. According to the Bureau of Indian Standards, the town falls under seismic zone-IV, (in a scale of I to V, in order of increasing proneness to earthquakes)[14] near the convergent boundary of the Indian and the Eurasian tectonic plates. The hills are nestled within higher peaks and the snow-clad Himalayan ranges tower over the town in the distance. Mount Kanchenjunga (8,591 m or 28,185 feet) – the world's third-highest peak – looming over the town is a famous sight. In days clear of clouds, Nepal's Mount Everest (8,850 m) is also visible.[15]

Darjeeling's temperate climate has five distinct seasons: spring, summer, autumn, winter, and the monsoons. Summers (lasting from May to June) are mild, with maximum temperatures barely crossing 25 °C (77 °F). The monsoon season from June to September is characterised by intense torrential rains that lash at the town, often causing landslides that block Darjeeling's land access to the rest of the country. Winters see temperature averaging 5–7 °C (41–44 °F). Occasionally the temperatures drop below freezing, inducing rare snowfall. During the monsoon and winter seasons, Darjeeling is often shrouded in mist and fog. The annual mean temperature is 12 °C (53 °F); monthly mean temperatures range from 5–17 °C (41–62 °F).[16] The highest temperature ever recorded in the district was 26.7 °C (80.1 °F) on 23 August 1957; the lowest-ever temperature recorded was −5 °C (23 °F) on 11 February 1905.[17] The average annual precipitation is 281.8 cm (110.9 in), with the highest incidence occurring in July (75.3 cm or 29.6 in).[16] The town of Darjeeling and surrounding region continues to face the challenges of deforestation due to increasing demand for wood fuel and timber as well as air pollution from increasing vehicular traffic.[18] Flora around Darjeeling includes temperate, deciduous forests of poplar, birch, oak, and elm as well as evergreen, coniferous trees of wet alpine. Dense evergreen forests lie around the town and the valley, where a wide variety of rare orchids are found. The Lloyd's Botanical Garden showcases and preserves common and rare species of flora, while the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park is the only specialised zoo in the country conserving and breeding endangered Himalayan species.[19]

Government and utility services

File:DarjeelingSewageNew.jpg
A sewer running behind houses. Such channels lead the sewage to central septic tanks

Darjeeling urban agglomeration consists of Darjeeling Municipality and the Pattabong Tea Garden.[20] Established in 1850, the Darjeeling municipality maintains the civic administration of the town, covering an area of 10.57 km².[20] The municipality is a separate entity from the Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council (previously "Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council" — DGHC). It composes of a board of councilors elected from each of the 32 wards of Darjeeling town as well as a few members nominated by the state government. The board of councilors elects a chairman from among its elected members;[11] the chairman is the executive head of the municipality. The Gorkha National Liberation Front (GNLF) at present holds power in the municipality. On the other hand, the Gorkha-dominated hill areas of the whole Darjeeling district is under the jurisdiction of the Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council since its formation in 1988. The DGHC's elected councilors are authorized to manage certain affairs of the hills, including education, health and tourism. The town is within the Darjeeling Lok Sabha constituency and elects one member to the Lok Sabha (Lower House) of the Indian Parliament. It elects one member in the West Bengal state legislative assembly, the Vidhan Sabha. The Indian National Congress won the parliamentary election in 2004, while the state assembly seat was won by GNLF in the 2006 polls. Darjeeling town comes under the jurisdiction of the district police (which is a part of the state police); a Deputy Superintendent of Police oversees the town's security and law affairs.[21] Darjeeling municipality area has two police stations, at Darjeeling and Jorebungalow.[22]

Natural springs provide the major part of Darjeeling's water supply – water collected from them is routed to Senchal Lake (10 km southeast of town), from where it is piped to the town. During the dry season, when water supplied by springs is insufficient, supply is pumped from the Khong Khola, a nearby small perennial creek. There is a steadily widening gap between water supply and demand; just over 50% of the town's households are connected to the municipal water supply system.[11] The town has an underground sewage system that collects the domestic waste from residences and about fifty community toilets. Waste is then conveyed to six central septic tanks and ultimately disposed of in natural jhoras (waterways); roadside drains also collect sewage and storm water. Municipal Darjeeling produces about 50 tonnes of solid waste every day. Electricity is supplied by the West Bengal State Electricity Board; the West Bengal Fire Service provides fire services for the town. The electrical supply voltage is unstable, making voltage stabilisers necessary. Almost all of the primary schools are now maintained by Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council. The total length of all types of roads — including stepped paths within the municipality — is around 90 km; these are maintained by the municipality.

Economy and transport

Main articles: Darjeeling tea and Transport in Darjeeling
A view of Darjeeling town from the Happy Valley Tea Estate

The two most significant contributors to Darjeeling's economy are tourism and the tea industry. Summer and spring seasons are the most popular with tourists, keeping many of Darjeeling's residents employed directly and indirectly. Some residents own hotels and restaurants. Many people earn a living working for tourism and transport companies and as guides. As the district headquarters, Darjeeling employes many in government offices. Darjeeling tea is regarded as the best of black teas and is widely popular,[23] especially in the UK and the countries comprising the former British Empire. The tea industry has faced stiff competition in recent years from tea produced in other parts of India as well as neighbouring countries.[24] Widespread concerns about labour disputes, worker layoffs and closing of estates have affected investment and production.[25] Several tea estates are being run on a workers' cooperative model, while others are being planned for conversion into tourist resorts.[25] More than 60% of workers in the tea gardens are women. The remuneration of workers are often half in cash and half in other benefits like accommodation, subsidised rations, free medical benefits etc.[26]

The "Toy Train" approaching Darjeeling

The district's forests and other natural wealth have been adversely affected by an ever-growing population, now around 1.3 million.[20] The years since independence have seen substantial advances in the area's education, communication and agriculture – the latter including the production of diverse cash crops like potato, cardamom, ginger, and oranges. Farming on terraced slopes is a major source of livelihood for the rural populace around the town and it supplies the town with fruits and vegetables. Small contributions to the economy come by the way of the sale of traditional arts and crafts of Sikkim and Tibet. Darjeeling is a popular filming destination for Bollywood and Bengali cinema; popular films such as Aradhana, Main Hoon Na and Satyajit Ray's Kanchenjungha have been filmed here.

The town of Darjeeling can be reached by the 80 km long Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (nicknamed the "Toy Train") from Siliguri, or by the Hill Cart Road (National Highway 55) that follows the railway line. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is a 60 cm (2 feet) narrow-gauge railway. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999, only the second railway in the world to have this honour.[5] Regular bus services and hired vehicles connect Darjeeling with Siliguri and the neighbouring towns of Kurseong, Kalimpong and Gangtok. Four wheel drives, including Land Rovers, are the most popular means of transport, as they can easily navigate the steep slopes in the region. The nearest airport is in Bagdogra near Siliguri, which is a three hour (approx. 90 km) drive from Darjeeling. Indian Airlines, Jet Airways and Air Deccan are the three major carriers that fly to Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati. The closest railway station is in New Jalpaiguri, which is connected with almost all major cities of the country. Walking, biking, two-wheelers and the use of hired taxis remain the most popular modes for travel in and across this hilly town. Communication often gets disrupted in the monsoons due to landslides.

Demographics

Main article: Demographics of Darjeeling
Colourful flags with Buddhist text around a Hindu temple. Such flags are believed to ward off evil spirits

Per the 2001 census, the Darjeeling urban agglomeration (which includes Pattabong Tea Garden), with an area of 12.77 km² has a population of 109,163, while the municipal area has a population of 107,530.[20] The town has an additional average diurnal floating population of 20,500 – 30,000, mainly comprising of the tourists.[11] The population density of the municipal area is 10,173 per km².[20] The sex ratio is 1,017 females per 1,000 males[20] – which is higher than the national average. The women make a significant contribution as earning members of households and the workforce.[27] The town houses about 31% of its population in the slums and shanty buildings – a consequence of heavy immigration.[11] The major religion is Hinduism, followed by Buddhism. Christians and Muslims form sizable minorities.[28] The population's ethnic composition is closely linked with that of Bhutan, Nepal, Sikkim and Bengal. The majority of the populace is of ethnic Nepali background, having migrated to Darjeeling in search of jobs during the British rule. Indigenous ethnic groups include the Lepchas, Bhutias, Sherpas, Rais, Yamloos, Damais, Kamais, Newars and Limbus. The other non-native communities are the Bengalis, Marwaris, Anglo-Indians, Chinese, Biharis and Tibetans. The most commonly spoken language is Nepali (Gorkhali); Hindi, Bengali and English are also used.

The town of Darjeeling has seen a growth in its population during the last century, particularly since the 1970s. Annual growth rates reached as high as 45% in the 1990s and thus is far above the national, state, and district average.[11] The colonial town of Darjeeling was designed for a mere population of 10,000, thus affected with extensive infrastructual and environmental problems. The region is relatively new in geological terms, with a host of environmental problems and hence unstable in nature.[11] Environmental degradation has adversely affected Darjeeling's appeal as a tourist destination.[18]

Culture

File:DarjeelingGorkhaRally.jpg
A political rally taking place in Darjeeling

The most popular snack in Darjeeling is the momo, a steamed dumpling containing pork, beef and vegetables cooked in a doughy wrapping and served with watery soup. Wai-Wai is a packaged snack comprising of noodles which are eaten either dry or in soup form. Churpee, a kind of hard cheese made from cow's or yak's milk is sometimes chewed. A form of noodle called thukpa, served in soup form is also popular in Darjeeling. There are a large number of restaurants which offer a wide variety of traditional Indian, continental and Chinese cuisines to cater to the tourists. Tea is the most popular beverage, procured from the famed Darjeeling tea gardens, but coffee is also consumed. Chhang is a local beer made from millet.

Owing to the diverse ethnic populace of Darjeeling, festivals are very frequent and publicly celebrated. Apart from the major religious festivals of Diwali, Christmas, Dussera, Holi etc., there are several local festivals. The Lepchas and Bhutias celebrate new year in January, while Tibetans celebrate the new year (Losar) with 'Devil Dance' in February-March. The Maghe sankranti, Ram Navami, Chotrul Duchen, Buddha Jayanti, the birthday of the Dalai Lama and Tendong Lho Rumfaat are some other festivals, some distinct to local culture and others shared with the rest of India, Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet.[28]

Colonial architecture characterizes many buildings in Darjeeling; several mock Tudor residences, Gothic churches, the Raj Bhawan (Governor House), Planters' Club and various educational institutions are examples. There are small monasteries which showcase the Buddhist pagoda style architecture. Darjeeling is regarded as a centre of music and a niche for musicians and music admirers. Singing and playing musical instruments is common among the resident population, who take pride in the traditions and role of music in cultural life.[29] Darjeeling Carnivals have been organised since 2003 and exhibit the diverse ethnic, social and religious culture of the region.[30] Western music is popular among the younger generation, and Darjeeling is a major centre of Nepali rock music. Cricket and football are the most popular sports in Darjeeling. An improvised form of ball made of rubber garters is often used for playing in the steep streets.

Some notable places to visit include the Tiger Hill, the zoo, monasteries and the tea gardens. The town attracts trekkers and sportsmen seeking to explore the Himalayas, serving as the starting point for climbing attempts on some Indian and Nepali peaks. Tenzing Norgay, one of the two men to first climb Mount Everest, spent most of his adult life in the Sherpa community in Darjeeling. His success provided the impetus to establish the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling in 1954. In the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center, Tibetan crafts like carpets, wood and leather work are displayed. Several monasteries like Ghoom Monastery (8 km from the town), Bhutia Busty monastery, Mag-Dhog Yolmowa preserve ancient Buddhist scripts.

Education and media

File:Darjeelinghillhouses.jpg
Modern houses and shanty buildings in the town

Darjeeling's schools are either run by the state government or by private and religious organisations. Schools mainly use English and Nepali as their medium of instruction, although the national language Hindi and the official state language Bengali are also stressed. The schools are either affiliated with the Indian Certificate of Secondary Education, the Central Board for Secondary Education, or the West Bengal Board of Secondary Education. Darjeeling is home to several public schools operating on the British model. A summer retreat for the British in India, Darjeeling soon became the place of choice for the establishment of public schools on the model of Eton, Harrow and Rugby, allowing the children of British officials to obtain an exclusive education.[31] Institutions such as St. Paul's School, Loreto Convent, St. Joseph's School and Mount Hermon School (the only school in the area to be modelled on the American educational system) attract students from all over India and South Asia. Many schools (some are more than a hundred years old) still adhere to the traditions from its British and colonial heritage. Darjeeling hosts three colleges — St. Joseph's College, Loreto College and Darjeeling Government College — all affiliated to University of North Bengal in Siliguri.

Darjeeling receives almost all the television channels that are received by the rest of the country. Apart from the state-owned terrestrial network Doordarshan, cable television serves most of the homes in the town, while satellite television is common in the outlying areas and in wealthier households. Besides mainstream Indian channels, the town also receives local Nepali language channels. Newspapers in Darjeeling include English language dailies, The Statesman and The Telegraph, which are printed in Siliguri, and The Hindustan Times and the Times of India which are printed in Kolkata and are received after a day's delay. In addition to these one can also find a few Nepali, Hindi and Bengali language newspapers. Internet cafés are well established in the main market area, mostly served through dialup lines. BSNL provides a limited form of broadband connectivity of up to 128 kbit/s with DIAS (Direct Internet Access System) connections. The public radio station, All India Radio is the only one that can be received in Darjeeling. The area is serviced by local cellular companies such as BSNL, Reliance Infocomm, Hutch and Airtel.

See also

Notes

  1. ^ "Eastern Himalayas DARJEELING : The Queen of Hills". Neptune Tours & Travels. Retrieved 2006-05-01.
  2. ^ a b c d "The History of Darjeeling — The Queen of Hills". Darjeelingpolice. Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  3. ^ (Kennedy 1996, p. 23)
  4. ^ "Darjeeling Tea History". Darjeelingnews. Retrieved 2006-05-02.
  5. ^ a b "Mountain Railways of India". UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  6. ^ "A Pride of Panners" (PDF Format). Baron Courts of Prestoungrange & Dolphinstoun. p. 43. Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  7. ^ (Lee 1971)
  8. ^ a b "History of Darjeeling". exploredarjeeling.com. Retrieved 2006-05-02.
  9. ^ Chattopadhyay, S.S. (2005). "Return of the queen". Frontline. 22 (01). Retrieved 2006-07-30. {{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  10. ^ Shringla, T.T. (2003). "Travelogues: Toy Train to Darjeeling". India Travelogue. Retrieved 2006-06-08.
  11. ^ a b c d e f g h Khawas, Vimal (2003). "Urban Management in Darjeeling Himalaya: A Case Study of Darjeeling Municipality". The Mountain Forum. Retrieved 2006-05-01. Now available in the Internet Archive in this URL (accessed on 7 June 2006)
  12. ^ Sahadevan, P (1999). "Ethnic Conflict in South Asia". Joan B. Kroc Institute for International Peace Studies. Columbia International Affairs Online. Retrieved 2006-07-30. {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |month= (help)
  13. ^ "GeneralInformation". zubin.com. Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  14. ^ Ray, Kalyan (2005-05-07). "Mega physics project planned in India". Deccan Herald. Retrieved 2006-05-03. {{cite news}}: Check date values in: |date= (help)
  15. ^ "Darjeeling". Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Premium Service. Retrieved 2006-07-26.
  16. ^ a b "Weatherbase entry for Darjeeling". Canty and Associates LLC. Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  17. ^ "geography". darjeelingnews.net. Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  18. ^ a b TERI (2001). "Sustainable Development in the Darjeeling Hill Area" (PDF). Tata Energy Research Institute, New Delhi. (TERI Project No.2000UT64). p. 20. Retrieved 2006-05-01.
  19. ^ "Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park". Darjeelingnews.net. Retrieved 2006-05-04.
  20. ^ a b c d e f Directorate of Census Operations, West Bengal (2003). "Table-4 Population, Decadal Growth Rate, Density and General Sex Ratio by Residence and Sex, West Bengal/ District/ Sub District, 1991 and 2001". Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  21. ^ Darjeeling Police (2004). "List of Senior Police Officers, Darjeeling Police". Retrieved 2006-05-04.
  22. ^ Directorate of Census Operations, West Bengal (2003). "Table-3 District Wise List of Statutory Towns ( Municipal Corporation, Municipality, Notified Area and Cantonment Board) , Census Towns and Outgrowths, West Bengal, 2001". Retrieved 2006-04-30.
  23. ^ "Champagne among teas". Deccan Herald. The Printers (Mysore) Private Ltd. 17 June 2005. Retrieved 2006-07-18.
  24. ^ "Darjeeling tea growers at risk". BBC News. 27 July 2001. Retrieved 2006-05-08.
  25. ^ a b Haber, Daniel B (14 January 2004). "Economy-India: Famed Darjeeling Tea Growers Eye Tourism for Survival". Inter Press Service News Agency. Retrieved 2006-05-08.
  26. ^ "Darjeeling Tea Facts". Darjeelingmews.net. Retrieved 2006-05-08.
  27. ^ Gurung J.D. "Mountain Women of the Hindu Kush-Himalayas: The Hidden Perspective". International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development. Retrieved 2006-05-06.
  28. ^ a b "Darjeeling Festivals". darjeelingnews.net. Retrieved 2006-05-01.
  29. ^ Rasaily DP, Lama RP. "The Nature-centric Culture of the Nepalese". The Cultural Dimension of Ecology. Indira Gandhi National Centre for the Arts, New Delhi. Retrieved 2006-07-31. {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |month= (help)
  30. ^ Chattopadhyay, S.S. (2003). "The spirit of Darjeeling". Frontline. 20 (25). Retrieved 2006-05-01. {{cite journal}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  31. ^ Lal, Vinay. ""Hill Stations: Pinnacles of the Raj." Review article on Dale Kennedy, The Magic Mountains : Hill Stations and the British Raj". UCLA Social Sciences Computing. Retrieved 2001-07-30. {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |month= (help)

References

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