Seoul

Template:Infobox Korean city

Seoul (Sŏul|서울) listen^ⓘ) is the capital and largest city of South Korea (Republic of Korea). The city's name derives from the ancient Korean word Seorabeol or Seobeol, meaning "capital city". The city has been known in the past by the successive names Wiryeseong (Baekje), Hanyang (Goryeo), and Hanseong (Joseon). The city served as the capital during the Baekje and Joseon Dynasties. Upon the establishment of the Republic of Korea in 1948, Seoul became the capital once again and was designated the nation's only Special City.

With over ten million people living within its city limits, Seoul is one of the most populous cities in the world. However, with an area of only 607 square kilometres, it is also one of the smallest and most densely populated major cities. Seoul's population density has allowed it to become one of the world's most digitally-connected cities. It also has more than three million registered vehicles which often cause widespread traffic jams.

The larger Seoul National Capital Area and commuter belt, which includes the major port city of Incheon, has over twenty-three million residents. This makes it the third most populous metropolitan area in the world, after Greater Tokyo and Mexico City. About one-half of South Korea's entire population live in Seoul and its environs. The city is the country's political, cultural, social, and economic center, as well as an international center for many financial and business organizations, and is considered one of the top 20 "world-class cities".

As the symbol of the Miracle on the Han River, Seoul has played a key role in South Korea's economic development. In recent years, the metropolitan government has carried out an extensive cleanup of the city's air and water pollution. The revival of Cheonggyecheon, a stream that used to flow through downtown Seoul, has been lauded as a major success in urban renewal and beautification.

Seoul is located in the northwest of South Korea on the Han River, only about 30 miles (~45 km) from the de-militarized zone (DMZ) border shared with North Korea.

Hanja transcription of "Seoul"

File:Seoul Chinese name advertisement.jpg

Advertisement in a subway station announcing the newly achieved name change of the South Korean capital in Chinese in 2005.

Unlike most place names in Korea, "Seoul" has no corresponding hanja (Chinese characters used in the Korean language), and Chinese-speaking countries have continued to refer to the city by its former name "Hànchéng" (Traditional: 漢城; Simplified: 汉城; Korean: "Hanseong"). In January 2005, the Seoul Metropolitan Government requested that the Chinese name of the city be changed to "Shǒu'ěr" (首爾/首尔; Korean: "Su-i"). This is a close transliteration of Seoul in Mandarin Chinese, where 首 (shǒu) can also mean "first" or "capital". Chinese communities have gradually adopted this new name. This change was intended for speakers of Chinese only and has no effect on the Korean language name, and unlike standard hanja, the Chinese characters were chosen to best represent the Korean pronunciation of a pure Korean word.

History

Founding

It is believed that humans were living in the area that is now Seoul along the lower reaches of the Han River during the Paleolithic Age and archaeological research shows that people began to lead settled lives starting in the Neolithic Age. Prehistoric remains unearthed in Amsa-dong (village), Gangdong-gu (district) date back to about 3,000 to 7,000 years ago. With the introduction of bronze ware from about 700 BC, settlements gradually began to spread from the river basin toward inland areas.

Seoul is first recorded as Wiryeseong, founded in 18 BC as the capital of Baekje, which developed from a member state of the Mahan confederacy into one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. There are several city wall remains in the area dating from this time. And Pungnap Toseong, an earthen wall just outside Seoul, is widely believed to be the main Wiryeseong site.

Growth

As the Three Kingdoms competed for this strategic region of the Korean Peninsula, control passed from Baekje to Goguryeo in 392 (then called "South Pyongyang"^{[citation needed]}), and from Goguryeo to the Silla-Baekje alliance in 551.

Silla soon gained full control of the city and then the peninsula, and during the Unified Silla period, Hanyang (漢陽) first referred to a district in the city, and later the city itself.

In the 11th century, Goryeo, which succeeded Unified Silla, built a palace in the city and referred to it as Namgyeong or "Southern Capital". Seoul grew into a full-scale city with political significance during this time.

Early Joseon dynasty

During the Joseon Dynasty, beginning in 1394, Seoul was called Hanseong (漢城, "Fortress city [on] the Han [River]"). Originally, the city was entirely surrounded by a massive circular wall (a 20-foot-high circular stone fortress) to provide its citizens with security from threats such as wild animals (tigers in particular), bandits, and invasion.

Although the wall no longer stands (except in the mountains in the northern part of the city), the gates remain. They are located in the downtown area of modern-day Seoul, including most notably Sungnyemun (commonly known as Namdaemun or "South Gate") and Honginjimun (commonly known as Dongdaemun or "East Gate"). During the Joseon Dynasty, the gates were opened and closed each day accompanied by the ringing of large bells.

Modernization

In the late 19th century, after hundreds of years of isolation, Seoul opened its gates to foreigners and began to modernize. Seoul became the first city in East Asia to have electricity, trolley cars, water, telephone, and telegraph systems all at the same time. Much of this was due to trade with the United States. For example, the Seoul Electric Company, Seoul Electric Trolley Company, and Seoul Fresh Spring Water Company were all American-owned enterprises. In 1904, an American by the name of Angus Hamilton visited the city and said, "The streets of Seoul are magnificent, spacious, clean, admirably made and well-drained. The narrow, dirty lanes have been widened, gutters have been covered, roadways broadened. Seoul is within measurable distance of becoming the highest, most interesting and cleanest city in the East.”

This modernization came too late, however, as Japan soon overtook Korea, making Seoul its colonial capital. While under Japanese occupation (1910-1945), the city was called Gyeongseong (Japanese: Keijō). The Japanese General Government Building (torn down in 1995) served as the seat of the Japanese colonial government. After World War II and Korea's liberation, the city took its present name of Seoul. When the Republic of Korea (South Korea) was declared, the new state adopted the city as its capital.

In 1950, the Korean War broke out and Seoul changed hands between the Chinese-backed North Korean forces and the UN-backed South Korean forces several times, leaving the city heavily damaged at the end of the war. One estimate of the extensive damage states that at least 191,000 buildings, 55,000 houses, and 1,000 factories lay in ruins. In addition, there were a flood of refugees from the North, swelling the city's population to an estimated 2.5 million persons. More than half of them were homeless.

With the help of U.S. aid, Seoul became the focus of an immense reconstruction and modernization effort. Rapid economic growth achieved during the industrialization of the 1960s and 1970s raised living standards of residents considerably. High-rise office buildings and apartments began sprouting throughout the city during the construction boom of the 1980s. Pollution and traffic jams became major issues as urbanization in the country accelerated and more and more people began moving to Seoul and its surrounding areas. Despite a green belt established around the city to prevent urban sprawl, the Seoul metropolitan area soon became the third largest in the world in terms of population and one of its most crowded.

Recent developments

During the 1990s, the city began to attract many workers from other countries, changing demographics. Previously, nearly all of Seoul's residents were Korean, with the exception of a small Chinese minority. Today, there are an estimated 200,000 foreign nationals living in Seoul. These include laborers from Bangladesh, China, India, Indonesia, Mongolia, Nigeria, Pakistan, the Philippines, Uzbekistan, and Vietnam.

In addition, there are many language instructors from English-speaking countries such as Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, United States, and the U.K. As a major business and financial center, Seoul also has many executives and analysts from North America, Europe, and Japan. Seoul ranks seventh in the world in terms of the number of Fortune 500 transnational companies headquartered there ^[1]. It is also the world's second most expensive city, ahead of Tokyo and Hong Kong (ranked 3rd and 4th, respectively) ^[2].

Relocation of the capital

On August 11, 2004, President Roh Moo-hyun's administration announced plans to move the capital to the Gongju area, approximately 120 kilometers south of Seoul, to ease the population pressure on Seoul and to get the government to a safer distance from North Korea ^[3]. Although part of Roh's election manifesto, this plan ignited nationwide controversy. On October 21, 2004, the Constitutional Court ruled that the special law relocating the capital was unconstitutional. The administration later announced plans to move almost all national government functions, except the Executive Branch, to Gongju, but no additional details have been announced.

Geography

The traditional heart of Seoul is the old Joseon Dynasty city, which is now the downtown area, where most palaces, government offices, corporate headquarters, hotels, and traditional markets are located. This area occupies the valley of Cheonggyecheon, a stream that runs from west to east through the valley before emptying into the Han River. For many years, the stream had been covered by concrete, but was recently restored through an urban revival project. To the north of downtown is Bukhan Mountain, and to the south is the smaller Namsan.

Further south are the old suburbs of Yongsan-gu and Mapo-gu, and the Han River. Across the Han River are the newer and wealthier areas of Gangnam-gu and surrounding neighborhoods. The World Trade Center of Korea is located in Gangnam-gu and this is where many expositions and conferences are held. Also in Gangnam-gu is the COEX Mall, a large indoor shopping and entertainment complex. Yeouido is an island in the middle of the Han River, downstream from Gangnam-gu, and is home to the National Assembly, major broadcasting studios, and a number of large office buildings, as well as the Korea Finance Building and the world's largest Pentecostal church. The Olympic Stadium, Olympic Park, and Lotte World are located in Songpa-gu, on the south side of the Han River, upstream from Gangnam-gu. South of the sprawling Gangnam area are Namhan Mountain and Gwanak Mountain.

Major buildings include the Korea Finance Building, Namsan Tower, the World Trade Center, the six-skyscraper residence Tower Palace, and I-Park Apartments. These and various high-rise office buildings, like the Seoul Star Tower and Jongro Tower, dominate city's skyline. Seoul has the greatest number of skyscrapers in Asia. Seoul is now planning on building a 580-metre business center in Sangam Digital Media City district and planning on an 800-metre Lotte World 2 Tower in Jamshil district.

Urban and civil planning was a key concept when Seoul was first designed to serve as a capital in the 14th century. The Royal Palaces of the Joseon Dynasty still remain in Seoul, with the main palace (Gyeongbokgung) currently being restored to its original form. Today, there are nine major subway lines stretching for more than 250 kilometers, with a tenth line being planned.

The most historically significant in Seoul is Jongno, meaning "Bell Street". The bell signaled the different times of the day and therefore controlled the four gates to the city. It is still intact in its original form, and hit ceremonially at 0:00 every New Year's Day. Seoul's most important streetcar line ran along Jongno until it was replaced by Line 1 of the Seoul subway system in the early 1970s. Other notable streets in downtown Seoul include Euljiro (을지로), Sejongno, Chungmuro (충무로), Yulgongno (율곡로), and Toegyero (퇴계로).

Administration

Seoul is divided into 25 gu ("districts"), which are sub-divided into 522 dong, which are sub-divided into 13,787 tong, which are further divided into 102,796 ban in total.

Dobong-gu (도봉구)
Dongdaemun-gu (동대문구; 東大門區)
Dongjak-gu (동작구; 銅雀區)
Eunpyeong-gu (은평구; 恩平區)
Gangbuk-gu (강북구; 江北區)
Gangdong-gu (강동구; 江東區)
Gangnam-gu (강남구; 江南區)
Gangseo-gu (강서구; 江西區)
Geumcheon-gu (금천구; 衿川區)
Guro-gu (구로구; 九老區)
Gwanak-gu (관악구; 冠岳區)
Gwangjin-gu (광진구; 廣津區)
Jongno-gu (종로구; 鍾路區)
Jung-gu (중구; 中區)
Jungnang-gu (중랑구; 中浪區)
Mapo-gu (마포구; 麻浦區)
Nowon-gu (노원구; 蘆原區)
Seocho-gu (서초구; 瑞草區)
Seodaemun-gu (서대문구; 西大門區)
Seongbuk-gu (성북구; 城北區)
Seongdong-gu (성동구; 城東區)
Songpa-gu (송파구; 松坡區)
Yangcheon-gu (양천구; 陽川區)
Yeongdeungpo-gu (영등포구; 永登浦區)
Yongsan-gu (용산구; 龍山區)

Demographics

Nearly all of Seoul's residents are Korean, with some small Chinese and Japanese minorities. Today, there are an estimated more than 200,000 foreign nationals living in Seoul. These include people from South Asia, Southeast Asia, Central Asia, and parts of Africa. In addition, there are many language instructors from English-speaking countries such as the Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, United States, and the United Kingdom. In Seoul 49% follow Christianity, 47% follow Buddhism, and 4% follow other religions. ^{[citation needed]}

Economy

With a GDP of over $600 billion, South Korea ranks as the sixteenth highest GDP in the world (CIA Factbook 2005). GDP is a good indication of wealth and status of a country, so this indicates that South Korea is a thriving nation and is no longer a third world nation. The reason for this is South Korea’s ability to keep pace with the ICT, Information, Communication, and Technology, race and stay in the service sector rather than the manufacturing sector. Before emphasis was placed on information and technology, the road to development for third world nations was thought to lie in manufacturing. Jobs would be supplied from manufacturing goods to be used predominantly in the developed world. The sale of the goods as exports, along with the creation of the manufacturing jobs, was thought sufficient to bring development to struggling nations; however, with the shift of manufacturing jobs going to poorer nations, the service sector, which provides higher wage jobs, remained in the wealthier nations. It is now believed that in order for a country to develop, it must create more service jobs (Sassen 1994), which Seoul and South Korea have done with much success. As headquarters for some of the world’s top corporations such as Samsung, Hyundai, and Kia Motors (Nation Master), the service sector in Seoul has thrived, bringing development and a healthy economy to the country as a whole. South Korea derives 63.2% of its GDP from the service sector, which is above the average for the upper income nations (World Bank 2004). The major exports are electronics, automobiles, and machinery (Info Please 2005). This economic development has also helped keep unemployment low at around 3.4% and ensured that the informal economy of Seoul is negligible. Foreign direct investment is also high at around $2 billion (World Bank 2004); however, South Korea is threatened with a slowing economy which could hurt it and its development. Compared to years past, South Korea is facing a slowing economy. As one of the Four Tiger nations, it experienced rapid growth in the 1990s. Now, economic growth has declined from close to 10% to 3.1% (CIA Factbook 2005). While this is still a steady and respectable growth rate, foreign direct investment is also down by 75% from 1999 to 2002 (World Bank 2004). Consumer consumption is down and expected to stay low in 2005, contributing to the slowing economy. This could also mean that recovery and another economic boom could be far off (EIU ViewsWire 2005). This means that the economy could become stagnant and leave South Korea and Seoul lagging in development. If consumer consumption and corporate investment were to increase, the economy could stabilize and get out of the recession (Lee 2003). Seoul and South Korea have a thriving economy that helps to make South Korea a major player in the world economy. As the center of the service sector for South Korea, Seoul is the hub around which the economic growth and health of the country reside in order to ensure the continuing growth of the nation. While past developments helped the nation to grow rapidly, the current economic outlook brings questions as to the sustainability of the continuing economic development.

Transportation

Seoul's transportation boom dates back to the era of the Korean Empire, when the first streetcar lines were laid and a railroad linking Seoul and Shinuiju was completed. Ever since then, Seoul's transportation has greatly diversified, allowing it to become one of the greatest transportation hubs in Asia.

Subway

Seoul Subway Map

Seoul has nine subway lines, nearly two hundred bus routes and six major highways that interlink every district of the city with one another and with the surrounding area. The majority of the population now uses the public transportation system due to its convenience and low cost. In addition, in order to cope with all of these transportation modes, Seoul's metropolitan government employs several mathematicians to coordinate the subway, bus, and traffic schedules into one timetable.

Train

Seoul is also linked to several other major South Korean cities by the KTX bullet train, one of Asia's fastest high-speed trains, making commuting between cities extremely convenient for commuters and domestic tourists.

File:Incheon International Airport-2.jpg

Incheon International Airport

Airports

There are two airports that serve Seoul. Gimpo International Airport, formerly in Gimpo but now annexed to Seoul, was the only airport for Seoul from its original construction during the Korean War. Multiple airports were built in and around Seoul immediately before, during, and after the war. The most famous was on Yoido; that airport is long gone, but it once served as the country’s gateway to the world.

Upon opening in March, 2001, Incheon International Airport on Yeongjong island near Incheon has changed the role of Gimpo Airport significantly. Incheon is now responsible for almost all international flights, while Gimpo serves only domestic flights (with the exception of flights to Haneda Airport in Tokyo). This has led to a significant drop in flights from Gimpo Airport. Meanwhile, Incheon International Airport has become, along with Hong Kong and Singapore, a major transportation centre for East Asia. It was recently voted by the IATA as the world's best airport in service and quality. The two airports are linked to Seoul by a highway, and Gimpo is also linked by subway.

(See also Seoul Buses)

Recreation and sports

Due to the efforts of the government in regard with the environment, Seoul's air pollution levels are now on par with those of Tokyo and far lower than those of Beijing. Seoul's metropolitan area accommodates six major parks, including Seoul Forest, which opened in mid-2005. The Seoul Metropolitan Area is also surrounded by a green belt aimed to prevent the city from sprawling out over the neighboring Gyeonggi Province. These lush green areas are frequently sought after by people resting on the weekend and during vacations.

In addition, the Seoul area is also home to three amusement parks: Lotte World, Seoul Land, and Everland (located in the nearby suburb of Yongin). Of these, Lotte World is the most frequently visited. Other recreation centres include the former Olympic and World Cup stadium, the Korea Finance Building, and the City Hall's public lawn.

Seoul hosted the 1988 Olympic Games and also served as one of the host cities of the 2002 Football World Cup.

The city is the home of two baseball teams in the KBO: the Doosan Bears and the LG Twins

Sites of interest

The Joseon Dynasty built "Five Grand Palaces" in Seoul:

Changdeokgung (창덕궁; 昌德宮)
Changgyeonggung (창경궁; 昌慶宮)
Deoksugung (덕수궁; 德壽宮)
Gyeongbokgung (경복궁; 景福宮)
Gyeonghuigung (경희궁; 慶熙宮)

There is also a minor palace:

Unhyeongung (운현궁; 雲峴宮)

Temples and shrines:

Museums and galleries:

Outside the metropolitan area:

Education

See: Education in South Korea

There are a large number of universities in Seoul. Most of the country's most prestigious universities are located in Seoul, including the so-called "SKY" schools Seoul National University, Korea University, and Yonsei University.

Other universities in the city include:

Sister cities

Seoul has many sister cities. Washington, D.C. is the latest to become a sister city of Seoul.^[4] The year each relationship was formed is shown in parentheses below.